Lofoten > Presten >
 
Vestpillaren*** n6

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Vestpillaren original starten >>
[First pitch of Vestpillaren, 2 kb]470m, 12 pitches. The West Pillar) The normal ascent time is 6 to 8 hours although an efficient team should manage it in less. From the parking area on Route 816, follow a small path up grassy slopes and scree for 10 minutes towards the right-hand base of Presten, and the start of a steep water-washed gully filled with grass and some loose blocks. Begin approximately 20m to the left of this, up the centre one of three shallow corners. 1) 5+, 45m. Climb up a right-slanting groove for 15m, then traverse left 10m across an easy ledge to a nice crack which leads to a small ledge with fixed belay. 2) 6-, 40m. Start up a small groove, followed by more broken ground leading to a flake/block on the left. Climb this, then make a hard move up into a thin finger-crack which leads to easier climbing up a hand-crack to a fixed belay. 3) 6, 50m. Climb straight up the narrow groove (hard but safe) by thin finger jamming and laybacking. At its top, head left up diagonal ramp which leads to a fixed belay and small stance. 4) 5-, 20m. Continue up a short wall and groove then easy slabs to a fixed belay on the right edge of Storhylla. 5) 4, 30m. Move right across the ledge, climb cracks up the right side of the huge block to a belay on top of the block. 6) 6-, 45m. Climb straight up thin cracks and neat grooves to another good ledge, then traverse 20m left across the ledge (some rope drag and loose rock) to a belay on a higher ledge to the left below a superb looking groove. 7) 6, 45m. Difficult moves lead up the shallow groove. Follow the flake above until it becomes a thin crack, then step left into a parallel crack system. Climb straight up the fine sustained crack into the big left-facing groove and take a semi-hanging belay above a bulge in the corner. 8) 5+ 40m. Continue laybacking up the groove then head right up an easier, slabby groove and belay on either of two ledges at the base of the Slanting Corner. 9) 6, 40m. The Slanting Corner. Layback and jam the right-leaning groove - sustained and awkward, especially with a sack on - to a tiny ledge. After a rest, continue up left then back right (or up the thin vertical crack on the right - harder) and belay up to the right at a block. 10) 4+, 30m. Climb up and left across ledges to a large loose flake jammed in a groove. Climb carefully up and right past the flake, then continue left up a chimney groove to reach a small belay ledge with several blocks. 11) 5, 35m. Follow the open groove up and right to its top, then move down and right for several metres, before traversing horizontally right past a fixed peg and make delicate moves around right into the grassy exit gully. 12) 3, 55m. Scramble up the grassy gully to the top. © ROCKFAX

Photo: First pitch of Vestpillaren © Richard Toon
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 80 logbooks, and on 51 wishlists.

Varied, sustained and absolutely bloody amazing!!
Stefan_Morris - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/13 with jenny

A simply brilliant route. We were 9hrs on the climb, 12hrs car to car and thought the crux was P7 and technically might just nudge 5c for a few moves, but excellent protection. Stunning situations. One of the best.
MadProfessor - AltLd - 09/Aug/13 with Mr Vaughan

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 26/Jul/13

An amazing climb, especially pitches 8 and 9. Led pitches 2, 4, 6, 8, 9, 11. A great day of climbing.
cameron_hall - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/13 with Chris Allan

By some margin the best climb i have ever done. Absolutely blown away by the quality. Led 1,3,5,7(dogged),10,12
chrisallan - AltLd dog - 19/Jul/13 with cameron_hall

Led odd-numbered pitches, so got all three n6 sections. Pitch after pitch of excellent climbing, save for the exit gully of P12!
will_benfold - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/13 with Aeron Buchanan

Incredible! Pitch after pitch of sustained, brilliant climbing. 1/4/5/8/10/12.
mes32 - AltLd - 19/Jul/13 with Chris Bull

Geordie was pysched so tried to go for it. But forecast was for rain. Climbed first 5 pitches (to the big ledge) then one more after the bolts but decided to downclimb after a cam got stuck a wasted time. Bailed and got down just before massive rain storm. Perfect anti climax to washout trip. Honestly...the route was fantastic (or the pitches I got to) but Lofoten is just too much of weather gamble. 2 weeks of rain. Dont bother.
Kemics - Lead dnf - 14/Jul/13 with Geordie

ferdia - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/13 with Rozzy

took a nice 30 ft whipper landing on John when my foot slipped mid post crux move on pitch 7
klipkabouter - AltLd O/S - Jun/13 with John Vous

