4 pitches. A great wee climb, left of No.4 Gully. The first pitch is the crux, a narrow gully of about 30m, usually ice near the top and quite steep for a grade II. The rest of the route opens out into a broad fan. There are two options from here, the left is graded III and the right still at around I/II. This is an open slope/fan and could well be prone to avalanche. Finishes just to the left and above No. 4 Gully. Great route and never seen anyone here, good place for quietness!

Mcdonald & Turnbull 24/Mar/1934

Ticklists: Ben Nevis Gully Climbs.

ClimberDateStyleNotes & Partners
Hidden 10/Mar Solo
plain kitten ??/2015 -
Ragingpossum 28/Dec/14 AltLd O/S

Lovely route with the left hand variation at the end (III) which Tom led. Ice was well developed but the rocks were very verglassed which made finding rock gear very difficult. Belays just about appeared where you needed them.

Tom Eldridge
ErikAndersen ?/Mar/14 Solo O/S
Hidden 05/Mar/13 Solo
Jerry67 21/Feb/13 -
Gman 21/Feb/13 Solo
Jeremy Hart
James_L88 20/Jan/13 Solo O/S

Nice ice at the top of the narrow gully.

dav_713 12/Jan/13 Solo
morsy 10/Jan/13 AltLd

via LH finish. first pitch had a c.2m bare section so a couple of mixed moves required

gerhard mors
morsg 10/Jan/13 AltLd
Hidden ??/2013 -
Darrell Read 29/Dec/12 AltLd
bms 18/Dec/12 Solo

Ice pitch was brilliant.

luckyjim 12/Dec/12 AltLd
freyja 12/Dec/12 -
HIGHTOWER 19/Mar/12 2nd
Tom Hansford, Luke Watts
pete.hutchings 14/Mar/12 AltLd
Hidden 13/Mar/12 Lead
Ken Applegate 13/Mar/12 Lead

Good mixed moves on first pitch.

NeilGriffiths 10/Mar/12 Solo

Soggy, muggy. Not really winter.

Adrian Pedley
williamsd79 07/Mar/12 AltLd
Sam Warby 07/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
Ken Applegate 06/Mar/12 AltLd
Mark, Ian
Hidden 06/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
thomb 01/Mar/12 AltLd

Headed up iceflow on right as gully didn't have a lot of snow or ice. First real ice route, lovely climbing.

Hidden 29/Feb/12 AltLd
sacdenouilles 29/Feb/12 AltLd
Hidden 28/Feb/12 AltLd
kj001 28/Feb/12 2nd
nickcj 25/Feb/12 Lead
planetmarshall 17/Feb/12 2nd
Simon Elstow
jasoncash 14/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
texuspete 13/Feb/12 Solo O/S
Mark Bishop, Ben Robotham
Pete23 12/Feb/12 Lead
Gary McCaulay
Gary Macaulay 12/Feb/12 2nd
Peter Berwick
Si Carter 03/Feb/12 Lead O/S

Amazing weather, end of a week of high pressure; cold, clear blue sky, light wind. Conditions good on the route. Plenty of ice to the right of the main gully on pitch 2. Turned cornice on the right up an easy ramp.

Colin Tiley
Jones_88 01/Feb/12 Solo
joscott ?/Feb/12 2nd
Mathias Basedow
Robin Brooke ?/Feb/12 2nd
ed chard
Doogleman 16/Jan/12 Solo O/S

Enjoyable little climb. The steep icy start was great fun and in excellent condition. Snow slope was sustained steepening névé up to the cornice, which was impassable at the centre but easily climbable after traversing right.

dave1066 12/Jan/12 2nd dnf
Zoe Dean
Blurgy319 ?/Jan/12 Solo
Steve Wakeford ??/2012 Solo
Hidden 09/Apr/11 AltLd
J Brown 09/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Richard lead up through the left hand finish (III).

Ken Applegate 03/Apr/11 Solo

Nice route. Ice was sounding a bit hollow on the first pitch, but overall, the route is in reasonable condition. Working day.

keith hal 03/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Peter Berwick
Wesley Orvis 01/Apr/11 Lead
Pete23 ?/Apr/11 AltLd
Keith Haldane
gilbert 29/Mar/11 2nd O/S

The ice pitch was steeper than your average II. Closer to III but then the rest o fthe route was pretty straight forward. Deceptively long way up to that cornice though.

