Avon > Avon Gorge (Sea Walls) >
 
New Horizons II*** E2 5c

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[Bristol at its best!, 3 kb]29m. A good pitch that takes on a fine corner-crack close to the top of the ramp. Start at a right-facing flake-crack 10m down from the top of the ramp. 20m. Climb the corner past some difficult moves midway, to where it ends at a short steep headwall. Traverse right to better holds and easier ground leading back left to belays. The short headwall can be climbed directly via a long move at 6a. © ROCKFAX
E3 in 2004 guide. Climbs the obvious corner-crack 10 meters from the top edge of the ramp. Take the jagged right leaning crack to a rest/niche at 8 meters. Follow the thinning right leaning crack till it fades away. Then either traverse the breaks out towards the right arete for the standard finish or tackle the headwall direct at a reachy 6a. Insitu belay.
R Harrison, S Findlay 18/Jul/1977

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist.

Photo: Bristol at its best! © James S
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 269 logbooks, and on 18 wishlists.

So tempted by the direct move :P but wanted to make sure i got it.
Tom Brierley Gore - Lead rpt - 15/Jul/14 with Shijing Hu

gutted, I should have warmed up first, pumped out on the crux and fell off.
alastairbegley - Lead - 01/Jul/14 with Tom Harding

Tom F Harding - 2nd dog - 01/Jul/14 with Alastair Begley

zcsharp - Lead rpt - 29/Jun/14 with George Frisby

Second time doing this route and got the crux fine this time.
George Frisby - 2nd rpt - 29/Jun/14 with jamie roberts

tskelhon - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/14 with Charlotte

andy dunn - 2nd - 13/Jun/14 with Tom

corinrathbone - 2nd dog - 31/May/14 with &#321;ukasz Harazin

Lucas H - Lead O/S - 31/May/14

James S - 2nd rpt - 12/May/14 with tom p, dan

Dan0Me - Lead O/S - 12/May/14 with James S, Tom P

Kevster - Lead rpt - 04/May/14 with Tony Johnson

Hidden - Lead rpt - 29/Apr/14

TommityP - 2nd rpt - 12/Apr/14

Jack_F - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/14 with Remus

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 10/Apr/14

Hidden - 2nd dog - 05/Apr/14

Justin T - Lead rpt - 05/Apr/14 with Nancy

James S - 2nd - 04/Apr/14 with tom p

TommityP - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/14

Hidden - Lead rpt - 01/Apr/14

didn't have the strength to get through the crux.
George Frisby - 2nd dnf - 01/Mar/14 with jamie roberts

Couldn't figure the crux and so i got pumped. Reckon i can do it clean so i am defiantly coming back to it.
zcsharp - Lead dog - 01/Mar/14 with George Frisby

chris j - 2nd - Mar/14 with Nick Arding

Soft
Ollie B - Lead O/S - 02/Feb/14 with Benno

danmullett - Lead O/S - 11/Jan/14

tonevert - 2nd - 2014 with Kevin Faux

Hidden - 2014

eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead O/S - 23/Nov/13 with max

yan hawkins - Lead RP - 31/Oct/13 with ollie benzie

Before the sun reached it thankfully.
Alex Winter - 2nd rpt - 13/Jul/13 with Jonathan

jamestaylor92 - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/13 with james slater

Direct 6a finish, small pop for good hold
Daniel Heath - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/13

My fourth lead of the day, I just ran out of go. I was mostly lacking in commitment with a too heathy dose of cowardice. Even after a tae and a rest I just couldn't pull through the crux. I don't believe it's beyond me but maybe as the main event of the day.
puppythedog - Lead dnf - 24/Jun/13 with Mike Goldthorp

Hidden - 2nd dog - 01/Jun/13

jonbwoy - Jun/13

jonbwoy - Lead O/S - Jun/13

tobydunford - Lead rpt - 21/May/13 with Harry Martin

Pete Rigby - Lead - 17/May/13 with Jim Tan

Dean177 - Lead O/S - 06/May/13 with Alan Dibben

ace gear!
AlexD - Lead O/S - 06/May/13 with Ed

Dibdawg - 2nd O/S - 06/May/13 with Dean Merchant

Alex Winter - 2nd rpt - 05/May/13 with James, George

georgeevans88 - 2nd O/S - 05/May/13 with James, Alex Winter

excellent pumpy climbing.
James S - Lead O/S - 05/May/13 with george, alex

Good stuff.
skippington - Lead O/S - 05/May/13

Didn't find it that pumpy, as there are a couple of good rests on jams. Great route. Traversed too low by accident, which made it a bit exciting.
Alex Winter - Lead O/S - 04/May/13 with Nick

