Rockfax Description
An upper wall testpiece that features a hard but well-protected crux. Start at a right-leaning crack, the base of which disappears into a hole in the ramp.
Follow the crack pleasantly to a hand-ledge. Continue more steeply to where it thins, and make a couple of urgent pulls up the wall just left of the crack to an easy finish up a tiny corner. © Rockfax

R Harrison, A Hall 11/Feb/1978

Ticklists: Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, Trad climbs for sport climbers, West Country Climbs.

Bristoldave 13/Sep Lead β
with nick
nickwhimster 13/Sep 2nd dog
clams ?/Jul Lead dog

Led w/ aiders - had to top step at end of crack on a dubious cam placement - exciting!

adam 24 27/Jun Lead O/S
with Caroline
Hidden 27/Jun 2nd dog
tobydunford 18/May Lead β
with Harry Martin
alastairbegley 09/May 2nd dog
with Misha
Misha 09/May Lead dog

Damn, fell off above the crux! Not sure why, probably because a foot slipped. Completely unexpected and very annoying as I was almost on easy ground - had one hand on the break below the easy finishing corner. I was a bit above the gear and pulled Alastair off the ground, so went miles (best part of 10 metres) but didn't hit anything and had a very soft catch (thanks Alastair!). Had to reclimb most of the route! On the original attempt spent a while trying to figure out the crux (especially what to do with the feet), dropping down for a rest off the undercuts above the little ledge a few times. Doing it again after falling off wasn't exactly easy but knowing the moves helped a lot and I did them in a nicely controlled and technical way. Didn't fall off this time! Good route. The crux is an average 6a sequence and it's only about E1 to the little ledge, so overall I'd say an easy E3.

Hidden 07/May Lead RP
richardashe 07/May 2nd dog
Hidden 26/Apr Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Apr Lead rpt
Justin T 07/Mar Lead rpt
with Nancy
Nathan Chrismas 07/Mar 2nd dog
James S 02/Feb 2nd
with geoff
grp ?/Feb Lead RP
quiffhanger 14/Dec/14 Lead G/U

Stupidly rushed the crux first time as it was all getting a bit wet. Luckily the shower passed so pulled the ropes and engaged brain second time.

just one more 08/Oct/14 Lead dog

Still can't do this, fingers too fat for top of crack,feels desperate

with lucas
Tom Brierley Gore 24/Jul/14 Lead dog

Very nice climb, but super hot day and i managed to forget chalk, making the crux way too slippery.

LucasHarazin 01/Jun/14 Lead RP
just one more 01/Jun/14 2nd
with lucas
pheotleyr 18/May/14 2nd β

Only two hard moves, which I thought were very reasonable for 6a. Great climb!

with Simon
Hidden 18/May/14 Lead dog
James S 12/May/14 Lead RP

Woohoo! So happy to get this with relative ease this time after having to aid past the crux on the miserably failed on-sight attempt a couple of weeks ago!

with tom p, dan
Hidden 12/May/14 2nd dog
Dan0Me 12/May/14 2nd
with James S, Tom P
danmullett 03/May/14 Lead β
Jack_F 30/Apr/14 Lead β

On Simons gear, One more wonder, very good none the less!

with Simon
Hidden 29/Apr/14 Lead β
brices 29/Apr/14 Lead RP

Had memories this was very hard from last time so laced the crack with so much gear then walked up the top good to see progress

Cheese Monkey 14/Apr/14 TR dog

Did all the moves eventually. ..

with Shunt
James S 04/Apr/14 Lead dog

Found the crux move very hard today, just couldn't find the good hold in the crack. I've done the move in the past so know I can do it, just being a bit rubbish today, short on time for Tom to get back to work so aided past it to the first crimp and finished from there. Will be back soon!

with tom p
i_a_coops ??/2014 Lead β
with Duggie
BenNorman 12/Sep/13 Lead dog

Fell off at crux on mikes gear

Mike Goldthorp 12/Sep/13 Lead O/S

What a savage! Beaut climbing to start and then BAM! Crux slap to a poor hold, really go-ey but take your pick of the bomber cam placements.

with Ben Norman
shoulders 04/Sep/13 2nd dog

an awful performance on this one. lead to the crux but too pumped after placing gear. on top rope i was even worse. Respect to Rich for a classy dispatch. 6b for shorties.

