|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
Nice solo, even if it felt like there was a jet engine aimed at me the entire way. Good conditions, but fairly lean. Grade III.
|Ben Prestwich||15/Mar||AltLd O/S|
Blue skies, wind scoured snow, felt quite tricky in thin conditions.
First winter lead. Long run-outs, bomber gear and great fun.
|Col Kingshott||04/Mar||Lead O/S|
In good condition and a good climb for the grade. SAIS: http://ncairngormsblog.sais.gov.uk/2015/03/respite/
Great route, did a slightly more direct start out of Jacobs Ladder to add a little more climbing. http://mp-m.uk/UHh5G
Bernie Lozowski, Dave Robinette
I led the first pitch along the Slant to the foot of Hidden Chimney then Robby led the next two pitches to the top.
Enjoyable climb, good length for the grim weather.
Top pitch after coming in from the Haston Line, first proper winter lead.
Jem, Matt G
Coming from Yukon Jack. Pretty nice climbing, so much in-situ gear.
Lead 3 and 4
Sarah Bufkin, Niall Browne
A snowy ramp for P1; the chimney was well rimed but actually quite lean for ice, requiring me to remember my limited mixed tooling techniques.
|chris smith||29/Jan||AltLd O/S|
|Matthew Dieumegard-Thornton||23/Jan||Lead dnf||
Sooo much powder!
First winter climb
I led first and third pitches, Jacob lead second pitch
|Jacob Forshaw||29/Dec/14||AltLd O/S|
Soloed the first pitch and lead the chimney pitch again
With the direct start.
Rob Reglinski, Andy Harrison
First winter climb! Good day out in bad weather
|Sam Simpson||05/Dec/14||AltLd O/S|
good hooks the whole way, fun pitch of climbing after the direct start!
First winter lead
|Stuart Hurworth||18/Jan/14||AltLd O/S||
Led 2nd pitch up to base of wide chimney on the slant. Lots of soft snow, some neve in places. The Hidden Chimney itself provides excellent bridging with mostly good axe placements until near the top when it became an exhausting struggle on powder. 1st pitched lead in winter!
Manchester Climbing Club
Great route - shame the chimney is so short.
After first pitch avalanche somewhere near the top of The Slant!! Pushed on as getting dark-Chimney in poor condition, no gear as snow and iced over rock, very vertical and soft snow around chockstones. Managed crux's with one runner at botttom, 3 foot from the top part of cornice gave way and took me with it!! fell 50 metres down the chimney, gear popped out, fell past the belay. Managed to get up and the 3 of us abseiled the 2 pitches down to escape. At bottom gusting 70-80mph knocking us off our feet while walking out in the dark. 11 hours on the mountain. 2 swollen ankles a bashed elbow and slightly sore knee. But ok. Glad to make it out alive. should have turned round much earlier!!!
Ana Piris, Teresa Torrents
Lead all except part of the slant in 4 short pitches. Good ice in the chimney except for the very top which needed a technical bridging move with poor, powdery placements.
Very fat conditions. Mix of good neve and crud, chockstone nearly buried.
|Paul Collins||08/Jan/14||AltLd rpt|
Grade II conditions.
|David Staples||03/Jan/14||2nd O/S||
Banked out with snow. But great first winter route! f-ing chuffed!
|Murilo Lessa||02/Jan/14||AltLd O/S||
Lead first pitch. The chimney is nice but quite an easy route…
haston line/hidden chimney in 2 pitches
Lead all pitches
Started along the Slant and then picked up Hidden Chimney. Choke stone was tricky. Really windy. -3 at the top.
Up after direct start.
|waiting for snow||18/Dec/13||AltLd O/S||
Forked left higher up to go over the chock stone.
|Martin McKenna - UKC||17/Dec/13||AltLd O/S||
Went to do Honeypot but was out of nick. Direct start was also mobbed.
|Little AndyH||07/Dec/13||Lead O/S|
great conditions, great lead from chadders with gambolio cleaning up behind.
4 pitches: approach to the slant - pitched the gully as water running under the ice+snow=very unstable ground. 2 - the Slant traverse. 3 & 4 - split the chimney. Led 1 and 3. Class climb. Made more difficult, I would think, by the lack of solid ice.
|David Barratt||30/Nov/13||AltLd O/S||
Great climb, spoilt for choice with gear placements.
Awesome climb, getting into condition. Well frozen, not a lot of ice though. The last pitch is really good fun.