Simply the best days climbing I've ever had. It took 11.5 hours overall but we were very chilled out and leisurely. Clare lead P1, me P2. Clare then fell off the 1st crux pitch on lead after claiming that her gear wasn't very good. It was fine and perfectly bomber. I strung P4 and P5 together. Clare then got the rope caught climbing P6 and I had to take coils... yay... After telling me that the belay wasn't very good I got really gripped seconding P7 and trying to get Clare's cam out. I then lead P8 awfully, feeling gripped the entire time. We had a long break before I lead the big corner to let my toes recover (knackered feet). The slanting corner was totally amazing, great climbing. The next pitch was horrible, that loose block REALLY needs trundling because otherwise it will kill someone. THe final proper traverse pitch was absolutely amazing. A totally awesome days climbing. Ace
James Oswald - AltLd O/S - Jun/13 with Clare Erskine

Coel Hellier - AltLd - 30/Jul/12 with Robert Durran

Led P2, 5, 9+12. First E2. Can't imagine a better day's climbing.
victim of mathematics - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/12 with Julie, Andy

Led pitches 1, 4, 7 & 11. Superb route, best I've ever done. The three crux pitches were brilliant and varied but all the climbing in between is also fantastic. What a great day!
climbingpixie - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/12 with Colin, Andy

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/12

Hidden - AltLd dog - 28/Jun/12

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Jun/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Jun/12

Took 9 hours. Amazing route and steady climbing the whole way. Great belays, good stances, bomber gear and awesome surroundings!!
Gibson27 - AltLd O/S - Jun/12

amazing!!
Anna_wells - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/11

Fantastic day out out. First E2! Lead every pitch. First on the route, took us about 8 hours with no real dramas.
chris_B - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/11 with Lou Atkin

First on the route, beautiful day.
louby - 2nd - 28/Jul/11 with Chris Burn

What an amazing route. Most of the pitches were 3 stars. Great protection until the traverse on pitch 11.
Conan - AltLd - 17/Jul/11 with Paul Farish, John Hollingworth

cat22 - 2nd O/S - 03/Jul/11 with Mike

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Jul/11

Climbed overnight in intermittent sunshine on our last day in Lofoten. Beautiful route. The peg on the next to last pitch was missing and the rock wet here forcing further descent and a poor belay in the gully.
Derek Ryden - AltLd O/S - Jun/11 with Glynne Andrew

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Aug/10

Danhan - AltLd - 16/Aug/10 with Nick

P1 Mik, P2 me, P3 Toby, P4 Mik, P5 me, P6 Toby, P7 me, P8 Mik, P9 Toby, P10 me, P11 Mik, P12 Toby
bridget143 - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/10 with Toby Dunford, Mikkel

tobydunford - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/10 with Mikkel, Bridget Hall

Andrew1 - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/10 with Hulda

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/10

Not really the classic it's cracked up to be. Some good climbing though.
mattcyp88 - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/10 with Harry Martin, Thomas Van Boeckel

Abbed off after the weather turned. Perhaps a mistake.
mattcyp88 - Lead dnf - 09/Jul/10 with Harry Martin, Thomas Van Boeckel

Pitches 2,4,6,8,9 and 11. Truly memorable.
Jody - AltLd O/S - 08/Jul/10 with Erik

Led pitches 1,3,5,7,10,12. Two rain showers on the way, summitted in beautiful sunshine.
Erkke - AltLd O/S - 08/Jul/10 with Jody

Hidden - 2010

led pitches 2,3,6,7,9,11 Awesome route, started raining on and off after pitch 8, then followed an amusing set of coincidences where I climbed dry rock while sage got wet. 12.5 hours cause we're english punters innit Went of route a bit I think on P6, went up a slabby thin crack and then straight up a steeper thin crack above which felt way too hard for 6-, probably should have been further right
Dr Caterpillar - AltLd O/S - 13/Aug/09 with Alan Sage

E2 5b, led pitches 2, 4, 6, 8, 9 & 11.
John Roe - AltLd - 10/Aug/09 with Dave Gleave

L Pitches 2 4/5 7 9 11
richardlong78 - AltLd - 30/Jul/09 with Mark Freestone

Certainly one of the best routes I've done. Should of carried more water!
HIGHTOWER - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/09 with Richie Long

Excellent route, well protected, never too serious. Led pitches 1,3,5,7,9 and 11. Found pitch 3 the hardest but very well protected. We did it in 5 and a half hours, no issues just great climbing in great weather conditions.
brockers - AltLd - 26/Jul/09 with Maggie Bass

