Raged when ropes got caught trying to absiel into ramp, had to walk back up and round. Eventually got on route. I led second pitch. Both 4c pitches are almost entirely protected by shit pegs. Most of which I could bend by hand! Easy climbing though. Just don't fall off. Also, death block still there on second pitch
Kemics - AltLd O/S - 21/May/15 with Mel
jon_ridley - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/15 with Gavin Oliver
Martin1973 - AltLd - 21/Apr/15 with Huw Gilbert
tp45597 - AltLd - 18/Apr/15 with matt the goat
hutchay - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/15 with Fliss
Hidden - AltLd - 09/Apr/15
AngelaC - 2nd - 09/Apr/15 with Rick Sewards, Jeremy
Hidden - AltLd rpt - 08/Feb/15
danmullett - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/14
Bit loose in place, but great fun.
joedoherty - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/14 with Matt Prince
Led 2nd pitch VS 4c
mattprince - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/14 with Joe Doherty
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Jul/14
tskelhon - 2nd O/S - 21/Jun/14 with Charlotte, chris davis
clmacdonald - Lead - 21/Jun/14 with tskelhon
tobydunford - AltLd O/S - 26/Apr/14 with Kirsty Kerr, Harry Martin
Hidden - Solo O/S - 09/Apr/14
jonbwoy - 2014
Cheese Monkey - Lead O/S - 14/Dec/13 with Neil, Vienna, Ian M
Ian Miller - 2nd O/S - 14/Dec/13 with Neil Morbey, Vienna, Ben Darby
kenneM - AltLd - 10/Dec/13
steve_gibbs - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/13 with George Frisby
sheelba - AltLd - 10/Sep/13
will moy - AltLd O/S - 13/Jan/13
Hidden - AltLd - 11/Jan/13
jcw - 2013
Eike - 2nd - 18/Nov/12 with Tom Blight
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Sep/12
Hidden - AltLd rpt - 06/Sep/12
Slick - AltLd - 20/Aug/12 with Kevin Vans-Colina
katherinesydney - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/12 with mike kann
Kyle87 - Lead O/S - Aug/12
Lead pitch 2. not to dificult but very exposed with poor gear and big run outs. p3 was straightforward and enjoyable on second.
Webster - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/12
steve-grigg - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/12 with David Webster
zcsharp - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/12 with James S
James S - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/12 with jamie
George Frisby - 2nd O/S - 24/Jun/12 with Chris
What a beast! Sustained, steep, rusty pegs, and a dubious belay. The topout is one of the best in the gorge though.
stafford101 - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/12 with George Frisby
Top route! exciting positions for the grade. Topping out 10 meters from the ice cream van is a bonus!
Poco Loco - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/12 with Lucy
lucyh - 2nd - 09/Jun/12 with James Pomeroy
One of the more hilarious climbing experiences to date what with Jason dropping his mums pink £70 camera that he was borrowing down a gully.
Quarryboy - AltLd rpt - 26/May/12 with Jason and friends
Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/May/12
Kylie P1, me P2&3
P2 definitely good value for the grade! P2 belay possibly scarier than the climb itself being composed as it is of a horror show of dying pegs in slightly the wrong direction backed up with one small directional offset. Good climb though; memorable... Upon checking the Rockfax guide they recommend belaying a few metres below the roof - this would have been much more sensible!
mullermn - AltLd O/S - 25/May/12 with Kylie Richards
Second pitch, a joy.
pffft - AltLd rpt - 19/May/12
Lovely.I lead P1&2 together. Thought it was quite tricky in places.
Monk - AltLd O/S - 19/May/12 with Luke Vincent
TDembrey - Lead rpt - 13/May/12 with Peter
pheotleyr - 2nd β - 13/May/12 with Todd
Hidden - AltLd - 30/Mar/12
Izzy led P2
Slick - AltLd - 30/Mar/12 with Isabel Evans
Jack_F - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/12 with Cameron
Pitch 3 instead this time round. Good route but was not very psyched this morning.