An excellent lead by Debs in very lean and powdery conditions, superb climbing
solo pitches 1 and 2, lead chimney. grade III today and brilliant
as too crowded on Direct went for this one.we soloed the Slant (other teem went our steps). Kretek climbed with walking axes:D nice climb for season start:)
|Fiona Reid||09/Nov/13||AltLd O/S||
Definitely good value in today's conditions. Lots of powder. Soloed to top of direct start. Split into 3 pitches, Mike led traverse, I led chimney to above chockstone, Mike led from there to top.
An enjoyable if shortlived introduction to Cairngorms mixed.
Jim lead the first pitch to the chimney & I climbed the chimney to the last 15/20m where Jim topped out.
Second time doing this route and felt significantly less secure than the first as fairly powdery today. All lead by Andrew.
Tom Shaw, Andrew Appleby
Climbed after the Direct Start. I lead the main bit (55 metres) and Led, rest (10m) to top out, welcome by gale wind and blizzard. After my lead, where I had to excavate powder snow a lot, by the time Lee seconded all the clean-up was undone due to snowfall, so Lee had to start from scratch! We found there were several hard moves, up to solid tech 4 - in today's conditions it was either top-end III or soft IV and nowhere close to II.
|whispering nic||03/Mar/13||Lead rpt||
direct start also. great condition today
ross nicol esq
Did first couple of pitches of Haston Line then finished up Hidden Chimney. A good combination. Richard led main pitch as I'd done it 2 weeks previous.
|Curly Rich||17/Feb/13||AltLd O/S||
queued for ages second pitch was great.
last pitch of the day, topped out at dusk. bum slide down approach slabs in the dark.
wet and melting
|sarah hawker||09/Feb/13||2nd O/S||
Adrian and Mike alternated leads.
Mike Frost, Adrian W
Led the full chimney section as one 60m pitch. First "proper" winter lead, very well protected.
Mike Frost, Sarah Hawker
my first "proper" winter climb! windy top out and lots of snow and sloughage.
Pitch one banked out so was able to run pitches 1 & 2 together with a 60m rope. Pitch 3 took us to the top. Good wee route that only took us 50 minutes which was ideal given the poor weather conditions. The weather obviously put everyone else off as we were the only people in the entire Corrie.
Both soloed P1, led P2. Excellent route, good gear, good condition.
|Julie Black||?/Feb/13||AltLd O/S||
Did as alternate lead as a guinea pig for MIC exam. Led second to last pitch, with lovely short ice section.
|Steven Andrews||27/Jan/13||Lead O/S||
Powder and rock mostly. Seemed quite tricky
|Steve Perry||16/Jan/13||Lead O/S||
Occasional frozen turf and powder.
|Jay C||01/Jan/13||AltLd O/S||
|David Weston||30/Dec/12||2nd O/S||
Horrible weather but a nice climb, scary enough for now...
1st ever winter route, led middle pitch, nightmare building belay, we lost dans rope off of the top
Bit of clearing needed. Great route.
Great route, great conditions!
Good craic! Good conditions, snow firmer as climbed higher. Fun crux!
1st winter route and 1st on Route. Mike growled his way up a difficult section with little gear. Good climbing, however little Ice and very powdering snow
3 pitches - Simon led the first two, up The Slant and up to the base of the chimney, I led P3, the chimney itself. In good nick, though a little powdery.
Super climb, a bit lean which added to its character esp over the crux . Definitely climbing as a III
Led chimney pitch. Great conditions.
Another great route with good conditions and great weather, not a breath of wind all day.
Lead 2nd pitch.
paul led the slant for the approach, loose snow and nothing for axes. chimeny itself harder than usual but plenty good pro to be had.
|Dave Douglas||11/Feb/12||Lead rpt||
Taking Andy Hall for first winter climb. Full on thaw in progress so not much else to do. Trciky for a first winter climb though.
|Mark Wilson23||05/Feb/12||Lead O/S||
wild day out. nice route.
John Pickles' lead. Great route in lean conditions. Over the chockstone
|John Pickles||01/Feb/12||Lead rpt||
Owen John, Lewis Thompson
First winter route. Very thin sustained line !
lean conditions - no real neve build up on the 2nd pitch led to lots of thrutching and torquing - defo grade 3 :) awesome!!
A right hand variation at Grade II
|Andy Moles||26/Jan/12||Solo O/S||
good lean nick
Good climb. Lean conditions. Went under the chockstone.
First winter lead.
Nice route, sunny day, turf frozen, good torques to be had in cracks, lots of gear, good first outing of the season.
P2, P4. Took a higher belay stance for P2. Felt exposed at start due to lack of axe placements. P3 was excellent pitch for torquing and deserves the 2*'s all by itself for quality of climbing given.
