Rockfax Description
A steep and exciting journey up the very centre of the wall - a Gorge classic. Start 20m left of the huge corner at a well-trodden patch of ground clear of brambles, beneath a bolt at 9m.
1) 5c, 26m. Move up shale covered ledges to the bolt. Make an awkward short traverse left and up to better holds and another bolt above. Trend right and move up into a vertical borehole and good small wires. Move up to the top of the borehole, peg, and traverse steeply left to a grassy ledge and pull onto it. Move up right to another good ledge with a double staple bolt belay.
2) 5b, 22m. Clip a ring peg above the ledge on the right and make surprisingly difficult moves up the wall and onto a hollow flake/ledge. Move up leftwards and clip a peg before traversing left on good pockets to a peg and deep pocket (just above a prominent metal spike). Climb a crack above the pocket and gain a small ledge, peg. Stand on the ledge and move up the wall to easier ground. Traverse left past a good calcite thread, and the base of the impending corner above, and make steep moves up past a couple of pegs to a hanging belay on a spike and good nuts.
3) 5b, 22m. Climb rightwards on great holds with feet above the overhang past a thread to a harder section where the wall turns smoother. Gain a small pancake of rock (good thin-sling runner) and prominent peg. Now gain the right-to-left sloping ramp and follow this on rounded but plentiful holds to a steep exit near its end. A wildly exposed pitch. © Rockfax

D Ivory, E Hart (T Gloag, P Johnston (1 aid pt) May/1972) 1973

Ticklists: Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, Rockfax West Country top 50, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Ultimate E3 ticklist.

shoulders 22/Nov 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/Nov Lead rpt
ollie_e 15/Nov AltLd rpt

Got p2 this this time, which I had to reverse after attempting to rock over too early, realising 3-4 months of bouldering doesn't do much for one's fitness and promptly shitting my pants. The whole ascent was rather audacious as we set off at half one and topped out at just before 5 as it was getting dark...quality route!!

with Caspian
Caspian Johnson 15/Nov AltLd

Epic, felt surprisingly good considering I've only been bouldering for a while. Lead p1 and p3. Can't believe this gem is literally on my doorstep! Looking forward to doing more on this wall

with ollie_e
steve_gibbs 12/Sep AltLd O/S

Lead P2.

with Graham McGrath
Ginger McGrath 12/Sep AltLd O/S

great route!... all on sight for the yellow edge bits... got quite physced and did a direct finish on the last pitch, not sure what it was, had a quite a few pegs in it, maybe tech 6a? anyways got scared and grabbed a quick draw annoyingly!

with steve gibbs
Hidden 14/Jul 2nd
Luxulyan 23/Jun AltLd O/S
with Harry
Hidden 14/Jun Lead O/S
tobydunford 03/Jun AltLd O/S

A belter, the positions and exposure are fab. Not sure about the 5c on 1st pitch. I lead second pitch, loved the rock in the main break - funky!

with Harry Martin
climbomaniac 16/May Lead O/S

varied and fun climbing!

ollie_e 04/May Lead O/S

A very good route, 3 stars for sure, really varied and engaging climbing throughout. At the technical end of 5c rather than being burly - you need to be thoughtful with body position and foot placements. Never pumpy. Had the pleasure of leading all 3 pitches - cheers Ro!

red_rhodesha 04/May 2nd

The horror. Final pitch particularly harrowing in the rain...

Hidden 24/Jan AltLd O/S
Jack_F 07/Jan Lead O/S

Have been saving this for aggesss, Such a great route, fighting the bitter January cold and getting super scared on the top pitch!

with Remus
danmullett 03/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
skippington 03/Aug/14 AltLd O/S


brices 22/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Amazing, such good exposure

with Mike
Nick Russell 17/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Class route, great exposure, worth the hype. The rock on the last pitch is great, and that ramp at the top is quite a unique feature. All pitches are pretty bold, but nothing horrendous and technically pretty soft for 5c (I think). It was one of those deceptively cold days, very warm in the sun, so set off in just a t-shirt. Regretted this when the sun went in and wind got up, leaving me shivering at the belay ledge.

with Jamie
zcsharp 17/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Lead P2, little less gear than i thought there was gonna be but i guess its an E3 for reason.