Hidden 04/Sep/13 Lead rpt
Joughton 21/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Last route of the day, bit tired but didn't find the crux too bad, just had to hang on the edges to the left of the crack.

Hidden 06/Aug/13 Lead rpt
Daniel Heath 25/Jun/13 Lead O/S

One last route to finish the day, quite pumped. 5 class routes in 3 hours!

skippington 22/Jun/13 Lead β

Used partner's gear after he fell; flashed.

Hidden 01/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Alice Thompson 01/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with Michael Porter
tobydunford 21/May/13 2nd β
with Harry Martin
Alex Winter 05/May/13 Lead rpt

Laced it with gear. Nearly muffed the crux.

with James, George
georgeevans88 05/May/13 2nd dnf
with James, Alex Winter
James S 05/May/13 2nd dog

slipped off the lower crack when a jam didnt quite stick and then took a couple goes at the crux. would go clean on lead before too long but not right now, must get stronger!

with george, alex
Alex Winter 29/Apr/13 2nd O/S

Nice one Nick.

with Nick
Nick Russell 29/Apr/13 Lead RP


Kevster 07/Apr/13 Lead RP

2nd go.

Hidden 07/Apr/13 Lead RP
alastairbegley 17/Feb/13 2nd dnf
Hidden 18/Nov/12 Lead
Stanners 15/Nov/12 Lead O/S

By the skin of my teeth, so pleased with the onsight. Just a short section on dreadful crimps and its all over, brilliant!

Nick Russell 11/Nov/12 Lead dog

I'll consider this progress - I actually got to the top on lead this time

Hidden 30/Sep/12 Lead
Luke Dawson 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Garrouli 14/Aug/12 Lead RP
with Northern Pete
BeccaSnowden 03/Aug/12 Lead RP

Took a few attempts as kept just missing the good hold

with Tom
thomasadixon 03/Aug/12 Lead rpt
with Becca
AJM 01/Aug/12 Lead

Ground up, 2nd go. Lots easier as ever once you faff less and climb decisively. Still hard moves though. Got rained on on my first go, and absolutely soaked topping out which was pretty sketchy in places!

Ed Babs 15/Jul/12 Lead RP

Hard and excellent

with Mike Kenne
Nick Russell 05/Jul/12 TR dog

Mirage 3-0 Me

Nick Russell 20/Jun/12 Lead dnf

Took a couple of whippers off the crux, then the third time the cam blew and I decided to call it a day. I'll be back...

with Martin
Billg 09/Jun/12 Lead rpt
with Bob Brewer
Spacetourist 02/Jun/12 Lead rpt
with Lydia
mwatson ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S

thought it was E2 before i started, thought it was soft for the grade at the top was pretty surprised when i was told it was hard E3

Kemics 20/May/12 2nd dog

Feel guilty even logging as a dog. Would be a project to T/R clean, a lead feels a way off. Cool route though, deserves way more than a star.

with Dave 88
Dave 88 20/May/12 Lead dog

Still pumped and scared from the previous route, made a complete hash of this. Had to aid the crux (A2?!), had a micro pop on me which was nice. Felt hard, generally made a dogs arse of things. Not my finest hour!

with Kemics
brices 05/May/12 Lead dog

faffed put in to much gear, got pumped, got scared rested, then fell(let go) then eventually got to the top. unhappy but feel like making progress with committing on trad

Stone Muppet 13/Apr/12 Lead dog

Some joker had tickmarked a hold that was useless, and like a fool I lunged for it. Took the fall - got back on and to the top 2nd try.

with rd
Nick Russell 28/Mar/12 TR dog
Mark Warnett ?/Mar/12 Lead β

on Di's gear to halfway

with Princess Diana
Spacetourist 29/Feb/12 Lead rpt
with Tris, Pete
Hidden 12/Feb/12 2nd rpt
Hidden 28/Jan/12 Lead RP
Toby Dunn 19/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Justin Timms
Justin T 19/Nov/11 2nd
with Toby
JRae 06/Nov/11 2nd
with Arthur
thomasadixon 06/Nov/11 Lead RP

Second go, just couldn't figure it out first time. Easy if you get it right!

with Becca
drcorbasisgod 29/Oct/11 Lead O/S
thomb 08/Oct/11 -
with Gareth
Hidden 09/Sep/11 TR rpt
Adam Lincoln 30/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Si Tappin
cornishben 29/Jun/11 2nd O/S

