Rockfax Description
Some say it's harder than Right Wall, but at least it has gear! The final wall sees many wobbling leaders as arms start to fade fast. Start on large holds just left of Cenotaph Corner, passing a (sometimes) in-situ thread. Long moves (peg) lead to an easier traverse left to join Left Wall. Sprint up the right-hand crack-line and stuff it full of gear. Take a deep breath, step left and finish boldly up the wall. An alternative finish is to follow the crack-line up rightwards, past a flat hold, to the top - about the same grade. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Top Five Pass E4's, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Very good routes in the UK, North Wales Rock Graded List, Good E4s, Trad climbs for sport climbers, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, 2015 Objectives, Jacobs Half Term Goals, Ultimate E4 ticklist.

Tom Livingstone 02/Nov 2nd rpt

Into Left Wall Direct

with Angus Kille, Tim Neill
GPN 11/Oct Lead O/S
with Annette
Hidden 10/Oct Lead O/S
shark 10/Oct 2nd
with Nick Conway
dswansonlow 02/Oct 2nd rpt

Again but left finish - my favorite way

with James Docherty
robpartridge 27/Sep 2nd
Ginger McGrath 27/Sep Lead O/S

every singe move is 3 stars!

with rob
Timothy Miller 19/Sep Lead O/S


with Karen McIntyre
Ian craigie 11/Sep Lead
with James Taylor
papashango 10/Sep Lead rpt
with PMW
Misha 11/Jul Lead dog

Drizzle turned to rain, the westerly wind blowing it up the Pass in waves. The route stayed mostly dry though, or at least dry enough - apart from, predictably, the crux flat tie, which was sopping wet! Pretty cruisey up to there despite the conditions, so pleased with that. Frantic attempts to dry and chalk the hold at full stretch didn't really work. Tried to pull up on it, didn't have enough grip to stay on, tried to reverse and slipped off. Back up, the diagonal crimp below the flattie was soaking so gave up and finished up the left hand version, which was ok as the holds were more positive. Will have to come back when it's dry! There's a good rest every other move or so ;-)

with Nic
Hidden 10/Jul Lead O/S
max_dickens 24/Jun 2nd
bede.west 23/Jun 2nd O/S

Pleased to not fall off this even though only seconded sustained!

harry_lewis 16/Jun Lead dog
willsm11 16/Jun Lead O/S
with Ben Talbot
Gus 06/Jun 2nd
with michaela tracey
wi11 24/May Lead dnf

Finished up left wall. Too cold

with Dave L
Owain Llewelyn 23/May Lead
with Gareth E
Dave Turnbull, BMC 15/May 2nd rpt
with Max (France)
Tom Livingstone 13/May Lead rpt
with Marianne Van Der Steen
guy757 23/Apr 2nd
Ewan Russell 21/Apr 2nd O/S
with Brad
breed 21/Apr Lead O/S
pete johnson 06/Apr Lead rpt
with Chris Parkin
kingholmesy ??/2015 Lead dog

One fall going left from the spike at the top. Pretty sure I would have pissed it if I wasn't so tired from RW.

with Colin
phil64 ??/2015 -
Matt Cooke 12/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Right hand finish

with Sam Taylor
markalmack 13/Sep/14 Lead RP

Brilliant. Enjoyed this more than right wall. Harder too.

with Richard
wolf.leeb 05/Sep/14 2nd O/S

def a harder route than right wall, and just as good.

with nic
mynyddresident 05/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Great moves, prob my best onsight effort . Left hand finish.

with wolf
Hidden 03/Sep/14 Lead
Hidden 03/Sep/14 Lead O/S
malx ?/Sep/14 Lead O/S
morganator 08/Aug/14 Lead

Quality. Finished right- tricky

with Dan Arkle
soph 04/Aug/14 2nd
with Steve Franklin
Ed morris 30/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Brilliant for so many reasons

with Jerry Handren
AndrewJamesCherry 27/Jul/14 2nd O/S

No real off-able moves, but a few lunges to thankfully good holds, and a little bit of pump control near the top. Solid lead from JT!

jamestaylor92 27/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Andrew Cherry
Callum_Johnson 21/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Uisdean
Uisdean hawthorn 21/Jul/14 2nd
drysori 20/Jul/14 Lead O/S
mike lawrence? 11/Jul/14 2nd

desperate move to get established into crack, must be an easier way,

with FatRob
Dan Vaj 10/Jul/14 2nd dog
with Khalid, James Machaffie
khalidq 10/Jul/14 2nd dog

Long and hard but good moves all the way.

with James Mchaffie, Dan Vajzovic
Rachel Slater 01/Jul/14 2nd rpt

Left hand finish this time which felt quite a bit easier, think i struggled with the long reach on the right hand when I lead it.