Cheese Monkey 12/Oct/13 2nd O/S

Should of lead p2! Beautiful

with Neil
tom.e 02/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1 + 3

with Charlie Everett
Alex Winter 04/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Awesome. Outrageous exposure on the final pitch. Led P1 and P3.

with Neil
Hidden 01/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Alice Thompson 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Michael Porter
jcw ??/2013 -
BeccaSnowden 14/Oct/12 AltLd O/S

Had previously seconded p1. Lead 1&3 - terrifying but amazing :)

with Tom
thomasadixon 14/Oct/12 Lead rpt

Led 2nd pitch this time - and got to watch base jumpers flying down off Main Wall from the belay. Previously did the first again when the balloon fiesta was on and saw a balloon almost hit the wall above us, scraped its way over the fence! Exciting place this cliff.

with Becca
dan ely 06/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Kemics
Kemics 06/Oct/12 AltLd O/S

First E3 (Led P.2) Left to dry out as everything was soaked in the morning. Start to second pitch was a little too bold to enjoy while climbing (ring peg is proper manky) Finished chased by the darkness coming up the wall from the setting sun. One of my best climbs, was buzzing but only once i'd finally made it to the railings. Painful 2nd stance!

cem 06/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Led p2

drcorbasisgod ?/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
Garrouli 30/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Northern Pete
Pete Rigby 30/Jul/12 AltLd rpt
with Gary
yan hawkins 28/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
with Donald 'Big Boy' Birchall
Stanners 20/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

With one man down the day wasn't looking promising. Getting on this changed all that though. Very Very good route, not as bold as I was expecting. The first pitch is a harsh warm-up. Lead Pitch 2 and glad I did. A chapter over in my avon gorge career..

Quarryboy 20/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Had been an aspiration of mine to climb this for a long time and very happy to finally do it. Definitely an essential tick for any regular Avoner and a true rite of passage. Each pitch has its own unique character and something very different to offer which makes for an exciting trip up the enormous wall. No especially hard or bold bits on any of the pitches but there are still enough tricky moves and run outs to keep you in the head space the whole time. Excellent route. (Led pitches 1 and 3)

eddy-on-the-rocks 09/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

P1 and P3. Deep breathing required for the runout top pitch, but it is way steady and has islands of bomber gear. A good experience.

with Mark
John Southworth 18/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Led P1 and P3. Very, very good.

Hidden 18/Mar/12 AltLd rpt
Hidden ?/Mar/12 Lead rpt
mikeshewring 26/Feb/12 AltLd

P1 & 3

thomb 07/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

Awesome route. Led P1 & P3. Airy but brilliant finish.

with Gareth
DorsetGareth 07/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

Lead second pitch. Great route.

with Tom B
Toby Dunn 13/Nov/11 AltLd

Pleasant, exposed, somewhat crusty climbing. Challenging but not technically difficult anywhere.

with Sophie Nunn
Sophie Nunn 13/Nov/11 AltLd O/S
with Toby
Hidden 21/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
Justin T 21/Oct/11 AltLd

P2, gibbering slightly.

stephenhartley 03/Oct/11 2nd
with Burns
thomasadixon 12/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Pure class. Top pitch a very different experience to the rest of Avon, very strange (and good) rock on this wall.

with Quico
philhilo 07/Aug/11 AltLd dog

Wet day so had a look at Avon. Wet rock so had a look at Exploding Galaxy wall. P1 v bold and technical at the crux. Good lead from Misha, 2nd in the rain, sliiipy. watched the rain from 1st belay and then lead P2 but had to rest after going wrong way at the mantle shelf - so annoyed! Top pitch excellentspace walking. Ice cream top out and abbed back down in a final down pour.

