North Gully II
[Spaniards on Ben Nevis, 3 kb]4 pitches. A great wee climb, left of No.4 Gully. The first pitch is the crux, a narrow gully of about 30m, usually ice near the top and quite steep for a grade II. The rest of the route opens out into a broad fan. There are two options from here, the left is graded III and the right still at around I/II. This is an open slope/fan and could well be prone to avalanche. Finishes just to the left and above No. 4 Gully. Great route and never seen anyone here, good place for quietness!
Mcdonald & Turnbull 24/Mar/1934

Ticklists: Ben Nevis Gully Climbs.

Photo: Spaniards on Ben Nevis © JimF
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This climb is in 165 logbooks, and on 14 wishlists.

Hidden - Solo - 10/Mar/15

plain kitten - 2015

Lovely route with the left hand variation at the end (III) which Tom led. Ice was well developed but the rocks were very verglassed which made finding rock gear very difficult. Belays just about appeared where you needed them.
Ragingpossum - AltLd O/S - 28/Dec/14 with Tom Eldridge

ErikAndersen - Solo O/S - Mar/14

Hidden - Solo - 05/Mar/13

Jerry67 - 21/Feb/13

Gman - Solo - 21/Feb/13 with Jeremy Hart

Nice ice at the top of the narrow gully.
James_L88 - Solo O/S - 20/Jan/13

dav_713 - Solo - 12/Jan/13

via LH finish. first pitch had a c.2m bare section so a couple of mixed moves required
morsy - AltLd - 10/Jan/13 with gerhard mors

morsg - AltLd - 10/Jan/13 with Stephan Mors

Hidden - 2013

Darrell Read - AltLd - 29/Dec/12 with Oliver Mentz

Ice pitch was brilliant.
bms - Solo - 18/Dec/12

luckyjim - AltLd - 12/Dec/12 with Evelina

freyja - 12/Dec/12

HIGHTOWER - 2nd - 19/Mar/12 with Tom Hansford, Luke Watts

pete.hutchings - AltLd - 14/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead - 13/Mar/12

Good mixed moves on first pitch.
Ken Applegate - Lead - 13/Mar/12 with Rusty

Soggy, muggy. Not really winter.
NeilGriffiths - Solo - 10/Mar/12 with Adrian Pedley

williamsd79 - AltLd - 07/Mar/12

Sam Warby - AltLd O/S - 07/Mar/12

Ken Applegate - AltLd - 06/Mar/12 with Mark, Ian

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Mar/12

Headed up iceflow on right as gully didn't have a lot of snow or ice. First real ice route, lovely climbing.
thomb - AltLd - 01/Mar/12

Hidden - AltLd - 29/Feb/12

sacdenouilles - AltLd - 29/Feb/12 with A Redvers

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Feb/12

kj001 - 2nd - 28/Feb/12 with Phil Dowthwaite

nickcj - Lead - 25/Feb/12

planetmarshall - 2nd - 17/Feb/12 with Simon Elstow

jasoncash - AltLd O/S - 14/Feb/12 with Andy Cash

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Feb/12

texuspete - Solo O/S - 13/Feb/12 with Mark Bishop, Ben Robotham

Pete23 - Lead - 12/Feb/12 with Gary McCaulay

Gary Macaulay - 2nd - 12/Feb/12 with Peter Berwick

Amazing weather, end of a week of high pressure; cold, clear blue sky, light wind. Conditions good on the route. Plenty of ice to the right of the main gully on pitch 2. Turned cornice on the right up an easy ramp.
Si Carter - Lead O/S - 03/Feb/12 with Colin Tiley

Jones_88 - Solo - 01/Feb/12

joscott - 2nd - Feb/12 with Mathias Basedow

Robin Brooke - 2nd - Feb/12 with ed chard

Enjoyable little climb. The steep icy start was great fun and in excellent condition. Snow slope was sustained steepening névé up to the cornice, which was impassable at the centre but easily climbable after traversing right.
Doogleman - Solo O/S - 16/Jan/12

dave1066 - 2nd dnf - 12/Jan/12 with Zoe Dean

Blurgy319 - Solo - Jan/12

Steve Wakeford - Solo - 2012

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Apr/11

Richard lead up through the left hand finish (III).
J Brown - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/11 with RK

Nice route. Ice was sounding a bit hollow on the first pitch, but overall, the route is in reasonable condition. Working day.
Ken Applegate - Solo - 03/Apr/11

keith hal - AltLd O/S - 03/Apr/11 with Peter Berwick

Wesley Orvis - Lead - 01/Apr/11

Pete23 - AltLd - Apr/11 with Keith Haldane

The ice pitch was steeper than your average II. Closer to III but then the rest o fthe route was pretty straight forward. Deceptively long way up to that cornice though.
gilbert - 2nd O/S - 29/Mar/11 with John Naylor

