45m, 2 pitches.
Requires a non-provocative approach and a double set of cams. An intense adventure up the central black stripe with good climbing but spaced protection and variable rock.
1. 5b 12m. Start as for Lick From A Tigers Tongue or on a rock left of the blowhole, depending on swell. Gain the smooth wall at the black/orange boundary, where fine bold climbing leads to a good foot ledge and large cams above. Belay here or on the ledge just right to prevent rope-drag.
2. 5b 33m. Continue up the orange/black boundary to the overlap and traverse right beneath this on quartz rails. Pull over leftwards (medium cams) onto a block. Step left to avoid dubious blocks then climb boldly to the final slim quartz groove (tiny cam on left). Finish delicately up this.
1. 5b 12m. Start as for Lick From A Tigers Tongue or on a rock left of the blowhole, depending on swell. Gain the smooth wall at the black/orange boundary, where fine bold climbing leads to a good foot ledge and large cams above. Belay here or on the ledge just right to prevent rope-drag.
2. 5b 33m. Continue up the orange/black boundary to the overlap and traverse right beneath this on quartz rails. Pull over leftwards (medium cams) onto a block. Step left to avoid dubious blocks then climb boldly to the final slim quartz groove (tiny cam on left). Finish delicately up this.
Matthew Thompson (partial abseil cleaning of top 1/3). Steve Perry. 02/May/2014.
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Route of Interest
Heathen's Door
Grade: E3 6a ***
(Neave Island)