Rockfax Description
A good pitch that takes on a fine corner-crack close to the top of the ramp. Start at a right-facing flake-crack 10m down from the top of the ramp.
Climb the corner past some difficult moves midway, to where it ends at a short steep headwall. Traverse right to better holds and easier ground leading back left to belays. The short headwall can be climbed directly via a long move at 6a. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
E3 in 2004 guide. Climbs the obvious corner-crack 10 meters from the top edge of the ramp. Take the jagged right leaning crack to a rest/niche at 8 meters. Follow the thinning right leaning crack till it fades away. Then either traverse the breaks out towards the right arete for the standard finish or tackle the headwall direct at a reachy 6a. Insitu belay.

R Harrison, S Findlay 18/Jul/1977

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Bristol first E2s.

thom_jenkinson 12/Nov Lead RP

Ace route! Hugo pointed out a pinch I previously hadn't seen before which made the crux much easier - good to put another demon to rest!

with Hugo
thom_jenkinson 12/Nov 2nd rpt

Seconded after leading to try the direct finish - long slap to a jug. Good move.

with Hugo
Hugobristol 12/Nov Lead rpt

Took a good, deliberate, fall whilst psyching myself up for the 6a finish. Then just did the normal way off and inspected the direct on top rope.

with Thom
Hugobristol 12/Nov Lead rpt

Lead the 6a version on Thoms gear after toprope practice, both feet popped off good footholds halfway up leaving me hanging off some finger locks. Poor technique and ethics!

with Thom
laurashaw 25/Oct 2nd O/S
thom_jenkinson 25/Oct Lead dog
Hidden 25/Oct 2nd rpt
Cheese Monkey 15/Jul Lead O/S

Easier than I was expecting, all over too soon!

with Alex W
Alex Winter 15/Jul 2nd rpt
with Ben Darby
adam 24 27/Jun Lead O/S
with Caroline
Hidden 21/Jun Lead O/S
felixizzy 20/Jun 2nd dog

1 fall, wasn't paying enough attention.

with Mike
kenneM 20/Jun Lead β

Seconded before - brilliant route.

Luxulyan 18/Jun 2nd
with Harry
kenneM 30/May 2nd O/S
with Chris
Wendy 30/May Lead

On Ollie's gear

with James Marshall
Hugobristol 27/May 2nd rpt

Seconded to the last gear then lead the last traverse. Played the with the 6a finish on top rope..

with Dave
Dino Dave 27/May 2nd β
tobydunford 08/May 2nd rpt
with Harry Martin
Graham Westbrook 07/May Lead O/S
richardashe 07/May 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/Apr Lead rpt
Hidden 26/Apr Lead O/S
Hugobristol 24/Apr Lead β

Pretty soft.

with Ian
felixizzy 22/Apr Lead O/S

I don't think gear gets more bomber than this. Awesome route.

with Lewis
i_a_coops 22/Apr Lead O/S
andy dunn 22/Apr 2nd
with Big Ben, J
Hidden 17/Apr Lead rpt
Hidden 15/Apr Lead rpt
brices 09/Apr Lead rpt
with Llinos
james1978 15/Mar 2nd
with Justin
Jus 15/Mar Lead
Nathan Chrismas 07/Mar 2nd dog
Rebs 04/Mar 2nd dog
Nick Russell 02/Mar Lead rpt

Had a poke around at the direct finish but didn't like the look of it. Traversed right at a slightly higher level than previously.

thom_jenkinson 02/Mar 2nd RP

Bottled the lead a few moves short of the traverse - gutted since it felt really doable on second. Seconded clean.

brices 31/Jan Lead rpt
with Jack F
James S 22/Jan 2nd

Quick climb before the rain came back...direct finish is great!

with geoff
grp 21/Jan Lead O/S
quiffhanger 14/Dec/14 Lead O/S

Awesome route.

_m.cox_ 13/Dec/14 Lead rpt
_m.cox_ 06/Dec/14 Lead rpt
Lil_Pete 20/Nov/14 Lead RP

Great fun warm up for the day!

hankyc 12/Oct/14 Lead O/S

love the final move out right! felt spicy

Pippa 10/Sep/14 2nd rpt
with Richard Bennett
Hidden 10/Sep/14 Lead O/S
ian d f 28/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Pete H
Nick Russell 20/Aug/14 2nd rpt

Felt steady today, despite the light rain.

with Jordan
Joughton 18/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Tom Brierley Gore 15/Jul/14 Lead rpt

So tempted by the direct move :P but wanted to make sure i got it.

alastairbegley 01/Jul/14 Lead

gutted, I should have warmed up first, pumped out on the crux and fell off.

