Rockfax Description
Spicy climbing up the centre of Morning Slab. High in the grade. Start at an old, small tree-stump just before the ground rises up to the left.
1) 5b, 35m. Climb to the first overhang and pull over it into a right-leaning groove. Move up to a bolt and then step right and upwards with difficulty to easier ground and a peg. Climb up to the second band of overhangs past another peg, and pull through to the slab above. Pad up this to a tree and bolted belay.
2) 18m. Finish up the third pitch of Dawn Walk. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, George's Evening Gorge Ticklist.


ClimberDateStyle
Alasdair88 12/Sep Lead rpt
Gingerlings 12/Sep 2nd
Derek Ryden 14/Aug Lead O/S
No? Yes! 14/Aug 2nd

Nice to follow this time

Hidden 17/Jul Lead dnf
Hugobristol 14/Jul Lead rpt
with Eleanor
EC 14/Jul 2nd

Easiest part of our epic! Nothing like the 4c Downclimb of Doom

with Hugo
No? Yes! 09/Jul Lead rpt

Great technical & thoughtful climbing .Good pegs after the 1st one.Didn't have any cams back in the mid 80's so my hazy memory of it was very run out - felt less daunting this time with med & small cams

with Bern
Rob Moorcroft 16/Apr 2nd
with Richard Ive
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
Cheese Monkey 17/Oct/15 2nd rpt
with Patrick
patrickcd 17/Oct/15 Lead
with Ben
ollie_e 02/Sep/15 Lead rpt
with Caspian
Caspian Johnson 02/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with ollie_e
Jack Porteous 21/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S
sheelba 24/Jun/15 2nd
with Max
Legs 24/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Airing climbing above good gear. Glad I had a crack at it. Really nice slabby climbing to finish with after the delicate earlier moves. Found the crux challenging. Eventually worked it out.

Hugobristol 10/May/15 Lead O/S

Expected it to be much bolder, the pegs are new and the one runout section has a (concealed) solid nut halfway. Good climbing nonetheless.

with Liam
sheelba 23/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Kevin
LucasHarazin 21/Apr/15 Lead O/S
felixizzy 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Been wanting to do this for a while, Didn't find it too bad but you gotta think about what you're doing.

with misha
danmullett ??/2015 -
Hidden 06/Dec/14 Lead O/S
hutchay 25/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Lovely bit of technical climbing in the lower bold section until you reach the peg.

with Fliss
Hidden 26/Jul/14 Lead
spidey 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with luke clarke
NancyJones 25/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Mike
Hidden 25/Jun/14 Lead O/S
pheotleyr 26/May/14 Lead rpt

E1 5a? Spicy crux high above a peg.

with Mike
Hidden 26/May/14 2nd
Neil ??/2014 Lead O/S
mike mo ??/2014 -
ollie_e 30/Nov/13 Lead O/S
chrisscutt 30/Nov/13 AltLd O/S
with oly
Hidden 12/Sep/13 Lead O/S
AJM 12/Sep/13 2nd β

Very Avon - a delicate runout!

George Frisby 06/Sep/13 2nd O/S
zcsharp 06/Sep/13 Lead rpt
leigh 05/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with Kev
zcsharp 29/Aug/13 Lead dnf

Unfortunately rain forced me off the route.

with Chris Stafford
BeccaSnowden 11/Jul/13 Lead β

Had previously backed off half way but today managed to commit to the scary bit. Surprised that the difficulties remained long after. If two E1s on top of each other made an E2, then this would be E2!

with Alex Blaza
Dr Toph 18/Jun/13 Lead O/S

The bolt is gone, but pegs in decent nick. The odd loose block and flake, especially lower down. Lovely balancy delicate climbing!

with Emily
Velo Orange 17/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Toph
Dibdawg 18/May/13 Lead O/S
with Richard Snow
tommytuffa 13/May/13 Lead O/S
squicky 13/May/13 AltLd O/S

Beautiful route. Led the second "pitch".

with Tommy
Alex Winter 05/May/13 Lead O/S

Felt a bit necky above the bolt (probs because I forgot to clip it)

with James
James S 05/May/13 2nd O/S
with alex
aipattison 30/Apr/13 2nd O/S
georgeevans88 30/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Excellent climb. Been wanting to do it for ages. Constantly challenging and a bit bold but never terrifying. The replacement of the pegs has made a huge difference.