Climbing as two pairs, Dave and John, me and Ian
theycallmefrodo - 2nd O/S - 27/Mar/11 with Ian Richardson, John Kirkman, David Tait

Left-hand variation at III, very nice.
isi_o - AltLd - 06/Mar/11 with Graham Stuchbury

Lead P1 &3, 1st pitch steep for II but good ice. Finished up left hand variation at top (About III)
Stuzz - AltLd O/S - 06/Mar/11 with Isi

nickcj - Lead - 06/Mar/11

just nipped back up here for a wee giggle, nice ice:)
Timo Austino - Solo - 05/Mar/11 with Nats

steepish start.took left hand finish(III)-firmer and in shade!hard ice in left cnr before
tomshanti - Solo O/S - 05/Mar/11

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Feb/11

paulh.0776 - 2nd - 02/Feb/11 with Andy Ravenhill,

Led 1st and 3rd pitches. Did LH variation at III. Quality!
Mr Fuller - AltLd O/S - 29/Jan/11 with Dan

mikemartin - Solo - 28/Jan/11

Hidden - Solo - 27/Jan/11

np134 - Solo O/S - 27/Jan/11 with A. Singleton, N. Howett

Hidden - 26/Jan/11

Pat-H - Lead rpt - 26/Jan/11 with don, andy

Brilliant Neve, Possibly took the left fork but only grade II in those conditions.
Ewan Russell - Solo O/S - 22/Jan/11 with Matt_L_Robinson

Third time on this excellent grade 2. Led first pitch, steep water ice for the grade. Bucket steps, bomber neve and a nice narrow exit after that
abbeywall - AltLd - 02/Jan/11 with ged, K

ged3000 - 2nd - 02/Jan/11

Mr. K - Solo O/S - 01/Jan/11

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Tenko - 2011

Pitched the first as had hoped it was 'the gift', soloed the rest. Bit stiffer than it could have been due to thin conditions, cold enough though.
mikehenesy - Solo - 16/Dec/10 with Dave Tait, Percy

gripped01 - AltLd - 16/Dec/10 with Mike Henesy, Dave Tait

The wee ice step was thin, tricky and no gear unless you are a giant and can lassoo the spike! Nice wee line though, very quiet part of the mountain.
iceicebaby - 12/Dec/10 with Sam Wood

Fun solo. A nice pitch of steep ice about 1/3 of the way up.
JamesRoddie - Solo O/S - 30/Nov/10

marie_p - 2nd - Nov/10 with John

looked at the alternative finish but it wasn't in.
Piers Harley - Solo - 23/Feb/10

rob k - Solo O/S - 23/Feb/10 with P Harley

Pat-H - 2nd - Feb/10

kenneM - AltLd - 02/Jan/10 with Steve Marner

colinthrelfall - 2010

A good short route. Ice pitch starting to bank out.
Only a hill - Solo O/S - 18/Dec/09 with CurlyStevo

Protheroe - Lead O/S - 13/Dec/09 with Clay and Rob

Clay C - 2nd O/S - 13/Dec/09 with Rob, Gareth

R_W_M - 2nd - 13/Dec/09 with Clay, Gareth

nice conditions!
CurlyStevo - Solo - Dec/09 with Alex

Hidden - Lead - 13/Apr/09

Dirk Wallis - Solo - 21/Mar/09 with Gwilym

kingjam - 2nd - Mar/09 with Guide

Simonfarfaraway - AltLd - 28/Feb/09 with Huw

IanMcC - AltLd - Feb/09 with ade

Hidden - Solo - 02/Jan/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Jan/09

Lead 1st ice pitch. First proper winter lead
Glyn - AltLd O/S - 02/Jan/09 with David Fountain

nice first pitch, led by Glyn, rest of the route a disapointment, wish I had had a look at the direct finish.
davefount - AltLd O/S - 02/Jan/09 with Glyn

Hidden - Solo - Jan/09

Hidden - AltLd - 31/Dec/08

Good little ice pitch at first, then bomber neve all the way
KeithW - Solo O/S - 31/Dec/08

Hidden - AltLd - 30/Dec/08

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Dec/08

George Ormerod - AltLd O/S - 20/Apr/08 with Roger

steven - 09/Apr/08 with Matt Rushton

my first winter climb!....sooo fantastic...and what a perfect sunny day to do it :-)
lancashirelass - AltLd - 02/Apr/08 with kjbix