with misha
Misha 07/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

What a brilliant route! It had rained earlier in the day and we could see some wet patches above the second borehole on P1 but decided to give it a go anyway. The sun was blazing as I set off on P1, which proved to be bold and tricky in places and fairly sustained overall. Started raining fairly hard just after I got to the bolted belay - a good second by Phil as most of the good holds were wet! By the time we had swapped the gear, it had stopped raining and the rock on P2 had mostly dried out, so Phil carried on. Started raining again as Phil was finishing the pitch but it stopped by the time I started seconding P2, which was pretty sustained and had lots of good climbing on increasingly interesting rock. I got P3, which was a refugee from Gogarth Red Wall with weird, funky rock that was mostly fairly straightforward but required a considered approach. Fantastic exposure moving up and left from the pancake gargoyle and peg. Topped out for an ice cream, then abbed down in two abs (the tat at the top could do with replacing soon) and got soaked in the process. Lots of blackberries at the bottom. Took up three and a half hours to the top.

with Phil
pezzerrr 27/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/May/11 Lead O/S
RachelP 15/May/11 2nd

1st pitch amazing, 2nd pitch pulled on gear, 3rd pitch too tired to remember but Andy said he thought it was brilliant...must have been good!

with Andy T
Hidden 11/Apr/11 TR dog
Hidden 08/Apr/11 TR dog
Hidden 26/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Mar/11 AltLd rpt
Harry Kingston ?/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Loved the hanging belay, brilliant!

Aaron Lines ?/Nov/10 AltLd O/S

led p1&3

with frank
Hidden 15/Sep/10 TR β
Hidden 04/Sep/10 TR β
Alasdair88 01/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

led the relatively easy middle pitch. brilliant.

with Raph, sophie
Hidden 01/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/10 TR β
Hidden 29/Aug/10 TR β
Hidden 22/Aug/10 TR O/S
Richard Hall 27/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

No guidebook and a single rope folded in half which was too short. EPIC.

with Keith Bradbury
Hidden 08/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
KRB 30/Jun/10 Lead rpt

A good route to test the repair of my broken bones and ligaments. Had to do it over 2 days as we ran out of time to pick Ollie up from school after the 2nd pitch. A brilliant route with exposure and hanging belays ideal for anyone wanting to take their first steps into adventure.

with Martin Bridges
richiebongo 18/Jun/10 Lead O/S
AlexRenshaw 09/May/10 Lead
with Ted Lister, Thomas Renshaw
ericinbristol 20/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

Fantastic, unusual and classic. 5c, 5b, 5b. I led P2.

with Barry Durston
Ed Babs 04/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Superb. We combined pitches 2 + 3 in 1 big pitch - it may be better to take the belay in between to avoid getting pumped out of your mind some distance from your last gear on the final left trending ramp! We got down in two abs - from in situ gear on the tree at the top and from the double bolt belay ledge at the end of pitch 1.

with Mike Hawkins
Bristoldave 02/Mar/10 AltLd O/S

Led P1&3

with Harry
Hidden 02/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Phil PBC ??/2010 -
Hidden 02/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Jul/09 2nd
Chubbard 18/Jul/09 Lead O/S

Brilliant. 4 stars. Combined p2 and p3.

