Rockfax Description
An eliminate up the wall with a couple of fierce fingery moves. © Rockfax

Gary Gibson 1978

MSchobitz 26/May 2nd O/S
JamieSparkes 26/May Lead O/S

Joke grade, perhaps hvs 5a?

morganator 11/May Lead rpt
with Dave Hollinger
RM199 04/May 2nd O/S
tebs 20/Apr 2nd O/S
with Burns
Dan Hostford 19/Apr Lead O/S
Jotrendell 19/Apr 2nd
Hidden 25/Mar 2nd
scarmichael 12/Mar Lead O/S
with Steve Wooton
DoctorYoghourt ??/2016 -
svdie 15/Oct/15 Lead dog
Hidden 15/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Zolly Whitaker 15/Aug/15 2nd dog
with Dan Murray
Graeme Hammond 10/Jun/15 Lead rpt

Climbed this just beforehand on 2nd after taking gear out on Prudence, and thought it was worth leading so did it straight afterwards. Good moves on positive holds and as you move away from your gear it feels more independent than it looks.

Nick Wallis 20/May/15 2nd β
with Mark Whitworth
ralphio 07/May/15 Lead O/S
with Nik
cragtyke 07/May/15 2nd

not clean

with Mark W
buxtoncoffeelover 07/May/15 2nd

Rest point

with Ralph
Mark Warnett ?/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Apr/15 2nd
Mark Warnett ?/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Dec/14 2nd O/S
bryce.dorin 06/Dec/14 Lead O/S

First E1, no idea why I choose this one...pretty scary

with dunnyg
Hidden 31/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 18/Aug/14 Lead
jshields 30/Mar/14 Lead
TonyF 30/Mar/14 2nd
Andy Peak 1 16/Feb/14 Lead

Fell upwards when I grabed the wet brak, only just held it

with phill ukc
the power 16/Feb/14 2nd dog


with Andy
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
Stone Muppet 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with ab
jon22 29/Sep/13 Lead
manxclare 29/Sep/13 2nd
with jon22
Hidden 28/Sep/13 Lead O/S
deacondeacon 30/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Wayne S 30/Aug/13 2nd
with Deacon
steve prior ?/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Andy C
willsm11 02/Sep/12 2nd β
Twisty 02/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Very nice crimpy moves. The crimps are there you just can't see them!

jwpil 28/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Jon
Cake 26/Jul/12 Lead O/S

After Howard took two nice 5m falls, I led mainly on his gear

with Howard
richardashe 27/May/12 Lead dog

Had two falls trying to move from the one finger pocket. Found it felt very runout even after completing the sequence right of the crack where you get good gear in, though maybe I just didn't have the right size of cams left. Good climb but, will definitely try and get it clean next time I'm at popular.

Hidden 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Viki 24/Mar/12 2nd dog

sight rest at crux

hippymagic 13/Mar/12 TR O/S
with Pete Barrass, Jessica
Hidden 11/Mar/12 Lead rpt
Hidden ??/2012 -
Tom Keaveny 09/Nov/11 TR O/S
with mfisher
drysori 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S

Sort of, I left the crack too late, so basically did Prudence with my feet in the crack, about HVS.

with JenW
Hidden 30/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Oct/11 2nd dog
Hidden 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Woodiee 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Rose Boyce
jcook1980 18/Sep/11 2nd
with Leo
leohl 18/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Rachel Slater 15/Sep/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 14/Jul/11 Lead
w.pettet-smith 15/Jun/11 Lead

as it says on the tin. eliminate, fingery. good though.

with claire jane carter
gingerwolf 30/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/11 2nd dog
steveb2006 03/Apr/11 Lead

Make a mental note to avoid Stanage popular on a sunday in future - noisy and crowded. Go up to Apparent North area after - do problems on The Cube and Huge Slab before it rains

with Tim Cairns
dj_brigham05 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S
alex_arthur 19/Mar/11 2nd dog
with David Brigham
uphillnow ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
jfane ??/2011 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Dec/10 -
Speeddemonsi 18/Oct/10 Lead β
Hidden 22/Aug/10 Lead dnf
djones66 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Crux moves felt very thin indeed. Luckily the gear below is excellent, but by the time you've finished the crux, it feels a long way off. Only thing not so good on this route is that its a wee bit contrived - i.e. you could so easily escape left, or make it easier for yourself by going up the diagonal crack a bit before moving right. The crux moves gave me bit of a buzz,though.

with Chloe
grubes 01/Aug/10 2nd
with Nick
brices 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S
morganator 28/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Si Cooke, Martin Cooper
Hidden 22/Jul/10 2nd rpt
jacobjacob 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S
mattcyp88 20/Jun/10 Lead β
with Jacob Cook
Hidden 15/Jun/10 Lead O/S
adam carless 11/Jun/10 TR O/S

unknown pair of friendly climbers next to us while we were on Black Hawk offered me a go as 3rd man up on this route.

with dpmuk
morganator 27/May/10 Lead O/S
with James Hall
Harry Holmes 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S

I really like this climb. My first proper E1

rustyclimber91 24/Apr/10 2nd O/S
tom.e 12/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Mr Powly 12/Apr/10 Lead
with Rozzy, Tom Everett
migs493 07/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Jon L
Hidden 07/Apr/10 Lead O/S
r.greaves 27/Mar/10 2nd
with James Walker
Hidden 14/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Adam Potter 14/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
Hidden 02/Nov/09 -
thomasadixon 14/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Bold and surprisingly independant, merits stars.