Giles and Egons Issy
Glenmore Giles, Maria Brierley
|Rich Thornton||09/Jan/12||2nd O/S||
Winter Skills Trip: Guide - Chris Ensoll
Chris Ensoll, Matt Breakell, Mike Smith, Ryan McGlen, Remy Bertlin, Tom Kirby
Same style again, Smithy lead, we seconded.
Led on pre-placed gear with instructor.
|Martin Haworth||08/Jan/12||AltLd O/S||
|Andrew Sloan||08/Jan/12||AltLd O/S||
Led chimney pitch, not much ice. Quite sporty for the grade.
icy but melting rapidly lots of fun
lead the first pitch, should be soloed really, as there is hardly any gear and the climbing is easy. Nice conditions, neve in the beginning, iced up rock on top. Ridiculously windy at the top.
Warming through the day and pretty slushy to be honest. Made it quite interesting.
good conditions, bad weather.
Perfect conditions, well rimed but not swimming with powder
|Tom Keaveny||05/Jan/12||AltLd O/S||
Part of a winter skills course, gear was all pre placed. Done in two pitches, I lead the first.
|Xavier Evans||05/Jan/12||Lead O/S||
chris hig, sam d
Very little snow but nice 1st route of the trip
Climbed with Geoff and Andy led crux which felt tricky under loose powder
Geoff and Andy
cracking good route, great fun
Very interesting very thin conditions
I LEAD FROM THE SLANT to base of HC then jerome lead the crux and andy the last bit . great day , i think it was may be a 4
A challenging day out on Sechtha. Had to wait for the ski road to open and a pretty wild and windy approach followed. There were a few parties out but most turned back once the full on conditions at the base of the crag were encountered and gearing up was an event in itself . On the route it wasn't too bad, with me volunteering Percy to lead both pitches thinking speed to be of the essence, wise move. First pitch (2) was pretty runout once round the corner, I'd guess as a result of the deposits of snow and spindrift. Second Pitch (3) was a cracker with all that torqueing and hooking stuff a first for me. Oh and the T. MacCarthy experimental axes were a resounding success! Percy's advice on resting my grip frequently seemed to avoid the hot aches on the second pitch. Getting blown over on the top, a long return left me pretty knackered. It seems that if you are a couple of stone shy of a propper manly weight and you use those ski poles that you miss out on disappearing up to your thighs every 10 yards.
|Dave Douglas||12/Dec/11||AltLd O/S|
|Mhairi G||11/Dec/11||2nd β|
Great route! Good but spaced pro on first pitch, but at an ameniable angle. More technical 2nd pitch well protected but III in those conditions. Don't do shite like The Runnel and do this route!
prof Tim, james
After climbing the Haston Line which Elsie lead the first crux pitch, I lead the second to the base of Hidden Chimney and lead the final crux pitch. Went up the left of the crux instead of the narrow ledges on the right. Very lean conditions. Chock stone not banked out at all. Quite airy climbing on the chimney crux.
Walked in intending to do The Seam, realised I'd forgotten my harness, so after improvising with a sling and reassessing we ended up on HC. Although I'd didn't lead properly I did top out after running out the last 15m. Strong winds, gusts of between 50-60mph.
In combination with the Haston Line. Route very lean with a through-route under the chockstone near the top! Warrants III, 4 at the moment
|nigel pearson||20/Mar/11||AltLd O/S||
It was quite warm and ice in chimney was starting to melt. soft snow on base of neve on rest of climb.
bit of swim in places but solid underneath. chimney a had some ice. vague cornice avoided on the left.
With Di G who led the route. Deep powder.
|Jack Doyle||12/Mar/11||AltLd β|
|The Green Giant||02/Mar/11||2nd O/S||
|Daniel Sutherland||26/Feb/11||AltLd O/S|
|Ross Young||26/Feb/11||AltLd O/S|
|Liam Martin||26/Feb/11||AltLd O/S|
|andrzej kierzek||25/Feb/11||Lead O/S||
It was in lean condition so the chimney was grade III mixed I hope. I lead all the pitches.
Nice route, would have been happy to lead.
|gordon henderson||07/Feb/11||AltLd O/S||
Climbed in three pitches. Led the first.
First grade III. Lead 2nd and 3rd (crux) pitches. Great 3rd pitch with good ice, fun mixed climbing and good gear.
Glenmore Lodge course - Winter Climbing Intro...GREAT COURSE
Moved together up first bit j leading, I lead chimney pitch. Great fun! Really good gear and good moves to get over chockstones
Rach lead the chimney pitch, a nice and well protected climb.