JimR 18/Jul/09 -
with Charles H
just one more 28/May/09 Lead
with tim b
Hidden 21/May/09 AltLd
billb ?/May/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
lukehodson 07/Dec/08 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 2. Great route, wild exposure on the top pitch

with Howard
Hidden 29/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Paz 29/Aug/08 AltLd rpt

Lead P1 (4 runners) & P3 (~11 runners)

with WG
Spacetourist ??/2008 AltLd O/S

Finished just into the dark with Rosea. Awesome.

with Rosea
Hidden 21/Jun/07 AltLd rpt
Oli 01/Feb/07 Lead O/S

First Pitch only the abbed off.

with Fred
haydng ??/2007 AltLd O/S
with Rob
waltersp ?/Dec/06 2nd O/S
with Nick
simonf ?/Nov/06 AltLd dog

Lead 2nd pitch; brief rest before the mantle shelf

with Simon + Chris
Paz 09/Sep/06 AltLd rpt

Lead P3 for the second time, just safe steady runout E3 climbing.

with MH
KRB 13/Jul/06 Lead rpt

Washed away in a torrential downpour in 2003. Revisited for the last climb of the day one evening after work. Finished in virtual darkness at 10:30pm.

with Chris Bridges
Bux 12/Jul/06 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch.

with Nick
Paz 04/Mar/06 AltLd rpt

Lead P2, which is probably why I think of this as easy E3 - I've only lead the top pitch once.

with RJ
Jo McCready ??/2006 -
Bern ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 AltLd
Paz 31/May/05 AltLd rpt
with TS
Tim Steward 31/May/05 AltLd
with James Parrot
joe_alexander 31/Jan/05 2nd dog
with Nick Gillette
phsharpy ??/2005 Lead rpt
with Simon Kimber
Urgles ?/Jul/04 Lead O/S
with Jack G
Paz 19/May/04 AltLd rpt

lead P2.

with AS
Hidden 14/Apr/04 2nd O/S
cornishben ??/2004 2nd O/S
with Mike Raine
dan gibson ??/2004 -
with anthony prior
Hidden ??/2004 -
Hidden ??/2004 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Nov/03 Lead O/S
_m.cox_ ?/Aug/03 Lead O/S
with Adam Mulholland
Paz 02/Jul/03 AltLd O/S

Lead P1 and P3 (waited at the ramp for a heavy shower to pass).

with TC
Hidden 11/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/01 Lead rpt
Hidden 26/Aug/00 AltLd O/S
Billg ?/Jul/00 Lead O/S
with Harry
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
migs493 28/Mar/99 AltLd O/S

Lead first & third pitch

guy xavier percival ??/1999 -
serby ??/1999 Lead
DavidBarraclough ??/1999 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 12/Sep/96 AltLd
with Al Willoner
Hidden ??/1996 Solo
lowersharpnose 07/Jul/94 Lead O/S

I lead all the pitches and Adam climbed in his pants.

with Adam
GAtkins 29/Jun/94 Lead O/S
chris sm 29/Mar/94 2nd dnf
Hidden 20/Mar/93 Lead
AndySL ??/1993 2nd O/S
with Tim
Roget 13/Nov/92 Lead O/S
with mark turnbull
Pete Ogden ??/1990 AltLd
with Mark Worsley
charlesmfrench 01/Oct/89 AltLd O/S


with Andy Tallent
Hidden 24/Sep/89 Lead
Hidden ??/1989 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1989 -
frank ramsay ?/Jul/88 Solo

Soloed having lead it the year before. Wobbly hold on the last move!

Hidden 11/Apr/88 AltLd O/S
DDDD ??/1987 -
bullybones ??/1987 Lead
William Robertson ??/1986 Lead O/S
with Emily
Johnny Baker ??/1986 -
with Pete Ollis
Ena ?/Jun/85 Lead dnf


with Mark Courtiour
andy gittins ??/1983 -
stp 20/Apr/82 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/81 AltLd O/S
Steve Bell ??/1981 -
Hidden ??/1981 -
barny ??/1981 AltLd O/S

pete lead p1, I did P2/3 - we waltzed up it, both very fit, fantastic position on the final pitch :-)

with Pete Sutton
Chris Terrey ?/Jun/80 2nd dnf
with Brian Wyvill
steve L 15/Sep/79 Lead
with Haydn Griffiths
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High E4
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