Rancho Cucamonga* E3 5c
[Alex chalking up just before the top of Rancho, 2 kb]

Rockfax Description
Smart climbing that is low in the grade. Start at a pocketed yellow streak just left of Banshee's thin crack.
Reach up to the pockets and take these to a peg. Move up to another peg on the right (on Banshee) and make a long move to a flat hold at the base of a slim groove, peg. Climb the left wall of the groove to meet a horizontal crack and finish on good holds to the right. Cable abseil station above and left. © ROCKFAX

G A Jenkin, M Ward, M J Crocker, T Penning 03/Jun/1989

Ticklists: Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs.

Photo: Alex chalking up just before the top of Rancho © Nick Russell
View all 4 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 173 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

First E3 lead. On pre-placed gear and in the drizzle. Nice route I thought.
felixizzy - Lead β - 20/Jul/15 with Mike

kenneM - 2nd O/S - 30/May/15 with Chris

One to lead
Cheese Monkey - 2nd β - 28/May/15 with Peter M

Hidden - Lead dnf - 27/May/15

Slipped of a foothold at the very start through lack of concentration. So started again and made it clean. Though it was quite pumpy. Small but good crimpers.
Katsmiff - 2nd dog - 10/May/15 with Martin Bagshaw

just didn't make that one hard move.
Martin Bagshaw - Lead dog - 10/May/15 with Catherine Smith

Legs - 2nd O/S - 10/Mar/15

Pumpy! Nice introduction to the grade.
thom_jenkinson - 2nd dog - 27/Feb/15 with Nick Russell, Rebs

Nice route to get a pump on.
Nick Russell - Lead rpt - 27/Feb/15 with Thom Jenkinson, Rebs

went wrong handed seconding crux so hung on rope, need to come back for the lead now! definatley worth some stars
hankyc - 2nd dog - 12/Oct/14

Ricky Rocks - 2nd rpt - 20/Aug/14 with Dan Hobbs

daniel hobbs - Lead - Aug/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/14

brices - Lead rpt - 22/Jul/14 with Remus

Hidden - TR O/S - 03/Jul/14

pheotleyr - 2nd β - 01/Jul/14 with Peter Milner

andy dunn - 2nd - 13/Jun/14 with Tom

LucasHarazin - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/14

just one more - 2nd - 01/Jun/14 with lucas

Alex Winter - Lead rpt - 26/May/14 with A. Monks, M. Gibbings

Pumpy pumpy. Especially straight after Banshee.
squicky - TR dog - 15/May/14 with PeteM

tobydunford - Lead β - 02/Apr/14 with Harry Martin

Hidden - Lead dog - 23/Mar/14

Hidden - 2nd dog - 23/Mar/14

2nd a few weeks ago.
Ollie B - Lead rpt - 16/Feb/14 with O.Lancett

Fine up to crux :(
Cheese Monkey - TR dog - 30/Dec/13 with Neil

Hottest day of the year. Sweated like a bastard.
Alex Winter - Lead rpt - 13/Jul/13 with Jonathan

Very nice. Sustained and interesting, keeps on coming...
skippington - Lead β - 22/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead RP - 24/May/13

AJM - 2nd rpt - 24/May/13 with Helen Seaborne

AlexD - 2nd - 06/May/13 with Ed

Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 06/May/13 with AlexD

Very sustained. Got foot stuck in crack, hence two rests on pegs. Very hot day.
Derek Ryden - Lead dog - May/13 with David Coley

Second try. Got above the crux on the first go and then fannied about until I was too boxed to carry on. Felt fine next go. Good route.
Alex Winter - Lead - 29/Apr/13 with Nick

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/13

Nice climb, took it pretty steady. Made a false start on the top (too far left) but sorted myself out after a rest
Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/13 with Alex Winter

Hidden - Lead rpt - 20/Apr/13

Kevster - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/13

alastairbegley - 2nd dog - 17/Feb/13 with Neil Morbey

HarryB - TR dog - 12/Feb/13 with Shunt

Fell first attempt. Clean 2nd and 3rd. Time for a lead...just really didnt like the look of the pegs.
Kemics - TR RP - 08/Dec/12

grp - Lead O/S - 01/Dec/12

Good stuff, sequency crux on pockets n little crimps up to the flat hold, rest is fairly straightforward, felt nice n steady
Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 15/Nov/12 with Andy

shoulders - 2nd - 11/Nov/12 with rich smith

So close to the onsight! (got 2nd go ground up) Deserves at least one star.
BeccaSnowden - Lead RP - 21/Oct/12 with Tom

Hidden - Lead β - 22/Sep/12

Brian H - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/12 with Kafoozalem

