Restricted Access
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 February to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Signed restriction applies to Central and Right-Hand Buttresses.
The Left-Hand Buttress is not restricted, but please only use the descent on the left side of the crag (looking in) and whilst approaching, move quickly and quietly until under the LH Buttress to avoid disturbing the birds.
Please report any observations of nesting ravens on the crag to access@thebmc.co.uk
81m, 3 pitches.
A steep and serious route up the centre of the buttress. Start 10 meters right of Iron Crag Chimney and 5 meters left of the lower of two hollies at a little grassy gully.
1 36 meters (4b).
Climb the grassy gully or the rib on the left until is is possible to move rightwards above the second holly to a slab. Cross this to reach a shattered ledge, level with and right of the triangular overhang.
2 27 meters (4c).
Traverse along the ledge to the right and climb the groove line until it's possible to step right onto a grassy diagonal line. Follow this to the foot of a steep wall.
3 18 meters (4a).
Traverse to the right, round the corner of the buttress and climb leftwards to the top.
1 36 meters (4b).
Climb the grassy gully or the rib on the left until is is possible to move rightwards above the second holly to a slab. Cross this to reach a shattered ledge, level with and right of the triangular overhang.
2 27 meters (4c).
Traverse along the ledge to the right and climb the groove line until it's possible to step right onto a grassy diagonal line. Follow this to the foot of a steep wall.
3 18 meters (4a).
Traverse to the right, round the corner of the buttress and climb leftwards to the top.
AR Dolphin, E Hodgson 15/Jul/1951.
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Route of Interest
Troutdale Pinnacle Superdirect
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Black Crag (Borrowdale))