Stanners - AltLd rpt - 18/Mar/12 with James Rich, Jack Bradbrook
Big and intimidating as ever
Quarryboy - AltLd rpt - 18/Mar/12 with James Rich, Rob Stanfield
It was really cold and I couldn't feel my fingers on pitch 2 and 3 which made it a bit tricky. I led the first, easy, pitch.
JamesRich - AltLd O/S - 18/Mar/12 with Rob stanfield, Jack Bradbrook
Dean177 - Lead O/S - 02/Mar/12 with Will Twigger
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Feb/12
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Feb/12
will909 - 2nd β - Feb/12
Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 28/Jan/12 with Graeme
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Jan/12
georgeevans88 - Lead O/S - 28/Jan/12 with James N
jamesn89 - 2nd O/S - 28/Jan/12 with george e
David Qualtrough - 2012
David Qualtrough - 2012
abtibbs - AltLd O/S - 2012 with Jack Verber
HarryB - Lead rpt - 07/Dec/11 with Katherine Ross
Refreshing to climb in the gorge with so little polish! Nice climbing on P2 & 3, though I thought I was going to come off at 2 points on P2.
Katherine Ross - 2nd O/S - 07/Dec/11 with Harry Bloxham
georgeevans88 - AltLd O/S - 27/Nov/11 with Alex P
Great route! Very little polosh considering the grade. Scrambled P1, led P3.
aipattison - AltLd O/S - 27/Nov/11 with George Evans
Some steep sections but the holds are all there.
maresia - AltLd O/S - 13/Nov/11 with Mike Kann
Think the gentleman above conned me into the HVS 4c variation, though not sure. What ever it was, it was bold for VS 4c. Love going under the overhang though :-)
pffft - Lead O/S - 13/Nov/11 with Jojo Mills
dan ely - AltLd O/S - 23/Oct/11 with jon (ukc reading)
Scrambled up pitch 1, seconded pitch 2, lead pitch 3, amazing little climb, thats a lot less tafficed than the sea wall around the corner!
Kate Edhouse - AltLd O/S - 18/Oct/11 with tom
Gary S - AltLd O/S - 15/Oct/11 with Tom Moat
Hidden - 2nd - 28/Sep/11
Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/11
standard Vs climbing. top pitch is definitely easier but has a nice sequence of exposed moves
benkelsey - AltLd O/S - 02/Sep/11 with Alex Randall
arandall - Lead β - Sep/11 with Hebe Knowles
arandall - AltLd rpt - Sep/11 with Ben Kelsey
Decent and exposed VS with a slightly tricky crux around the double bolts along P2. The whole second pitch feels pretty exposed right up to the belay under the roof (easier belay station than the option of the double bolts). The final pitch traverse and rock over up and out between the overhang is a nice but short sequence of moves.
ashley_sandeman - AltLd β - 19/Aug/11 with kingrollo
Clean onsight lead of P1 & P2, though in the heat almost stacked it when my left hand slipped! Backed off from the belay under the roof as second felt too exposed. Not an easy retreat.
Dave Ing - Lead dnf - 26/Jul/11 with Bridgette
Great 2nd pitch and surprised myself with the crux. Felt too intimidated by the stance of the belay to complete the climb.
BB1 - 2nd - 26/Jul/11 with Dave Ing
Easy climbing but the position and the situations on it make it feel very serious and intimidating for the grade.
Quarryboy - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/11 with Rob Stanfield
2nd pitch. Fantastic route, but worryingly hollow sounding flake you have to pull on half way up. Difficult last pitch with a fairly heavy backpack on. Dyno version next time!
