470m, 12 pitches.

Rockfax Description
(The West Pillar) The normal ascent time is 6 to 8 hours although an efficient team should manage it in less. From the parking area on Route 816, follow a small path up grassy slopes and scree for 10 minutes towards the right-hand base of Presten, and the start of a steep water-washed gully filled with grass and some loose blocks. Begin approximately 20m to the left of this, up the central one of three shallow corners.
1) 5+, 45m. Climb up a right-slanting groove for 15m, then traverse left 10m across an easy ledge to a nice crack which leads to a small ledge with fixed belay.
2) 6-, 40m. Start up a small groove, followed by more broken ground leading to a flake/block on the left. Climb this, then make a hard move up into a thin finger-crack which leads to easier climbing up a crack to a fixed belay.
3) 6, 50m. Climb straight up the narrow groove (hard but safe) by thin finger jamming and laybacking. At its top, head left up a diagonal ramp which leads to a fixed belay and small stance.
4) 5-, 20m. Continue up a short wall and groove then easy slabs to a fixed belay on the right edge of Storhylla.
5) 4, 30m. Move right across the ledge, climb cracks up the right side of the huge block to a belay on its top.
6) 6-, 45m. Climb straight up thin cracks and neat grooves to another good ledge, then traverse 20m left across the ledge (some rope drag and loose rock) to a belay on a higher ledge to the left below a superb looking groove.
7) 6, 45m. Difficult moves lead up the shallow groove. Follow the flake above until it becomes a thin crack, then step left into a parallel crack system. Climb straight up the fine sustained crack into the big left-facing groove and take a semi-hanging belay above a bulge in the corner.
8) 5+, 40m. Continue laybacking up the groove then head right up an easier slabby groove and belay on either of two ledges at the base of the Slanting Corner.
9) 6, 40m. The Slanting Corner. Layback and jam the right-leaning groove - sustained and awkward, especially with a sack on - to a tiny ledge. After a rest, continue up left then back right (or up the thin vertical crack on the right - harder) and belay up to the right at a block.
10) 4+, 30m. Climb up and left across ledges to a large loose flake jammed in a groove. Climb carefully up and right past the flake, then continue left up a chimney groove to reach a small belay ledge with several blocks.
11) 5, 35m. Follow the open groove up and right to its top, then move down and right for several metres, before traversing horizontally right past a fixed peg and make delicate moves around right into the grassy exit gully.
12) 3, 55m. Scramble up the grassy gully to the top. © Rockfax

Paul Figg 29/Jul AltLd O/S

Probably the best multi pitch route you'll ever do.

with Rachel Antill
Pippa 13/Jul AltLd O/S

12 hours. Cycled to the crag racked up. Pip lead odd pitches. Technical crux on pitch 7 moving from one crack to another (rope behind my leg mid move). Slanting crack intimidating but steady. Scary run out horizontally across the slab at the top. Beautiful views. Stunning day.

jonnie3430 05/Jul AltLd O/S
with Pete
Dave Rumney 18/Jun AltLd

Fantastic route, world class climbing for 9 pitches. Only one other party ahead and they were several pitches up. A strong cross wind and building cloud from the north during the middle pitches made it feel quite serious there. Topped out in late evening sunshine. A sea eagle flew past, flashing it's white tail by way of salute. Amazing

with Tanya Milner
Little AndyH 06/Jun AltLd dnf

Bailed after a rain storm and high winds came in on pitch 7

TommyKips ?/Jun 2nd dog

Gear got stuck twice had to hang on rope to get them out, asides from that the climbing was clean :'( wasn't even the harder pitches!

PhilipO ?/Jun AltLd O/S
with Alfred L
JuneBob 10/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Led the even pitches plus pitch 11. Awesome climb, great outing.

with Odd Rune
Andy Nisbet 09/Aug/14 AltLd
with Dave McGimpsey
Timothy Miller 17/Jul/14 AltLd dnf
plain kitten ?/Jul/14 Lead


ad111 ?/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/14 AltLd
Stefan_Morris 24/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Varied, sustained and absolutely bloody amazing!!

with jenny
MadProfessor 09/Aug/13 AltLd

A simply brilliant route. We were 9hrs on the climb, 12hrs car to car and thought the crux was P7 and technically might just nudge 5c for a few moves, but excellent protection. Stunning situations. One of the best.

with Mr Vaughan
Hidden 26/Jul/13 AltLd
Hidden 26/Jul/13 AltLd rpt
cameron_hall 19/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

An amazing climb, especially pitches 8 and 9. Led pitches 2, 4, 6, 8, 9, 11. A great day of climbing.