James Oswald 01/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Fantastic route. Done at just the right time on a brilliant day at the cromlech with John Dunne and others... The lower wall is a little bold going up to the thread though there are two good offset wires which protect the long reach (which seemed fine if you commit). After this, easy moves less top the ledge where there's a great no hands rest.. the section up to left wall is fine. After placing gear in left I was nervous and placed too much gear on the rightward traverse and was stupidly pumped when I got to the jug before the leftward finish. So pumped I thought that I had no chance. After lacing the break with reasonable gear (I struggled to get some of out to seat as well as I wanted), I was boxed but managed a rest using a crafty heel on the loose looking flakes out right. The top wall was brilliant, never desperate (the hardest section felt like out was on the traverse). Technical and fantastic, it was a great feeling getting the gear in after the runout. Totally amazing route and a brilliant second e4.

theotherpetehill 29/Jun/14 2nd β
with Ross McKerchar
quiffhanger 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S

V fun. Almost as good as Right Wall and a lot better protected. Slabbier but thinner. Didn't even have a guidebook description so fun route finding. Went for the left hand finish.

Luxulyan 24/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Tom Murrell
Apharri 23/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Jim Gayler
irish paul 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Ally Baba 20/Jun/14 Lead

Mega route. A lot more gear and holds than there looks.Took the left hand exit.

with Gav Swinton
Dan724 16/Jun/14 Lead RP

Seconded it over 2 years ago and found it desperate. Got on it today and kept waiting for the hard bit that never came. Got loads of gear in, found loads of rests and thoroughly enjoyed it. One of my favourite climbing moments so far.

with Freya Kiwi, James Williams
anguskille 16/Jun/14 Lead O/S

interesting sustained climbing, winds around a bit but plenty of gear. well worth the 3 stars

Hidden 15/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Rachel Slater 17/May/14 Lead O/S

Yay, happy to do this one. Right hand finish.

with James Moneypenny
samwillo 14/Apr/14 Lead

Finished in the pitch black, thankfully had head torch

with The Bear
oliverpcain ??/2014 Lead
Hidden ??/2014 -
Dan-Cheetham ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 -
mileshill540 ??/2014 Lead
dswansonlow 03/Sep/13 2nd rpt

Did it in the dark with no torch...Went right at the top this time, which actually felt a little easier than the leftward finish.

shed_hed 03/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Took Redhead's finish. Awesome! Felt really steady. Finished as the sun was setting which made picking out footholds near the top tricky. Couldn't work out how to go left at the spike so went straight up!

brices 30/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Found the bottom bold then the rest was engaging face climbing, nearly pumped out at the top good buzz, right hand finnish

Adam Booth 08/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Awesome, wanted to do this for ages. Bit anxious as I fell off Katana a few weeks ago and Flakey Wall last week, so I thought I was doomed on E4s... But this felt fine!

Hidden 02/Aug/13 Lead O/S
nige 27/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with ewan mccallum
Julian Cooper 22/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Ben Steel
Hidden 08/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Dave Parton 07/Jul/13 Lead
with Adam Ellwood
dswansonlow 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S

OOH YES!! What a route! Left hand finish. I only just managed it by the smallest amount. Such a good feeling to get on this when it was only just possible for me.

Speeddemonsi 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Daniel Heath 20/Jun/13 Lead β

Beautiful climbing, just enjoyed the moves with sustained interest all the way. Tricky move after the peg. Good, spaced gear. Lots of resting places. Gave me confidence for Right Wall.

with Hayden Richards
Hidden 20/Jun/13 Lead O/S
khawk 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with DT
Hidden 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Ed Booth 05/Jun/13 Lead rpt

Fell off this right at the top years ago. Felt nice today. LH finish

with Anna Pugh
Sardien 02/Jun/13 2nd dnf

Knackered after left wall. Will save the rest for a day that I can give it what it deserves

with Helena Robinson
AJM 01/Jun/13 Lead dog

Foot popped with hands and feet set up for the long final move to the flat hold. Pleased with the attempt, climbed well and pushed hard, but sometimes you don't get lucky. Brilliant climb.