Stanners - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/11 with Jack Bradbrook
Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/11
Clay C - AltLd rpt - 19/Jun/11 with Harry K
Nice climb, but very very loose rock..ice cream and beautiful view on the top~
karenhh - AltLd - 19/Jun/11 with Tom Brierley
Nice climb, especially with the thought of ice-cream at the top :D
Be very careful of loose rock on this climb, when we climbed it i came across a large chunk of rock half way up the middle pitch that was loose but heavy enough not to come off when pulled on... i could actually lift it slightly to remove gear.
Tom Brierley Gore - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/11 with Shijing Hu
Led P1 & 3
andy dunn - AltLd rpt - 14/Jun/11 with Big Ben
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/May/11
done in 2 pitches, I lead to start of groove under roof, will finished
scorpia97 - AltLd rpt - 27/May/11 with Will Attridge
Led P2. Was high in VS, got very exposed very quickly. well worth its 2 stars
stvredmond - AltLd - 21/May/11 with Sean mercer
Hidden - AltLd - 21/May/11
Hidden - Lead - 14/May/11
Led P1 and 3, found the traverse under the roof harder then pulling through but overall the route wasnt a difficult as I expected
HarryB - AltLd O/S - 04/May/11 with Al
Phil PBC - AltLd O/S - May/11 with henry castle
richtea21 - AltLd - May/11 with S.Pelly
Pitch's 1 and 3, my second finished the 2nd pitch in the wrong place so most of the 3rd pitch was missed.
arandall - AltLd dog - 25/Apr/11 with Isaac Whitcombe
Slick - Lead - 19/Apr/11 with David Q
Slick - AltLd - 18/Apr/11 with Kevin Vans-Colina
RedFox - AltLd O/S - 17/Apr/11 with Tom K
crossdressingrodney - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/11 with john h
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Apr/11
2nd pitch -trickier than I remember from 40 years ago! Beautiful sunny afternoon.
Rob Exile Ward - Lead - 19/Mar/11 with Sam Ward
Lead P2, Sophie lead P1 and P3
Greg Pittam - AltLd O/S - 19/Mar/11 with Sophie Keltie
Led all pitches - Really enjoyed the pull out onto the arete on the 2nd pitch along with the start of the 3rd.
andy dunn - Lead O/S - 05/Mar/11 with J, Alan
Hidden - Solo rpt - Mar/11
Hidden - Lead dnf - 17/Jan/11
31770 - 2011
Johnny Baker - 2011 with Derek Toulalan, Dave Webster
kelliroberts3 - Lead O/S - Nov/10 with Toby Stead
Kevster - Lead O/S - 24/Oct/10
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Sep/10
Stone Muppet - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/10 with ah
Scrambled P1, Lead P2 and Clay on P3. Little dissapointed with the length of P3 but good climb.
TDembrey - 2nd O/S - 09/Sep/10 with Clay
We scrambled up to the first belay, Todd led 2nd pitch and I led 3rd.
Clay C - AltLd O/S - 09/Sep/10 with Todd
Pete Rigby - AltLd O/S - Sep/10
awesome route,not been that scared for a while and a 99 at the top haha!
brew_guru - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/10 with super gav
Sitting on the belay after p2 is wicked (good route too!).
thomasadixon - 2nd rpt - 09/Jul/10 with Becca
v good - really cool stance at end on p2!!!
BeccaSnowden - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/10 with Tom
django - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/10 with John Rowe
zach.stone - 2nd β - 22/Jun/10 with Jon Hauser
Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/10
Gibbo - 2nd - 03/Jun/10 with Ollie Keynes
localboy - 2nd dog - 18/May/10 with Simon C
Great route, pretty exposed! Led 2nd pitch
wildrover220 - AltLd O/S - 10/May/10 with Ali Dixon
P1 + 3. P1 was crap, very vegetated, but the rest was ace.
sweenyt - AltLd O/S - 05/May/10 with Cate
Henry lead pitch 1 and 3 (pitch 1 really needs clearing, is covered in brambles), I lead pitch 2 - got very scared, but felt so good when I did it!
catemuir - AltLd - 05/May/10 with Henry Todd
Jessie Rushbrooke - Lead O/S - 04/May/10 with GF
georgeevans88 - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/10 with Hannah
Great VS! Scrambled P1, Led P2 and P3. P1 is a bit vegetated but very easy, P2 is quite long with a couple of bold moments (long run between gear and rusty pegs). There is a big dodgy looking block on P2 but not loose yet. P3 is very atmospheric but found it easier technically. definitely 2 stars! Finished at 8:30 ice cream van was gone, dam!
