The Baldest* HVS 5a
[rob moving on up the baldest, 2 kb]

Rockfax Description
The parallel thin cracks just left of the slab's most prominent crack, climbed by Pharos, is yet another enjoyable pitch. Start at a smooth slab below the cracks.
22m. Climb up the smooth lower slab to the cracks and follow these all of the way to a double bolt lower-off. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

Photo: rob moving on up the baldest © stvredmond
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This climb is in 320 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

drgrange - TR O/S - 08/Mar/15 with Anna

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Jan/15

jessbinx - 2nd β - 24/Jan/15 with Tom <3

BALD EAGLE - 2nd - 10/Jan/15 with Dave Smith

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 20/Dec/14

wjcdean - TR rpt - 14/Dec/14 with Adam Bird, Rachael Pemberton, Jack Ottaway, Trevers

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Dec/14

Hidden - Lead rpt - 07/Dec/14

JamesRich - Lead O/S - 06/Dec/14 with Sam

steve_gibbs - Lead O/S - 29/Nov/14 with Tommy

Bit bold at the start but exactly enough gear for the rest of the route, felt a nice hard delicate lead
Wendy Watthews - Lead O/S - 24/Nov/14 with arandall

arandall - 2nd O/S - 24/Nov/14 with Wendy Matthews

sgl - Lead - 15/Nov/14 with Susie

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Oct/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Oct/14

Alessandro Tentori - TR O/S - 19/Oct/14 with Kirsten Donovan

Hidden - Lead - 27/Sep/14

hutchay - 2nd rpt - 26/Sep/14 with Levon

Hidden - Lead rpt - 24/Aug/14

Nice climb - should have led it but short on time and bravery.
JamieAyres - TR rpt - 24/Aug/14

gripped01 - Lead - 24/Aug/14 with Dave Tait

Hidden - TR - 20/Aug/14

Done on a loose top rope - happy to lead next time with better boots!
Footiemadhannah - TR - 20/Aug/14

Hidden - Lead - 13/Aug/14

Easty14 - TR - 12/Jul/14

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Jul/14

Poco Loco - Lead rpt - 09/Jul/14 with Becky, Lucy

lucyh - 2nd - 09/Jul/14 with Becky Bagnall, James Pomeroy

Echna - TR rpt - 26/Jun/14 with Rich

Not too bad actually. A good warm up for the E2's (on top rope)
BStar - TR O/S - 23/Jun/14 with Will McLay, Will Dean

Nibblator - TR O/S - 23/Jun/14 with Will Dean, Adam Bird

Nibblator - TR O/S - 21/Jun/14 with Will Dean

wjcdean - TR O/S - 21/Jun/14 with Will McLay

imvarma - 19/Jun/14

BicycleBradley - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/14

Slick - 2nd - 11/Jun/14 with Shunt

flew up, definitely the hardest of the hvs climbs on the slab!
Matthew Martin Wsm - TR rpt - 06/Jun/14 with matt sim

Mayaculpa - 2nd - 06/Jun/14 with Andrew V, Michael H, Mia

Balancy smears. Would be a scary lead!
humptydumpty - 2nd O/S - 13/May/14

felixizzy - Lead O/S - 11/May/14

Tom F Harding - 2nd β - 11/May/14 with Sam Collins

sheelba - Lead O/S - 11/May/14

foot slip on start
nicknicely - 2nd dog - 11/May/14 with felix

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/May/14

Echna - Lead O/S - 05/May/14 with Alex

Hidden - Lead - 16/Apr/14

Dave Thompson - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/14 with Mark Lee

steve phillips - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/14 with jerzy

Hidden - 2nd - 31/Mar/14

quite bold start but positive hold further up
Matthew Martin Wsm - TR - 18/Mar/14 with martin paley

Attempted to lead first time but bottled out. Bold start. More interesting when splits into two thin cracks near the top.
Deary65 - TR O/S - 18/Mar/14

James made it look easy. I took a bit longer....
wilsers - TR O/S - 09/Mar/14 with James Wilson

Hidden - 2nd β - 09/Mar/14

Chazwoz - Lead β - 08/Mar/14 with Toby Stead

clams - Lead - Mar/14 with Doug

bpmclimb - TR rpt - 24/Feb/14 with Shunt

Stanners - 2nd rpt - 22/Feb/14 with Kyle Williamson

Kyle87 - Lead O/S - 22/Feb/14

tp45597 - TR rpt - 16/Feb/14 with shunt

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Jan/14

ChristyCole - Lead O/S - 19/Jan/14 with cameron moyes

Really scary start! Much harder than the other HVS routes at the crag
alastairbegley - Lead O/S - 11/Jan/14 with Neil Morbey

