UKC Logbook - 'Mike's Mistake'

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Avon > Avon Gorge (Main Area) >

Mike's Mistake

E1 5b

Adjacent Climbs
<< Morty's Error

Lime in de Coconut >>

Spicy climbing up the centre of Morning Slab. High in the grade. Start at an old, small tree-stump just before the ground rises up to the left.. 1) 5b, 35m. Climb to the first overhang and pull over it into a right-leaning groove. Move up to a bolt and then step right and upwards with difficulty to easier ground and a peg. Climb up to the second band of overhangs past another peg, and pull through to the slab above. Pad up this to a tree and bolted belay.. 2) 18m. Finish up the third pitch of Dawn Walk. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS

This climb is in 127 logbooks, and on no wishlists.

Dibdawg - Lead O/S - 18/May/13 with Richard Snow

tommytuffa - Lead O/S - 13/May/13

Beautiful route. Led the second "pitch".
squicky - AltLd O/S - 13/May/13

Felt a bit necky above the bolt.
Alex Winter - Lead O/S - 05/May/13 with James

James S - 2nd O/S - 05/May/13 with alex

aipattison - 2nd O/S - 30/Apr/13 with George Evans

Excellent climb. Been wanting to do it for ages. Constantly challenging and a bit bold but never terrifying. The replacement of the pegs has made a huge difference.
georgeevans88 - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/13 with Alex Pattison

evhall - Lead rpt - 03/Mar/13 with colin

Kevster - Lead O/S - 02/Mar/13 with Gavin

Gavdee1 - 2nd - 02/Mar/13

I thought the crux[s] were a litte bold and hard for the grade, but nothing strenuous or committing, very easy to reverse a few moves and rest. Majority of pegs replaced with decent new ones. Good route
Cheese Monkey - Lead O/S - 24/Feb/13 with Peter

enjoyable to second.
pheotleyr - 2nd β - 24/Feb/13 with Ben

Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 08/Dec/12 with Iain Moodie

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Dec/12

alidixon - 2nd - Aug/12

2nd.
alidixon - 2nd - 15/Jul/12

Had seconded the route with Jon a few days previously.
richiebongo - Lead RP - 11/Jul/12 with Nick Smith, Jon Didymus

Certainly spicey leaving the ageing bolt behind and heading for the pegs - luckily found a Wallnut 5 in between. Take lots of micros and big cams
Jon Didymus - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/12 with Rich

Feels completely different to second! The crux of this climb is definitely in your head.
Nick Russell - 2nd rpt - 17/Jun/12 with Martin

Led pitch 1. Personally it didn't seem any more run out than any other average E1 I mean the two cams which Protect the section up to the peg and bolt are good and then the bolt keeps you pretty much safe until you get to the further 3 pegs which are all ok. The top slab is a little run out but by the time you have got that far the climbing is no harder than 4a anyway so the run out isn't that much of a problem. Middle to low E1 with a sustained 5a crux section.
Quarryboy - AltLd O/S - 31/May/12 with James Rich

I good steady lead from jack on the first pitch. I was distraught when I found out the top pitch didn't even get 4a as I climbed it so slowly and placed around 10 runners in total.
JamesRich - AltLd O/S - 31/May/12 with Jack Bradbrook

Really sweaty climbing in direct sunlight! Exciting face climbing with sparse protection
cbeard - Lead O/S - 26/May/12 with Will Attridge

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 26/May/12

When you get gear it is good, but there are some run out sections! One low down (ish) 5b move going up to the bolt and peg which was indeed scary! Well worth at least a star!
Stanners - Lead O/S - 25/May/12 with Kyle Williamson

Nothing too hard, but some interesting puzzles. Climbed in head torch, which makes a footwork route like this harder!
Poco Loco - 2nd O/S - 24/May/12 with Will Wykes