James Marshall - Lead rpt - 18/Sep/12 with Donald

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/12

Heart not in it: gave up at the first peg - wasn't pumped
cem - Lead dnf - 06/Sep/12 with Chris Parson

cem - 2nd β - 06/Sep/12 with Chris Parson

drcorbasisgod - Lead rpt - Sep/12 with Charles Moreton

s.c.white - 30/Aug/12 with Dave Simpson

Pete Rigby - Lead rpt - 22/Aug/12 with Fez

Garrouli - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/12 with Northern Pete

Pete Rigby - Lead dnf - 14/Aug/12 with Gary

Need to work on commitment on trad more still. Got quite pumped, but hung in there and got it sorted in the end.
AJM - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/12 with Tomar

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Aug/12

mikeshewring - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/12

Jim Brooke - 2nd dog - 09/Jun/12 with Rich

Spacetourist - Lead rpt - 02/Jun/12 with Lydia

tombeasley - 2nd β - 31/May/12

Pippa - Lead O/S - 21/May/12 with Amy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/12

_m.cox_ - Lead rpt - 16/Mar/12 with Spacetourist

Good route, deserves a star, but no way is it E3, E2 max.
Spacetourist - Lead O/S - 16/Mar/12 with Matt Cox

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/12

al99 - Lead dog - 17/Jan/12 with Mike Coles

Very cold, freezing hands. Good route.
frank ramsay - Lead - 18/Dec/11 with Aaron

Aaron Lines - 2nd - 18/Dec/11 with frank ramsay

Very nearly blew it at the top soo soo pumped trying to read the final sequence. Onsight/ Flash, Rob gave me plenty of beta but I had to improvise a little in places since it didn't turn out to be quite how I had pictured. First E3 in this style.
Quarryboy - Lead β - 27/Nov/11 with Rob Stanfield

Was pretty tired and really struggled but another good effort by Rob.
JamesRich - 2nd dnf - 19/Nov/11 with Rob stanfield

Had a look whilst abbing from 'banshee'. Decided it was game on when I got back down. Not much harder than banshee so "soft in the grade" felt right. Soooo pleased once I was at the top, I felt on top of the world. First E3 lead. Good move to the flat hold half way up!
Stanners - Lead β - 19/Nov/11 with James Rich

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 12/Nov/11 with Sophie Nunn

Sophie Nunn - 2nd dog - 12/Nov/11 with Toby

drcorbasisgod - Lead O/S - 29/Oct/11 with Tom Gibbison

Great fluid climbing throughout
Jack_F - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/11

Hidden - Lead rpt - 14/Oct/11

Ricky Rocks - Lead rpt - 13/Oct/11 with matty

This wall always feels more pumpy than I'd expect.
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/11 with Quico

LisaA - 2nd dog - 27/Aug/11 with Alistair, Andy

AlistairB - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/11 with Andy Janezko, Lisa

bigdrew - 2nd O/S - 27/Aug/11 with Alistair, Lisa

andy dunn - Lead rpt - 05/Aug/11 with Mike, Darren

andy dunn - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/11 with Tom, J

Mark Warnett - Lead O/S - Aug/11

Gibbo - TR - 01/Jul/11 with Kev Little, Maddy moore

Adam Lincoln - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/11 with Si Tappin

Looked at the line and gear placements while abing off Banshee. Good route.
Tomar - Lead β - 14/Jun/11 with Tom

tommytuffa - Lead β - 14/Jun/11 with tomar

lukehodson - Lead rpt - 24/May/11 with Sam Howell

Hidden - Lead RP - 21/May/11

Felt much easier this time round. Good route.
Jon_Warner - Lead RP - 19/May/11 with Dan P

No warm up, got flash pump, tried to downclimb, couldn't. A good safe route and one to lead without rests next time.
Jon_Warner - Lead dog - 17/May/11 with Dan P

Perhaps I missed something (or went too direct?) but the top scoop felt desperate at 5c
lukehodson - Lead O/S - 08/May/11 with Charlotte

Hidden - Lead rpt - 04/May/11

clams - TR RP - May/11

Hidden - Lead rpt - May/11

richiebongo - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/11 with Nick Smith

Got very pumped worrying about the cams in the break. Then I put a nut in and it was OK
eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead O/S - 06/Feb/11 with Gaz

Billg - Lead O/S - 02/Jan/11 with Will Calvert

Backed off first moves a couple of years ago. Otherwise onsight today.
Richard Hall - Lead O/S - 13/Dec/10 with Chris Savage

started raining half way up top moves a bit slippy fun getting down the ramp after
brices - Lead O/S - 19/Oct/10 with Lil_Pete