Nick Russell - 2nd rpt - 04/May/13 with Alex Winter

tobydunford - 2nd β - 02/May/13 with Harry Martin

Hidden - Lead rpt - 24/Apr/13

mark20 - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/13

AJM - 2nd rpt - 16/Apr/13 with Helen Seaborne

really pumpy for a 'warm up' - certainly did that!
hms - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/13 with AJM

_m.cox_ - Lead rpt - 13/Apr/13 with stevewinslow

Kevster - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/13

So annoyed didn't find the climbing that hard fell off before I got to the crux. foot and hand just slipped don't know how it happenned laspe of concentration. Got back on and cruised it after. Another brilliant route
Dale - Lead dog - Apr/13 with Tim

Great route.
andy_pemberton - Lead - 17/Feb/13

pheotleyr - 2nd rpt - 15/Feb/13 with Neil

HarryB - TR rpt - 12/Feb/13 with Shunt

Anthony Dixon - Lead O/S - 13/Jan/13 with Edd

jonbwoy - 2013

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Dec/12

Hidden - Lead rpt - 18/Nov/12

gazhbo - Lead O/S - 18/Nov/12

pheotleyr - 2nd β - 20/Oct/12 with Owen

Most boxed topping out as i can remember, was pretty pumped early on and struggled to recover at stopping point below crux, took about 5 up and downs nearly bottled it but glad I didn't, good jams and cams immediately available above, elvis legs to finish. Prob only 5b but feels harder unless you're packing muscle
Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/12 with Austrian Peter

Brian H - Lead O/S - 07/Oct/12 with Kafoozalem

Hidden - Lead - 30/Sep/12

Luke Dawson - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/12

Hidden - Lead rpt - 06/Sep/12

s.c.white - 30/Aug/12 with Dave Simpson

Total pump fest, nearly fell off from the top traverse!
vertigo714 - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/12 with Tom Morgan

Faffed, but got on with it in the end. Nice route.
AJM - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/12 with Tomar

Tomar - Lead rpt - 03/Aug/12 with Andy

Still scary!
BeccaSnowden - Lead RP - 03/Aug/12 with Tom

richiebongo - Lead RP - 09/Jul/12 with Jon Didymus

Really good route, Very well protected. Pumpy
SGD - 2nd - 09/Jul/12 with phil wilkinson

Gibbo - TR - 05/Jul/12 with Kev Little

akhughes - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/12

cem - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/12 with Chris Parson

On Andy's gear
mikeshewring - Lead β - 09/Jun/12

Billg - Lead rpt - 09/Jun/12 with Bob Brewer

Pete Rigby - Lead dog - 09/Jun/12 with Merlin March

Spacetourist - Lead rpt - 02/Jun/12 with Lydia

drcorbasisgod - 2nd O/S - Jun/12 with Charles Moreton

Very very very very very very very very...hot! 30 degrees I think..? None the less, I manned up with some encouragement from Aaron and did the direct mini dyno finish. Awesome!!!! Gear is stupidly good and (bar the top dyno) it really isn't hard for 5c. 3*'s!!!!
Stanners - Lead rpt - 25/May/12 with Aaron Lines

Led with Dave's gear till the rest. A little bit nervous and not trusting cams after watching Dave take a 2 piece ripping (10meter?) fall. It felt pretty soft in 5c but most moves are sustained 5b. Got absurdly pumped by the final traverse, thought I was falling off every move but managed to wobble across screaming with every move. Triumphant top out. Either I missed a trick or it's damn solid in E2. Got a bit of just about every technique going from fingerlocks, crimps to slopers.
Kemics - Lead β - 20/May/12 with Dave 88

Fantastic. Easy for 5c but a lot of 5a/b.
Dave 88 - 2nd rpt - 20/May/12 with Kemics

Probably not a grade I should be warming up on! Pumped out on the crux, went for what I thought was going to be a slump onto gear only to have two cams rip and take a huge lob (10m ish) onto not a huge wire. That kinda set the tone for the day.
Dave 88 - Lead dnf - 20/May/12 with Kemics

