Rockfax Description
The huge arete on the right-hand side of the lower wall is a good but slightly bold route. Start 3m to the left of the arete.
1) 5c, 23m. Move up to the base of a small corner and traverse right across the bottom of a grey slab to the arete. Ascend the arete to an overhang, peg. Make a perplexing move through the overhang via a short hanging corner and climb a little way above to a ledge and a belay on the arete.
2) 5c, 22m. Move right and climb a short crack and wall above the stance to a thread (thin sling needed). Move left to the arete and make delicate moves to a peg from where easier climbing up the arete finishes at the apex of the lower wall. © Rockfax

R Harrison, A Hall (Unknown Buttress B Annette 1961) 7.8.1977 07/Aug/1977

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs.

eddy-on-the-rocks 30/May AltLd O/S

Pitch 2

with max
Stanners 17/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

pitch 2. Just like the good old days struggling up a route with jack in the scorching heat at avon. Maybe I would have felt more confident in the gear on lead, but pitch 1 seemed horrifically bold. There used to be a second lower peg which would have made it more reasonable, but just sideways wires seems ridiculously dodgy. Strong lead Jack! Hey ho, with much encouragement from Jack I struggled past the crux and unconfidently set off struggling up the start of pitch 2 on lead. Soon got into it though and thoroughly enjoyed it! psyched!

Quarryboy 17/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Great route, a good test of ones overall trad climbing ability, fiddly to place gear which is also hard to spot. Technical moves in various positions where you don't really want to fall off and then the steep grove at the top which requires some quick intuition to do correctly while avoiding pump. Followed up by a slightly easier but in many ways more fun second pitch up the steep arete wall. Apparently there used to be another peg which made the first pitch less bold and as of when I did this there is no sign of it, so someone should probably add another at some point. Possibly high in the grade.

chris j ?/Mar/14 2nd
with Nick Arding
Alex Winter 26/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Tough going through the roof on the first pitch. The second is easy after the moves off the ledge. Great route.

with Nick
Nick Russell 26/Jul/13 AltLd rpt

Good line, good climbing (above the first loose 10m).

gimmer ??/2013 -
jcw ??/2013 -
dan ely 13/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Kemics
Kemics 13/Oct/12 2nd rpt

Redeemed after falling off climbing with Dave. kind of clean...reversed a move back to the belay ledge and the rope had a bit of tension as I stepped down but wasn't really a fall. Heavy rain/hail shower on the belay.

mountain_jay 05/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

led second pitch. Had previously seconded the first pitch with Pip but got benighted. Good fun. The crux at the top of pitch 1 is always going to be hard! Retreated a couple of times from the crux at the start of pitch 2. But found a good micro above the end of the crack which helped. Went up the left of the arete at the top. wondered if i was missing better (but harder) climbing on the right face of the arete.

Nick Russell 17/Jun/12 Lead dog

Failed to read the moves at the overhang and fell a couple of times. Peg held, and I had a solid BD 0.75 just above so safe. Once I worked out the move it went pretty easily. The bottom of P1 seemed to have a lot of loose rock and vegetation, but maybe I was off route. Some really nice climbing on the second pitch.

with Martin
philhilo 12/May/12 AltLd β

Misha 1st pitch me 2nd. Don't fall off in the 1st 15m! Pressed out o-hang, Misha crimped. Had to take 2 goes at moves off belay to get right sequence. Lovely up the arete.

with misha
Misha 12/May/12 AltLd O/S
with Phil
Pippa 08/May/12 Lead O/S

First pitch only as got dark

mountain_jay 08/May/12 2nd

got benighted after seconding first pitch! tim chucked a rope down off the top of the slab and we traversed onto it and abbed down m2. Found the crux really tricky. rested a couple of times.

Marti999 19/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Graham C 19/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Marti
Kemics 11/Dec/11 2nd dog
with Dave
Bristoldave 10/Dec/11 Lead dnf

Had to have a rest on p1 then abbed from the belay due to darkness.

with Caleb
Hidden 26/Oct/11 Lead dnf
Hidden 09/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
pezzerrr 09/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
AlexRenshaw 19/Jul/11 Lead
with Ted Lister
lukehodson 21/May/11 AltLd

Led p1. Really good route, didn't think it was particularly bold (as the guide describes it)

with Duncan
Dunx 21/May/11 AltLd O/S
Aaron Lines 12/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Ed Babs 28/Aug/10 AltLd O/S


thomasadixon 28/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Lead second pitch, good route.

Hidden 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
richiebongo ??/2010 Lead RP

Found the bottom part of pitch 1 very bold

with Nick Smith
tom.e 17/Sep/09 Lead rpt
with Charlie Everett
just one more 06/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with tim b
Hidden ?/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Mar/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/Mar/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Feb/09 AltLd
IceMonkey1982 14/Sep/08 -
jfreeman 09/Mar/08 2nd
with Nick Gillet
tonanf 12/Jul/07 Lead β

hard route to follow, wicked situation for second pitch

with james c
Hidden 17/Jun/07 Lead rpt
haydng ??/2007 Lead RP
with Rob
tonanf ?/Sep/06 AltLd

well good route, long way out round

with burt
LC ?/Mar/06 AltLd O/S
Marcus ??/2006 -
Marcus ??/2006 -
shark 11/Jun/05 Lead O/S
with Pete
tom.e ??/2005 2nd O/S
Paz 06/Jul/04 AltLd β

Lead on TC's gear after he backed off the crux.

with TC
_m.cox_ ?/Jul/04 Lead O/S
with Jo Stadden
simon kimber ?/Mar/04 AltLd O/S

1st and 3rd

with Robin Wilmshurst-Smith
Hidden 07/Jul/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/03 Lead O/S
cornishben ??/2003 2nd O/S
with Mike Raine
KRB 22/Sep/02 Lead O/S

Swing into a layback in a sensational position - over far too soon

with Chris & Martin
shoulders ?/Jun/02 2nd O/S

Estimated date

with mart
John Southworth 15/Aug/01 AltLd O/S
with Jason Parker
Hidden 20/Jan/01 Lead O/S
Billg ??/2001 Lead O/S
ellis ?/May/00 AltLd O/S
with Sam Chinnery
Hidden ??/2000 -
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
serby ??/1999 Lead
AndySL ??/1995 AltLd dog

Fell off the crux. Doh.

with Mark
lowersharpnose 18/Apr/94 Lead O/S

Took me a while to figure out the crux.

with Crispin
mattnuttall 06/Mar/93 AltLd O/S

lead P1

with Alan Holden
Roget 29/Aug/92 Lead O/S
with jon
Hidden ??/1989 Lead O/S
Pete Nugent 27/Mar/88 2nd

E2 5b,5c,5b in 1980 Guide

with Lionel Edwards
DDDD ??/1987 -
JamieAyres ?/Aug/85 2nd dog
with Phil Windall
Mike Owen 23/Oct/84 -
with Elaine Owen
Hidden ??/1984 Lead
andy gittins ??/1983 -
stp 19/Apr/82 Lead O/S

Did third pitch on another day. Better treated as a separate route and the best of the 3 pitches - 2 stars.

Steve Bell ??/1981 -
Hidden ??/1981 Lead
chris sm ??/0000 2nd O/S
with Andy Gill
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Ropeboy, Hidden, andy dunn
High E4
Mid E4
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High E3
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High E2
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High 6a
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High 5c
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High 5b
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Votes cast 17
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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