with Lisa, Alan
mic_b 19/Jul/09 Lead rpt
with Michelle
Michelle_250 19/Jul/09 2nd
with Mike
willoates ?/Jul/09 TR β
Hidden 23/Apr/09 2nd
Nicos 01/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with matt bates, nick willis, si
Hidden 01/Apr/09 2nd O/S
koopa ??/2009 -
Andrew Barker ?/Dec/08 Lead O/S

Hard moves on small holds - did it the same day as Black Hawk Bastion and couldn't feel my fingers.

with Chunk
Brown 10/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Bridget
bridget143 10/Sep/08 2nd dog

One fall but put the moves together from below.

with Brown
Duncan I 04/Jul/08 Lead

Foot traversed the crack so more like 5b

steveb2006 21/May/08 Lead
with Pete Riley, Paul Eastwood
gingerdave13 16/Feb/08 Lead dnf

very thin pull, so much that i didn't complete it. Can vouch for bomber gear tho.. no 5 nut took the brunt!

with stig
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
Billg ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Dave Gregory
FrankW 16/Jun/07 2nd O/S
with bigphil
Hidden ??/2007 -
steveb2006 14/Oct/06 Lead
with Pete Carter
Hidden ?/Sep/06 Lead
ArnaudG ??/2006 -
Hidden ?/Nov/05 Lead dog
dannyboy83 ?/May/05 Solo O/S
jamie ward ?/Sep/04 2nd O/S
with Chris Comrie
Chris M 01/Jun/04 Lead O/S

Really good, should be in the Eastern grit.

with Dan G
steveb2006 01/May/04 Lead
with Roland Smith
Jon Greengrass ??/2002 Lead O/S
with reeeve
steveb2006 15/Aug/01 2nd
with Roland Smith
Hidden 03/Jun/01 Lead O/S
Martin Bennett 27/May/01 -
with MT, SW, Phil
Hidden 25/May/01 Lead
DubyaJamesDubya 30/Jun/00 Lead O/S

Met up with Mick + Caroline

with Naomi Walker
steveb2006 24/May/00 2nd

Roland leads

with Angela Pingram, Roland Smith
Carl Smethurst 12/Mar/00 2nd
with Ian Pickles
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Bug ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
akhughes ??/2000 -
Carl Smethurst 16/Oct/99 2nd
with Ian Pickles, Los Kenny
CrashMat Rob 26/Jun/99 2nd

Dave lead

with Dave, Nicky
Hidden 16/May/99 AltLd
CrashMat Rob 02/May/99 Lead O/S
with Martin Smith, Nicky
Simon Pearce ??/1999 -
Chris the Tall ?/Sep/98 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1998 -
plain kitten ?/Sep/97 -
Stoney Boy 07/Jul/97 2nd O/S
with Darren Stevenson
steveb2006 25/Jan/97 2nd

Had backed off this an hour earlier but its dry now

with Neville Contractor
Jon Read ??/1997 Lead O/S
Chris Ellis ??/1996 2nd
with Chris Barnes
Hidden 04/Jun/95 Lead
Hidden 31/May/95 Lead
Hidden 07/Jul/94 Lead
steveb2006 03/Jul/94 Lead dog

Slip off on fingery crux - hot and sticky - not exactly ideal grit conditions

with Corine Eade, Jo Pycroft
robtrooper ??/1994 Lead
Hidden 29/May/93 Lead
Roget 02/Jan/93 Lead O/S
with Jonathan T
IanD353 ??/1993 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
steveb2006 04/Oct/92 Lead
Hidden 05/Sep/92 2nd
Hidden 29/Aug/92 2nd
K1 ?/Jul/92 -
Hidden 27/Sep/91 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jun/91 2nd
sadams 01/Mar/91 2nd
with Kev Mellieu
steve taylor ?/Mar/91 2nd
with stumpy
NeilGriffiths ??/1991 -
with Simon Jones
Hidden 03/Sep/90 Lead
NickJH ?/Jul/90 2nd
with I Smith, D Townsend
AB1965 09/Apr/90 Lead
steveb2006 17/Mar/90 Lead

Martin W belays

BigHairyIan 03/Sep/89 Lead O/S
with Martin (from South America)
Dave Musgrove 08/Feb/89 -
with Frank Wilkinson, David
Dave Musgrove Jnr 08/Feb/89 -
with Dad
Hidden 11/Sep/88 2nd
goi.ashmore 02/May/88 Solo O/S
steveb2006 21/Feb/88 Lead
with John Bradley
Rob Davies ?/Jul/87 2nd
with Mick Moss, Brian Hannon
Hidden 23/May/87 2nd O/S
Moses 27/Sep/86 Lead O/S
Tom V 29/Aug/86 Lead
with Howie Darwin
GordonHart ??/1986 Solo O/S
KRB 12/Mar/85 Lead O/S
with Mike Bridges
mike bridges 12/Mar/85 2nd O/S
stp 16/Feb/85 Solo O/S
Dave Musgrove 16/Aug/84 -
Hidden 14/Apr/84 2nd
Canyak ??/1973 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
marconi, Hidden, Hidden
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 23
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 21
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set