Fred_Richard - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/10 with Karl Carter
Albino - 2nd - 27/Apr/10 with Fred Richard
Chris lead P1 and P2 as single pitch; led P3
simonf - AltLd O/S - 27/Apr/10 with Jane, Chris
1 just a scramble, Led 2, Dave led 3. Nice one, one really tricky move on each of 2nd and 3rd pitches though 2nd pitch easy enough when worked out. Good sticky rock apart from one foot hold on 3!
PaulWatson - AltLd O/S - 20/Apr/10 with Dave P
Tomar - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/10 with "Brosky"
tommytuffa - AltLd - 04/Mar/10 with chris s
Climbed in an improvised harness made out of slings after forgetting to pack my harness!
Chris P2 Tom P3 (P1 is a scramble)
Chris Sansum - AltLd rpt - 04/Mar/10 with Tom
Fred_Richard - Lead - 2010
jase burnard - Lead - 25/Oct/09
good climb, got in a bit tangle on the second pitch crux as i decided not to remove the pegged protection before moving round... :/
suffolknick - 2nd O/S - 27/Sep/09 with Paul
harder than before...
evhall - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/09 with Fletch
Chris/Gary - solo P1, Gary P2, Chris P3
Chris Sansum - AltLd rpt - 13/Sep/09 with Gary Lewin
Atmospheric and excellent. Not particularly bold contrary to what the guide says.
Tom Last - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/09 with Clive
Hidden - Lead - 22/Aug/09
Quirina - 2nd O/S - 22/Aug/09 with Neil Larsen
Ben led first pitch. Footwork on second pitch traverse is crucial, especially since the three belay pegs are rusty *yikes*.
ruaidh - AltLd O/S - 16/Aug/09 with Ben
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/09
easy - finally lead top pitch too
evhall - Lead rpt - 13/Jun/09 with J + Mike
V. vegetated at the bottom, but soon broke out onto decent rock. Gear was pretty sparse - relying on dodgy old pegs for the most part, wished I'd taken tricams! Felt reasonably steep and sustained. Last pitch easier. Should have used the alternative belay on the big ledge-would have saved a lot of faff....
Ewan Richards - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/09 with LizD
lizannday - 2nd - 10/Jun/09 with Ewan Richards
Hidden - AltLd rpt - 01/Jun/09
Rpt..ice cream van was still there at 9pm.
Feeling bold - 2nd rpt - 01/Jun/09 with Neil, Cheddar John
Dr Caterpillar - AltLd O/S - 11/May/09 with Calum
deklan - AltLd - 07/May/09 with luke
luke13 - AltLd - May/09 with Dec
Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/09
jh5638 - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/09 with Doug Hamilton
Hidden - AltLd rpt - 21/Mar/09
Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/09
Hidden - 2nd rpt - 19/Mar/09
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Jan/09
P2 detour on HVS 4c.
scorpia97 - 2nd O/S - 07/Jan/09 with Caspian
Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Jan/09
came *very* close to taking whipper after my foot slipped which certainly added to the 'atmosphere' :)
MagnusL - AltLd O/S - 02/Jan/09 with My mate Paul
Kenemo - 2009
CarolineH - 2nd O/S - 12/Nov/08 with Joe
Hidden - Lead rpt - 03/Oct/08
John Dale - AltLd - 05/Jul/08 with Dave Wagg
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Jun/08
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Jun/08
Hidden - 2nd - 06/Jun/08
georgeevans88 - Lead O/S - 13/May/08 with Emily K
georgeevans88 - Lead O/S - 01/May/08 with Harry H
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Apr/08
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Apr/08
Alan linked first three pitches. Quite exposed at times and with a few "interestingly polished" holds.