Tubs 01/Jun/13 2nd dog

Fell off right at the top. Not for midgets so I went up the Redhead finish in the end. The lead is still some way off.

with AJM
piken 29/May/13 Lead O/S
with Andy
mikeshewring 26/May/13 Lead β
Hidden 26/May/13 Lead O/S
tim newton 25/May/13 Lead O/S
Misha 25/May/13 2nd O/S
ejected ??/2013 Lead O/S
Ed Babs 08/Sep/12 Lead β

Belayed Iain on it earlier in the week. LH finish.

Stone Muppet 07/Sep/12 Lead dog

Damn damn damn! Fell from the last move before the spike, put too much gear in. But what amazing climbing, especially the lower wall :-)

with tl
Hidden 06/Sep/12 Lead O/S
owain86 27/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Mega! What an awesome pitch of climbing, sustained sections of climbing with some big run-outs and some tricky bits!

with Charlie
willoates 23/May/12 Lead O/S

cant believe it felt so easy! i was expecting an elbows flapping explosion from the crag! not even pumped. Right Wall here we come!!

with Dave Evans
dj_brigham05 14/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Owain Llewelyn 30/Mar/12 Lead

LH finish this time.

with Doddy
dan ely 29/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with dan
Dan724 29/Mar/12 2nd O/S

Props to Dan Ely for casually leading this one. A scarey belay never having used half ropes before!

with Dan Ely
vertically_challenged 27/Mar/12 2nd dog

think it was right hand finish. fell twice near the top where the crack gets real thin. amazing route, cant wait to lead it!

Liam FLeming 27/Mar/12 -
sam820 24/Mar/12 2nd
with Rich
jacobjacob 22/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Quite pumpy and slightly off balance at the top, harder climbing than Right Wall but with better gear.

Luke Brooks 15/Mar/12 Lead

Right hand finish this time.

with Konrad Doyle
Hidden ??/2012 Lead
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
alice fuller ??/2012 2nd dog
with woj
Hidden 01/Oct/11 Lead
Luke Brooks 02/Sep/11 Lead

LH (original) finish

with Glyn Hudson
Glyn 02/Sep/11 2nd O/S
with Luke
Hidden 31/Aug/11 Lead
Tom Livingstone 17/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Good gear and interesting features! 14 runners in all. Sweet as!

miastacey 09/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Not too bad if your stamina is good. Did left hand finish as way right looked wet. Would recommend this as the move left has a couple of good crimps that you can use instead of stretching and it is easy to top out after that. The gear is good in the crack so it doesn't feel scary.

with Ben Heason
Dan Mckinlay ?/Aug/11 Lead rpt
Liam FLeming 25/Jul/11 -
with luke brooks
Luke Brooks 25/Jul/11 2nd

RH finish

with Liam
Adam Lincoln 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Meg
richiebongo 13/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Jon Didymus
AdrianP 01/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Olli
halfmanhalfbiscuit ?/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Funny how you wait so long for some of these routes. As good as True Grip!

zero six ?/Jul/11 Lead O/S
markalmack 25/Jun/11 Lead dog

was scared and got pumped at about 5m off the ground. made it to about 5m off the top before taking some air time. apologies to my belayer (about an hour)

with james marjot, Andy hall
Hidden 14/Jun/11 2nd
Owain Llewelyn 04/Jun/11 Lead
with Neil
masa-alpin 04/Jun/11 Lead dog

I fell off a couple of times at the crux (hard for the short), then managed to top out at last, though it required an absolutely top effort at my limit. Though failed to onsight it, it was one of my best rock-climbing experiences. Supreme!

with Ed P
Dangerous Dave 02/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Wild Beast
Russell Birkett 02/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Murdoch J
eddy-on-the-rocks 16/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Super-duper amazing awesomeness. The crux of the route is getting the beans to start it.

with Rich
Hidden 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
GeoffG ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
centurion05 ??/2011 -
phil64 ??/2011 -
david morse 12/Oct/10 2nd β


with Glyn
Glyn 12/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Amazing. Enjoyed every move. Finished left, not as bold as expected

centurion05 02/Oct/10 2nd O/S
with Stu Harth
centurion05 09/Sep/10 Lead O/S

belayed clipper on it then lead it straight afterwards, so a flash ascent. awesome sustained climbing with a great finish. Took left finish