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Jul/09

Beautiful weather, amazing climb. Pitch 7 is amazing, unfortunately I came off at the bottom of it before deciding to bridge it instead of layback. Found the climbing pretty full on on several pitches.
manwithacam - AltLd - 13/Jul/09 with Colin

Pitches 1,3,6,8,10,12. Quality! Took 8 hours with no real issues
chiverstom - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/09 with Dave Turner

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/09

Daniel Armitage - AltLd - 26/Jun/09 with Charlotte Armitage

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/09 with helen gibson

tuukka - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/09 with Hanna

Perfect weather, day after my birthday.
Henrik - AltLd dog - 11/Jun/09 with Josef

Simply outstanding.
Fultonius - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/09 with Andy Inglis

Excellent route with the numerous 3 star pitches....pity about the grass gully finishing pitch!
andyinglis - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/09 with Ally Fulton

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/09

eivindf - Lead O/S - 2009

eivindf - Lead O/S - 2009

Tarquin - 2nd - 2009

oor wullie - 12/Jul/08 with Risto kalampa

Done in perfect conditions on Friday the 13th. The climbing is everything you would expect from this superb classic. Pitch seven is the perfect pitch of rock climbing.
Alan James - UKC and UKH - AltLd - 13/Jun/08 with Mark Glaister

TonyB - AltLd - 06/Jun/08 with Simon

lead pitch 2,4,5,7,9,11. 9hrs climbing
Tim W - AltLd O/S - 21/Aug/07 with Jamie Moss

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/07

Finally did it. Didn't manage to get on it when i visited in 2002, nice to see it go without any major hassle. Glad we got up early to start it 6:30 as beat the crowds and could relax on the last few pitches. topped out midday and had a dip in the lake on the way down. 1st class route!
Mattyk - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/07 with Ali K

Fantastic climbing, pitch after pitch. We did the direct start and finished off the last 3 pitches in a rain storm (they went clean tho). 9th pitch was my personal favorite!
yuha - AltLd O/S - Aug/07 with Matt

Wow, wow and wow. Definitely a world classic. The rock quality, variety of moves, protection and views are second to none. Only last pitch is a little bold. One person will get all the hard pitches though if you are swinging leads! My favourite (tough call) was pitch 7.
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 29/Jul/07 with Jo

Beautiful route, rain and wind to finish!
mattpw - AltLd O/S - Jul/07 with Juha Kaupilla

datoon - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/06 with RT

4hrs 40mins via the Original Start. Did the Direct Start a couple of days ago for a quick look.
Chris Craggs - AltLd - Aug/06 with Colin Binks

Repeated twice since, with Tim R 2008 and Lauri 2011
RAK - AltLd - 21/Jul/06 with Lauri

Fantastic route. Led all the odd numbered pitches. Done on a cold and grey (but dry) day, immediately before the long awaited good weather finally arrived just as forecast. This was deliberate as it meant we had the whole crag to ourselves and there weren't hordes of Scandinavians swarming all over us on their umpteenth ascent of the route. Have to admit that we'd never heard of it before we arrived but once there we decided it just had to be done.
cem - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/06 with Graham Dolman

NickJH - AltLd O/S - Jul/06 with Andy Dunhill

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Jun/06

Hidden - AltLd dnf - Jun/06

started about 8pm, then the cloud came down so abbed off after 3rd pitch....bugger
dave o - Lead dnf - Jun/06 with Helena

graniterocks - AltLd - Jun/06

Fredrik Nyberg - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/04 with Jonas Andersson

Jonas Wiklund - Lead O/S - Jul/03 with Lotta Svonni

Did "Originalstarten"
danielh - AltLd O/S - Jul/03

As good as it gets.
TobyA - AltLd O/S - 05/Aug/02 with TobyFK

Jonathan Lagoe - UKC - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/02 with Andy Hyslop

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Voting
Total votes cast 42
hard n6+0 of 15
n6+0 of 15
easy n6+0 of 15
hard n60 of 15
n612 of 15
easy n63 of 15
hard n6-0 of 15
n6-0 of 15
easy n6-0 of 15
3 Stars26 of 27
2 Stars0 of 27
1 Star1 of 27
0 Stars0 of 27
Bag of .....0 of 27
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Style of ascent

Lead12 of 80 (15.0%)
Followed3 of 80 (3.8%)
Alt Leads63 of 80 (78.8%)
Unknown2 of 80 (2.5%)

'Climbed'25 of 80 (31.2%)
clean O/S47 of 80 (58.8%)
clean rpt1 of 80 (1.2%)
dogged3 of 80 (3.8%)
dnf4 of 80 (5.0%)