Tom F Harding 01/Jul/14 2nd dog
zcsharp 29/Jun/14 Lead rpt
George Frisby 29/Jun/14 2nd rpt

Second time doing this route and got the crux fine this time.

with jamie roberts
tskelhon 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
clmacdonald 21/Jun/14 2nd
andy dunn 13/Jun/14 2nd
with Tom
Hidden 31/May/14 2nd dog
LucasHarazin 31/May/14 Lead O/S
James S 12/May/14 2nd rpt
with tom p, dan
Dan0Me 12/May/14 Lead O/S
with James S, Tom P
Kevster 04/May/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 29/Apr/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 12/Apr/14 2nd rpt
Jack_F 10/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Remus
Hidden 10/Apr/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 05/Apr/14 2nd dog
Justin T 05/Apr/14 Lead rpt
with Nancy
James S 04/Apr/14 2nd
with tom p
Hidden 04/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Apr/14 Lead rpt
George Frisby 01/Mar/14 2nd dnf

didn't have the strength to get through the crux.

with jamie roberts
zcsharp 01/Mar/14 Lead dog

Couldn't figure the crux and so i got pumped. Reckon i can do it clean so i am defiantly coming back to it.

chris j ?/Mar/14 2nd
with Nick Arding
Ollie B 02/Feb/14 Lead O/S


with Benno
danmullett 11/Jan/14 Lead O/S
tonevert ??/2014 2nd
with Kevin Faux
Hidden ??/2014 -
eddy-on-the-rocks 23/Nov/13 Lead O/S
with max
yan hawkins 31/Oct/13 Lead RP
with ollie benzie
Alex Winter 13/Jul/13 2nd rpt

Before the sun reached it thankfully.

jamestaylor92 12/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Daniel Heath 25/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Direct 6a finish, small pop for good hold

puppythedog 24/Jun/13 Lead dnf

My fourth lead of the day, I just ran out of go. I was mostly lacking in commitment with a too heathy dose of cowardice. Even after a tae and a rest I just couldn't pull through the crux. I don't believe it's beyond me but maybe as the main event of the day.

Hidden 01/Jun/13 2nd dog
jonbwoy ?/Jun/13 -
jonbwoy ?/Jun/13 Lead O/S
tobydunford 21/May/13 Lead rpt
with Harry Martin
Pete Rigby 17/May/13 Lead
with Jim Tan
Dean177 06/May/13 Lead O/S
AlexD 06/May/13 Lead O/S

ace gear!

with Ed
Dibdawg 06/May/13 2nd O/S
Alex Winter 05/May/13 2nd rpt
with James, George
georgeevans88 05/May/13 2nd O/S
with James, Alex Winter
James S 05/May/13 Lead O/S

excellent pumpy climbing.

with george, alex
skippington 05/May/13 Lead O/S

Good stuff.

Alex Winter 04/May/13 Lead O/S

Didn't find it that pumpy, as there are a couple of good rests on jams. Great route. Traversed too low by accident, which made it a bit exciting.

with Nick
Nick Russell 04/May/13 2nd rpt
tobydunford 02/May/13 2nd β
with Harry Martin
Hidden 24/Apr/13 Lead rpt
mark20 21/Apr/13 Lead O/S
AJM 16/Apr/13 2nd rpt
Hidden 16/Apr/13 Lead O/S
_m.cox_ 13/Apr/13 Lead rpt
Kevster 07/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Dale ?/Apr/13 Lead dog

So annoyed didn't find the climbing that hard fell off before I got to the crux. foot and hand just slipped don't know how it happenned laspe of concentration. Got back on and cruised it after. Another brilliant route

with Tim
andy_pemberton 17/Feb/13 Lead

Great route.

pheotleyr 15/Feb/13 2nd rpt
with Neil
HarryB 12/Feb/13 TR rpt
with Shunt
Anthony Dixon 13/Jan/13 Lead O/S
with Edd
jonbwoy ??/2013 -
Hidden 08/Dec/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Nov/12 Lead rpt
gazhbo 18/Nov/12 Lead O/S
pheotleyr 20/Oct/12 2nd β
with Owen
Owen W-G 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Most boxed topping out as i can remember, was pretty pumped early on and struggled to recover at stopping point below crux, took about 5 up and downs nearly bottled it but glad I didn't, good jams and cams immediately available above, elvis legs to finish. Prob only 5b but feels harder unless you're packing muscle