NickSayers - 2014

bpmclimb - TR rpt - 17/Oct/13 with Shunt

stoneback - TR O/S - 15/Oct/13 with Alan

Martin Haworth - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/13 with Andy

Andrew Sloan - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/13 with Martin Haworth

maddy92 - 2nd - 10/Sep/13

Definitely the hardest of the 3 Hvs routes
Webster - 2nd - 10/Sep/13

Hidden - Lead rpt - 26/Aug/13

Jamiet297 - TR O/S - 26/Aug/13 with Ian Lee, Darren Le M

Hidden - TR - 26/Aug/13

Really nice climb. Felt really good on it. My hardest climb to date.
Neil Watson - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/13 with Troedyrhiw

nice crack climbing hardest of the hvs climbs
Matthew Martin Wsm - TR - 10/Aug/13 with marc fenton

Too bold for me to even think about leading this one. Nice climb though.
andrea83 - TR O/S - 19/Jul/13 with Hamish

Hamish777 - TR O/S - 19/Jul/13 with Andrea

Bold start, some nice moves.
The Ivanator - 2nd O/S - 12/Jul/13 with Dave

Hardest of the HVS routes with some tricky gear placements on the lower part
davenev - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/13 with Ivan

D Tempest - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/13 with Liz

Slid off at 3 metres. Started again. Great climb if you want to improve your footwork and much harder than the two other HVS routes on this slab.
Alex Parker - TR - 23/Jun/13 with laura parker

Laura Parker - TR - 23/Jun/13 with Alex Parker

Rock_Monk3y - 2nd O/S - 09/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead - 04/Jun/13

Siyfion - TR rpt - 17/May/13

Hidden - Lead - 28/Apr/13

Slick - 2nd - 08/Apr/13 with Kevin Vans-Colina

petellis - TR O/S - 31/Mar/13 with Sloth

SGD - Lead - 30/Mar/13 with Vicky Holmes

MagnusL - TR O/S - 03/Mar/13 with My mate Paul

thedoctorisin - Lead rpt - 13/Jan/13 with chris scutt, Chris

thedoctorisin - Lead O/S - 08/Jan/13 with chris scutt

chrisscutt - Lead O/S - 08/Jan/13 with oly

Aaron Lines - Lead O/S - 29/Nov/12 with martin

pheotleyr - Lead rpt - 18/Nov/12 with Jana

tp45597 - TR O/S - 11/Nov/12 with niels

Hidden - TR - 11/Nov/12

Pylon King Against Capit@lism - TR rpt - 08/Nov/12 with Mr Shunt

chris687 - Lead - 27/Oct/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Oct/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Oct/12

JonHarvey - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/12 with Jay Jackson

Bold start, side runners to the right help make it more reasonable
Nick Russell - 2nd - 07/Oct/12 with Steve Shenton, Emily

SJS - Lead O/S - 07/Oct/12 with Nick

Hidden - TR - 22/Sep/12

Did it when it started to rain so had to hurry up on it. It was bold especially near the beginning, but wasn't too hard, i think it should be a HVS 4c
zcsharp - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/12 with Jay

Dawlish - 2nd O/S - 07/Sep/12 with leadballoon

Scary start, disco legs, definitely need some good micros to get any early pro
LeadBalloon - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/12 with Kelvin

Stuart William - 2nd O/S - 05/Sep/12 with Matt Ivory

Stanners - Lead rpt - 28/Aug/12 with Kyle Williamson

Hidden - Lead - 28/Aug/12

Didnt cover myself with glory this time, annoying as I've done it before no prob
PaulWatson - TR rpt - 28/Aug/12 with Pete

Siyfion - TR O/S - 11/Aug/12

Slick - 2nd - 22/Jul/12 with Shunt

steve-grigg - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/12

pheotleyr - TR β - 17/Jun/12 with Todd

decided to lead this after top-roping, placed a side-runner on the right after about 5 meters, felt good
pheotleyr - Lead rpt - 17/Jun/12 with Todd

RossT - Lead - 15/Jun/12

Hidden - TR - 09/Jun/12

Hidden - TR - 09/Jun/12

Hidden - Lead - 19/May/12

really nice climb george on foot save fall
Michael Aylen - 2nd O/S - 15/May/12 with George L AI