Think this might have been better in leaner conditions - couldn't find the ice pitch.
beckycoles - AltLd O/S - 17/Mar/08

thomasaneurinsmith - AltLd O/S - 08/Mar/08 with Carol Goodall

industrialiceman - 24/Feb/08

The ice was pretty thin at the start so it felt more like a III.
My Gravity - 2nd O/S - 18/Feb/08 with Laurence

ruggystunts - Solo - 18/Feb/08

First pitch very bare, thin seam of water ice in the gully, some interesting moves! well above grade 2.
Jimmy O - AltLd O/S - 17/Feb/08 with Andy Blackett and Jonny Taylor

James led the crux pitch which was on alarmingly sparse and disintegrating ice
jonny taylor - AltLd O/S - 17/Feb/08 with James, Andy B

Hidden - Lead - 16/Feb/08

Cold and cloudy, ice pitch falling down!
mikehenesy - AltLd O/S - Feb/08 with Chris Lodge

HamishD - Solo O/S - 03/Jan/08 with chris burn

kjbix - Lead - 2008 with Selma Williams

stuaart - 2nd O/S - 2008 with Neil Redgrave

Phill_ Thompson - AltLd - 2008 with skarabrae, Helen Whiteman, Ian Gardiner, Lucy Prins

Easy route,little ice pitch.
Billy Walker - Bad Seller - Lead O/S - 30/Dec/07 with Martian

Hidden - Solo - 25/Mar/07

andrewbooth1000 - AltLd O/S - 03/Mar/07 with Pete Baillie

joe king - Lead - Mar/07 with John Hodgson

Piers Harley - AltLd β - 08/Feb/07 with Simon Clark

dan cowley - Lead O/S - 08/Feb/07 with Natalie

Jim Haydock - Solo - 08/Feb/07 with alone

Zoomer - 2nd - 06/Feb/07 with Pat Tate

Hidden - Lead - 06/Feb/07

Piers Harley - AltLd - Feb/07 with Simon Clark

excellent climb good conditions lovely views. descended number 4.
andy hunter - AltLd - Feb/07 with Andy W

alan wilson - 2007

alan wilson - 2007

Stuart Macfarlane - AltLd - 18/Mar/06 with Phil

reg_measures - Solo O/S - Mar/06

gripped01 - Lead O/S - Mar/06 with Si Moore

Captain Solo - Solo - 25/Feb/06

abbeywall - AltLd - 04/Feb/06 with K

Also with Rachel James. A nice ice pitch at Grade II, then snow to the top. Fantastic sunset and a moonlit brocken spectre on the way down
Howard J - AltLd O/S - 03/Feb/06 with Steve Birchall

Hidden - Lead - 03/Feb/06

Hidden - Lead - Feb/06

Jennyvs - Solo - Feb/06 with Emily Venables

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Jan/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jan/06

Hidden - 2006

Chris L Hill - AltLd O/S - 2006 with Stuart Shaw

icescrew - AltLd - Mar/05 with The Fox

Hidden - Lead - Feb/05

Hidden - Solo - Feb/05

niall_mac - AltLd - Feb/04 with Mark R

Hannah V - 2nd - 17/Mar/03

Hidden - AltLd - Feb/03

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Feb/02

Moved together.
Andy Clarke - Lead - 26/Jan/02 with ChrisB

luckyjim - Solo - Dec/00

abbeywall - AltLd - Mar/00 with K

Andy Say - Solo - 14/Apr/98

Paul died 2 weeks later. so sad.
jlury - Solo - Mar/96 with Paul Bale

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jan/95

auld al - AltLd O/S - 1991

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Mar/86

johnkeith - 1985

John Marsland - Lead dnf - Dec/81 with P Upsom

Mark Kemball - Solo - 23/Feb/81 with Mark Boon

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Feb/80

Hidden - AltLd - Mar/77

Sean Kelly - Feb/77 with Tony Caldwell

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Stuart Hurworth, Dustin, skirton, Sally Hudson, Stiffinger, Doogleman, simonjkinsella, Al Kells, andens2

Total votes cast 51
hard II/III0 of 28
II/III0 of 28
easy II/III9 of 28
hard II7 of 28
II12 of 28
easy II0 of 28
hard I/II0 of 28
I/II0 of 28
easy I/II0 of 28
3 Stars0 of 23
2 Stars20 of 23
1 Star3 of 23
0 Stars0 of 23
Bag of .....0 of 23
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Clean β
Clean repeat