Hidden 03/Mar/13 Lead rpt
Kevster 02/Mar/13 Lead O/S
Gavdee1 02/Mar/13 2nd
Cheese Monkey 24/Feb/13 Lead O/S

I thought the crux[s] were a litte bold and hard for the grade, but nothing strenuous or committing, very easy to reverse a few moves and rest. Majority of pegs replaced with decent new ones. Good route

with Peter
pheotleyr 24/Feb/13 2nd β

enjoyable to second.

with Ben
jcw ??/2013 -
Ed Babs 08/Dec/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Dec/12 2nd O/S
alidixon ?/Aug/12 2nd
alidixon 15/Jul/12 2nd

2nd.

richiebongo 11/Jul/12 Lead RP

Had seconded the route with Jon a few days previously.

with Nick Smith, Jon Didymus
Didymus 09/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Certainly spicey leaving the ageing bolt behind and heading for the pegs - luckily found a Wallnut 5 in between. Take lots of micros and big cams

with Rich
Nick Russell 17/Jun/12 2nd rpt

Feels completely different to second! The crux of this climb is definitely in your head.

with Martin
Quarryboy 31/May/12 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1. Personally it didn't seem any more run out than any other average E1 I mean the two cams which Protect the section up to the peg and bolt are good and then the bolt keeps you pretty much safe until you get to the further 3 pegs which are all ok. The top slab is a little run out but by the time you have got that far the climbing is no harder than 4a anyway so the run out isn't that much of a problem. Middle to low E1 with a sustained 5a crux section.

JamesRich 31/May/12 AltLd O/S

I good steady lead from jack on the first pitch. I was distraught when I found out the top pitch didn't even get 4a as I climbed it so slowly and placed around 10 runners in total.

cbeard 26/May/12 Lead O/S

Really sweaty climbing in direct sunlight! Exciting face climbing with sparse protection

Hidden 26/May/12 2nd rpt
Stanners 25/May/12 Lead O/S

When you get gear it is good, but there are some run out sections! One low down (ish) 5b move going up to the bolt and peg which was indeed scary! Well worth at least a star!

Poco Loco 24/May/12 2nd O/S

Nothing too hard, but some interesting puzzles. Climbed in head torch, which makes a footwork route like this harder!

with Will Wykes
Pete Rigby 16/May/12 Lead O/S
with Kelli Roberts
kelliroberts3 16/May/12 2nd
Nick Russell 13/May/12 AltLd O/S

I led P1, Jason took us up to lunchtime ledge. Brilliant, technical climbing

with Jason
Mike Goldthorp 11/May/12 Lead O/S

Nice pitch. Even though its not steep its all slopey footholds and small crimps, sidepulls n undercuts so keeps you on your toes, awesome!

with Annie, Adam
arb89 ?/May/12 2nd
with Mike Goldthorp
haydng 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Dave
Hidden 19/Feb/12 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2012 Lead
Hidden 06/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Jul/11 2nd RP
msoldn 13/May/11 Lead O/S

squeezed the last light out of the day

with Rory
ruaidh 12/May/11 2nd

Thought this was easy peasy on second. Might feel different on lead!

with Michael
westyb3 14/Apr/11 Lead O/S
manwithacam 18/Sep/10 AltLd

A bit run out before and after the bolt, with the tough couple of moves not particularly well protected. Lots of fun!

with Joris
Alasdair88 13/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Paula
_m.cox_ ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Jason Williams
mikeyg 31/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Jan/10 2nd
ian d f ??/2010 2nd O/S
with Pete H
Adam Booth 31/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Took ages to work out the way at the crux. A worthwhile climb.

Alasdair88 01/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with Malins
Al Franks ?/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with Alex
Hidden 30/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Somerset swede basher 04/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Took an interesting line more or less straight up for 2 pitches after the route finished to get to the top. Good fun.

with Mike Kann
Hidden 01/Jun/09 2nd
scorpia97 01/Jun/09 Lead O/S

lead in one pitch, didnt like it, too hot a day and was sliding everywhere. More survival climbing in places. though the top slab climbing was very nice (ignoring the rope drag from skipping a belay)

with Caspian
Hidden 16/May/09 Lead O/S
mark89 19/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
thomasadixon 09/Apr/08 Lead O/S

Scary crux (moving up after the first overhang I thought), good fun though. Matt led the second pitch.

with Matt Frank
Hidden 04/Apr/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Feb/08 Lead O/S
Bristoldave 08/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Kyle
Hidden ??/2008 Lead O/S
Spacetourist ??/2008 2nd O/S
with Ed Heslam
Chris the Tall 10/Nov/07 AltLd O/S

Great first pitch, bit like Three Pebble Slab, but 3 times as long! Dave led the scrappy 2nd pitch, we might have been better to skip it.

with Dave J
Hidden 10/Nov/07 2nd O/S
Paz 26/Oct/07 2nd rpt

Finally found the (hangerless) bolt I saw some random spanish cavers placing, right of the top bulge a couple of years ago.

with TS2
Mark Davies 17/Aug/07 Lead O/S

Bold Crux

with Fiend
dycotiles 11/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Eric
Hidden 01/Aug/07 Lead rpt
Marti999 05/Apr/07 Lead
Hidden ??/2007 -
Silum ??/2007 Lead

my first e1, loved it. Remember scared to death the night before knowing i was gonna try this. haha. Chose this route due to its original name by the FA: Lucifer

tom.e 27/Apr/06 2nd rpt
with Charlie Everett
sdi 09/Feb/06 Lead O/S

Wouldn't have been as bad if the flake I put a cam behind hadn't decided to move and reject said gear placement when I stood on it.

with Tom K
beardy mike ??/2006 2nd
with Rob Scheicl
Hidden ??/2006 -
John Lisle ??/2006 -
Marcus ??/2006 -
JamieAyres 10/Jun/05 TR rpt

with Tim Rolfe's reeeeaally long rope...