Hidden - Lead - 21/Apr/12

Dave Ing - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/12 with Todd

TDembrey - 2nd O/S - 07/Apr/12 with Dave

great lead by vicky!
SGD - 2nd - 31/Mar/12 with Vicky Holmes

Stone Muppet - Lead O/S - 18/Mar/12 with ah, jg

luke13 - Lead rpt - 18/Mar/12 with Helen, Hazel

luke13 - Lead rpt - 16/Mar/12 with Paul

paul1234 - 2nd - 16/Mar/12 with luke13

Hidden - TR dog - 10/Mar/12

Fatclimber - TR O/S - 10/Mar/12 with Lee

CraigMcAteer - TR - 26/Feb/12 with rachel hyett

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Feb/12

Finished in the rain, my frist E1,according to my guide book. Nice climb, my first HVS.
CraigMcAteer - Lead - 18/Feb/12 with mark thomas,jap

PAJames - 2012

petecox84 - 2012

chris687 - Lead O/S - 10/Dec/11 with Jo Sumner

Jo sumner - Lead O/S - 10/Dec/11 with Chris Andrews

HVS+, bold start but all there, nice route, i thought more consistent than the others
lithos - Lead - 30/Aug/11 with Pete Bradshaw

Bold start felt a bit thin (not used to smearing on limestone) really good route.
SGD - Lead - 13/Aug/11 with Vicky Holmes

andy dunn - Lead rpt - 22/Jul/11 with Big Ben

Stanley - Lead rpt - 15/Jul/11 with Robster666

Stanners - 2nd rpt - 15/Jul/11 with Phil the van man, Martin Stanfield

I enjoyed this route. The crux is really the first 10m or so until you get good gear. After that it is steady, but still sustained. Felt a grade harder than the other 2 HVS's on the slab.
Poco Loco - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/11 with R. Horler, Bald Eagle

not as good as others, feels inconsistent and brutal.
Aaron Phillips - TR O/S - 09/Jul/11 with my dad

BALD EAGLE - 2nd - 09/Jul/11 with J.Pomeroy, R.Horler

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/11

ian d f - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/11 with Mark

markfromstoke - 2nd - 28/Jun/11 with Ian

Stanley - TR rpt - 26/Jun/11 with Petzl Shunt

Tom Brierley Gore - Solo O/S - 18/Jun/11

exciting start, puzzled as to how my feet weren't slipping off. great route!
Stanners - Lead rpt - 29/May/11 with Martin Stanfield

Becky C - TR O/S - 29/May/11

Stanley - 2nd O/S - 29/May/11 with Robster666

jon_gill1 - Lead O/S - 22/May/11 with Ian Stokes

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 22/May/11

dctarrant2000 - Lead O/S - 22/May/11 with Tom Ball

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/May/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/May/11

R_W_M - 2nd - 15/May/11 with Eleri

Hidden - Lead - 13/May/11

monika paprzycka - 2nd - 13/May/11 with Jeremy Axford

First few metres tricky, but when you remember what you can stand on, the rest of the route follows.
ron244 - Lead O/S - 05/May/11 with Peter Bird

colinkeb - TR dog - 02/May/11

jon bradley - Lead rpt - 27/Apr/11 with Mayur Patel

Radical-G - Lead RP - 26/Apr/11

I loved this route - the best (and hardest) of the 3 HVS routes on this slab.
Monk - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/11 with Mullermn

Good climb. Either hard HVS 5a or easy E1 5a. The moves are consistent 5a, but they are very consistent from start to finish with few rests.
mullermn - 2nd O/S - 02/Apr/11 with Monkey

Hidden - 2nd - 31/Mar/11

Start would have felt bold on lead.
Chris Sansum - 2nd O/S - 13/Mar/11 with Gary Lewin

i could imagine there would be a tough mental game over that first section for some people as the first placement is rather high off the ground.
j miller - 13/Mar/11

Steady footwork needed until first high protection
leigh - Lead rpt - 09/Mar/11 with James

Lovely climb, felt really focused for the first hard slab bit until first nut went in, good fun.
puppythedog - Lead β - 09/Mar/11 with leigh

Slick - 06/Mar/11

Check....attempted E2 and failed so moved across onto this climb
kelliroberts3 - Lead - Mar/11

Stanners - TR rpt - 26/Feb/11 with Shunt

nick hawkins - Lead - 02/Feb/11 with peter

halfwaythere - 2nd - 02/Feb/11 with nick hawkins

Stanners - TR O/S - 18/Jan/11 with Shunt

Mikey1988 - Lead O/S - 2011 with j miller

Hidden - TR O/S - 2011

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2011

Chazwoz - Lead dog - 2011 with james austrums

Brillant route. Little thin at the start but good climbing.
Helnorris - 2nd - 13/Dec/10 with Robert Duerr, Steve Redmond

Bobling - 2nd - 12/Dec/10 with Helen, sredmond

its a brave start but the climbing is excellent. Glad i gave it ago. the pro is a lot better than what it seems like from the floor. HVS 5a is a fair grade. just looks more serious from the floor
stvredmond - Lead - 12/Dec/10 with Helen Norris, Robert Duerr

Two guys just finishing up let me top rope - thanks for that, really nice route, fingery and needing concentration.
Phil Layton - TR O/S - 31/Oct/10

Ollie Bridges - Lead - 18/Oct/10

kenneM - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/10 with Steve Marner

Good now I have done it before it felt easy
Quarryboy - Lead rpt - 26/Sep/10 with Jack Treble, David Bradbrook

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Sep/10

Hidden - Lead - 02/Sep/10

kyle - Lead O/S - Sep/10

kyle - Lead O/S - Sep/10

Hidden - TR O/S - 30/Aug/10

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 30/Aug/10 with Clare

Hidden - TR dog - 30/Aug/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/10

Gibbo - 2nd O/S - 15/Aug/10 with Tom Gibbison

Dr Caterpillar - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/10 with Paula

thomasadixon - 2nd rpt - 02/Aug/10 with Becca

Very, very scary at the start, no gear until for first 6/7m maybe? Twin cracks at the top were much more enjoyable! Wished it carried on higher! E1
BeccaSnowden - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/10 with Tom

andy dunn - Lead rpt - 08/Jul/10 with Big Ben

benjaminevans - 2nd O/S - 08/Jul/10 with Wall Monkey

Rhys Jones - Lead - 17/Jun/10

Hidden - AltLd - 04/Jun/10

on shunt. probably worth E1 but only 5a
Pylon King Against Capit@lism - Solo rpt - 28/May/10 with Mr Shunt

Still think this is E1
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 28/May/10 with Clare

Too hot and lazy to lead it. Good on TR tho. Pity it's not futher from the jugs next door...
Alan100 - TR - 23/May/10

TimPerkin - Lead O/S - 20/May/10 with Dave Gale

Pete.ent - Lead β - 15/May/10 with 7om

Another good top rope climb, not ready to lead this one yet!
Mendip Marty - TR dog - 09/May/10 with Helen McCulloch

7om - Lead O/S - 02/May/10 with Pete Entwistle

yes my first E1 after 2 goes on top rope over 4 months ago I went there today and did it without hesitation great route
Quarryboy - Lead RP - 24/Apr/10 with David Bradbrook

simeclimb68 - Lead rpt - 17/Apr/10

Hidden - Lead - 06/Apr/10

Danos - 2nd - 05/Apr/10 with Rich

fishinwater - 2nd - 27/Mar/10 with Bald eagle

T ny - Lead - 2010

T ny - 2010

Bit harder, bit bolder and poorer protection than Pickpocket: E1
Jon Didymus - Lead rpt - 08/Oct/09 with Peet

Good route its definatly E1 5b (not HVS 5a)
Quarryboy - TR RP - 20/Sep/09 with David Bradbrook

Hidden - Lead RP - 18/Aug/09

andy dunn - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/09 with Alan

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Jul/09

thewbert - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/09 with Vallance

bobumf - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/09 with Alan Howells

Sarah Everitt - TR O/S - 25/May/09 with Andy White

Turbo - 2nd O/S - 21/May/09 with matt

harder than other HVS's
evhall - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/09 with Fletch

deklan - 2nd - 05/Apr/09 with luke

luke13 - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/09 with Dec

SteWatkins - Lead - Mar/09

kev_george - TR O/S - 10/Jan/09 with Ali Dixon

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jan/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2009

misplaced - TR O/S - Dec/08 with paul lucas

Hidden - Lead - Sep/08

Hidden - TR O/S - 25/Aug/08

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 23/Aug/08 with Clare

Oooh the shame. Good climbing but would be a bold lead.
Siderunner - TR - 02/Aug/08 with Kirsten

Hidden - Lead - 26/Jul/08

leigh - 2nd O/S - 26/Jul/08 with Ed

No Pro at the start and a bit limitted thereafter. Good bolts at the top. We left a rope in place from the ab off previous climb. 5a may be overstating it but very sustained and testing. HVS for lack of pro I presume
PaulWatson - TR O/S - 01/Jul/08 with Dan

poor protection on start, but once at about 5m lots of place for pro. a really nice slab climb
diggers - Lead - 22/Jun/08 with Cheese

Hidden - Lead - 20/May/08

I'm sure there was a good cam low down that's gone now, makes the start a bit bolder.
thomasadixon - Lead rpt - 14/May/08 with Matt Frank

ShaneHoubart - Lead O/S - May/08

tcn_2002 - Lead - 15/Apr/08

mattf77 - Lead - 17/Feb/08 with andy pollard

Hidden - TR - 15/Oct/07

upontop - Lead O/S - Jul/07 with Chris

Pleasing parallel cracked slab
jon thompson27 - Jul/07 with ben harden

Hidden - Lead dog - 28/Jun/07

Feeling bold - TR - 16/Jun/07 with Egons - Sue

Slab climbing, low in its grade but lots of fun.
deanster01 - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/07 with Mike

Looks bolder than it is, plenty of gear after the beginning.
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/07 with Christian

Hidden - TR - 03/Jun/07

Hidden - TR - 01/May/07

Luke Gilbert - Lead - 2007 with Jim Brooke, Rich Smith

Spacetourist - Lead O/S - 2007 with Ed Heslam

tcn_2002 - Lead - 20/Sep/06

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 12/Aug/06 with Clare

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/06

BruceW - Lead rpt - 30/Apr/06 with Becca

BruceW - Solo rpt - 19/Mar/06

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Mar/06

Tom Last - 2nd - 05/Mar/06 with Matt & Karen

Karen Leads
rotsoscooper - 2nd O/S - 05/Mar/06 with Karen and Tom

BruceW - Solo O/S - 18/Feb/06

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Jan/06

Tamlyn - Lead O/S - Jan/06 with Dave V

oldmanrivers - 2006

Marti999 - Lead - 2006

JPGR - 2nd - Oct/05 with Justin Adams

just one more - 2nd - 22/Jul/05 with tim b

gaz.marshall - Lead O/S - Jul/05

Bold. Some locals say maybe E1.
bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 30/May/05 with Clare

LC - Lead O/S - Apr/05

Fat Tim - Lead β - 04/Feb/05 with PJ

Hidden - Solo rpt - 2005

JamieAyres - 2nd O/S - 09/May/04 with Nick Ingram

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/May/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2004

Pylon King Against Capit@lism - Lead O/S - Nov/03 with Laura

Boxy - Lead O/S - 04/May/03 with Steve

Neil Curtis - Lead dog - 16/Feb/03 with Arthur Austin

Neil Curtis - 2nd - 08/Feb/03 with Glenn Kelly

Paz - Lead O/S - Jan/03 with SN

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2003

rapidrich - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/02 with Katie

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/02

KRB - Solo rpt - 03/Nov/01

Andrew1 - 2nd - 03/Jun/01 with Martin Carter

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/00

Roget - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/00 with jon

Hidden - 2000

alan moore - 2000

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/99

John Southworth - Lead O/S - 20/Feb/99 with Vicky Munn

cliffy - Lead O/S - 1999 with Susanne Svendsen

craig h - Lead rpt - 31/Mar/98 with Janet Hannah

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1998

cornishben - Lead O/S - 1997

mikej - Lead - 08/Sep/96 with Nick Salmon

craig h - Lead O/S - 28/May/96 with Jamie Tompson

chris sm - Lead O/S - 18/Feb/96

Jon Didymus - Lead rpt - 06/Apr/95 with Marcus

Given E1 5b at the time.
Michael Hood - Lead - 22/Jun/94

AndySL - 2nd O/S - 27/Mar/94 with Mark

Jon Didymus - Lead β - 20/Mar/94 with Marcus

Jon Didymus - 2nd O/S - 30/Jan/94 with Rongor

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1994

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/93 with Simon Coles

NeilGriffiths - Lead - 30/Jan/93 with jon didymus

jim_randell - Lead rpt - 10/Sep/92

Mark lead part of Retina Plexus - I followed and finished directly up The Baldest placing no protection.
jim_randell - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/92 with MB

Budge - Lead dog - Jun/92 with Brian Ottewell

bullybones - Lead - 1986

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Total votes cast 171
hard E10 of 65
E10 of 65
easy E121 of 65
hard HVS12 of 65
HVS25 of 65
easy HVS6 of 65
hard VS1 of 65
VS0 of 65
easy VS0 of 65
hard 5b0 of 57
5b0 of 57
easy 5b3 of 57
hard 5a20 of 57
5a28 of 57
easy 5a3 of 57
hard 4c1 of 57
4c1 of 57
easy 4c1 of 57
3 Stars0 of 49
2 Stars24 of 49
1 Star24 of 49
0 Stars1 of 49
Bag of .....0 of 49
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP