Yellow Edge*** E3 5c
[Yellow Edge P3, Exploading Galexy Wall, Avon Gorge, 2 kb]

Rockfax Description
A steep and exciting journey up the very centre of the wall - a Gorge classic. Start 20m left of the huge corner at a well-trodden patch of ground clear of brambles, beneath a bolt at 9m.
1) 5c, 26m. Move up shale covered ledges to the bolt. Make an awkward short traverse left and up to better holds and another bolt above. Trend right and move up into a vertical borehole and good small wires. Move up to the top of the borehole, peg, and traverse steeply left to a grassy ledge and pull onto it. Move up right to another good ledge with a double staple bolt belay.
2) 5b, 22m. Clip a ring peg above the ledge on the right and make surprisingly difficult moves up the wall and onto a hollow flake/ledge. Move up leftwards and clip a peg before traversing left on good pockets to a peg and deep pocket (just above a prominent metal spike). Climb a crack above the pocket and gain a small ledge, peg. Stand on the ledge and move up the wall to easier ground. Traverse left past a good calcite thread, and the base of the impending corner above, and make steep moves up past a couple of pegs to a hanging belay on a spike and good nuts.
3) 5b, 22m. Climb rightwards on great holds with feet above the overhang past a thread to a harder section where the wall turns smoother. Gain a small pancake of rock (good thin-sling runner) and prominent peg. Now gain the right-to-left sloping ramp and follow this on rounded but plentiful holds to a steep exit near its end. A wildly exposed pitch. © ROCKFAX

D Ivory, E Hart (T Gloag, P Johnston (1 aid pt) May/1972) 1973

Ticklists: Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, Rockfax West Country top 50, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Ultimate E3 ticklist.

Photo: Yellow Edge P3, Exploading Galexy Wall, Avon Gorge © Will Goldsmith
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This climb is in 144 logbooks, and on 27 wishlists.

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Jul/15

Luxulyan - AltLd O/S - 23/Jun/15 with Harry

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/15

A belter, the positions and exposure are fab. Not sure about the 5c on 1st pitch. I lead second pitch, loved the rock in the main break - funky!
tobydunford - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/15 with Harry Martin

varied and fun climbing!
climbomaniac - Lead O/S - 16/May/15

A very good route, 3 stars for sure, really varied and engaging climbing throughout. At the technical end of 5c rather than being burly - you need to be thoughtful with body position and foot placements. Never pumpy. Had the pleasure of leading all 3 pitches - cheers Ro!
ollie_e - Lead O/S - 04/May/15 with ro jones

The horror. Final pitch particularly harrowing in the rain...
red_rhodesha - 2nd - 04/May/15 with Ollie Elms

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Jan/15

Have been saving this for aggesss, Such a great route, fighting the bitter January cold and getting super scared on the top pitch!
Jack_F - Lead O/S - 07/Jan/15 with Remus

danmullett - AltLd O/S - 03/Aug/14

skippington - AltLd O/S - 03/Aug/14

Amazing, such good exposure
brices - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/14 with Mike

Class route, great exposure, worth the hype. The rock on the last pitch is great, and that ramp at the top is quite a unique feature. All pitches are pretty bold, but nothing horrendous and technically pretty soft for 5c (I think). It was one of those deceptively cold days, very warm in the sun, so set off in just a t-shirt. Regretted this when the sun went in and wind got up, leaving me shivering at the belay ledge.
Nick Russell - AltLd O/S - 17/Mar/14 with Jamie

Lead P2, little less gear than i thought there was gonna be but i guess its an E3 for reason.
zcsharp - AltLd O/S - 17/Mar/14 with Nick Russell

Should of lead p2! Beautiful
Cheese Monkey - 2nd O/S - 12/Oct/13 with Neil

Led pitches 1 + 3
tom.e - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/13 with Charlie Everett

Awesome. Outrageous exposure on the final pitch. Led P1 and P3.
Alex Winter - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/13 with Neil

