Rockfax Description
Start as for Gargoyle Buttress but climb the right-hand side of the upper slab precariously on poor holds and with scant gear. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Stanage E1 Challenge (1989 Guide), Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day.

buxtoncoffeelover 20/Oct TR

Rich lead Gargoyle Buttress, Tom seconded, so I got on Dry Rot with a rope from above. No falls, never desperate, but falling from halfway on a lead would be disastrous. Quite dirty rock with lots of flaky lichen & 'bits'. Not on my 'must return to' list

Dankirk2015 20/Aug Solo RP
Dawlish 03/Aug TR
with neil
cragtyke 07/May 2nd
with Mark W
Mark Warnett ?/May Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Apr TR
mike8331 18/Mar Lead

hard for the grade !!

Hidden 06/Dec/14 Lead O/S
bryce.dorin 06/Dec/14 2nd O/S
with dunnyg
dr_botnik 30/Sep/14 TR rpt
spenser 23/Sep/14 2nd O/S

Definitely worth 2 stars, nice technical moves but gear to protect the upper section would be very hard to place for the short. Definitely going to be a while before I lead this!

with Lee
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 01/Sep/14 -
dannyboy83 27/Jul/14 Solo O/S
with Lena, Ben Ochner, Shane Donnelly
LakesWinter 05/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with John Cooper, Wil
Hidden 01/Jun/14 2nd
Graeme Hammond 10/Apr/14 Lead O/S
fjg123 ?/Mar/14 -
Andy Peak 1 16/Feb/14 Lead

nice wish id had the conference to just push on at the top!

with phill ukc
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
Matthew Ferrier 23/Nov/13 Lead

Went the wrong way. Broke a hold. Annoying. 2nd go.

with Micki
friendzone1234 ?/Oct/13 Lead O/S
dr_botnik 18/Feb/13 2nd O/S
deacondeacon 18/Feb/13 Lead O/S

Managed to put a bit of gear in on the left hand side of the slab and not sure if it's in, although felt every bit E2.

Joughton 15/Sep/12 2nd O/S
adam carless 28/Jun/12 TR O/S

only just clean, but then I did completely fluff how to start the arete and ended up in the middle of nowhere on evil slopers.

with Arctic Jen
Hidden 02/May/12 Lead
mksmith35 31/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Tom Kirby
Ram MkiV 30/Mar/12 Solo O/S
Hidden 20/Mar/12 Lead O/S
jacktomlinson ??/2012 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Skell 25/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Jules
MD 11/Jun/11 2nd O/S

Roger lead Gargoyle Buttress so I followed up dry rot. I felt secure on the route so should come back and lead.

JamieSparkes 08/May/11 Lead O/S
Dafydd Llywelyn 08/May/11 2nd O/S
with Jamie
PaulMJClark 08/May/11 TR O/S
joemallia 22/Apr/11 2nd dog

After Hoosh led Gargoyle Buttress and Fidel went next and stripped the gear. Misread the move onto the slab taking it too early.

with Hooshang Amiri, Fidel Sciamanna
uphillnow ??/2011 -
Hidden ?/Dec/10 -
Hidden 15/Oct/10 Lead O/S
beckywecky 15/Oct/10 2nd dog


beeson_paul 16/Mar/10 2nd
beeson_paul 16/Mar/10 Lead
jon clayton 10/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Paul Beeson
jon clayton 10/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Paul Beeson
Hidden ?/Jan/09 -
nadeem ?/Jan/09 2nd β
with Tom Foote
Mr Powly 06/Jun/08 Lead
tom.e 05/Jun/08 Lead O/S
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
mic_b 16/Nov/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jun/07 -
Hidden 26/Apr/07 2nd rpt
Mutl3y 26/Apr/07 Lead
with TonyM
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden 28/May/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/May/04 2nd
Hidden 15/Aug/01 Lead
Hidden 25/May/01 2nd
Hidden 18/Aug/00 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden 08/Aug/99 2nd
Chris the Tall ?/May/99 TR

Had fallen off trying to lead - route is a sandbag

Hidden 04/Apr/99 Lead
Hidden 01/May/97 Lead
Hidden 25/Jan/97 Lead
neilh 12/May/96 Lead
with Neil Smith
Rich Kirby ??/1996 -
Hidden 29/Oct/95 2nd
John Southworth 16/Jul/95 Solo O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/94 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1993 Solo
Roget 25/Jun/91 Solo O/S
NeilGriffiths ??/1991 -
Hidden 03/Sep/90 Lead
NickJH ?/Jul/90 2nd
with I Smith, D Townsend
Hidden 08/Apr/90 Lead
Hidden 09/Jun/89 Lead
Stoney Boy 02/Oct/88 2nd O/S
with Colin Hughes
Rob Davies 10/Jul/88 2nd
phardman 07/May/88 Lead
with John Lloyd
Tom V 28/Jul/86 2nd
with Howie Darwin
Hidden 26/Apr/86 Lead
Dave Musgrove 27/Oct/85 -
KRB 12/Mar/85 Lead O/S
with Mike Bridges
mike bridges 12/Mar/85 2nd O/S
nigehughes ?/Aug/84 Lead
with Vince Elias
Canyak ??/1973 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 18
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 18
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set