The crux (potentially 5b move) moving through the small square cut corner has some loose looking rock - so you can move round the bulge on it's left - but this is only 5a - still pretty run out in places though - so E1 5a
evhall - Lead rpt - 18/Sep/14 with goat
Ollie B - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/14 with D.Foster
Got tempted on to Hocus Pocus by mistake and fell! Back enroute and all fine.
Sophie Nunn - Lead dog - 26/Jul/14 with Richard
breaking a long climbing fast. took a couple of rests but otherwise found it surprisingly ok. other climbers when we got to the top said they thought access was still banned due to winter rockfall. oops.
katherinesydney - 2nd dog - 11/Jul/14 with neil morbey
Hidden - Lead - 29/Jun/14
steve_gibbs - 2nd rpt - 19/May/14 with Joe Innes
yan hawkins - 2nd O/S - 21/Apr/14 with Donald 'Big Boy' Birchall
Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/14
Martin Haworth - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/14 with Andy
Andrew Sloan - 2nd O/S - 14/Mar/14 with Martin Haworth
In a oner. Rope drag made the last pitch feel a little more frantic than it should have. Not as good as M1, but probs worth a star.
Alex Winter - Lead O/S - 04/Mar/14 with Ben Darby
Cheese Monkey - 2nd rpt - 04/Mar/14 with Alex W
kenneM - AltLd - 10/Dec/13
HVS / E1 hard 5a. Massive block has come off from 10 meters up the groove. Still climbable at the same grade, now with a new mantleshelf move.
pheotleyr - Lead RP - 28/Nov/13 with Mike
Looks like a fridge sized block has come off from 10 meters up the ramp. Route now has a new mantleshelf move instead of an overhang ?
Mayaculpa - 2nd - 28/Nov/13 with Peter
eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead O/S - 23/Nov/13 with max
Martas first proper trad climb lol. I really enjoyed it. Would of done M1 but the break was soaking wet
Cheese Monkey - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/13 with Marta
steve_gibbs - 2nd rpt - 18/Jul/13
Better, harder and more run out than M1.
zcsharp - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/13 with Steve Gibbs
Hidden - 2nd - 01/Jun/13
jonbwoy - Jun/13
jonbwoy - Jun/13
steve_gibbs - 2nd O/S - 26/May/13 with Jamie Roberts
jonbwoy - 2013
Very nice, only that horizontal break was full of mud. Dan went on for the 5c clip-up of Motorway Madness at the top, which was a tad too hard for me to 2nd.
pheotleyr - 2nd β - 18/Dec/12 with Dan C
Dan_Carroll - Lead O/S - 18/Dec/12 with pheotleyr
Alex Whitmore - 2nd O/S - 11/Dec/12
Decent route, A little bit run out though
Jack_F - Lead O/S - 11/Dec/12
Led P1, very soft for E1
HarryB - AltLd O/S - 10/Dec/12 with Danish
TDSvejstrup - AltLd O/S - 10/Dec/12 with Harry Bloxham
Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/12
led first pitch, awesome climbing worth 2 stars the route overall i think.
James S - AltLd O/S - 15/Sep/12 with caleb
Harder than it's neighbour m1. Lead the short second pitch, very cool climbing, same it's over so soon.
Kemics - AltLd O/S - 15/Sep/12 with James S
daverichris - Lead RP - 08/Sep/12
Phil Belcher - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/12 with Rich
mikeshewring - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/12
P1 for Adam, P2 for me.
riddle - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/12 with Adam Ryan
adam 24 - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/12
Much easier than M1 - great route, impressive territory for the grade
SGD - 2nd - 09/Jul/12 with phil wilkinson, Jonny WMC
Lead P1; Chris lead P2
simonf - AltLd O/S - 29/May/12 with Chris and Jane
j miller - 2nd O/S - 25/Mar/12
although the conditions greatly improved I still didn't have my head quite in the right place. Great route but personally found it a bit spicy. Hard E1 soft 5b in my opinion but since no one else agrees I'll put it down to having a poor leading head today. Quality short 2nd pitch. Used up nearly all my gear on my pitch and had to use rope around the thread. 2*
Stanners - AltLd O/S - 18/Mar/12 with James Rich, Jack Bradbrook
Good route, first pitch was pretty cool and I managed to find a no hands knee bar about 2/3rds of the way up, crux seemed rather reachy, even for me although maybe I was just climbing quite fast and missed something I was meant to find.