Soft and well protected.
philhilo - Lead O/S - 12/May/12 with misha

Slipped off carelessly on second. Put onsight so it counts towards Littlejohn ticklist.
Misha - 2nd O/S - 12/May/12 with Phil

Joe Innes - Lead rpt - 11/May/12 with Laurent Moseley

1st try today
HarryB - Lead RP - 02/May/12 with Al

On Becca's gear (mostly).
thomasadixon - Lead rpt - 02/May/12 with Becca

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/12

On Tom's gear. Fun route.
Mr Powly - Lead β - 20/Apr/12 with Tom Everett

tom.e - Lead rpt - 20/Apr/12 with Tom Powell

Took the traverse finish - not nearly as bad as the guidebook makes out, soft E2. Good swing from Rhys on 2nd.
Stone Muppet - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/12 with rd

after lots of falls and a bit of advice from tim emmett, i still couldnt get it clean!
HarryB - Lead dog - 21/Mar/12 with Al

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/12

Spacetourist - Lead rpt - 29/Feb/12 with Tris, Pete

brices - Lead O/S - 15/Feb/12

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 01/Feb/12 with Nick

Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 28/Jan/12 with Graeme

Brilliant quality climbing all the way, spicy little 6a move if you go direct to finish, definitely more of a true line though!
Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 25/Jan/12 with Nick, Giles, Cailean Harker

al99 - Lead O/S - 16/Jan/12 with Mike Coles

thomb - 2nd - 14/Jan/12 with Gareth

DorsetGareth - Lead O/S - 14/Jan/12 with Tom B

Toby Dunn - Lead - 30/Nov/11 with Pete Saunders

Justin T - Lead O/S - 19/Nov/11 with Toby

Toby Dunn - 2nd - 12/Nov/11 with Sophie Nunn

Sophie Nunn - Lead O/S - 12/Nov/11 with Toby

Have no idea how I fell on this. Was comfy shaking out one moment, the next I was weighting the rope. My foot randomly popped - very annoying! Fantastic route though and quite friendly for E2. Good to see the ramp so dam busy today, with some quality climbers having a casual dig at E4's.
Stanners - 2nd dog - 06/Nov/11 with James Rich, Jack Bradbrook

Gutted to fall off, what a great route though. Good effort leading it from Jack
JamesRich - 2nd dog - 06/Nov/11 with Rob stanfield, Jack Bradbrook

Brilliant route and quite soft for the grade, several places where you're able to utilise rests and solid gear the entire way. Just make sure that you warm up before hand and don't get pumped. Pretty psycked seeing as its the first day of good weather we've had in about a month now.
Quarryboy - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/11 with Richard Hall (Dick's Climbing), Chris Savage, James Rich, Rob Stanfield, Mark Davies

BeccaSnowden - 2nd O/S - 06/Nov/11 with Tom

thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/11 with Becca

Hidden - Lead rpt - 14/Oct/11

Hidden - Lead β - 14/Sep/11

Nice climbing and good gear. thought it would be more strenuous than it was.
benkelsey - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/11 with Remus Knowles

scorpia97 - Lead rpt - 09/Sep/11 with Ross Davidson

AlistairB - 2nd O/S - 27/Aug/11 with Andy Janezko, Lisa

Not E3 as it is in the current guide.. A great E2 though. Did the right hand finish.
bigdrew - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/11 with Alistair, Lisa

andy dunn - Lead rpt - 05/Aug/11 with Mike, J

Mark Warnett - Lead O/S - Aug/11

andy dunn - Lead rpt - 29/Jul/11 with Mike, Darren, J

Hidden - Lead rpt - 15/Jul/11

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 15/Jul/11

Hidden - TR O/S - 12/Jul/11

Hidden - TR RP - 12/Jul/11

Excellent route with solid gear. I hung around too long before the end of the crack and needed a rest before the traverse. Plan to repeat.
Tom Brierley Gore - Lead dog - 01/Jul/11 with Shijing Hu

Awesome route
andy dunn - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/11 with J

lukehodson - Lead rpt - 28/Jun/11 with Harry Allan

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 28/Jun/11

6th day out climbing in 12 months, and this was the warm up....
Jim Brooke - 2nd dog - 22/Jun/11 with Rich