John Naylor
theycallmefrodo 27/Mar/11 2nd O/S

Climbing as two pairs, Dave and John, me and Ian

Ian Richardson, John Kirkman, David Tait
isi_o 06/Mar/11 AltLd

Left-hand variation at III, very nice.

Graham Stuchbury
Stuzz 06/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Lead P1 &3, 1st pitch steep for II but good ice. Finished up left hand variation at top (About III)

nickcj 06/Mar/11 Lead
Timo Austino 05/Mar/11 Solo

just nipped back up here for a wee giggle, nice ice:)

tomshanti 05/Mar/11 Solo O/S

steepish start.took left hand finish(III)-firmer and in shade!hard ice in left cnr before cornice.fun

Hidden 28/Feb/11 2nd
paulh.0776 02/Feb/11 2nd
Andy Ravenhill,
Mr Fuller 29/Jan/11 AltLd O/S

Led 1st and 3rd pitches. Did LH variation at III. Quality!

mikemartin 28/Jan/11 Solo
Hidden 27/Jan/11 Solo
np134 27/Jan/11 Solo O/S
A. Singleton, N. Howett
Hidden 26/Jan/11 -
Pat-H 26/Jan/11 Lead rpt
don, andy
Ewan Russell 22/Jan/11 Solo O/S

Brilliant Neve, Possibly took the left fork but only grade II in those conditions.

abbeywall 02/Jan/11 AltLd

Third time on this excellent grade 2. Led first pitch, steep water ice for the grade. Bucket steps, bomber neve and a nice narrow exit after that

ged, K
ged3000 02/Jan/11 2nd
Mr. K 01/Jan/11 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Tenko ??/2011 -
mikehenesy 16/Dec/10 Solo

Pitched the first as had hoped it was 'the gift', soloed the rest. Bit stiffer than it could have been due to thin conditions, cold enough though.

Dave Tait, Percy
gripped01 16/Dec/10 AltLd
Mike Henesy, Dave Tait
iceicebaby 12/Dec/10 -

The wee ice step was thin, tricky and no gear unless you are a giant and can lassoo the spike! Nice wee line though, very quiet part of the mountain.

JamesRoddie 30/Nov/10 Solo O/S

Fun solo. A nice pitch of steep ice about 1/3 of the way up.

marie_p ?/Nov/10 2nd
Piers Harley 23/Feb/10 Solo

looked at the alternative finish but it wasn't in.

rob k 23/Feb/10 Solo O/S
P Harley
Pat-H ?/Feb/10 2nd
kenneM 02/Jan/10 AltLd
Steve Marner
colinthrelfall ??/2010 -
Only a hill 18/Dec/09 Solo O/S

A good short route. Ice pitch starting to bank out.

Protheroe 13/Dec/09 Lead O/S
Clay and Rob
Clay C 13/Dec/09 2nd O/S
R_W_M 13/Dec/09 2nd
CurlyStevo ?/Dec/09 Solo

nice conditions!

Hidden 13/Apr/09 Lead
Dirk Wallis 21/Mar/09 Solo
kingjam ?/Mar/09 2nd
Simonfarfaraway 28/Feb/09 AltLd
IanMcC ?/Feb/09 AltLd
Hidden 02/Jan/09 Solo
Hidden 02/Jan/09 AltLd O/S
Glyn 02/Jan/09 AltLd O/S

Lead 1st ice pitch. First proper winter lead

davefount 02/Jan/09 AltLd O/S

nice first pitch, led by Glyn, rest of the route a disapointment, wish I had had a look at the direct finish.