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Jun/13

Alice Thompson - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Michael Porter

jcw - 2013

Had previously seconded p1. Lead 1&3 - terrifying but amazing :)
BeccaSnowden - AltLd O/S - 14/Oct/12 with Tom

Led 2nd pitch this time - and got to watch base jumpers flying down off Main Wall from the belay. Previously did the first again when the balloon fiesta was on and saw a balloon almost hit the wall above us, scraped its way over the fence! Exciting place this cliff.
thomasadixon - Lead rpt - 14/Oct/12 with Becca

dan ely - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/12 with Kemics

First E3 (Led P.2) Left to dry out as everything was soaked in the morning. Start to second pitch was a little too bold to enjoy while climbing (ring peg is proper manky) Finished chased by the darkness coming up the wall from the setting sun. One of my best climbs, was buzzing but only once i'd finally made it to the railings. Painful 2nd stance!
Kemics - AltLd O/S - 06/Oct/12 with Enduro Dan

Led p2
cem - AltLd O/S - 06/Sep/12 with Chris Parson

drcorbasisgod - AltLd O/S - Sep/12 with Charles Moreton

Garrouli - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/12 with Northern Pete

Pete Rigby - AltLd rpt - 30/Jul/12 with Gary

yan hawkins - AltLd O/S - 28/Jun/12 with Donald 'Big Boy' Birchall

With one man down the day wasn't looking promising. Getting on this changed all that though. Very Very good route, not as bold as I was expecting. The first pitch is a harsh warm-up. Lead Pitch 2 and glad I did. A chapter over in my avon gorge career..
Stanners - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/12 with Jack Bradbrook

Had been an aspiration of mine to climb this for a long time and very happy to finally do it. Definitely an essential tick for any regular Avoner and a true rite of passage. Each pitch has its own unique character and something very different to offer which makes for an exciting trip up the enormous wall. No especially hard or bold bits on any of the pitches but there are still enough tricky moves and run outs to keep you in the head space the whole time. Excellent route. (Led pitches 1 and 3)
Quarryboy - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/12 with Rob Stanfield

P1 and P3. Deep breathing required for the runout top pitch, but it is way steady and has islands of bomber gear. A good experience.
eddy-on-the-rocks - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/12 with Mark

Led P1 and P3. Very, very good.
John Southworth - AltLd O/S - 18/Mar/12 with Rich Smith

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 18/Mar/12

I lead P2 & 3, P1 is way harder than these and has an intimidating start.
James Marshall - Lead rpt - Mar/12 with Pete Shepherd

P1 & 3
mikeshewring - AltLd - 26/Feb/12

Awesome route. Led P1 & P3. Airy but brilliant finish.
thomb - AltLd O/S - 07/Jan/12 with Gareth

Lead second pitch. Great route.
DorsetGareth - AltLd O/S - 07/Jan/12 with Tom B

Pleasant, exposed, somewhat crusty climbing. Challenging but not technically difficult anywhere.
Toby Dunn - AltLd - 13/Nov/11 with Sophie Nunn

Sophie Nunn - AltLd O/S - 13/Nov/11 with Toby

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Oct/11

P2, gibbering slightly.
Justin T - AltLd - 21/Oct/11 with John Mcshea, Cherry

stephenhartley - 2nd - 03/Oct/11 with Burns

Pure class. Top pitch a very different experience to the rest of Avon, very strange (and good) rock on this wall.
thomasadixon - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/11 with Quico

Wet day so had a look at Avon. Wet rock so had a look at Exploding Galaxy wall. P1 v bold and technical at the crux. Good lead from Misha, 2nd in the rain, sliiipy. watched the rain from 1st belay and then lead P2 but had to rest after going wrong way at the mantle shelf - so annoyed! Top pitch excellentspace walking. Ice cream top out and abbed back down in a final down pour.
philhilo - AltLd dog - 07/Aug/11 with misha