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Aug/10

just one more - Lead - 08/Aug/10 with tony l, tim b

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/10

Jessie Rushbrooke - 2nd - 22/Apr/10 with GF

Greg Pittam - 2nd β - 07/Apr/10 with Raff, Clare Richardson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/10

Phil PBC - 2010

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Aug/09

first E3 lead.
scorpia97 - Lead rpt - 27/Aug/09 with Caspian

James Marshall - 2nd - 21/Aug/09

Greg Pittam - Lead dog - 17/Aug/09 with Livi

Al Franks - 2nd O/S - 08/Aug/09 with Doug

Alasdair88 - 2nd O/S - 08/Aug/09 with Doug

Hidden - Lead rpt - 28/Jun/09

Marti999 - Lead β - 08/Jun/09 with Mark Glaister

Bored of the same old warm ups, this was a mini big link type expedition, Who Me to skyhookable jug, let into Banshee, up to it's jug left of crack and left to pegs on it and Rancho, following that to its crack then exiting leftwards as for Um Bongo and hand traversing the top of the crag to take in the exit move of Us. Then shake out your pump and finish up Stayin' Alive.
Paz - Lead - 23/Apr/09 with WG

billb - Lead O/S - Apr/09 with Rich Smith

Bristoldave - Lead rpt - 19/Mar/09 with Protheroe

Bern - Lead rpt - 01/Mar/09

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 10/Jan/09

scorpia97 - 2nd - 24/Dec/08 with Will Goldsmith

Paz - TR rpt - 23/Nov/08 with BJ

Paz - 2nd rpt - 24/Oct/08 with WG

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 12/Sep/08

Paz - 2nd rpt - 15/Aug/08 with WG

Paz - Lead rpt - 08/Aug/08 with WG

Hidden - Lead rpt - 26/Jul/08

Trying a direct finish.
Paz - Lead dog - 26/Jul/08 with WG

Paz - Lead rpt - 23/Jul/08 with WG

Had a long rest at the final bolt. Really good route, nice and pumpy
Lev - Lead dog - 08/Jun/08 with Emma Ross

Hidden - 2nd dog - 08/Jun/08

Hmm, could have been my first E3, but may have strayed a bit too far L at the top- guidebook says a 'tight line' and on abseil discovered it can be done more directly.
Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/08 with CarolineH

CarolineH - 2nd dog - 04/Jun/08 with Dave

Hidden - Lead dog - Jun/08

Hidden - 2008

Paz - Lead rpt - 23/Nov/07 with HL

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/07

Hidden - Lead - 26/Jun/07

Hidden - 2nd dog - May/07

Hidden - May/07

Paul Robertson - Lead dog - 08/Sep/06 with Paz

Hidden - Lead rpt - 19/Jun/06

Paz - Lead rpt - 09/May/06 with AS

Finished out left, via top of diagonal crack, not sure if this is the route?!
cornishben - Lead dog - 24/Apr/06 with Chris Sims

chris sm - 2nd O/S - 24/Apr/06 with Ben Sutton

At night(!)
Paz - Lead dog - 16/Mar/06 with AS

Bern - 2006

Jo McCready - 2006

Paz - Lead rpt - 05/Oct/05 with RJ

Hidden - Lead rpt - Sep/05

had a tight rope
JamieAyres - 2nd dog - Sep/05 with Nick Ingram

just one more - Lead - 12/Jun/05 with Max B, Svenn G

clean from the ground with gear in after slipping off the largest (smooth, slanty) hold on the route.
Paz - Lead RP - 19/Apr/05 with PE

joe_alexander - 2nd dog - 09/Mar/05 with Nick Gillette

tom.e - 2nd O/S - 2005

phsharpy - Lead O/S - 2005 with Simon Kimber

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Dec/04

_m.cox_ - Lead O/S - Jul/04 with Tom Harrison

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/May/04

Hidden - Lead - 2003

simon kimber - 2nd - 2002 with Tony Penning, Gavin Cytlau

John Southworth - Lead - 03/Jul/01 with Jason Parker

Hidden - 2000

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

Hidden - 1999

Hidden - Lead - 1998

Some of the holds bite back.
lowersharpnose - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/94 with Libby

AndySL - TR O/S - 18/Jul/93 with Tim

Pete Ogden - Lead - 1990

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
ashtond6, Owen W-G, Ropeboy, Kemics

Total votes cast 105
hard E40 of 35
E40 of 35
easy E40 of 35
hard E33 of 35
E319 of 35
easy E312 of 35
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easy 6a1 of 36
hard 5c4 of 36
5c29 of 36
easy 5c1 of 36
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Style of ascent
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