Rockfax Description
A thrilling pitch combining a head-spinning position with faultless wall-climbing. Start at the top of the ramp.
Traverse out left for 3m along the break, level with the ramp, to a tiny ledge. Climb slightly rightwards up the wall, past 2 pegs, to good nuts in the cracks above. Move up leftwards with difficulty to the base of an open groove and a peg on the right and proceed up the groove to where it fades. Finish up the fingery final wall passing a peg. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Leave the edge of the ramp and continue easily to the first peg, and the second. Then lace the bottom of the rightwards trending crack with good gear and run it out (safely) on an amazing sequence to a massive jug next to a peg and a couple of cams if you want them...
Continue up much easier ground, peg clipping as you go with a little spicy move to finish.

P R Littlejohn, C King 17/Nov/1977

Ticklists: Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Littlejohn South West Climbs, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, Trad climbs for sport climbers, West Country Climbs, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Ultimate E3 ticklist.

Hidden 25/Oct Lead rpt
Bristoldave 18/Aug Lead rpt
with colin
Hidden 29/Jul Lead O/S
JoeE 30/Apr TR RP

Wicked route! Scary runout crux

with Mr Shunt
Hidden 26/Apr Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Oct/14 Lead β
alice fuller 12/Oct/14 2nd β
Brian H 12/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Claiming onsight as I downclimbed when attempting a while back. New pegs make it safer and this time I was able to read the moves on the runout section into the groove. Really good route.

tobydunford 24/Sep/14 Lead rpt
with Kirsty Kerr
Hidden 23/Sep/14 2nd O/S
bigdrew 23/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Eve
tobydunford 22/Sep/14 2nd β
with Harry Martin
mountain_jay 02/Sep/14 Lead O/S

oh my! turned into a bit of a battle. downclimbed from the crux (getting into groove) to the crack. at the top of the groove couldn't decide whether to go direct, but ended up stepping left a bit. was pretty tired and was getting dark! a bit of downclimbing a couple of times from the final peg! eventually got the onsight after about 2.5 hours on the route, by the light of some other climber's headtorches! exciting times!

Ricky Rocks 20/Aug/14 Lead

Total class, amazing position, great climbing. Forgot how good this was..

mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Dave Turnbull, BMC 09/Oct/13 Lead rpt
with Dan Donovan
Joughton 21/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Tough for E3! Hard and bold moving away from the two lower pegs.

Hidden 03/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Alex Winter 26/Jul/13 Lead

I won't win any style awards for this one: mostly on Nicks's gear and with loads of beets. Still, great climbing. Easy when you know how.

with Nick
Nick Russell 26/Jul/13 Lead RP

Eventually figured out the move at the crux. Impeccable climbing above, great exposure, three stars from me! (I'll give it a hard E3 because I know I'm not the only one to find that move hard to read, and it's a relatively big fall albeit onto bomber gear. Easy for 6a though, once you get it figured out)

Alex Winter 13/Jul/13 Lead dnf

Alternated attempts with Jon. Can't figure out the move into groove.

Daniel Heath 25/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Cool techy route, more sustained than expected.

Nick Russell 29/Apr/13 Lead dnf

Standard procedure: stopped mid-crux, got pumped, fell. Should have gone home before trying this, some day I'll learn to finish early and finish strong, rather than keep going til I'm bleeding!

GuyVG 21/Apr/13 2nd β

amazing sequence, bold start, factor 2 scenes

Hidden 21/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Kevster 07/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Sep/12 2nd β
Hidden 19/Sep/12 Lead O/S
AlexD 13/Sep/12 2nd dog
with Ed
Ed Babs 13/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Happy to find this straightforward. Must try MWE.

with AlexD
akhughes 19/Jun/12 2nd O/S
cem 19/Jun/12 2nd dog

Flummoxed by the crux section: couldn't work out the sequence or spot the holds

BeccaSnowden 04/Jun/12 2nd dog

Really hard!

with Tom
thomasadixon 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Might be down to illness/heat/error but it felt near/as hard as Main Wall Eliminate. Hard, sustained and bold "first" crux, didn't remember there was a second one til I checked the guidebook after! Great route on good upper wall rock.

with Becca
Spacetourist 02/Jun/12 Lead rpt
with Lydia
drcorbasisgod ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
mwatson ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Marti999 19/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Graham C 19/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Marti
Cailean Harker 25/Jan/12 Lead O/S

Amazing climb with great exposure

Mike Goldthorp 25/Jan/12 Lead O/S

Very nearly came off on the crux coming into the base of the groove, sloppy footwork, but such a brilliant climb all the way, dont understand why it was left out of the selective rockfax, absolute gem!

with Nick, Giles, Cailean Harker
Toby Dunn 19/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Justin Timms
Justin T 19/Nov/11 2nd
with Toby
richiebongo 17/Oct/11 Lead RP
with Dan Perrot, Nick Smith
danp 17/Oct/11 Lead O/S

amazing line, as good as it looks.

