Access to Malham is a privilege and subject to the following climbers access agreement. Please ensure you read, understand and follow these points to ensure continued good relations with the Parish Council, other landowners, farmers and local residents
By following these guidelines, you'll be making sure the currently good relations with the village and Parish Council are maintained for the future.
Respect the Rock: How to climb at Malham Cove - YouTube
Dates: 1 March to 30 September
Reason: Nesting Birds
Update: The Peregrine restriction for 2023 has been lifted (as of 23rd May) due to nest failure.
Peregrine restriction: Malham is an important and very visible site for nesting peregrines. The restriction when in force applies to all the routes on the Terrace Wall and the Carnage Area of the Right Wing from 1st March-31st July. However, the routes to the right of Scorpio (which starts as for Carnage Left Hand) are unrestricted.
The bolted sport routes on the right side of Upper Central Wall are unaffected except for those that breach the main overhang. On-site notices will also be in place and RSPB volunteers will monitor the birds throughout the nesting period.
House martins also frequently nest between May-September, often on the popular hard sport routes (frequently affecting Raindogs, Seventh Aardvark, Bat Route and others). Please avoid any routes with nests on or near to avoid damaging the nests, until the young have fledged. It will be obvious which nests are being used due to parents flying in and out. Whilst routes can be climbed once the young have fledged, they can return to the nest site to roost, so be careful not to damage the nests.
Rockfax Description
After a rattly initial pitch the second leaves the cave and pulls on to the exposed headwall of The Terrace.1) 5c, 25m. Climb up rightwards passing a peg to a tree. Traverse left to a ledge and take the ramp and crack above to a cave and tree.2) 6a, 20m. Use the tree to access the break under the roof and traverse left to the arete. Move over the roof above to a flake and climb it to a good slot. Move left to Limehill and finish up it. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Creaky at the start, exciting on the second pitch. Low in the grade but a formidable undertaking nevertheless. Start 5 metres left of Carnage and just to the left of the rose bush.
1. 26m 5c Climb up then right to a peg runner. Follow holds up to the tree on Carnage. Traverse left to a ledge and climb a ramp/crack to the tree. Belay.
2. 19m 6a Pull off the tree to beneath the roof. Traverse the break to the left, into a corner and out to an arete. Pull up into a thin flake crack above the roof and gain a good slot at its top. Swing left to the flakes of Limehill, pull into its scoop and go right to the tree.
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Grade: E5 6b ***
(Malham Cove)