Brian H 07/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Sep/12 Lead
Luke Dawson 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Sep/12 Lead rpt
s.c.white 30/Aug/12 -
with Dave Simpson
Hidden 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
AJM 03/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Faffed, but got on with it in the end. Nice route.

with Tomar
Tomar 03/Aug/12 Lead rpt
with Andy
BeccaSnowden 03/Aug/12 Lead RP

Still scary!

with Tom
richiebongo 09/Jul/12 Lead RP
with Jon Didymus
SGD 09/Jul/12 2nd

Really good route, Very well protected. Pumpy

Gibbo 05/Jul/12 TR
akhughes 19/Jun/12 2nd O/S
cem 19/Jun/12 Lead O/S
mikeshewring 09/Jun/12 Lead β

On Andy's gear

Billg 09/Jun/12 Lead rpt
with Bob Brewer
Pete Rigby 09/Jun/12 Lead dog
with Merlin March
Spacetourist 02/Jun/12 Lead rpt
with Lydia
drcorbasisgod ?/Jun/12 2nd O/S
Stanners 25/May/12 Lead rpt

Very very very very very very very very...hot! 30 degrees I think..? None the less, I manned up with some encouragement from Aaron and did the direct mini dyno finish. Awesome!!!! Gear is stupidly good and (bar the top dyno) it really isn't hard for 5c. 3*'s!!!!

Aaron Lines 25/May/12 2nd
Kemics 20/May/12 Lead β

Led with Dave's gear till the rest. A little bit nervous and not trusting cams after watching Dave take a 2 piece ripping (10meter?) fall. It felt pretty soft in 5c but most moves are sustained 5b. Got absurdly pumped by the final traverse, thought I was falling off every move but managed to wobble across screaming with every move. Triumphant top out. Either I missed a trick or it's damn solid in E2. Got a bit of just about every technique going from fingerlocks, crimps to slopers.

with Dave 88
Dave 88 20/May/12 2nd rpt

Fantastic. Easy for 5c but a lot of 5a/b.

with Kemics
Dave 88 20/May/12 Lead dnf

Probably not a grade I should be warming up on! Pumped out on the crux, went for what I thought was going to be a slump onto gear only to have two cams rip and take a huge lob (10m ish) onto not a huge wire. That kinda set the tone for the day.

with Kemics
philhilo 12/May/12 Lead O/S

Soft and well protected.

with misha
Misha 12/May/12 2nd O/S

Slipped off carelessly on second. Put onsight so it counts towards Littlejohn ticklist.

with Phil
Joe Innes 11/May/12 Lead rpt
HarryB 02/May/12 Lead RP

1st try today

with Al
thomasadixon 02/May/12 Lead rpt

On Becca's gear (mostly).

with Becca
Hidden 20/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Mr Powly 20/Apr/12 Lead β

On Tom's gear. Fun route.

tom.e 20/Apr/12 Lead rpt
Stone Muppet 13/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Took the traverse finish - not nearly as bad as the guidebook makes out, soft E2. Good swing from Rhys on 2nd.

with rd
HarryB 21/Mar/12 Lead dog

after lots of falls and a bit of advice from tim emmett, i still couldnt get it clean!

with Al
Hidden 14/Mar/12 2nd
Hidden 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Spacetourist 29/Feb/12 Lead rpt
with Tris, Pete
brices 15/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Marti999 01/Feb/12 Lead O/S
with Nick
Nick Russell 28/Jan/12 Lead O/S
with Graeme
Mike Goldthorp 25/Jan/12 Lead O/S

Brilliant quality climbing all the way, spicy little 6a move if you go direct to finish, definitely more of a true line though!

with Nick, Giles, Cailean Harker
al99 16/Jan/12 Lead O/S
thomb 14/Jan/12 2nd
with Gareth
DorsetGareth 14/Jan/12 Lead O/S
with Tom B
Toby Dunn 30/Nov/11 Lead
with Pete Saunders
Justin T 19/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Toby
Toby Dunn 12/Nov/11 2nd
with Sophie Nunn
Sophie Nunn 12/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Toby
Stanners 06/Nov/11 2nd dog

Have no idea how I fell on this. Was comfy shaking out one moment, the next I was weighting the rope. My foot randomly popped - very annoying! Fantastic route though and quite friendly for E2. Good to see the ramp so dam busy today, with some quality climbers having a casual dig at E4's.

with James Rich, Jack Bradbrook
JamesRich 06/Nov/11 2nd dog

Gutted to fall off, what a great route though. Good effort leading it from Jack

Quarryboy 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S

Brilliant route and quite soft for the grade, several places where you're able to utilise rests and solid gear the entire way. Just make sure that you warm up before hand and don't get pumped. Pretty psycked seeing as its the first day of good weather we've had in about a month now.