I then led pitch 2 which was short but sweet!
Quarryboy - AltLd O/S - 18/Mar/12 with James Rich, Rob Stanfield
Surprised at the quality of this, especially the top half which was juggy and steep.
JamesRich - 2nd O/S - 18/Mar/12 with Rob stanfield, Jack Bradbrook
Led p1. Nice way to blow out the trad cobwebs...
AJM - AltLd O/S - 11/Mar/12 with Crispin Cooper
Stone Muppet - 2nd O/S - 11/Mar/12 with am
AlexRenshaw - 2nd - 13/Nov/11 with Ted Lister, Thomas Renshaw
Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/11
Ragingpossum - 2nd - 15/Oct/11
Clay C - 2nd rpt - 15/Oct/11 with Will B, Will A
Steady climbing with good,sometimes slightly spaced gear.As good as M1
just one more - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/11
evhall - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/11 with jerzy
Aaron Lines - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/11 with iggy
squicky - 2nd O/S - 01/Oct/11 with Aaron
Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/11
andy dunn - 2nd - 29/Jul/11 with Mike, Darren, J
andy dunn - Lead rpt - 30/Jun/11 with J
Lead both pitches in one
tommytuffa - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/11 with Dave Ing
Both pitches run together.
Dave Ing - 2nd O/S - 13/Jun/11 with Tom
richtea21 - Lead O/S - May/11 with S.Pelly
aipattison - 2nd O/S - 20/Apr/11 with Al Franks
Alasdair88 - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/11 with Alex P
Oli P1 and me P2
Tomar - AltLd rpt - 30/Mar/11
Led first pitch. Went left at the steep bit. So either this is really easy for an E1, or there's an amazing HVS route up this otherwise extreme buttress!
crossdressingrodney - AltLd O/S - 30/Mar/11 with Tomar
Clay C - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/11 with Seb
Gary p1, Chris p2.
Chris Sansum - AltLd O/S - 19/Mar/11 with Gary Lewin
andy dunn - 2nd - 19/Mar/11 with J
Marti999 - Lead O/S - 28/Feb/11 with Mick Ward
Both pitches, nice and long. Thought it was little trickier than M1, particularly the traverse.
Tomar - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/10 with Rafael
tom.e - AltLd rpt - 20/Sep/10 with Charlie Everett
Honestly didn't think any of this was 5b (though I am tall). Also contrary to the guidebook, didn't think any of it was run out (and I am a wuss). A solitary nut placement on the headwall? I had 3 nuts and 2 cams!
Stone Muppet - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/10 with ah
good fun route - better than M1?
Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/10 with tom dixon
thomasadixon - 2nd rpt - 28/Aug/10 with Ed Babington
Hidden - TR O/S - 17/Aug/10
maresia - 2nd O/S - 15/Aug/10 with Mike Kann
enjoyable! lots of fossils
katherinesydney - 2nd O/S - 05/Aug/10 with bobby gilbert
Bobby Gilbert - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/10 with Katherine Sydney
Done as 1 pitch - never difficult - some nice moves all the way up - seemed easier than M1
andy dunn - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/10 with J
Hidden - Lead - 27/Jul/10
loads of fun last half in the rain
brices - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/10
Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/10
Hidden - Lead rpt - 26/May/10
Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/10
alasdair19 - 2010
richiebongo - Lead O/S - 2010 with Nick Smith
maffujones - 2nd O/S - 27/Aug/09 with Jamie T
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/Jul/09
deklan - Lead - 12/Jul/09 with julie jamie
feilx - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/09 with Heather
Jessie Rushbrooke - 2nd - 13/Jun/09 with GF
In 1, with detour into Hocus to fetch some gear. The jammed wire you can see from the ground (not mine, really is jammed. Needs chiselling, or nut keying and hexing.
