UKC Logbook - 'Unknown Wall'

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Avon > Avon Gorge (Sea Walls) >

Unknown Wall

VS 4c

Adjacent Climbs
<< Urban Gorilla

Unknown Slab >>

A shy gem of a climb that builds to a dramatic climax in its upper reaches. The first pitch is vegetated but the holds are clean. Start at the well-worn gearing-up spot as for The Blik.. 1) 10m. Climb up rightwards on easy but vegetated ground to a good belay ledge right of a projecting block.. 2) 4c, 27m. Continue above the belay and take the line left of the overhang (double pegs) that ends at a bulge. Move right and up past a peg with difficulty to an open corner and belay ledge.. 3) 4c, 18m. Climb up to the overhang, pegs, and traverse left beneath them for 6m to where they fade. Move up past double pegs to easier ground and the top. © ROCKFAX
M Thompson, R Harris 1961

Ticklists: Avon Gorge non-Extremes, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, Avon VSes.

Photo: Hamming it up on Unknown Wall © Jonny2vests
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS

This climb is in 247 logbooks, and on 13 wishlists.

will moy - AltLd O/S - 13/Jan/13

Eike - 2nd - 18/Nov/12 with Tom Blight

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Sep/12

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 06/Sep/12

Slick - AltLd - 20/Aug/12 with Kevin Vans-Colina

katherinesydney - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/12 with mike kann

Lead pitch 2. not to dificult but very exposed with poor gear and big run outs. p3 was straightforward and enjoyable on second.
Webster - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/12

steve-grigg - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/12 with David Webster

zcsharp - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/12 with James S

James S - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/12 with jamie

George Frisby - 2nd O/S - 24/Jun/12 with Chris

What a beast! Sustained, steep, rusty pegs, and a dubious belay. The topout is one of the best in the gorge though.
Staffmeister - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/12 with George Frisby

Top route! exciting positions for the grade. Topping out 10 meters from the ice cream van is a bonus!
Poco Loco - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/12 with Lucy

lucyh - 2nd - 09/Jun/12 with James Pomeroy

One of the more hilarious climbing experiences to date what with Jason dropping his mums pink Ł70 camera that he was borrowing down a gully.
Quarryboy - AltLd rpt - 26/May/12 with Jason and friends

Andy's first multi-pitch. This was lovely route for it - steady climbing, airey position, nice belay ledge.
hms - Lead O/S - 25/May/12 with Andy

Kylie P1, me P2&3 P2 definitely good value for the grade! P2 belay possibly scarier than the climb itself being composed as it is of a horror show of dying pegs in slightly the wrong direction backed up with one small directional offset. Good climb though; memorable... Upon checking the Rockfax guide they recommend belaying a few metres below the roof - this would have been much more sensible!
mullermn - AltLd O/S - 25/May/12 with Kylie Richards

Second pitch, a joy.
pffft - AltLd rpt - 19/May/12

Lovely.I lead P1&2 together. Thought it was quite tricky in places.
Monk - AltLd O/S - 19/May/12 with Luke Vincent

TDembrey - Lead rpt - 13/May/12 with Peter

pheotleyr - 2nd β - 13/May/12 with Todd

Hidden - AltLd - 30/Mar/12

Izzy led P2
Slick - AltLd - 30/Mar/12 with Isabel Evans

Jack_F - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/12 with Cameron

Pitch 3 instead this time round. Good route but was not very psyched this morning.
Stanners - AltLd rpt - 18/Mar/12 with James Rich, Jack Bradbrook

Big and intimidating as ever
Quarryboy - AltLd rpt - 18/Mar/12 with James Rich, Rob Stanfield

It was really cold and I couldn't feel my fingers on pitch 2 and 3 which made it a bit tricky. I led the first, easy, pitch.
JamesRich - AltLd O/S - 18/Mar/12 with Rob stanfield, Jack Bradbrook

Dean177 - Lead O/S - 02/Mar/12 with Will Twigger

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Feb/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Feb/12

Hidden - 2nd β - Feb/12

Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 28/Jan/12 with Graeme

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Jan/12

georgeevans88 - Lead O/S - 28/Jan/12 with James N

jamesn89 - 2nd O/S - 28/Jan/12 with george e

David Qualtrough - 2012

abtibbs - AltLd O/S - 2012 with Jack Verber

HarryB - Lead rpt - 07/Dec/11 with Katherine Ross

Refreshing to climb in the gorge with so little polish! Nice climbing on P2 & 3, though I thought I was going to come off at 2 points on P2.
Katherine Ross - 2nd O/S - 07/Dec/11 with Harry Bloxham

georgeevans88 - AltLd O/S - 27/Nov/11 with Alex P

Great route! Very little polosh considering the grade. Scrambled P1, led P3.
aipattison - AltLd O/S - 27/Nov/11 with George Evans

Some steep sections but the holds are all there.
maresia - AltLd O/S - 13/Nov/11 with Mike Kann

Think the gentleman above conned me into the HVS 4c variation, though not sure. What ever it was, it was bold for VS 4c. Love going under the overhang though :-)
pffft - Lead O/S - 13/Nov/11 with Jojo Mills

dan ely - AltLd O/S - 23/Oct/11 with jon (ukc reading)

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Oct/11

Gary S - AltLd O/S - 15/Oct/11 with Tom Moat

Diane - 2nd - 28/Sep/11 with Andrew Tobin

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/11

standard Vs climbing. top pitch is definitely easier but has a nice sequence of exposed moves
benkelsey - AltLd O/S - 02/Sep/11 with Alex Randall

arandall - Lead β - Sep/11 with Hebe Knowles

arandall - AltLd rpt - Sep/11 with Ben Kelsey

Decent and exposed VS with a slightly tricky crux around the double bolts along P2. The whole second pitch feels pretty exposed right up to the belay under the roof (easier belay station than the option of the double bolts). The final pitch traverse and rock over up and out between the overhang is a nice but short sequence of moves.
ashley_sandeman - AltLd β - 19/Aug/11 with kingrollo

Clean onsight lead of P1 & P2, though in the heat almost stacked it when my left hand slipped! Backed off from the belay under the roof as second felt too exposed. Not an easy retreat.
Dave Ing - Lead dnf - 26/Jul/11 with Bridgette

Great 2nd pitch and surprised myself with the crux. Felt too intimidated by the stance of the belay to complete the climb.
BB1 - 2nd - 26/Jul/11 with Dave Ing

Easy climbing but the position and the situations on it make it feel very serious and intimidating for the grade.
Quarryboy - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/11 with Rob Stanfield

2nd pitch. Fantastic route, but worryingly hollow sounding flake you have to pull on half way up. Difficult last pitch with a fairly heavy backpack on. Dyno version next time!
Stanners - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/11 with Jack Bradbrook

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/11

Clay C - AltLd rpt - 19/Jun/11 with Harry K

Nice climb, but very very loose rock..ice cream and beautiful view on the top~
karenhh - AltLd - 19/Jun/11 with Tom Brierley

Nice climb, especially with the thought of ice-cream at the top :D Be very careful of loose rock on this climb, when we climbed it i came across a large chunk of rock half way up the middle pitch that was loose but heavy enough not to come off when pulled on... i could actually lift it slightly to remove gear.
Tom Brierley Gore - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/11 with Shijing Hu

Led P1 & 3
andy dunn - AltLd rpt - 14/Jun/11 with Big Ben

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/May/11

done in 2 pitches, I lead to start of groove under roof, will finished
scorpia97 - AltLd rpt - 27/May/11 with Will Attridge

Led P2. Was high in VS, got very exposed very quickly. well worth its 2 stars
stvredmond - AltLd - 21/May/11 with Sean mercer

Hidden - AltLd - 21/May/11

Hidden - Lead - 14/May/11

Led P1 and 3, found the traverse under the roof harder then pulling through but overall the route wasnt a difficult as I expected
HarryB - AltLd O/S - 04/May/11 with Al

Pbclimbing.com - AltLd O/S - May/11 with henry castle

richtea21 - AltLd - May/11 with S.Pelly

Pitch's 1 and 3, my second finished the 2nd pitch in the wrong place so most of the 3rd pitch was missed.
arandall - AltLd dog - 25/Apr/11 with Isaac Whitcombe

Slick - Lead - 19/Apr/11 with David Q

Slick - AltLd - 18/Apr/11 with Kevin Vans-Colina

RedFox - AltLd O/S - 17/Apr/11 with Tom K

crossdressingrodney - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/11 with john h

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Apr/11

2nd pitch -trickier than I remember from 40 years ago! Beautiful sunny afternoon.
Rob Exile Ward - Lead - 19/Mar/11 with Sam Ward

Lead P2, Sophie lead P1 and P3
Greg Pittam - AltLd O/S - 19/Mar/11 with Sophie Keltie

Led all pitches - Really enjoyed the pull out onto the arete on the 2nd pitch along with the start of the 3rd.
andy dunn - Lead O/S - 05/Mar/11 with J, Alan

Hidden - Solo rpt - Mar/11

Hidden - Lead dnf - 17/Jan/11

31770 - 2011

Johnny Baker - 2011 with Derek Toulalan, Dave Webster

kelliroberts3 - Lead O/S - Nov/10 with Toby Stead

Kevster - Lead O/S - 24/Oct/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Sep/10