Hidden 27/Jul/10 Lead dog
Hidden 02/Jul/10 Lead O/S
barni 24/Jun/10 Lead rpt

finished off right this time

with luke
smallerrich 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Tis Crackalackin

with Sam C, Will Nicholls
scorky345 19/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Rich Cannel
phil64 17/Jun/10 2nd

awesome lead rachie

farmus21 13/Jun/10 Lead

Fantastic. Great gear, great moves, great position. Doesn't get much better.

with Sam Radcliffe
samrad 02/Jun/10 Lead O/S

ace route! bomber gear and great face climbing!

with james G
Lawrie Brand 02/Jun/10 2nd O/S

Winger of quality from John right at the top. Great pitch, hard 6a going right at the top?

with John Mccune
Hidden 02/Jun/10 2nd O/S
hervenuttall ?/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with rich cannell
SiW 31/May/10 Lead O/S
with Bri
Brian Rodgers 31/May/10 2nd
with SimonW
Hidden 31/May/10 Lead
Mike Goldthorp 16/Apr/10 Lead O/S

awesome! wicked face climbing on cool features. last couple of moves feel hard when your pumped but just have it!

soph 01/Jan/10 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 2nd
jamesturnbull ??/2010 Lead
with alex hughes
Howard Lawledge ??/2010 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2010 Lead

Left Hand Finish

with Al Leary
Alex Mason 08/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Phoenomenal. Continually interesting with the crux right at the top. Climbed with gusto.

with Nick Rabb
barni 05/Oct/09 Lead O/S

finieshed off left

Liam FLeming 05/Oct/09 2nd
with barni
Jus 23/Sep/09 Lead O/S

With direct finish. Amazing.

Hidden 14/Sep/09 Lead O/S
buzby78 25/Jul/09 AltLd O/S


with Alan Cassidy
Hidden 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S
AdrianP ?/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Olli
Oli 16/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Awesome. Felt really steady.

Pete Graham 02/May/09 Lead O/S
with Jamie
dan gibson 24/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with john nuttal
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
lukehunt 19/Sep/08 Lead O/S

Brilliant moves and bomber gear.

with Jon Stokes
Hidden ?/Sep/08 2nd
Hidden ?/Jul/08 -
gregoritos 15/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with james
Stig 15/Jun/08 2nd O/S
with Greg
ksjs 31/May/08 Lead O/S

a classic that lives up to its name: a brilliant route. done with left finish.

with geraldine
alaan 25/May/08 Lead O/S

Gale force winds made for a very exciting lead!

with Matt
Brown 14/May/08 2nd O/S
with Various International meet
datoon 05/May/08 Lead

Fell from the top crux twice, managed to get it in the end :)

with Richard Toon
mr mills ??/2008 Lead O/S

a contender for one of the best single pitch climbing !

with ioan d
Will1 ??/2008 -
Rob Pitt ??/2008 -
tuftynick ??/2008 -
jeffmcd56 ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Rob
Hidden 06/Oct/07 Lead O/S
French Erick 15/Sep/07 2nd


with Andy Sharpe
IOAN D 09/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with gareth
Ram MkiV 08/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with reeve
Hidden 29/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Ed Booth 29/Jul/07 Lead

1 nice winger from the crux, got back on after a rest and did it, nice one!

mgeek 07/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Tony Stone
Hidden 04/May/07 Lead rpt
Toby Dunn 04/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Nick Verney
middlevern 04/Apr/07 2nd O/S
ali_robb ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Adam Ellwood 15/Jul/06 Lead O/S


with Dave Evans
feilx 11/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/06 2nd
Boy ??/2006 -
jim robertson ??/2006 -
Bern ??/2006 -
Hidden 11/Jun/05 Lead O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
JulesV ??/2005 Lead O/S
nicholas Barrowclough 16/Aug/04 Lead

One of the best single pitches I have climbed anywhere

with Mike Doyle
Hidden 23/May/04 Lead O/S
paul m hadley ??/2004 Lead
paul m hadley ??/2004 Lead
DubyaJamesDubya 24/Aug/03 Lead O/S

Great day, great weekend. Paul Collis 2nd

with Paul Collis
Mark Riley ?/May/03 Lead
with Dave Thomas
lx ?/Apr/03 Lead
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
shark 29/Sep/01 2nd
with Paul Reeve
andyblain ?/Jul/01 Lead dog

took massive fall reaching the spike, reclimbed after fall with a rest

Hidden ??/2001 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 Lead dog
DJonsight ??/2000 -
Hidden 15/May/99 2nd
Shaved Atom ??/1999 Lead O/S