Paz - Lead rpt - 23/Apr/09 with WG
Really good. Spicy finish!
lukehodson - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/09 with Gary Ryan
Hidden - AltLd rpt - 01/Mar/09
bold but nice and steady
Dr Caterpillar - Lead O/S - 25/Feb/09 with Howard
Hidden - Lead β - 2009
Hidden - Lead O/S - 2009
Chubbard - Lead O/S - 21/Dec/08 with J Robinson
CarolineH - 2nd rpt - 19/Nov/08 with Joe
Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/08
Al Franks - Lead rpt - 10/Sep/08 with Andy Hayes
Alasdair88 - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/08 with Andy Hayes
Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/08
My First E1, felt comfortable all the way :)
Greg Pittam - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/08 with Andrew Bitmead
bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 03/May/08 with Clare
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Mar/08
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/08 with Will
First pitch only. Finished rightwards from the pedestal ledge (as for M1)
JamieAyres - 2nd rpt - 01/Mar/08 with Nick Ingram
CarolineH - 2nd O/S - 13/Feb/08 with Joe
Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Jan/08
Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/07
Hidden - 2nd - 12/Jun/07
went wrong way. oops.
Al Franks - 2nd dog - Jun/07 with James Burrows
Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/May/07
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/May/07
Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/07 with Joe
Went direct up the little groove, and did P2 too.
Paz - Lead rpt - 03/Mar/07 with TE2
pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 29/Oct/06
tonanf - AltLd - Sep/06 with burt
Hidden - Solo β - 12/Jul/06
Sustained but never very difficult
mike kann - Lead O/S - 2006 with Bill Naylor
Bern - 2006
Jo McCready - 2006
mike kann - Lead - 2006 with Bill Naylor
Marcus - 2006
RedFox - 2nd O/S - 2006 with Tom K
Fat Tim - Lead rpt - 03/Sep/05 with Sarah Baker
Bux - Lead O/S - Aug/05 with Rupert Bassadone
Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/05
joe_alexander - 2nd - 14/Mar/05 with Nick Gillette
Paz - Lead O/S - 23/Jan/05 with TS2
tom.e - Lead O/S - 2005
phsharpy - Lead O/S - 2005 with Bethan Davies
IceMonkey1982 - 2005
_m.cox_ - Lead O/S - Aug/04 with Adam Mulholland
The Pylon King - Lead O/S - Jul/04 with Laura
Hidden - Lead β - 04/Jun/04
Mark A Humphries - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/04 with dean howard
Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/04
Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/04
Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/04
simon kimber - Lead O/S - Jan/04
cornishben - AltLd O/S - 2004 with Chris Sims
Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/03
Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/03
John Southworth - Lead O/S - 16/May/02
Mark led first. I led second.
AndySL - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/01 with Mark
KRB - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/00
Hidden - Lead rpt - 24/Apr/00
Rob Kennard - 2000 with John Southworth
Hidden - 2000
Hidden - 2000
Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000
Jim Brooke - 2nd O/S - 13/Aug/98 with Rich
Hidden - Lead - 1998
Hidden - AltLd - 25/Oct/97
chris sm - 2nd dnf - 17/Apr/94 with Dom Goodridge
rob.grafton - Lead - 11/Jul/93 with Bruce
Pete Ogden - Lead - 1990
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Apr/88
bullybones - Lead - 1987
I led the top short wall/second pitch.
JamieAyres - 2nd O/S - Aug/85 with Graham Aveyard
steve L - Lead - 24/Jun/84 with Graham Royle, Clive Curle
Ena - 2nd O/S - Aug/83 with Martin Trouse
Previously lead in April. Pitch 1 only. Felt much easier than 5b - 4b?
stp - Solo rpt - 03/Oct/82
Paul Clarke - 1981
Marcus - 1980 with Not Logged/Can't remember