chrisallan 19/Jul/13 AltLd dog

By some margin the best climb i have ever done. Absolutely blown away by the quality. Led 1,3,5,7(dogged),10,12

will_benfold 19/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Led odd-numbered pitches, so got all three n6 sections. Pitch after pitch of excellent climbing, save for the exit gully of P12!

with Aeron Buchanan
mes32 19/Jul/13 AltLd

Incredible! Pitch after pitch of sustained, brilliant climbing. 1/4/5/8/10/12.

with Chris Bull
Kemics 14/Jul/13 Lead dnf

Geordie was pysched so tried to go for it. But forecast was for rain. Climbed first 5 pitches (to the big ledge) then one more after the bolts but decided to downclimb after a cam got stuck a wasted time. Bailed and got down just before massive rain storm. Perfect anti climax to washout trip. Honestly...the route was fantastic (or the pitches I got to) but Lofoten is just too much of weather gamble. 2 weeks of rain. Dont bother.

with Geordie
Hidden ?/Jul/13 Lead O/S
ferdia 19/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with Rozzy
klipkabouter ?/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

took a nice 30 ft whipper landing on John when my foot slipped mid post crux move on pitch 7

with John Vous
James Oswald ?/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Simply the best days climbing I've ever had. It took 11.5 hours overall but we were very chilled out and leisurely. Clare lead P1, me P2. Clare then fell off the 1st crux pitch on lead after claiming that her gear wasn't very good. It was fine and perfectly bomber. I strung P4 and P5 together. Clare then got the rope caught climbing P6 and I had to take coils... yay... After telling me that the belay wasn't very good I got really gripped seconding P7 and trying to get Clare's cam out. I then lead P8 awfully, feeling gripped the entire time. We had a long break before I lead the big corner to let my toes recover (knackered feet). The slanting corner was totally amazing, great climbing. The next pitch was horrible, that loose block REALLY needs trundling because otherwise it will kill someone. THe final proper traverse pitch was absolutely amazing. A totally awesome days climbing. Ace

with Clare Erskine
Coel Hellier 30/Jul/12 AltLd
victim of mathematics 29/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Led P2, 5, 9+12. First E2. Can't imagine a better day's climbing.

with Julie, Andy
climbingpixie 29/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1, 4, 7 & 11. Superb route, best I've ever done. The three crux pitches were brilliant and varied but all the climbing in between is also fantastic. What a great day!

with Colin, Andy
Hidden 29/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Jun/12 AltLd dog
Hidden 06/Jun/12 AltLd
Hidden 06/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Gibson27 ?/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Took 9 hours. Amazing route and steady climbing the whole way. Great belays, good stances, bomber gear and awesome surroundings!!

Anna_wells 29/Jul/11 Lead O/S


chris_B 28/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Fantastic day out out. First E2! Lead every pitch. First on the route, took us about 8 hours with no real dramas.

louby 28/Jul/11 2nd

First on the route, beautiful day.

Conan 17/Jul/11 AltLd

What an amazing route. Most of the pitches were 3 stars. Great protection until the traverse on pitch 11.

with Paul Farish, John Hollingworth
cat22 03/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Mike
Hidden 03/Jul/11 AltLd
Derek Ryden ?/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Climbed overnight in intermittent sunshine on our last day in Lofoten. Beautiful route. The peg on the next to last pitch was missing and the rock wet here forcing further descent and a poor belay in the gully.

with Glynne Andrew
Hidden 20/Aug/10 AltLd
Danhan 16/Aug/10 AltLd
with Nick
bridget143 11/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

P1 Mik, P2 me, P3 Toby, P4 Mik, P5 me, P6 Toby, P7 me, P8 Mik, P9 Toby, P10 me, P11 Mik, P12 Toby

with Toby Dunford, Mikkel
tobydunford 11/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with Mikkel, Bridget Hall
Andrew1 26/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with Hulda
Hidden 26/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
mattcyp88 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Not really the classic it's cracked up to be. Some good climbing though.

with Harry Martin, Thomas Van Boeckel
mattcyp88 09/Jul/10 Lead dnf

Abbed off after the weather turned. Perhaps a mistake.

with Harry Martin, Thomas Van Boeckel
Jody 08/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Pitches 2,4,6,8,9 and 11. Truly memorable.

with Erik
Erkke 08/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1,3,5,7,10,12. Two rain showers on the way, summitted in beautiful sunshine.

with Jody
Hidden ??/2010 -
Dr Caterpillar 13/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

led pitches 2,3,6,7,9,11 Awesome route, started raining on and off after pitch 8, then followed an amusing set of coincidences where I climbed dry rock while sage got wet. 12.5 hours cause we're english punters innit Went of route a bit I think on P6, went up a slabby thin crack and then straight up a steeper thin crack above which felt way too hard for 6-, probably should have been further right

John Roe 10/Aug/09 AltLd

E2 5b, led pitches 2, 4, 6, 8, 9 & 11.

with Dave Gleave
Hidden 10/Aug/09 Lead
richardlong78 30/Jul/09 AltLd

L Pitches 2 4/5 7 9 11

HIGHTOWER 30/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Certainly one of the best routes I've done. Should of carried more water!

Hidden 26/Jul/09 AltLd
Hidden 26/Jul/09 AltLd
Hidden 20/Jul/09 AltLd
centurion05 20/Jul/09 AltLd
with patch
manwithacam 13/Jul/09 AltLd

Beautiful weather, amazing climb. Pitch 7 is amazing, unfortunately I came off at the bottom of it before deciding to bridge it instead of layback. Found the climbing pretty full on on several pitches.

with Colin
chiverstom 06/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Pitches 1,3,6,8,10,12. Quality! Took 8 hours with no real issues

with Dave Turner
Hidden 26/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Daniel Armitage 26/Jun/09 AltLd
with Charlotte Armitage
dan gibson 26/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with helen gibson
tuukka 19/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Hanna
Henrik 11/Jun/09 AltLd dog

Perfect weather, day after my birthday.

with Josef
Fultonius 04/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Simply outstanding.

andyinglis 04/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Excellent route with the numerous 3 star pitches....pity about the grass gully finishing pitch!

AJ007 ?/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
eivindf ??/2009 Lead O/S
eivindf ??/2009 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2009 2nd
oor wullie 12/Jul/08 -
with Risto kalampa
Alan James - UKC and UKH 13/Jun/08 AltLd

Done in perfect conditions on Friday the 13th. The climbing is everything you would expect from this superb classic. Pitch seven is the perfect pitch of rock climbing.

TonyB 06/Jun/08 AltLd
with Simon
Hidden ?/Jun/08 AltLd
Tim W 21/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

lead pitch 2,4,5,7,9,11. 9hrs climbing

Hidden 07/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
Mattyk 07/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

Finally did it. Didn't manage to get on it when i visited in 2002, nice to see it go without any major hassle. Glad we got up early to start it 6:30 as beat the crowds and could relax on the last few pitches. topped out midday and had a dip in the lake on the way down. 1st class route!

with Ali K
yuha ?/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

Fantastic climbing, pitch after pitch. We did the direct start and finished off the last 3 pitches in a rain storm (they went clean tho). 9th pitch was my personal favorite!

with Matt
Chad123 29/Jul/07 AltLd O/S

Wow, wow and wow. Definitely a world classic. The rock quality, variety of moves, protection and views are second to none. Only last pitch is a little bold. One person will get all the hard pitches though if you are swinging leads! My favourite (tough call) was pitch 7.

with Jo
mattpw ?/Jul/07 AltLd O/S

Beautiful route, rain and wind to finish!

with Juha Kaupilla
datoon 01/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with RT
Chris Craggs ?/Aug/06 AltLd

4hrs 40mins via the Original Start. Did the Direct Start a couple of days ago for a quick look.

with Colin Binks
RAK 21/Jul/06 AltLd

Repeated twice since, with Tim R 2008 and Lauri 2011

with Lauri
cem 20/Jul/06 AltLd O/S

Fantastic route. Led all the odd numbered pitches. Done on a cold and grey (but dry) day, immediately before the long awaited good weather finally arrived just as forecast. This was deliberate as it meant we had the whole crag to ourselves and there weren't hordes of Scandinavians swarming all over us on their umpteenth ascent of the route. Have to admit that we'd never heard of it before we arrived but once there we decided it just had to be done.

NickJH ?/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
with Andy Dunhill
Hidden 09/Jun/06 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jun/06 AltLd dnf
dave o ?/Jun/06 Lead dnf

started about 8pm, then the cloud came down so abbed off after 3rd pitch....bugger

with Helena
graniterocks ?/Jun/06 AltLd
Fredrik Nyberg 05/Jul/04 AltLd O/S
with Jonas Andersson
Jonas Wiklund ?/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with Lotta Svonni
danielh ?/Jul/03 AltLd O/S

Did "Originalstarten"

TobyA 05/Aug/02 AltLd O/S

As good as it gets.

with TobyFK
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC 30/Jun/02 AltLd O/S
with Andy Hyslop
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High n6+
Mid n6+
Low n6+
High n6
Mid n6
Low n6
High n6-
Mid n6-
Low n6-
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 30
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set