What a brilliant route! It had rained earlier in the day and we could see some wet patches above the second borehole on P1 but decided to give it a go anyway. The sun was blazing as I set off on P1, which proved to be bold and tricky in places and fairly sustained overall. Started raining fairly hard just after I got to the bolted belay - a good second by Phil as most of the good holds were wet! By the time we had swapped the gear, it had stopped raining and the rock on P2 had mostly dried out, so Phil carried on. Started raining again as Phil was finishing the pitch but it stopped by the time I started seconding P2, which was pretty sustained and had lots of good climbing on increasingly interesting rock. I got P3, which was a refugee from Gogarth Red Wall with weird, funky rock that was mostly fairly straightforward but required a considered approach. Fantastic exposure moving up and left from the pancake gargoyle and peg. Topped out for an ice cream, then abbed down in two abs (the tat at the top could do with replacing soon) and got soaked in the process. Lots of blackberries at the bottom. Took up three and a half hours to the top.
Misha - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/11 with Phil

pezzerrr - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/May/11

1st pitch amazing, 2nd pitch pulled on gear, 3rd pitch too tired to remember but Andy said he thought it was brilliant...must have been good!
RachelP - 2nd - 15/May/11 with Andy T

Hidden - TR dog - 11/Apr/11

Hidden - TR dog - 08/Apr/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Mar/11

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 23/Mar/11

Loved the hanging belay, brilliant!
Harry Kingston - AltLd O/S - Mar/11

led p1&3
Aaron Lines - AltLd O/S - Nov/10 with frank

Hidden - TR β - 15/Sep/10

Hidden - TR β - 04/Sep/10

led the relatively easy middle pitch. brilliant.
Alasdair88 - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/10 with Raph, sophie

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/10

Hidden - TR β - 31/Aug/10

Hidden - TR β - 29/Aug/10

Hidden - TR O/S - 22/Aug/10

No guidebook and a single rope folded in half which was too short. EPIC.
Richard Hall - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/10 with Keith Bradbury

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Jul/10

A good route to test the repair of my broken bones and ligaments. Had to do it over 2 days as we ran out of time to pick Ollie up from school after the 2nd pitch. A brilliant route with exposure and hanging belays ideal for anyone wanting to take their first steps into adventure.
KRB - Lead rpt - 30/Jun/10 with Martin Bridges

richiebongo - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/10

AlexRenshaw - Lead - 09/May/10 with Ted Lister, Thomas Renshaw

Fantastic, unusual and classic. 5c, 5b, 5b. I led P2.
ericinbristol - AltLd O/S - 20/Apr/10 with Barry Durston

Superb. We combined pitches 2 + 3 in 1 big pitch - it may be better to take the belay in between to avoid getting pumped out of your mind some distance from your last gear on the final left trending ramp! We got down in two abs - from in situ gear on the tree at the top and from the double bolt belay ledge at the end of pitch 1.
Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/10 with Mike Hawkins

Led P1&3
Bristoldave - AltLd O/S - 02/Mar/10 with Harry

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Mar/10

Phil PBC - 2010

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/09

James Marshall - 2nd - 22/Jul/09

Brilliant. 4 stars. Combined p2 and p3.
Chubbard - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/09 with J Robinson

JimR - 18/Jul/09 with Charles H

just one more - Lead - 28/May/09 with tim b

Hidden - AltLd - 21/May/09

billb - AltLd O/S - May/09 with Rich Smith

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2009

Lead pitch 2. Great route, wild exposure on the top pitch
lukehodson - AltLd O/S - 07/Dec/08 with Howard

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/08

Lead P1 (4 runners) & P3 (~11 runners)
Paz - AltLd rpt - 29/Aug/08 with WG

Finished just into the dark with Rosea. Awesome.
Spacetourist - AltLd O/S - 2008 with Rosea