Pete Rigby - Lead O/S - 16/May/12 with Kelli Roberts

kelliroberts3 - 2nd - 16/May/12 with Peter Rigby

I led P1, Jason took us up to lunchtime ledge. Brilliant, technical climbing
Nick Russell - AltLd O/S - 13/May/12 with Jason

Nice pitch. Even though its not steep its all slopey footholds and small crimps, sidepulls n undercuts so keeps you on your toes, awesome!
Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 11/May/12 with Annie, Adam

arb89 - 2nd - May/12 with Mike Goldthorp

haydng - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/12 with Dave

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Feb/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/11

squeezed the last light out of the day
msoldn - Lead O/S - 13/May/11 with Rory

Thought this was easy peasy on second. Might feel different on lead!
ruaidh - 2nd - 12/May/11 with Michael

westyb3 - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/11 with Matt Cox

A bit run out before and after the bolt, with the tough couple of moves not particularly well protected. Lots of fun!
middlemarker - AltLd - 18/Sep/10 with Joris

Alasdair88 - Lead rpt - 13/Aug/10 with Paula

_m.cox_ - Lead O/S - Aug/10 with Jason Williams

mikeyg - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/10 with Will Twigger

Hidden - 2nd - 31/Jan/10

ian d f - 2nd O/S - 2010 with Pete H

Took ages to work out the way at the crux. A worthwhile climb.
Adam Booth - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/09

Alasdair88 - 2nd O/S - 01/Aug/09 with Malins

Al Franks - 2nd O/S - Aug/09 with Alex

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/09

Took an interesting line more or less straight up for 2 pitches after the route finished to get to the top. Good fun.
Somerset swede basher - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/09 with Mike Kann

Can't say I enjoyed this. Very hot day didn't help.
Caspar - 2nd - 01/Jun/09 with Simon Reynolds

lead in one pitch, didnt like it, too hot a day and was sliding everywhere. More survival climbing in places. though the top slab climbing was very nice (ignoring the rope drag from skipping a belay)
scorpia97 - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/09 with Caspian

first E1 this season - nice easy intro
evhall - Lead O/S - 16/May/09 with SM

mark89 - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/09

Scary crux (moving up after the first overhang I thought), good fun though. Matt led the second pitch.
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/08 with Matt Frank

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Feb/08

Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 08/Feb/08 with Kyle

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2008

Spacetourist - 2nd O/S - 2008 with Ed Heslam

Great first pitch, bit like Three Pebble Slab, but 3 times as long! Dave led the scrappy 2nd pitch, we might have been better to skip it.
Chris the Tall - AltLd O/S - 10/Nov/07 with Dave J

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Nov/07

Finally found the (hangerless) bolt I saw some random spanish cavers placing, right of the top bulge a couple of years ago.
Paz - 2nd rpt - 26/Oct/07 with TS2

Bold Crux
The Pylon King - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/07 with Fiend

dycotiles - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/07 with Eric

Hidden - Lead rpt - 01/Aug/07

Marti999 - Lead - 05/Apr/07 with Mark Glaister

Hidden - 2007

my first e1, loved it. Remember scared to death the night before knowing i was gonna try this. haha. Chose this route due to its original name by the FA: Lucifer
Silum - Lead - 2007

tom.e - 2nd rpt - 27/Apr/06 with Charlie Everett

Wouldn't have been as bad if the flake I put a cam behind hadn't decided to move and reject said gear placement when I stood on it.
RedFox - Lead O/S - 09/Feb/06 with Tom K

mike kann - 2nd - 2006 with Rob Scheicl

Bern - 2006

John Lisle - 2006

Hidden - 2006

with Tim Rolfe's reeeeaally long rope...
JamieAyres - TR rpt - 10/Jun/05 with Nick Ingram

Jason Gotel - Lead - Jun/05 with Pippa Lansdown

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/05

tom.e - Lead β - 2005

Hidden - Lead rpt - 2005

Hidden - AltLd - May/04

Lev - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/04

IceMonkey1982 - 2004