Nice easy route to end the day, again in excellent nick!!!
Chimney pitch was excellent
led to bottom of chimney
Only did the top pitch really as an alternative finish to "The Haston Line" - Really fun, well protected climbing!
Stevie Addison, Jimmy Addison
|Jack Loftus||07/Jan/11||AltLd O/S|
|Steven Andrews||06/Jan/11||Lead O/S||
Snow, rock, ice and a wee bit of turf - perfect.
James Chesmer, Tim Slater
|Neil D||03/Jan/11||Lead O/S|
Well led by James. Crux was best bit.
Soloed most of route, put rope on for last pitch (split for in middle for comedy value)
excellent conditions with some useable snow. great climbing in the chimney!
Simon Pearce, Debbie Lee
Frank Palmer, Ally Hurst
Slow going through the powder
My 1st winter climbing experience loved every bit of it
Seeing as its so late in the season the climb was pretty wet but still had some solid stuff on the upper crux. Crux is cool but ended up using hands more than axes due to lack of wintery stuff.:)
|Andy Hewison||?/Apr/10||Lead O/S||
Geoff Comley, Steve T
The move through the top of the chimney was a challenge. Hot aches and a good bit of fear. Complete white out at the top so a challenge getting down and in to the climb for that matter
awkward chockstone at top of climb
|whispering nic||10/Mar/10||Lead O/S|
Glenmore Lodge Winter Lead Climb Course
First grade II/III climb. Low visibility. Caught in queue. Actual climbing was excellent.
Andrew A, James K
|augustus trout||03/Feb/10||2nd O/S|
k murray, konacol
Windy! The climbing was really enjoyable, the walk off not so much. Great day out and learnt lots. Cheers Dan.
chockstone was not completely banked out, some interesting and airy climbing over and above it...
|Dave Latimer||?/Apr/09||AltLd O/S|
Pitch order: Me, Miles, Elsie. Thin conditions. Elsie did most of the hard work in the chimney but an awesome climb
Elsie and Miles
First grade III, quite exciting in the conditions!
First grade III - I led the second pitch of three, which was mostly surprisingly good ice. Elsie led the crux at the top, Michael the exposed balancey section at the bottom. Generally good conditions, until we topped out into the wind!
A great little route but with no build up was harder than 3 i fink. Leaseless for me from now
|Danny Boy Dunbar||07/Mar/09||AltLd||
Amazin day lovely climb.
Solo'd first pitch (silly idea in retrospect). Conditions were reasonable but not amazing.
no ice or snow ice - made it hard under 6 inches of powder
Soft wet snow on lower pitches with frozen turf, but rock only in the chimney. No ice !!
Dad led crux chimney, not in great condition
no snow / ice on chimney pitch
Awesome, in great nick, stole the chimney pitch.
Duanne led first pitch, I did second.
Greg Nunn, Sam Arnold
Pitch 1 and 2 were easy going. Found the chimney itself hard going. The soft snow didnt help.
|Only a hill||23/Jan/09||Lead O/S||
Tom's first winter route, a fine effort! A good climb too, solid III on the top pitch in the conditions.
Nice route, short tricky section. Monica 1st scottish winter route, Mal 1st III.
Mal and Monica
|John Pickles||?/Jan/09||Lead rpt||
first winter route! lots of powder. lovely day
Good fun. Ice a bit thin.
Lead first 3 pitches (my second ever winter climb)
I led pitches one and three
Full of powder snow, with little ice. Chimney was hard. III in these conditions.
Craig the Safa and Andy Turner
Climbed on snowed up rock, no ice. Made the chimney hard, warrenting grade III
glenmore guinea pig. excellent climb.
George + (led by Garry)
Felt hard in lean, icy conditions. Nice contrast to yesterday (sport climbing and bouldering in t-shirts)
|Jamie Light||18/Feb/07||2nd O/S||
Excellent Neve, top pitch was a bit powdery, Nice 1 Matt for leading it out!
|Southern Mark Smith||??/2007||-|
more unconsolidated conditions. Top chimney was technical and proper mixed moves
Direct start was as hard as any of the climbing on The Seam
Jim Danson, Ben
|John Pickles||?/Feb/06||Lead O/S|
Denise & Kevin
|Chris L Hill||?/Dec/04||2nd||
Di Gilbert, Stuart Shaw
|The Bad Cough||29/Feb/04||AltLd O/S|
Andy E + Tom
Plas y Brenin
|Jamie Simpson||?/Jan/04||AltLd O/S||
& Peter Kelly