Jason Gotel ?/Jun/05 Lead
with Pippa Lansdown
Hidden ?/Apr/05 Lead O/S
tom.e ??/2005 Lead β
Hidden ??/2005 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/May/04 AltLd
Lev 19/Mar/04 Lead O/S
IceMonkey1982 ??/2004 -
Digger 17/Jun/03 2nd dog
with James Latham
KRB 22/Apr/03 Lead O/S
with Chris & Martin
DavidR 12/May/02 Lead O/S

My first E1 lead.

with John Marston
pezzerrr ?/Apr/02 Lead O/S
Paz ??/2002 Lead O/S

Rained.

with RB
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 -
Gudge ??/2000 AltLd O/S
with Jim Brooke
alan moore ??/2000 -

Desperate.

John Southworth 22/Aug/99 Lead O/S
with Vicky Munn
Hidden ?/May/96 2nd O/S
mikej 28/Oct/95 2nd
with Nick Salmon
Jim Brooke ?/Oct/95 2nd O/S
with Jon Stevens
DavidR ?/Apr/95 2nd O/S
with John Marston and Nathan Rippin
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/95 Lead
steve taylor ??/1995 -
AndySL ??/1995 2nd O/S
with Mark
NeilGriffiths 16/Oct/94 -
with Duncs
chris sm 15/Oct/94 Lead O/S
with Martin Sime
sniffer ??/1989 Lead
with Paul Thomas
AndyB123 ??/1989 AltLd
with Andy E
Hidden 19/Jun/88 Lead dnf
eroica64 21/Feb/88 2nd
with Denis Crampton
Moses 18/Aug/87 Lead O/S
surfbish ?/May/87 Lead O/S
Bullybones ??/1987 Lead
sadams 21/Dec/86 Lead
with Guy Townsend
Pete Nugent 19/Apr/86 Lead β

2nd previously

Mike Owen 10/Aug/85 -
with Elaine Owen
JamieAyres ?/Aug/85 Lead rpt

previously 2nd'ed it with Graham Aveyard & Guy Percival

with Peter Rickard
Pete Nugent 11/Mar/85 2nd

HVS***, 4a,5a,- at the time (S.Monks 1980 guide)

with Ian Makin
TonyF 01/Jun/84 Lead
with Paul Harrison
Ena ?/Jul/83 2nd
with Martin Trouse
andy gittins ??/1983 -
andy gittins ??/1983 -
Hidden ?/Aug/82 Solo rpt
Nigel Coe 14/Mar/82 AltLd
with Tim Dunsby
John Marsland ??/1982 Lead
with Dave Nicholson (HMC)
Nic Robinson 01/Sep/81 Lead O/S
with Richard Dickenson
stp 18/Jul/81 Lead O/S

Lead pitch 2

mark-abz 16/Jun/81 Lead
with Pete C
Hidden ?/Mar/81 Lead O/S
Brian Wilderspin 30/Nov/80 AltLd
with Walter Phipps
Hidden ??/1980 Lead O/S
Nevil ??/1980 -

Do not know year

Steve Bell ??/1979 -
Steve Lewis 08/Sep/78 AltLd O/S
with Pat
charlesmfrench ??/1978 AltLd O/S

2,L

Brian Wilderspin ?/Aug/77 AltLd
Hidden 13/Mar/77 2nd O/S
Ken Taylor 17/Feb/76 Lead O/S
with George Diprose
Nigel Bond 04/Jan/75 Lead
with Ben Foord
Andy Chubb ??/1975 -
with Phil Jardine
Rob Davies 07/Dec/74 2nd

Seemed very hard at the time, as it was given only VS 4b, though maybe holds have dropped off since then

with Joseph Cullen (ICMC)
tapley 15/May/74 Lead
with Alison Tapley
Bolt Phobia 23/Sep/73 -
Steve Woollard ??/1973 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove 20/Sep/69 AltLd
with Andy Wild, Dennis Gray
Hidden ?/Jun/67 2nd
Hidden ??/1965 AltLd
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Angrypenguin, Hidden, Roget, Hidden, Hidden, smartydh9, Legs
Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 45
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 45
Votes cast 40
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Dogged
Not Set