dzlhodgson - 2nd O/S - 25/Apr/08 with Alan Sage
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Apr/08
Marti999 - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/08 with Mark Glaister
Marti999 - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/08 with Mark Glaister
Al Franks - AltLd rpt - 17/Feb/08 with Andy Hayes
Lead 3rd pitch
Alasdair88 - AltLd rpt - 17/Feb/08 with Andy Hayes
Hidden - Lead rpt - 13/Feb/08
georgeevans88 - Lead O/S - Feb/08 with Al
Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Jan/08
catemuir - 2nd - Jan/08 with Harry Allan
daveagriff - 2nd - 2008
Hidden - Lead - 2008
First pitch 'a bit green'; I'd suggest a sit-on lawn mower rather than secateurs; leaves the rock shoes nice and greasy for pitch 2, which used to be two pitches before the second belay stance collapsed, (my 1990s guidebook is out of date). Worryingly loose chunks of rock at head height came off when touched (the orange stuff on the left). Some interesting and varied moves made this climb a real pleasure. The final pitch has a delicately balanced traverse 6 - 8 ft followed by a pull-through described by the book as 'surprisingly difficult', but in fact protected by two very solid pegs and served by more than adequate hand holds. Above this move the finish was easy, the only complication being the impossibility of verbal communication with the climbing partner. Radios are always a good idea at Avon. Emerging right next to the van rewards the climber with the combined smells of ice-cream and diesel fumes along with a crowd of interested pedestrians. Take an old krab to give to a fascinated small child and inspire the next generation.
Humpty Dangler - AltLd O/S - 14/Oct/07 with Jordan Lane
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Oct/07
CarolineH - 2nd - 07/Oct/07 with Dave
georgeevans88 - Lead O/S - Oct/07 with Emily
Lead 2nd pitch
Al Franks - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/07 with Sam Howell
Lead middle pitch
Alasdair88 - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/07 with Sam Howell
deklan - Lead - Sep/07 with lord harry
Dale - AltLd O/S - Sep/07 with johny
A quick evening's solo using a top rope and the shunt. Found an extender perched on the bushes!
jamestryfan - Solo O/S - 05/Aug/07
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/07 with Feeling Bold
Feeling bold - 2nd - 28/Jul/07 with Tom Dixon
Quite bold in places! Nice climb apart from the first pitch, where you have to do some gardening (take seceteurs next time!). The approach path is quite overgrown, and would benefit from some gardening too.
Chris Sansum - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/07 with Weilin Wang
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/07
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/May/07
Led optional middle pitch up slab to roof. Overhang sections not too bad.
Ice cream van drove off as i came over the fence!!
ellentaylor - AltLd O/S - 01/May/07 with 31770
django - 2nd O/S - May/07 with John Rowe
Hidden - AltLd rpt - 15/Apr/07
jon bradley - AltLd O/S - Apr/07 with Huw Howells
mol - AltLd - 16/Sep/06 with Dave
Lead pitch 1+2
chiverstom - AltLd O/S - 28/Jun/06 with Jonny
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Jun/06
P1 scramble. I led P2, Sandy led P3.
bpmclimb - AltLd O/S - 04/May/06 with Clare & Sandy
Fat Tim - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/06 with Sarah Baker
Lev - AltLd O/S - 22/Apr/06 with Emma Ross
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Apr/06
Led all 3 pitches
Bux - Lead O/S - Apr/06 with Rupert Bassadone
phsharpy - Lead O/S - 05/Mar/06 with Bethan Davies
Climbed before and after rockfall, now two pitches of sustained 4c.