2nded after failing on lead - too pumped, first trad route for months

with Pippa Froggatt
Dan Jenkin 15/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Rosea Day, Tom Heslam
gazhbo ?/Jun/11 Lead
Jon_Warner 25/May/11 Lead dnf

Spanked. Tip - watching someone else first just makes it more intimidating..... :)

with Dan P
Spacetourist 25/May/11 Lead O/S
with Rosea
Hidden 17/May/11 Lead dnf
Hidden ?/May/11 Lead rpt
Rosea Day ?/Apr/11 2nd O/S
richiebongo 14/Mar/11 Lead RP
with Nick Smith
Justin T 12/Mar/11 Lead dnf

Poor effort, couldn't figure out even roughly where to head on the crux and really struggled to shake off much pump on the ledge below. By the time I came off I was so wasted still couldn't do it even after resting on the rope so down-climbed stripping gear.

richiebongo 08/Mar/11 Lead dog
with Nick Smith
Billg 02/Jan/11 Lead dog

took a few goes to figure the move at the crack top, then found myself runout and pumped !

with Will Calvert
pezzerrr 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Dr Caterpillar 08/Jul/10 TR dog

er, got the moves sussed. Need more stamina before the lead...

with Al
Dr Caterpillar 15/Apr/10 Lead dnf

no chance

with Maddy
Hidden 03/Mar/10 Lead dnf
JulesV 25/Oct/09 2nd O/S
with Will Boxen
Dunx 02/Oct/09 2nd
with Giles, Ru
billb ?/Jul/09 Lead
Marti999 08/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Jun/09 Lead dnf
Paz 14/Feb/09 2nd rpt
with WG
Hidden ??/2009 Lead dog
lukehodson 10/Dec/08 2nd RP

Got it 2nd try. Didn't think the crux was too hard but quite tricky to onsight.

with Howard
Paz 08/Oct/08 2nd rpt
with GD
Paz 15/Aug/08 2nd rpt
with WG
Paz 08/Aug/08 2nd rpt
with WG
Hidden 30/Jul/08 Lead RP
Paz 30/Jul/08 2nd rpt
with WG
Paz 25/Jul/08 2nd rpt
with WG
Paz 23/Jul/08 Lead rpt

There was some gear left in but I removed it all on lead and placed my own.

with WG
feilx 22/Dec/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Marcus ??/2006 -
Paz 18/Sep/05 Lead RP

Third day on... Muppet. At least I've got it pretty wired now.

with RJ
Paz 09/Sep/05 Lead dog

Hurray I actually fell off!

with AS
shark 11/Jun/05 Lead O/S
with Pete
Hidden ?/Jun/05 Lead dnf
Paz 31/May/05 Lead dnf

Jumped off so many times I made a fool out of myself. A kind passing celebrity retrieved my (bomber) gear

with TS
just one more 29/May/05 Lead dog
with Svenn G
phsharpy ??/2005 Lead RP

took a 60ft whipper on the first attempt and then got back on it and finished it. Thanks Nick for the belay!

with Nick Ingram
_m.cox_ ?/Mar/04 Lead O/S
with Adam Mulholland
Hidden ??/2003 Lead
Jim Brooke ??/2001 2nd dnf
with Rich
Hidden ??/2000 -
Tim M ??/2000 Lead dog
John Southworth 19/Jun/99 Lead O/S
with Stone Elworthy
Hidden ??/1999 -
Hidden ??/1994 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/93 Lead β
mattnuttall 06/Mar/93 2nd O/S
with Alan Holden
Nigel Coe ??/1992 2nd

I fell several times.

with Ray Mardon
mark-abz 04/Nov/90 2nd
with Dan W
Pete Ogden ??/1990 Lead
keefe 21/Aug/88 -
Hidden 06/Dec/86 2nd dog
frank ramsay ?/Jul/86 Lead O/S

Quite lungy and blind on the crux.

stp 04/Jun/83 Lead

3 falls.

Steve Bell ??/1981 -
Hidden ??/1981 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Kipper-Phil Smith, Hidden, Hidden, Jordanh031, Owen W-G, s.c.white, Hidden, andy dunn, explodingsprouts, Bux
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 34
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 33
Votes cast 31
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set