Stone Muppet - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/10 with ah

Scrambled P1, Lead P2 and Clay on P3. Little dissapointed with the length of P3 but good climb.
TDembrey - 2nd O/S - 09/Sep/10 with Clay

We scrambled up to the first belay, Todd led 2nd pitch and I led 3rd.
Clay C - AltLd O/S - 09/Sep/10 with Todd

Pete Rigby - AltLd O/S - Sep/10

awesome route,not been that scared for a while and a 99 at the top haha!
brew_guru - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/10 with super gav

Sitting on the belay after p2 is wicked (good route too!).
thomasadixon - 2nd rpt - 09/Jul/10 with Becca

v good - really cool stance at end on p2!!!
BeccaSnowden - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/10 with Tom

django - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/10 with John Rowe

zach.stone - 2nd β - 22/Jun/10 with Jon Hauser

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/10

Gibbo - 2nd - 03/Jun/10 with Ollie Keynes

localboy - 2nd dog - 18/May/10 with Simon C

Great route, pretty exposed! Led 2nd pitch
wildrover220 - AltLd O/S - 10/May/10 with Ali Dixon

P1 + 3. P1 was crap, very vegetated, but the rest was ace.
sweenyt - AltLd O/S - 05/May/10 with Cate

Henry lead pitch 1 and 3 (pitch 1 really needs clearing, is covered in brambles), I lead pitch 2 - got very scared, but felt so good when I did it!
catemuir - AltLd - 05/May/10 with Henry Todd

Jessie Rushbrooke - Lead O/S - 04/May/10 with GF

georgeevans88 - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/10 with Hannah

Great VS! Scrambled P1, Led P2 and P3. P1 is a bit vegetated but very easy, P2 is quite long with a couple of bold moments (long run between gear and rusty pegs). There is a big dodgy looking block on P2 but not loose yet. P3 is very atmospheric but found it easier technically. definitely 2 stars! Finished at 8:30 ice cream van was gone, dam!
Fred_Richard - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/10 with Karl Carter

Albino - 2nd - 27/Apr/10 with Fred Richard

Chris lead P1 and P2 as single pitch; led P3
simonf - AltLd O/S - 27/Apr/10 with Jane, Chris

1 just a scramble, Led 2, Dave led 3. Nice one, one really tricky move on each of 2nd and 3rd pitches though 2nd pitch easy enough when worked out. Good sticky rock apart from one foot hold on 3!
PaulWatson - AltLd O/S - 20/Apr/10 with Dave P

Vertigo1 - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/10 with "Brosky"

tommytuffa - AltLd - 04/Mar/10 with chris s

Climbed in an improvised harness made out of slings after forgetting to pack my harness! Chris P2 Tom P3 (P1 is a scramble)
Chris Sansum - AltLd rpt - 04/Mar/10 with Tom

Fred_Richard - Lead - 2010

jase burnard - Lead - 25/Oct/09

good climb, got in a bit tangle on the second pitch crux as i decided not to remove the pegged protection before moving round... :/
suffolknick - 2nd O/S - 27/Sep/09 with Paul

harder than before...
evhall - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/09 with Fletch

Chris/Gary - solo P1, Gary P2, Chris P3
Chris Sansum - AltLd rpt - 13/Sep/09 with Gary Lewin

Atmospheric and excellent. Not particularly bold contrary to what the guide says.
Southern Man - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/09 with Clive

Hidden - Lead - 22/Aug/09

Quirina - 2nd O/S - 22/Aug/09 with Neil Larsen

Ben led first pitch. Footwork on second pitch traverse is crucial, especially since the three belay pegs are rusty *yikes*.
ruaidh - AltLd O/S - 16/Aug/09 with Ben

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/09

easy - finally lead top pitch too
evhall - Lead rpt - 13/Jun/09 with J + Mike

V. vegetated at the bottom, but soon broke out onto decent rock. Gear was pretty sparse - relying on dodgy old pegs for the most part, wished I'd taken tricams! Felt reasonably steep and sustained. Last pitch easier. Should have used the alternative belay on the big ledge-would have saved a lot of faff....
Ewan Richards - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/09 with LizD

lizannday - 2nd - 10/Jun/09 with Ewan Richards

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 01/Jun/09

Rpt..ice cream van was still there at 9pm.
Feeling bold - 2nd rpt - 01/Jun/09 with Neil, Cheddar John

Dr Caterpillar - AltLd O/S - 11/May/09 with Calum

deklan - AltLd - 07/May/09 with luke

luke13 - AltLd - May/09 with Dec

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/09

jh5638 - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/09 with Doug Hamilton

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 21/Mar/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/09

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 19/Mar/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Jan/09

P2 detour on HVS 4c.
scorpia97 - 2nd O/S - 07/Jan/09 with Caspian

Did HVS 4c variation on "pitch 2." Climbed all in one pitch.
Caspar - Lead O/S - 07/Jan/09 with scorpia97

came *very* close to taking whipper after my foot slipped which certainly added to the 'atmosphere' :)
MagnusL - AltLd O/S - 02/Jan/09 with My mate Paul

Kenemo - 2009

CarolineH - 2nd O/S - 12/Nov/08 with Joe

Hidden - Lead rpt - 03/Oct/08

John Dale - AltLd - 04/Jul/08 with Dave Wagg

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Jun/08

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Jun/08

georgeevans88 - Lead O/S - 13/May/08 with Emily K

georgeevans88 - Lead O/S - 01/May/08 with Harry H

Messners Yeti - AltLd O/S - 26/Apr/08 with Si Strain

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Apr/08

Alan linked first three pitches. Quite exposed at times and with a few "interestingly polished" holds.
dzlhodgson - 2nd O/S - 25/Apr/08 with Alan Sage

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Apr/08

Marti999 - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/08 with Mark Glaister

Al Franks - AltLd rpt - 17/Feb/08 with Andy Hayes

Lead 3rd pitch
Alasdair88 - AltLd rpt - 17/Feb/08 with Andy Hayes

Hidden - Lead rpt - 13/Feb/08

georgeevans88 - Lead O/S - Feb/08 with Al

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Jan/08

catemuir - 2nd - Jan/08 with Harry Allan

daveagriff - 2nd - 2008

Hidden - Lead - 2008

First pitch 'a bit green'; I'd suggest a sit-on lawn mower rather than secateurs; leaves the rock shoes nice and greasy for pitch 2, which used to be two pitches before the second belay stance collapsed, (my 1990s guidebook is out of date). Worryingly loose chunks of rock at head height came off when touched (the orange stuff on the left). Some interesting and varied moves made this climb a real pleasure. The final pitch has a delicately balanced traverse 6 - 8 ft followed by a pull-through described by the book as 'surprisingly difficult', but in fact protected by two very solid pegs and served by more than adequate hand holds. Above this move the finish was easy, the only complication being the impossibility of verbal communication with the climbing partner. Radios are always a good idea at Avon. Emerging right next to the van rewards the climber with the combined smells of ice-cream and diesel fumes along with a crowd of interested pedestrians. Take an old krab to give to a fascinated small child and inspire the next generation.
Humpty Dangler - AltLd O/S - 14/Oct/07 with Jordan Lane

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Oct/07

CarolineH - 2nd - 07/Oct/07 with Dave

georgeevans88 - Lead O/S - Oct/07 with Emily

Lead 2nd pitch
Al Franks - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/07 with Sam Howell

Lead middle pitch
Alasdair88 - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/07 with Sam Howell

deklan - Lead - Sep/07 with lord harry

good adenture
Dale - AltLd O/S - Sep/07 with johny

A quick evening's solo using a top rope and the shunt. Found an extender perched on the bushes!
jamestryfan - Solo O/S - 05/Aug/07

thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/07 with Feeling Bold

Feeling bold - 2nd - 28/Jul/07 with Tom Dixon

Quite bold in places! Nice climb apart from the first pitch, where you have to do some gardening (take seceteurs next time!). The approach path is quite overgrown, and would benefit from some gardening too.
Chris Sansum - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/07 with Weilin Wang

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/May/07

Led optional middle pitch up slab to roof. Overhang sections not too bad. Ice cream van drove off as i came over the fence!!
ellentaylor - AltLd O/S - 01/May/07 with 31770

django - 2nd O/S - May/07 with John Rowe

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 15/Apr/07

jon bradley - AltLd O/S - Apr/07 with Huw Howells

mol - AltLd - 16/Sep/06 with Dave

Lead pitch 1+2
chiverstom - AltLd O/S - 28/Jun/06 with Jonny

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Jun/06

P1 scramble. I led P2, Sandy led P3.
bpmclimb - AltLd O/S - 04/May/06 with Clare & Sandy

Fat Tim - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/06 with Sarah Baker

Lev - AltLd O/S - 22/Apr/06 with Emma Ross

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Apr/06

Led all 3 pitches
Bux - Lead O/S - Apr/06 with Rupert Bassadone

phsharpy - Lead O/S - 05/Mar/06 with Bethan Davies