beardy mike - Lead O/S - 2006 with Noel Duffy
John Lisle - 2006
Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 2006
Marcus - 2006
Richard Hall - 2006
Tamlyn - AltLd O/S - May/05 with Rob Slacks
Month a guess
Andrew Barker - AltLd O/S - May/05 with Dave Peachey
_m.cox_ - Lead O/S - May/05
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Apr/05
al99 - Lead O/S - Apr/05 with Jeremy king
Hidden - AltLd - 2005
tom.e - Lead O/S - 2005
tom.e - Lead rpt - Nov/04 with Alex Barrows
furry - AltLd O/S - 20/Aug/04 with Neil
Pylon King Against Capit@lism - Lead O/S - Mar/04 with Ady Short
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2004
Digger - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/03 with James Latham
Paz - Solo rpt - Jul/03
Jim Brooke - 2nd rpt - 18/May/02 with Rich
markysums - 2002
IceMonkey1982 - 2002
tomkhoward - AltLd O/S - 2002 with Unknown
simon kimber - AltLd O/S - 2002 with Robin Wilmshurst-Smith
cornishben - AltLd O/S - 2001 with Andy Connor
gimmer - 2001
CurlyStevo - AltLd - 2001
Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/00
Hidden - Lead - Apr/00
Hidden - 2000
alan moore - 2000
Boxy - Lead O/S - 15/Nov/99 with Chris
Hidden - AltLd - 13/Jun/99
Jim Brooke - AltLd rpt - 27/Mar/99 with Vic, Liz Cant
serby - Lead - 1999
Jim Brooke - AltLd rpt - 31/Jan/98
lowersharpnose - Lead - 01/Jan/98
Jim Brooke - AltLd O/S - 21/Mar/97 with James Latham
pezzerrr - AltLd O/S - Mar/97
lead p1 and 3. excellent
colin milton - AltLd - 22/Sep/96 with eric milton
jim_randell - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/94 with FW
AndySL - AltLd O/S - 01/Jun/93 with Mark
GAtkins - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/93 with Bob Linnegar
chris sm - AltLd O/S - 28/Feb/93 with Martin Sime
Okecroak - AltLd - 27/Sep/92 with M Mercy
Budge - AltLd O/S - Jun/92 with Brian Ottewell
Hidden - Lead - 17/May/92
GAtkins - Lead O/S - 01/May/92 with Andy Russell
GAtkins - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/91 with Bob Linnegar, Andy Russell, Nick Stenning
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1989
mikej - Lead - 13/May/88 with Robert Smith
mark-abz - AltLd - 05/Mar/88 with Andy W
AndyB123 - Lead - 1988 with Andy E
Tony Buckley - AltLd - Jun/87 with Robert Clark
bullybones - Lead - 1987
Led all pitches
Pete Nugent - Lead O/S - 03/Feb/85 with Nigel Brooks (Thames Valley CC), Andy Kitchen
JamieAyres - AltLd dog - 1985 with Peter Rickard
andy gittins - 1983
John Marsland - 2nd - Dec/82 with Tony Rex
leland stamper - Lead O/S - Jun/82 with pete crutchley
AlanLittle - 1982
stp - 2nd O/S - 30/May/81
Nigel Coe - AltLd - 30/Sep/79 with Steve Portnoi
Hidden - AltLd - 21/Aug/77
Mark Kemball - Lead - 10/May/75 with Norman
Andy Chubb - 2nd - 1975 with Pete Watts
Nigel Bond - 03/Aug/74 with Pete Dainty
Nigel Bond - AltLd - 20/Jul/74 with Dave Jolliffe, Alan
tapley - Lead - 31/Oct/73 with Alison Tapley
Hidden - Lead O/S - 1973
Gordon Stainforth - Lead - 15/Jun/72 with John Williams
Hidden - AltLd - 1966