Hidden 14/Sep/11 Lead O/S
benkelsey 14/Sep/11 2nd O/S

So nearly stacked the last move. found the good jug with a few seconds strength to spare.. 3 star route. fantastic.

karenhh 09/Jul/11 2nd dog
Tom Brierley Gore 09/Jul/11 Lead dog

lots of pegs, but it doesn't make it any easier :/

Pippa 14/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Richard
gazhbo ?/Jun/11 Lead
billb ?/Jun/11 Lead
Spacetourist 25/May/11 Lead O/S
with Rosea
colesy 06/May/11 Lead O/S

Nice route.

Rosea Day ?/Mar/11 2nd O/S
with Thomas Heslam
pezzerrr 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
richiebongo 06/Jul/10 Lead dog
with Nick Smith
Hidden 04/Jul/10 2nd rpt
Hidden 24/Jun/10 -
dan gibson 24/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with oscar
Aaron Lines ??/2010 2nd O/S
JulesV 25/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Will Boxen
Dunx 02/Oct/09 2nd
with Giles, Ru
Hidden 04/Jul/09 Lead O/S
feilx 03/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Heather
Bristoldave 06/May/09 Lead rpt
with Jon Hauser
Bristoldave 26/Apr/09 Lead dog

Messed up top crux. Small slump onto peg.

with Jon Hauser
jh5638 26/Apr/09 2nd dog
with Bristol Dave
Hidden 22/Nov/08 Lead RP
Paz 22/Nov/08 2nd dog

Numb as F

with WG
Paz 28/Sep/08 2nd rpt
with WG, HA
Hidden 01/Aug/08 2nd dog
Hidden ??/2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Aug/07 Lead rpt
Paz 09/May/06 2nd rpt
with AS
Bern ??/2006 -
Marcus ??/2006 -
Marcus ??/2006 -
Hidden ?/Aug/05 2nd O/S
Will Homoky ?/May/05 2nd dog

Pretty sure I took a rest somewhere on this one. Stunning face climbing though.

with Pete Milnar
Paz 13/Apr/05 Lead RP
with AS
Hidden 04/Jun/04 Lead RP
Hidden 19/May/04 2nd O/S
Paz 18/May/04 2nd dog

Seconded it (with tight rope assistance) to get my the gear back after my lead attempt lead to airborne retreat.

with AS
_m.cox_ ?/Mar/04 Lead O/S
with Adam Mulholland
cornishben ??/2004 2nd O/S
with Mike Raine
Hidden 20/May/03 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2003 -
KRB 29/Jun/02 Lead β
with unseconded
John Southworth 20/Aug/01 Lead O/S
with Jason Parker
migs493 01/Jul/01 2nd β
ellis ?/Sep/00 Lead O/S
Billg ?/Jul/00 Lead O/S
with Harry
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Oct/97 Lead RP
Hidden 18/Jun/96 Lead dog
Hidden 06/May/96 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/May/96 -
Hidden ??/1995 Lead
Hidden ??/1994 Lead O/S
Johnny Baker ??/1994 -
with Nigel Birtwell
AndySL 08/Jul/93 2nd O/S


with Tim
mattnuttall 06/Mar/93 Lead O/S
with Alan Holden
Hidden 12/Dec/92 2nd dog
Nigel Coe ??/1992 2nd
with Ray Mardon
mark-abz 04/Nov/90 2nd
with Dan W
shark 09/Sep/89 Lead O/S
keefe 21/Aug/88 -
Rich Kirby ?/Jul/88 2nd
DDDD ??/1987 -
bullybones ??/1987 Lead
William Robertson ??/1986 Lead O/S
with Emily
stp 28/Jun/83 Lead rpt

Seconded the year before. More sustained than cruxy. E3 5c.

andy gittins ??/1983 -
Hidden ?/Nov/82 Lead O/S
Steve Bell ??/1981 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Lil_Pete, brew_guru, Hidden, Hidden, Kipper-Phil Smith, hankyc, Edvenables, brices, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Kemics, Hidden, Hidden, Dean177, Owen W-G, andy dunn, Hidden, Hidden, explodingsprouts
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 33
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 33
Votes cast 28
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set