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 21/Jun/07

First Pitch only the abbed off.
Oli - Lead O/S - 01/Feb/07 with Fred

haydng - AltLd O/S - 2007 with Rob

waltersp - 2nd O/S - Dec/06 with Nick

Lead 2nd pitch; brief rest before the mantle shelf
simonf - AltLd dog - Nov/06 with Simon + Chris

Lead P3 for the second time, just safe steady runout E3 climbing.
Paz - AltLd rpt - 09/Sep/06 with MH

Washed away in a torrential downpour in 2003. Revisited for the last climb of the day one evening after work. Finished in virtual darkness at 10:30pm.
KRB - Lead rpt - 13/Jul/06 with Chris Bridges

Led 2nd pitch.
Bux - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/06 with Nick

Lead P2, which is probably why I think of this as easy E3 - I've only lead the top pitch once.
Paz - AltLd rpt - 04/Mar/06 with RJ

Jo McCready - 2006

Bern - 2006

Marti999 - AltLd - 2006

Paz - AltLd rpt - 31/May/05 with TS

Tim Steward - AltLd - 31/May/05 with James Parrot

joe_alexander - 2nd dog - 31/Jan/05 with Nick Gillette

phsharpy - Lead rpt - 2005 with Simon Kimber

Urgles - Lead O/S - Jul/04 with Jack G

lead P2.
Paz - AltLd rpt - 19/May/04 with AS

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/Apr/04

cornishben - 2nd O/S - 2004 with Mike Raine

dan gibson - 2004 with anthony prior

Hidden - 2004

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2004

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Nov/03

_m.cox_ - Lead O/S - Aug/03 with Adam Mulholland

Lead P1 and P3 (waited at the ramp for a heavy shower to pass).
Paz - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/03 with TC

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/03

Hidden - Lead rpt - 09/Apr/01

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/00

Billg - Lead O/S - Jul/00 with Harry

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

guy xavier percival - 1999

serby - Lead - 1999

Dave Musgrove Jnr - AltLd - 12/Sep/96 with Al Willoner

Hidden - Solo - 1996

I lead all the pitches and Adam climbed in his pants.
lowersharpnose - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/94 with Adam

GAtkins - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/94

chris sm - 2nd dnf - 29/Mar/94 with Jon Pearson

Hidden - Lead - 20/Mar/93

AndySL - 2nd O/S - 1993 with Tim

Roget - Lead O/S - 13/Nov/92 with mark turnbull

Pete Ogden - AltLd - 1990 with Mark Worsley

charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 01/Oct/89 with Andy Tallent

Hidden - Lead - 24/Sep/89

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1989

Hidden - 1989

Soloed having lead it the year before. Wobbly hold on the last move!
frank ramsay - Solo - Jul/88

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Apr/88

DDDD - 1987

bullybones - Lead - 1987

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1986 with Emily

Johnny Baker - 1986 with Pete Ollis

Ena - Lead dnf - Jun/85 with Mark Courtiour

andy gittins - 1983

stp - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/82

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/81

Steve Bell - 1981

Hidden - 1981

pete lead p1, I did P2/3 - we waltzed up it, both very fit, fantastic position on the final pitch :-)
barny - AltLd O/S - 1981 with Pete Sutton

steve L - Lead - 15/Sep/79 with Haydn Griffiths

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
mike mo, brew_guru, LJKing, Ollie B, Nigel Coe, Ropeboy, Owen W-G, s.c.white, Kemics, Dean177, andy dunn, Dan_Carroll

Total votes cast 103
hard E40 of 34
E40 of 34
easy E40 of 34
hard E30 of 34
E331 of 34
easy E33 of 34
hard E20 of 34
E20 of 34
easy E20 of 34
hard 6a0 of 33
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easy 6a0 of 33
hard 5c0 of 33
5c22 of 33
easy 5c11 of 33
hard 5b0 of 33
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3 Stars36 of 36
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat