New Horizons** E3 5c
[Bristol at its best!, 3 kb]

Rockfax Description
The huge arete on the right-hand side of the lower wall is a good but slightly bold route. Start 3m to the left of the arete.
1) 5c, 23m. Move up to the base of a small corner and traverse right across the bottom of a grey slab to the arete. Ascend the arete to an overhang, peg. Make a perplexing move through the overhang via a short hanging corner and climb a little way above to a ledge and a belay on the arete.
2) 5c, 22m. Move right and climb a short crack and wall above the stance to a thread (thin sling needed). Move left to the arete and make delicate moves to a peg from where easier climbing up the arete finishes at the apex of the lower wall. © ROCKFAX

R Harrison, A Hall (Unknown Buttress B Annette 1961) 7.8.1977 07/Aug/1977

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs.

Photo: Bristol at its best! © James S
View all 5 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 78 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

Pitch 2
eddy-on-the-rocks - AltLd O/S - 30/May/15 with max

pitch 2. Just like the good old days struggling up a route with jack in the scorching heat at avon. Maybe I would have felt more confident in the gear on lead, but pitch 1 seemed horrifically bold. There used to be a second lower peg which would have made it more reasonable, but just sideways wires seems ridiculously dodgy. Strong lead Jack! Hey ho, with much encouragement from Jack I struggled past the crux and unconfidently set off struggling up the start of pitch 2 on lead. Soon got into it though and thoroughly enjoyed it! psyched!
Stanners - AltLd O/S - 17/Jun/14 with Jack Bradbrook

Great route, a good test of ones overall trad climbing ability, fiddly to place gear which is also hard to spot. Technical moves in various positions where you don't really want to fall off and then the steep grove at the top which requires some quick intuition to do correctly while avoiding pump. Followed up by a slightly easier but in many ways more fun second pitch up the steep arete wall. Apparently there used to be another peg which made the first pitch less bold and as of when I did this there is no sign of it, so someone should probably add another at some point. Possibly high in the grade.
Quarryboy - AltLd O/S - 17/Jun/14 with Rob Stanfield

chris j - 2nd - Mar/14 with Nick Arding

Led P2. Tough going through the roof on the first pitch. The second is easy after the moves off the ledge. Great route.
Alex Winter - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/13 with Nick

Good line, good climbing (above the first loose 10m).
Nick Russell - AltLd rpt - 26/Jul/13 with Alex Winter

gimmer - 2013

jcw - 2013

dan ely - Lead O/S - 13/Oct/12 with Kemics

Redeemed after falling off climbing with Dave. kind of clean...reversed a move back to the belay ledge and the rope had a bit of tension as I stepped down but wasn't really a fall. Heavy rain/hail shower on the belay.
Kemics - 2nd rpt - 13/Oct/12 with Enduro Dan

led second pitch. Had previously seconded the first pitch with Pip but got benighted. Good fun. The crux at the top of pitch 1 is always going to be hard! Retreated a couple of times from the crux at the start of pitch 2. But found a good micro above the end of the crack which helped. Went up the left of the arete at the top. wondered if i was missing better (but harder) climbing on the right face of the arete.
mountain_jay - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/12 with Martin Grenfell

Failed to read the moves at the overhang and fell a couple of times. Peg held, and I had a solid BD 0.75 just above so safe. Once I worked out the move it went pretty easily. The bottom of P1 seemed to have a lot of loose rock and vegetation, but maybe I was off route. Some really nice climbing on the second pitch.
Nick Russell - Lead dog - 17/Jun/12 with Martin

Misha 1st pitch me 2nd. Don't fall off in the 1st 15m! Pressed out o-hang, Misha crimped. Had to take 2 goes at moves off belay to get right sequence. Lovely up the arete.
philhilo - AltLd β - 12/May/12 with misha

Misha - AltLd O/S - 12/May/12 with Phil

First pitch only as got dark
Pippa - Lead O/S - 08/May/12 with Jamie Thornley

got benighted after seconding first pitch! tim chucked a rope down off the top of the slab and we traversed onto it and abbed down m2. Found the crux really tricky. rested a couple of times.
mountain_jay - 2nd - 08/May/12

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/12 with Graham Charman

Graham C - 2nd O/S - 19/Mar/12 with Marti

Kemics - 2nd dog - 11/Dec/11 with Dave

Had to have a rest on p1 then abbed from the belay due to darkness.
Bristoldave - Lead dnf - 10/Dec/11 with Caleb

Hidden - Lead dnf - 26/Oct/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/11

pezzerrr - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/11

AlexRenshaw - Lead - 19/Jul/11 with Ted Lister

Led p1. Really good route, didn't think it was particularly bold (as the guide describes it)
lukehodson - AltLd - 21/May/11 with Duncan

Dunx - AltLd O/S - 21/May/11 with Luke Hodson

Aaron Lines - AltLd O/S - 12/Apr/11 with frank ramsay

Ed Babs - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/10 with tom dixon

Lead second pitch, good route.
thomasadixon - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/10 with Ed Babington

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/10

Found the bottom part of pitch 1 very bold
richiebongo - Lead RP - 2010 with Nick Smith

tom.e - Lead rpt - 17/Sep/09 with Charlie Everett

just one more - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/09 with tim b

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Mar/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Mar/09

Hidden - AltLd - 22/Feb/09

IceMonkey1982 - 14/Sep/08

jfreeman - 2nd - 09/Mar/08 with Nick Gillet

hard route to follow, wicked situation for second pitch
tonanf - Lead β - 12/Jul/07 with james c

Hidden - Lead rpt - 17/Jun/07

haydng - Lead RP - 2007 with Rob

well good route, long way out round
tonanf - AltLd - Sep/06 with burt

LC - AltLd O/S - Mar/06

Marcus - 2006

Marcus - 2006

shark - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/05 with Pete

tom.e - 2nd O/S - 2005

Lead on TC's gear after he backed off the crux.
Paz - AltLd β - 06/Jul/04 with TC

_m.cox_ - Lead O/S - Jul/04 with Jo Stadden

1st and 3rd
simon kimber - AltLd O/S - Mar/04 with Robin Wilmshurst-Smith

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/03

cornishben - 2nd O/S - 2003 with Mike Raine

Swing into a layback in a sensational position - over far too soon
KRB - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/02 with Chris & Martin

John Southworth - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/01 with Jason Parker

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Jan/01

Billg - Lead O/S - 2001

ellis - AltLd O/S - May/00 with Sam Chinnery

Hidden - 2000

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

serby - Lead - 1999

Fell off the crux. Doh.
AndySL - AltLd dog - 1995 with Mark

Took me a while to figure out the crux.
lowersharpnose - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/94 with Crispin

lead P1
mattnuttall - AltLd O/S - 06/Mar/93 with Alan Holden

Roget - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/92 with jon

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1989

E2 5b,5c,5b in 1980 Guide
Pete Nugent - 2nd - 27/Mar/88 with Lionel Edwards

DDDD - 1987

JamieAyres - 2nd dog - Aug/85 with Phil Windall

Mike Owen - 23/Oct/84 with Elaine Owen

Hidden - Lead - 1984

andy gittins - 1983

Did third pitch on another day. Better treated as a separate route and the best of the 3 pitches - 2 stars.
stp - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/82

Steve Bell - 1981

Hidden - Lead - 1981

chris sm - 2nd O/S - 0000 with Andy Gill

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Ropeboy, andy dunn

Total votes cast 59
hard E40 of 21
E40 of 21
easy E40 of 21
hard E32 of 21
E316 of 21
easy E31 of 21
hard E22 of 21
E20 of 21
easy E20 of 21
hard 6a0 of 21
6a0 of 21
easy 6a0 of 21
hard 5c1 of 21
5c19 of 21
easy 5c1 of 21
hard 5b0 of 21
5b0 of 21
easy 5b0 of 21
3 Stars0 of 17
2 Stars15 of 17
1 Star2 of 17
0 Stars0 of 17
Bag of .....0 of 17
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP