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Mike's Mistake* E1 5b

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Spicy climbing up the centre of Morning Slab. High in the grade. Start at an old, small tree-stump just before the ground rises up to the left.. 1) 5b, 35m. Climb to the first overhang and pull over it into a right-leaning groove. Move up to a bolt and then step right and upwards with difficulty to easier ground and a peg. Climb up to the second band of overhangs past another peg, and pull through to the slab above. Pad up this to a tree and bolted belay.. 2) 18m. Finish up the third pitch of Dawn Walk. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 144 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

Neil - Lead O/S - 2014

thedoctorisin - Lead O/S - 30/Nov/13 with chris scutt

chrisscutt - AltLd O/S - 30/Nov/13 with oly

certainly a bit run out in places, but honestly didn't think at was all that hard or scary
hms - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/13 with AJM

Very Avon - a delicate runout!
AJM - 2nd β - 12/Sep/13 with Helen Seaborne

George Frisby - 2nd O/S - 06/Sep/13

zcsharp - Lead rpt - 06/Sep/13 with George Frisby

leigh - 2nd O/S - 05/Sep/13 with Kev

Unfortunately rain forced me off the route.
zcsharp - Lead dnf - 29/Aug/13 with Chris Stafford

Had previously backed off half way but today managed to commit to the scary bit. Surprised that the difficulties remained long after. If two E1s on top of each other made an E2, then this would be E2!
BeccaSnowden - Lead β - 11/Jul/13 with Alex Blaza

The bolt is gone, but pegs in decent nick. The odd loose block and flake, especially lower down. Lovely balancy delicate climbing!
Dr Toph - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/13 with Emily

Velo Orange - 2nd O/S - 17/Jun/13 with Toph

Dibdawg - Lead O/S - 18/May/13 with Richard Snow

tommytuffa - Lead O/S - 13/May/13

Beautiful route. Led the second "pitch".
squicky - AltLd O/S - 13/May/13 with Tommy

Felt a bit necky above the bolt (probs because I forgot to clip it)
Alex Winter - Lead O/S - 05/May/13 with James

James S - 2nd O/S - 05/May/13 with alex

aipattison - 2nd O/S - 30/Apr/13 with George Evans

Excellent climb. Been wanting to do it for ages. Constantly challenging and a bit bold but never terrifying. The replacement of the pegs has made a huge difference.
georgeevans88 - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/13 with Alex Pattison

evhall - Lead rpt - 03/Mar/13 with colin

Kevster - Lead O/S - 02/Mar/13 with Gavin

Gavdee1 - 2nd - 02/Mar/13

I thought the crux[s] were a litte bold and hard for the grade, but nothing strenuous or committing, very easy to reverse a few moves and rest. Majority of pegs replaced with decent new ones. Good route
Cheese Monkey - Lead O/S - 24/Feb/13 with Peter

enjoyable to second.
pheotleyr - 2nd β - 24/Feb/13 with Ben

jcw - 2013

Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 08/Dec/12 with Iain Moodie

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Dec/12

alidixon - 2nd - Aug/12

2nd.
alidixon - 2nd - 15/Jul/12

Had seconded the route with Jon a few days previously.
richiebongo - Lead RP - 11/Jul/12 with Nick Smith, Jon Didymus

Certainly spicey leaving the ageing bolt behind and heading for the pegs - luckily found a Wallnut 5 in between. Take lots of micros and big cams
Jon Didymus - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/12 with Rich

Feels completely different to second! The crux of this climb is definitely in your head.
Nick Russell - 2nd rpt - 17/Jun/12 with Martin

Led pitch 1. Personally it didn't seem any more run out than any other average E1 I mean the two cams which Protect the section up to the peg and bolt are good and then the bolt keeps you pretty much safe until you get to the further 3 pegs which are all ok. The top slab is a little run out but by the time you have got that far the climbing is no harder than 4a anyway so the run out isn't that much of a problem. Middle to low E1 with a sustained 5a crux section.
Quarryboy - AltLd O/S - 31/May/12 with JamesRich

I good steady lead from jack on the first pitch. I was distraught when I found out the top pitch didn't even get 4a as I climbed it so slowly and placed around 10 runners in total.
JamesRich - AltLd O/S - 31/May/12 with Jack Bradbrook

Really sweaty climbing in direct sunlight! Exciting face climbing with sparse protection
cbeard - Lead O/S - 26/May/12 with Will Attridge

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 26/May/12

When you get gear it is good, but there are some run out sections! One low down (ish) 5b move going up to the bolt and peg which was indeed scary! Well worth at least a star!
Stanners - Lead O/S - 25/May/12 with Kyle Williamson

Nothing too hard, but some interesting puzzles. Climbed in head torch, which makes a footwork route like this harder!
Poco Loco - 2nd O/S - 24/May/12 with Will Wykes

Pete Rigby - Lead O/S - 16/May/12 with Kelli Roberts

kelliroberts3 - 2nd - 16/May/12 with Peter Rigby

I led P1, Jason took us up to lunchtime ledge. Brilliant, technical climbing
Nick Russell - AltLd O/S - 13/May/12 with Jason

Nice pitch. Even though its not steep its all slopey footholds and small crimps, sidepulls n undercuts so keeps you on your toes, awesome!
Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 11/May/12 with Annie, Adam

arb89 - 2nd - May/12 with Mike Goldthorp

haydng - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/12 with Dave

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Feb/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/11

squeezed the last light out of the day
msoldn - Lead O/S - 13/May/11 with Rory

Thought this was easy peasy on second. Might feel different on lead!
ruaidh - 2nd - 12/May/11 with Michael

westyb3 - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/11 with Matt Cox

A bit run out before and after the bolt, with the tough couple of moves not particularly well protected. Lots of fun!
manwithacam - AltLd - 18/Sep/10 with Joris

Alasdair88 - Lead rpt - 13/Aug/10 with Paula

_m.cox_ - Lead O/S - Aug/10 with Jason Williams

mikeyg - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/10 with Will Twigger

Hidden - 2nd - 31/Jan/10

ian d f - 2nd O/S - 2010 with Pete H

Took ages to work out the way at the crux. A worthwhile climb.
Adam Booth - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/09

Alasdair88 - 2nd O/S - 01/Aug/09 with Malins

Al Franks - 2nd O/S - Aug/09 with Alex

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/09

Took an interesting line more or less straight up for 2 pitches after the route finished to get to the top. Good fun.
Somerset swede basher - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/09 with Mike Kann

Can't say I enjoyed this. Very hot day didn't help.
Caspar - 2nd - 01/Jun/09 with Simon Reynolds

lead in one pitch, didnt like it, too hot a day and was sliding everywhere. More survival climbing in places. though the top slab climbing was very nice (ignoring the rope drag from skipping a belay)
scorpia97 - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/09 with Caspian

first E1 this season - nice easy intro
evhall - Lead O/S - 16/May/09 with SM

mark89 - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/09

Scary crux (moving up after the first overhang I thought), good fun though. Matt led the second pitch.
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/08 with Matt Frank

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Feb/08

Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 08/Feb/08 with Kyle

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2008

Spacetourist - 2nd O/S - 2008 with Ed Heslam

Great first pitch, bit like Three Pebble Slab, but 3 times as long! Dave led the scrappy 2nd pitch, we might have been better to skip it.
Chris the Tall - AltLd O/S - 10/Nov/07 with Dave J

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Nov/07

Finally found the (hangerless) bolt I saw some random spanish cavers placing, right of the top bulge a couple of years ago.
Paz - 2nd rpt - 26/Oct/07 with TS2

Bold Crux
The Pylon King - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/07 with Fiend

dycotiles - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/07 with Eric

Hidden - Lead rpt - 01/Aug/07

Marti999 - Lead - 05/Apr/07 with Mark Glaister

Hidden - 2007

my first e1, loved it. Remember scared to death the night before knowing i was gonna try this. haha. Chose this route due to its original name by the FA: Lucifer
Silum - Lead - 2007

tom.e - 2nd rpt - 27/Apr/06 with Charlie Everett

Wouldn't have been as bad if the flake I put a cam behind hadn't decided to move and reject said gear placement when I stood on it.
RedFox - Lead O/S - 09/Feb/06 with Tom K

mike kann - 2nd - 2006 with Rob Scheicl

Bern - 2006

John Lisle - 2006

Hidden - 2006

with Tim Rolfe's reeeeaally long rope...
JamieAyres - TR rpt - 10/Jun/05 with Nick Ingram

Jason Gotel - Lead - Jun/05 with Pippa Lansdown

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/05

tom.e - Lead β - 2005

Hidden - Lead rpt - 2005

Hidden - AltLd - May/04

Lev - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/04

IceMonkey1982 - 2004

Digger - 2nd dog - 17/Jun/03 with James Latham

KRB - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/03 with Chris & Martin

My first E1 lead.
DavidR - Lead O/S - 12/May/02 with John Marston

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - Apr/02

Rained.
Paz - Lead O/S - 2002 with RB

Hidden - 2000

Hidden - Lead - 2000

Ally Smith - 2000

Gudge - AltLd O/S - 2000 with Jim Brooke

John Southworth - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/99 with Vicky Munn

Hidden - 2nd O/S - May/96

mikej - 2nd - 28/Oct/95 with Nick Salmon

Jim Brooke - 2nd O/S - Oct/95 with Jon Stevens

DavidR - 2nd O/S - Apr/95 with John Marston and Nathan Rippin

lowersharpnose - Lead - 01/Jan/95

steve taylor - 1995

NeilGriffiths - 16/Oct/94 with Duncs

chris sm - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/94 with Martin Sime

sniffer - Lead - 1989 with Paul Thomas

AndyB123 - AltLd - 1989 with Andy E

ChrisJD - Lead dnf - 19/Jun/88

eroica64 - 2nd - 21/Feb/88 with Denis Crampton

Moses - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/87

surfbish - Lead O/S - May/87

Hidden - Lead - 1987

sadams - Lead - 21/Dec/86 with Guy Townsend

2nd previously
Pete Nugent - Lead β - 19/Apr/86

Mike Owen - 10/Aug/85 with Elaine Owen

previously 2nd'ed it with Graham Aveyard & Guy Percival
JamieAyres - Lead rpt - Aug/85 with Peter Rickard

HVS***, 4a,5a,- at the time (S.Monks 1980 guide)
Pete Nugent - 2nd - 11/Mar/85 with Ian Makin

Ena - 2nd - Jul/83 with Martin Trouse

andy gittins - 1983

andy gittins - 1983

Hidden - Solo rpt - Aug/82

Nigel Coe - AltLd - 14/Mar/82 with Tim Dunsby

John Marsland - Lead - 1982 with Dave Nicholson (HMC)

Nic Robinson - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/81 with Richard Dickenson

Lead pitch 2
stp - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/81

mark-abz - Lead - 16/Jun/81 with Pete C

Hidden - Lead O/S - Mar/81

ian caton - Lead O/S - 1980

2,L
charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 1978

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/Mar/77

Ken Taylor - Lead O/S - 17/Feb/76 with George Diprose

Nigel Bond - Lead - 04/Jan/75 with Ben Foord

Andy Chubb - 1975 with Phil Jardine

Bolt Phobia - 23/Sep/73

Steve Woollard - Lead O/S - 1973

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 20/Sep/69 with Andy Wild, Dennis Gray

Hidden - 2nd - Jun/67

Hidden - AltLd - 1965

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Voting
Total votes cast 106
hard E20 of 36
E20 of 36
easy E25 of 36
hard E111 of 36
E117 of 36
easy E12 of 36
hard HVS1 of 36
HVS0 of 36
easy HVS0 of 36
hard 5c0 of 37
5c0 of 37
easy 5c0 of 37
hard 5b5 of 37
5b22 of 37
easy 5b6 of 37
hard 5a3 of 37
5a1 of 37
easy 5a0 of 37
3 Stars6 of 33
2 Stars18 of 33
1 Star8 of 33
0 Stars1 of 33
Bag of .....0 of 33
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 144 (0.7%)
Lead74 of 144 (51.4%)
Followed38 of 144 (26.4%)
Toproped1 of 144 (0.7%)
Alt Leads15 of 144 (10.4%)
Unknown15 of 144 (10.4%)

'Climbed'46 of 144 (31.9%)
clean O/S77 of 144 (53.5%)
clean β5 of 144 (3.5%)
clean rpt12 of 144 (8.3%)
clean RP1 of 144 (0.7%)
dogged1 of 144 (0.7%)
dnf2 of 144 (1.4%)