Si Clapham ??/1998 2nd
with Alun Richardson
ellis ?/Jul/97 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 11/Apr/97 2nd
with Muir Morton
Ched ??/1997 Lead dog

1 fall - Couldn't get thin tape over small spike in hole quick enough, got knackered and panicked - paid the price.

with Steve Graham
phardman ??/1997 -
FATBOYFAT ??/1997 Lead O/S
with Joe Mahoney
Hidden 08/Sep/96 Lead O/S
ste_d 01/Sep/96 Lead O/S
with mik
mikedelderfield 18/Aug/96 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Aug/96 Lead O/S
michael burrows 18/Jul/96 Lead rpt
with mark ryan
sadams 23/Jun/96 Lead O/S
with John Boyle
Hidden 08/Jun/96 Lead
Gregory ?/Apr/96 Lead O/S
with andy mcarthy
switch ??/1996 Lead O/S
Colin Edwards 16/Sep/95 2nd
with Steve Cox
Jon Garside ?/Aug/95 Lead O/S

An awesome route.

michael burrows 09/Apr/95 2nd
with phil jones
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
with keefe
keefe ??/1995 -
michael burrows 27/Aug/94 Lead dog

1 pt rest

with steve ward
uphillnow 15/Jun/94 2nd
with Graeme Smith
jfletcher 27/Jun/93 Lead O/S
Roget 10/Jun/93 Lead dog

messed up!

with colin
whispering nic ?/Jun/92 -
with Blaggy
Hidden ?/Jun/92 Lead
Mike Owen 14/May/92 Lead rpt
with Christian
Nigel Coe ??/1992 2nd
with Tim Dunsby, Ray Mardon
mark-abz 29/Aug/91 Lead
with Andy W
Steve Crowe 27/Aug/91 Lead O/S

LH finish 27 Aug 1991 RH finish 1996 with KM

Alan James - UKC and UKH 24/Aug/91 Lead
with Paul Dearden
PaulTanton ?/Jul/91 Lead O/S
Chris Wright 30/May/91 Lead
Dave Douglas 16/Sep/90 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby ?/Sep/90 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jul/90 Lead
andy gittins ??/1990 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1990 Lead
Bruce Kerr 16/Sep/89 Lead
with Rab Young
Hidden 05/Aug/89 Lead dog
phardman 25/Jun/89 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/May/89 Lead
howifeel ??/1989 Lead O/S

Don't fall off the start! Then enjoy

with Alex
ewar woowar ??/1989 Lead
Hidden 07/Aug/88 2nd
robyn1 ??/1988 -
Alan James - UKC and UKH 30/Aug/87 Lead dnf

Took huge fall off flat jug at the top.

Pedro50 15/Aug/87 Lead O/S
with Dave Wark
Gerald Davison ??/1987 2nd O/S
mark mcgowan01 ??/1987 -
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Mike Owen 11/Sep/86 Lead rpt
with Gavin Peat
keefe 23/Aug/86 -
with Alan Wilson
keefe 06/Jul/86 -
with Johnny Adams
shark 15/Jun/86 Lead

Rest point before crux

with Steve Etherington
Bob 08/May/85 Lead O/S

My first clean E4 lead. Did the right hand finish.

with J. Topping
Hidden 08/May/85 2nd
Gezzer ??/1985 2nd O/S
with Andy Towne
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1985 Lead
with Duncan Bond
Hidden ??/1985 Lead
Hidden ??/1985 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1985 -
Hidden ?/Sep/84 Lead O/S
Lone Rider 08/Aug/84 2nd

2 rests - poor show

with Alan Shand
neilh 27/Jul/84 2nd
with kevin glass
Ian Jones ?/Jul/83 Lead O/S
with Geraldine Taylor
Hidden 05/Sep/82 Lead β
Mark Kemball 20/Jul/82 Lead
with Dave Abbey
Hidden 13/Apr/82 Lead
dominic lee ??/1982 -
with Jerry Moffatt
Mike Owen 15/Apr/81 Lead rpt
with Dave Whitlow
Mike Owen 13/May/80 2nd β
with Tom Jones
Hidden ??/1980 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1980 Lead
steve L ??/1977 -
Hidden ??/1973 -
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High E5
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Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 52
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
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High 5c
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Votes cast 51
Votes cast 50
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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