Didn't figure out what appeared to be the crux at 2/3rds height very quickly. About to get dark and possibly rain so downclimbed the route and let Tom fetch the gear...
andy dunn - Lead dnf - 16/Jun/11 with Tom

explodingsprouts - 2nd β - 09/Jun/11 with Pippa

Pippa - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/11 with James

explodingsprouts - 2nd O/S - 01/Jun/11 with Tim

tommytuffa - 2nd - 31/May/11 with Rich H

Spacetourist - Lead O/S - 25/May/11 with Rosea

Immaculate. Climbing quite intimidating but moves quite easy in the end
Jon_Warner - Lead O/S - 24/May/11 with Dan P

Glyn - Lead O/S - 22/May/11 with Trystan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/May/11

Hidden - TR rpt - 10/May/11

Solo aid
HarryB - Lead dog - 08/May/11

Hidden - Lead rpt - 05/May/11

Hidden - Lead dnf - 04/May/11

Fran S8 - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/11

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Apr/11

clams - 2nd O/S - Apr/11 with Jim

crossdressingrodney - 2nd O/S - 30/Mar/11 with Tomar

Will try the direct version next time. Great route!
Tomar - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead rpt - 13/Mar/11

lukehodson - 2nd rpt - 13/Mar/11 with Little Tom

Rosea Day - 2nd O/S - Mar/11 with Thomas Heslam

With direct finish this time.
Richard Hall - Lead O/S - 06/Feb/11 with Ollie Benzie

Great route, really enjoyed the last bit.
Richard Hall - Lead O/S - 09/Jan/11 with Chris Savage

Billg - 2nd O/S - 02/Jan/11 with Will Calvert

Hidden - Lead rpt - 31/Oct/10

Hidden - Lead rpt - 28/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead rpt - 22/Aug/10

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 27/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead RP - 11/Jun/10

Jessie Rushbrooke - Lead β - 20/Apr/10 with GF

Alasdair88 - 2nd O/S - 13/Apr/10 with Loz

finally done the direct dyno clean... once again .... an awesome move
Dr Caterpillar - Lead RP - 12/Apr/10 with Al

Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/10 with Mike Hawkins

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Mar/10

Hidden - Lead dnf - 13/Feb/10

rested on the secret gear before the direct dyno. its an awesome move!
Dr Caterpillar - Lead dog - 05/Feb/10 with Robin

direct 6a finish. had to dyno!
Aaron Lines - Lead O/S - 2010 with frank

Mistakenly went for the direct finish, jumped off. Found the original finish easy
Dr Caterpillar - Lead - 21/Oct/09 with Calum

It was dark...
Greg Pittam - 2nd rpt - 08/Sep/09 with Sam Howel

Greg Pittam - Lead rpt - 17/Aug/09 with Livi

Greg Pittam - Lead β - 13/Aug/09 with Claire Durant & Sam Howell

Greg Pittam - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/09 with Livi & Clare

James Marshall - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/09

Hidden - 2nd rpt - Jun/09

Awesome, great route
lukehodson - Lead rpt - 03/May/09 with Sam Howell

Hidden - 2nd rpt - May/09

Si got too pumped to continue and too a few low off the final traverse, so he came down and I finished it off, though at that point I was on top rope until the start of the traverse.
Caspar - 2nd - 29/Apr/09 with Simon Reynolds

went for the 6a move got too pumped, fell off before i could down climb to the traverse.
scorpia97 - Lead dnf - 29/Apr/09 with Caspian

Paz - Lead rpt - 15/Apr/09 with WG

billb - Lead O/S - Apr/09 with Rich Smith

Hidden - Lead β - 17/Jan/09

took the direct finish this time (6a)
lukehodson - 2nd rpt - 10/Dec/08 with Howard

Cowflinger - TR O/S - 07/Dec/08 with Martyn Richards

Paz - Lead rpt - 22/Nov/08 with WG

lukehodson - 2nd O/S - 12/Nov/08 with Howard, Hazel

Paz - 2nd rpt - 03/Nov/08 with WG

Direct dyno...
Paz - Lead rpt - 24/Oct/08 with WG

Paz - 2nd rpt - 08/Oct/08 with GD

Paz - 2nd rpt - 28/Sep/08 with HA

Direct, dyno.
Paz - Lead rpt - 26/Sep/08 with WG

Paz - 2nd rpt - 17/Aug/08 with WG

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/08

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Jul/08

Direct.
Paz - Lead rpt - 30/Jul/08 with WG

Paz - 2nd rpt - 18/Jul/08 with WG

Hidden - Lead RP - 27/May/08

Seconded WG up it, then led the direct myself to retreive gear
Paz - Lead rpt - 27/May/08 with TS2, WG

Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 07/May/08 with ewan and Mr 9

Hidden - 2nd dog - 07/May/08

Ewan Richards - 2nd - Apr/08 with Dave6

Finally found a no-hander on this, using a shoulder and a toe hook. It's sadly not worth taking.
Paz - 2nd rpt - 27/Feb/08 with HA

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Feb/08

Hidden - 2008

feilx - Lead O/S - 23/Dec/07 with Mike Soldner

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 10/Nov/07

More Like E2 5B
The Pylon King - 2nd rpt - 17/Aug/07 with Fiend

Hidden - Lead - 26/Jun/07

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/May/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/May/07

Hidden - 2nd - 29/May/07

Bux - 2nd β - 12/Jul/06 with Nick

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/06

With the 6a direct finish - nice.
Paz - Lead rpt - 09/May/06 with AS

Bern - 2006

Jo McCready - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/05

Hidden - Lead rpt - May/05

joe_alexander - 2nd - 25/Apr/05 with Nick Gillette

Ground-up. (took a fall, did it clean the next day)
tom.e - Lead RP - 2005

phsharpy - Lead RP - 2005 with Simon Kimber

Mark A Humphries - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/04 with dean howard

Hidden - Lead - 09/May/04

cornishben - Lead - 2004 with Mike Raine

_m.cox_ - Lead O/S - Aug/03 with Adam Mulholland

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/03

Paz - Lead O/S - May/03 with TS

With direct finish
KRB - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/02 with Chris & Martin

simon kimber - Lead O/S - 2002 with Tony Penning, Gavin Cytlau

Hidden - Lead - Apr/01

gimmer - 2001

Hidden - 2nd - 2001

shoulders - Lead β - 22/Oct/00 with mart, andy sharp, pete lewis

Hidden - 2000

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

Richard White - Lead O/S - 2000 with John Southworth

John Southworth - Lead O/S - 07/Feb/99 with Dave Slater

Ally Smith - 1999

Hidden - 1999

Hidden - Lead - 1998

Hidden - Lead - 25/Oct/97

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1996

Hidden - Lead rpt - 30/Apr/95

lowersharpnose - Lead - 01/Jan/95

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/94

AndySL - 2nd O/S - 23/May/93 with Mark

Stoney Boy - Lead O/S - 23/May/93 with Tim Gould

mattnuttall - Lead O/S - 06/Mar/93 with Alan Holden

Hidden - Lead - Mar/93

Roget - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/92 with jon

Pete Ogden - Lead - 1990

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1989

I fall trying the direct finish.
Nigel Coe - 2nd - 03/Jan/87 with Gordon Jenkin

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Dec/86

Moses - 2nd - 15/Nov/86

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1986 with Emily

andy gittins - 1983

Hidden - 1981

Hidden - Lead - 1981

Hidden - Lead O/S - Nov/80

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
hutchay, Hidden, chrisweight, Hidden, Ropeboy, Chris Sansum, JamesRich, Jon Didymus, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Kemics, Hidden, Hidden, stvredmond, explodingsprouts, The Pylon King, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 143
hard E30 of 48
E30 of 48
easy E32 of 48
hard E25 of 48
E230 of 48
easy E211 of 48
hard E10 of 48
E10 of 48
easy E10 of 48
hard 6a0 of 47
6a0 of 47
easy 6a0 of 47
hard 5c1 of 47
5c15 of 47
easy 5c25 of 47
hard 5b6 of 47
5b0 of 47
easy 5b0 of 47
3 Stars37 of 48
2 Stars10 of 48
1 Star1 of 48
0 Stars0 of 48
Bag of .....0 of 48
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Style of ascent

Lead177 of 269 (65.8%)
Followed73 of 269 (27.1%)
Toproped6 of 269 (2.2%)
Unknown13 of 269 (4.8%)

'Climbed'47 of 269 (17.5%)
clean O/S110 of 269 (40.9%)
clean β12 of 269 (4.5%)
clean rpt68 of 269 (25.3%)
clean RP10 of 269 (3.7%)
dogged15 of 269 (5.6%)
dnf7 of 269 (2.6%)