BeccaSnowden 06/Nov/11 2nd O/S
with Tom
thomasadixon 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Becca
Hidden 14/Oct/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 14/Sep/11 Lead β
benkelsey 14/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Nice climbing and good gear. thought it would be more strenuous than it was.

scorpia97 09/Sep/11 Lead rpt
AlistairB 27/Aug/11 2nd O/S
bigdrew 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Not E3 as it is in the current guide.. A great E2 though. Did the right hand finish.

andy dunn 05/Aug/11 Lead rpt
with Mike, J
Mark Warnett ?/Aug/11 Lead O/S
andy dunn 29/Jul/11 Lead rpt
with Mike, Darren, J
Hidden 15/Jul/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 15/Jul/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 12/Jul/11 TR O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/11 TR RP
Tom Brierley Gore 01/Jul/11 Lead dog

Excellent route with solid gear. I hung around too long before the end of the crack and needed a rest before the traverse. Plan to repeat.

andy dunn 30/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Awesome route

with J
lukehodson 28/Jun/11 Lead rpt
with Harry Allan
Hidden 28/Jun/11 2nd rpt
Jim Brooke 22/Jun/11 2nd dog

6th day out climbing in 12 months, and this was the warm up....

with Rich
andy dunn 16/Jun/11 Lead dnf

Didn't figure out what appeared to be the crux at 2/3rds height very quickly. About to get dark and possibly rain so downclimbed the route and let Tom fetch the gear...

with Tom
explodingsprouts 09/Jun/11 2nd β
with Pippa
Pippa 09/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with James
explodingsprouts 01/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Tim
tommytuffa 31/May/11 2nd
with Rich H
Spacetourist 25/May/11 Lead O/S
with Rosea
Jon_Warner 24/May/11 Lead O/S

Immaculate. Climbing quite intimidating but moves quite easy in the end

with Dan P
Glyn 22/May/11 Lead O/S
with Trystan
Hidden 21/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/May/11 TR rpt
HarryB 08/May/11 Lead dog

Solo aid

Hidden 05/May/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 04/May/11 Lead dnf
Fran S8 22/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/11 2nd
clams ?/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Jim
crossdressingrodney 30/Mar/11 2nd O/S
with Tomar
Tomar 30/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Will try the direct version next time. Great route!

Hidden 28/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Mar/11 Lead rpt
lukehodson 13/Mar/11 2nd rpt
with Little Tom
Rosea Day ?/Mar/11 2nd O/S
with Thomas Heslam
Richard Hall 06/Feb/11 Lead O/S

With direct finish this time.

with Ollie Benzie
Richard Hall 09/Jan/11 Lead O/S

Great route, really enjoyed the last bit.

with Chris Savage
Billg 02/Jan/11 2nd O/S
with Will Calvert
Hidden 31/Oct/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 28/Aug/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 22/Aug/10 Lead rpt
Dandan82 22/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/10 2nd rpt
Hidden 27/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/10 Lead RP
Jessie Rushbrooke 20/Apr/10 Lead β
with GF
Alasdair88 13/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Loz
Dr Caterpillar 12/Apr/10 Lead RP

finally done the direct dyno clean... once again .... an awesome move

with Al
Ed Babs 04/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Mike Hawkins
Hidden 10/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Feb/10 Lead dnf
Dr Caterpillar 05/Feb/10 Lead dog

rested on the secret gear before the direct dyno. its an awesome move!

with Robin
Aaron Lines ??/2010 Lead O/S

direct 6a finish. had to dyno!

with frank
Dr Caterpillar 21/Oct/09 Lead

Mistakenly went for the direct finish, jumped off. Found the original finish easy

with Calum
Greg Pittam 08/Sep/09 2nd rpt

It was dark...

with Sam Howel
Greg Pittam 17/Aug/09 Lead rpt
with Livi
Greg Pittam 13/Aug/09 Lead β
with Claire Durant & Sam Howell
Greg Pittam 11/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with Livi & Clare
Hidden 22/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/09 2nd rpt
lukehodson 03/May/09 Lead rpt

Awesome, great route

Hidden ?/May/09 2nd rpt
Hidden 29/Apr/09 2nd
scorpia97 29/Apr/09 Lead dnf

went for the 6a move got too pumped, fell off before i could down climb to the traverse.