Hidden ?/Jan/09 Solo
Hidden 31/Dec/08 AltLd
KeithW 31/Dec/08 Solo O/S

Good little ice pitch at first, then bomber neve all the way

Hidden 30/Dec/08 AltLd
Hidden 29/Dec/08 2nd O/S
George Ormerod 20/Apr/08 AltLd O/S
steven 09/Apr/08 -
Matt Rushton
lancashirelass 02/Apr/08 AltLd

my first winter climb!....sooo fantastic...and what a perfect sunny day to do it :-)

beckycoles 17/Mar/08 AltLd O/S

Think this might have been better in leaner conditions - couldn't find the ice pitch.

thomasaneurinsmith 08/Mar/08 AltLd O/S
Carol Goodall
industrialiceman 24/Feb/08 -
My Gravity 18/Feb/08 2nd O/S

The ice was pretty thin at the start so it felt more like a III.

ruggystunts 18/Feb/08 Solo
Jimmy O 17/Feb/08 AltLd O/S

First pitch very bare, thin seam of water ice in the gully, some interesting moves! well above grade 2.

Andy Blackett and Jonny Taylor
jonny taylor 17/Feb/08 AltLd O/S

James led the crux pitch which was on alarmingly sparse and disintegrating ice

Hidden 16/Feb/08 Lead
mikehenesy ?/Feb/08 AltLd O/S

Cold and cloudy, ice pitch falling down!

Chris Lodge
HamishD 03/Jan/08 Solo O/S
chris burn
kjbix ??/2008 Lead
stuaart ??/2008 2nd O/S
Neil Redgrave
Phill_ Thompson ??/2008 AltLd
skarabrae, Helen Whiteman, Ian Gardiner, Lucy Prins
Billy Walker - Bad Seller 30/Dec/07 Lead O/S

Easy route,little ice pitch.

Hidden 25/Mar/07 Solo
andrewbooth1000 03/Mar/07 AltLd O/S
Pete Baillie
joe king ?/Mar/07 Lead
John Hodgson
Piers Harley 08/Feb/07 AltLd β
Simon Clark
dan cowley 08/Feb/07 Lead O/S
Jim Haydock 08/Feb/07 Solo
Zoomer 06/Feb/07 2nd
Pat Tate
Hidden 06/Feb/07 Lead
Piers Harley ?/Feb/07 AltLd
Simon Clark
andy hunter ?/Feb/07 AltLd

excellent climb good conditions lovely views. descended number 4.

Andy W
alan wilson ??/2007 -
alan wilson ??/2007 -
Stuart Macfarlane 18/Mar/06 AltLd
reg_measures ?/Mar/06 Solo O/S
gripped01 ?/Mar/06 Lead O/S
Si Moore
Captain Solo 25/Feb/06 Solo
abbeywall 04/Feb/06 AltLd
Howard J 03/Feb/06 AltLd O/S

Also with Rachel James. A nice ice pitch at Grade II, then snow to the top. Fantastic sunset and a moonlit brocken spectre on the way down

Steve Birchall
Hidden 03/Feb/06 Lead
Hidden ?/Feb/06 Lead
Jennyvs ?/Feb/06 Solo
Emily Venables
Hidden 28/Jan/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jan/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2006 -
Chris L Hill ??/2006 AltLd O/S
Stuart Shaw
icescrew ?/Mar/05 AltLd
The Fox
Hidden ?/Feb/05 Lead
Hidden ?/Feb/05 Solo
niall_mac ?/Feb/04 AltLd
Mark R
Hannah V 17/Mar/03 2nd
Hidden ?/Feb/03 AltLd
Hidden 20/Feb/02 AltLd
Andy Clarke 26/Jan/02 Lead

Moved together.

luckyjim ?/Dec/00 Solo
abbeywall ?/Mar/00 AltLd
Andy Say 14/Apr/98 Solo
jlury ?/Mar/96 Solo

Paul died 2 weeks later. so sad.

Paul Bale
Hidden ?/Jan/95 Lead O/S
auld al ??/1991 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/Mar/86 AltLd
johnkeith ??/1985 -
John Marsland ?/Dec/81 Lead dnf
P Upsom
Mark Kemball 23/Feb/81 Solo
Mark Boon
Hidden 17/Feb/80 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/77 AltLd
Sean Kelly ?/Feb/77 -
Tony Caldwell
High II
Mid II
Low II
High I/II
Mid I/II
Low I/II
Votes cast 28
Votes cast 23
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set