with Caspian
Paz 15/Apr/09 Lead rpt
with WG
billb ?/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Jan/09 Lead β
lukehodson 10/Dec/08 2nd rpt

took the direct finish this time (6a)

with Howard
Cowflinger 07/Dec/08 TR O/S
with Martyn Richards
Paz 22/Nov/08 Lead rpt
with WG
lukehodson 12/Nov/08 2nd O/S
with Howard, Hazel
Paz 03/Nov/08 2nd rpt
with WG
Paz 24/Oct/08 Lead rpt

Direct dyno...

with WG
Paz 08/Oct/08 2nd rpt
with GD
Paz 28/Sep/08 2nd rpt
with HA
Paz 26/Sep/08 Lead rpt

Direct, dyno.

with WG
Paz 17/Aug/08 2nd rpt
with WG
Hidden 01/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/08 2nd O/S
Paz 30/Jul/08 Lead rpt


with WG
Paz 18/Jul/08 2nd rpt
with WG
Hidden 27/May/08 Lead RP
Paz 27/May/08 Lead rpt

Seconded WG up it, then led the direct myself to retreive gear

with TS2, WG
Bristoldave 07/May/08 Lead O/S
with ewan and Mr 9
Hidden 07/May/08 2nd dog
Ewan Richards ?/Apr/08 2nd
with Dave6
Paz 27/Feb/08 2nd rpt

Finally found a no-hander on this, using a shoulder and a toe hook. It's sadly not worth taking.

with HA
Hidden 27/Feb/08 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2008 -
feilx 23/Dec/07 Lead O/S
pezzerrr 10/Nov/07 Lead O/S
Urgles 17/Aug/07 2nd rpt

More Like E2 5B

with Fiend
Hidden 26/Jun/07 Lead
Hidden 29/May/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/May/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/May/07 2nd
Bux 12/Jul/06 2nd β
with Nick
Hidden 10/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Paz 09/May/06 Lead rpt

With the 6a direct finish - nice.

with AS
Bern ??/2006 -
Jo McCready ??/2006 -
LC ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/05 Lead rpt
joe_alexander 25/Apr/05 2nd
with Nick Gillette
tom.e ??/2005 Lead RP

Ground-up. (took a fall, did it clean the next day)

phsharpy ??/2005 Lead RP
with Simon Kimber
Mark A Humphries 04/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with dean howard
Hidden 09/May/04 Lead
cornishben ??/2004 Lead
with Mike Raine
_m.cox_ ?/Aug/03 Lead O/S
with Adam Mulholland
just one more 29/Jun/03 Lead
with Svenn G
Hidden 11/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Paz ?/May/03 Lead O/S
with TS
KRB 16/Jun/02 Lead O/S

With direct finish

with Chris & Martin
simon kimber ??/2002 Lead O/S
with Tony Penning, Gavin Cytlau
Hidden 09/Sep/01 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/01 Lead
gimmer ??/2001 -
Hidden ??/2001 2nd
shoulders 22/Oct/00 Lead β
with mart, andy sharp, pete lewis
Hidden ??/2000 -
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
migs493 28/Mar/99 Lead O/S
John Southworth 07/Feb/99 Lead O/S
with Dave Slater
Hidden ??/1999 -
Hidden ??/1999 -
serby ??/1999 Lead
Hidden 11/Feb/98 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
Hidden 25/Oct/97 Lead
Hidden ??/1996 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Apr/95 Lead rpt
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/95 Lead
Hidden 24/Apr/94 Lead O/S
AndySL 23/May/93 2nd O/S
with Mark
Stoney Boy 23/May/93 Lead O/S
with Tim Gould
mattnuttall 06/Mar/93 Lead O/S
with Alan Holden
Hidden ?/Mar/93 Lead
Roget 31/Aug/92 Lead O/S
with jon
Pete Ogden ??/1990 Lead
Hidden ??/1989 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe 03/Jan/87 2nd

I fall trying the direct finish.

Hidden 06/Dec/86 Lead O/S
Moses 15/Nov/86 2nd
William Robertson ??/1986 Lead O/S
with Emily
andy gittins ??/1983 -
Steve Bell ??/1981 -
Hidden ??/1981 Lead
Hidden ?/Nov/80 Lead O/S
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
emdawes, laurence_falconer, Hawkgirl, hutchay, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Ropeboy, Chris Sansum, JamesRich, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Kemics, Hidden, Hidden, stvredmond, explodingsprouts, Urgles, Hidden
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 59
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 57
Votes cast 59
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set