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Dreadnought*** E3 5c

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[Dreanought pitch 1, 4 kb]80m, 3 pitches. A phenomenally-exposed route that voyages out across the lip of the Great Cave prior to climbing the massive headwall above. Start as for Moonraker at its hanging stance. Photo on pages 345.. 1) 5c, 36m. Follow Moonraker to the chockstone at the top of its steep crack. Traverse right, out across the lip of the cave to a corner, and climb this to a roof. Traverse rightwards beneath the roof via some constricted moves to an old peg and continue for 3m to a footledge and hanging stance. Friend 3 will be useful for the belay.. 2) 5b, 20m. Move back left to a steep corner/groove and climb it to an overhang at its end. Move out left and up to a deep slot before climbing the wall above, leftwards to a good ledge. The short wall on the right gains a cave and a huge thread belay.. 3) 5b, 23m. Move left out of the cave and climb steep ground to a narrow groove on the right which is followed to a ledge. Ascend the leaning wall above to an overhang and pull though this with difficulty to better holds and easier climbing to the top. © ROCKFAX
Awesome inescapable climbing above the big cave. One of the South West's finest even if you do meet a bit of dirt and the occasional flower. Article on Dreadnought by John Cox here - http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1307 Great Historical article and pictures from Frank cannings here - http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1453
Frank Cannings & Pat Littlejohn 4/4/69 FFA Littlejohn 1977

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, MIA logbook must haves!.

Photo: Dreanought pitch 1 © Sue Hazel
View all 10 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 63 logbooks, and on 32 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/13

Not really a clean onsight as i did have to hang on the rope to get a stubborn nut out but i did do all the moves in sequence, so ill blame remus for the nut. Brilliant climb, haven't had so much exposure in ages and as all the hard bits are traverses they're really scary.
arandall - 2nd O/S - 15/Oct/13 with remus knowles

An outstanding route. Bruce had done it before but that was in another lifetime. I led pitch 1 and 3. I found it very hard to get going on the traverse. It's blind to start with and then bunched up. I managed to reach some low foot holds on the last bit so only a bit bunched up. Felt commiting as you know your going to be hanging in mid space if you come off. Pitch 2 is in an amazing position and quite hard. Great thread belay. Top pitch is fine. The whole thing felt like E4 to me.
PaulTanton - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/13 with Bruce Woodley

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/13

brices - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/13 with Charlie, Sash

lead pitches 1 and 3, great situations but the climbing was a bit disappointing. Would have fallen just before the peg but glanced down at FatRob and the look of derision on his face gave me the impetus to do one final lunge for the jugs.
mike lawrence? - AltLd - 22/Aug/13 with FatRob

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/13

Awesome route! Shame about the style. I think I made the crux hard for myself (certainly felt like 6a and Andrew said he did it very differently!) and rested on a cam after. Still, wild positions, a great experience and I'd definitely do it again.
Nick Russell - AltLd dog - 10/Aug/13 with Andrew Tobin

Fully deserves it's status as a monster sea cliff classic adventure, steep, intimidating, good job young Nick was able to bale me out - was hard, could only lead the top pitch, and fell off that, near the top, good gear though!...
HappyTrundler - AltLd dog - 10/Aug/13 with Nick Russell

Led P1 & P3.
kingholmesy - AltLd O/S - 2013 with Jack Metcalfe

Led p2 - brilliant route. 2 annoying slips p1
Dizz - AltLd - 29/Sep/12 with Hugh T

P1 + 3. There is time to climb moonraker and dreadnought on one low tide. Sensational traverse out over cave to first belay.
Ed Babs - AltLd O/S - 14/Sep/12 with Eddie Young

Very fun. Difficult tides so abbed down to an obvious corner halfway up the first pitch of moonraker. Worked well - just a little down-climb to get established. Great airy awkward moves, you could get very pumped but with miles of air below no need to place too much gear. Position of second belay is just awesome.
quiffhanger - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/12 with Matt

Exposed and amazing climbing on the first pitch, did the route in light rain. I think we were some of the first people on it after the restriction lifted so it was a bit dirty but the climbing made up for it.
Joughton - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/12

Fell off at end of p1. Wasn't climbing well. Amazing route!
Bristoldave - Lead dog - 02/Aug/12 with Dale

2 falls.
Dale Turrell - 2nd dog - 02/Aug/12 with Dave

Pete Graham - AltLd - 24/Feb/12 with Ian Burton, Ben Silvestre

burto - AltLd O/S - 24/Feb/12 with ben silvestre, pete graham

Hidden - 2012

Great day, brought back memories!
robbie Warke - Lead rpt - 16/Sep/11 with Jamie Parfrey

Fantastic route, with wild positions, a beautiful place to be. No guidebook with us as someone had kindly chalked the way for us a couple of days earlier. A route of distinct aroma.
John Mcshea - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/11 with Cherry Bedford

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/11

Fantastic full value climbing! Abbed down moonraker to get in as tides not ideal, dodged fulmar vomit on the way down, real adventure climbing throughout - dirty, damp, sandy breaks on the crux pitch, comedy "slot" and awesome thread belay on second, nice though-provoking wall climbing on third. To the person who complained below about it "needing a good clean", do you think perhaps you're missing the point?
Justin T - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/11 with Crispin

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/11

GeoffG - 2011

Hidden - 2011

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/10 with jacquie robinson

Wow! Wow! Wow! What a route.Drove through pouring rain to reach Brixham in the dry. Soloed round at sea level to hanging belay. Lots of faff sorting ropes. Lead first pitch, steep, hard, steep, hard.1st crux took some working out. 2nd break full of green scunge making holds so slippery. Got peg and slipped off. Annoyed. Misha lead rest of route, still awesome, steep and sustained. We were watched by a harbour seal in the blue water. Topped out in the sunset,best route ever? Home for 2am. Would do it again tomorrow it was that good (might be a little less fragrant!).
philhilo - AltLd - 01/Aug/10 with misha

Best multipitch route I've done to date. Wild exposure, sustained climbing and the prospect of dangling in the air if you come off on P1. Phil did a great job of leading P1. I did P2 (hard E1, or at least felt that way straight after seconding P1, had to rest on the belay after backing off the first few moves) and P3 (easy E1). Really pleased to pull this one off as it was raining in St Agnes in the morning and kept raining most of the way to Brixham, in fact it was drizzling as Phil set off but we figured it would be ok due to the overhangs and were proved right as P1 stayed dry and the drizzle had stopped by the time I set off on P2. The final traverse on P1 was very greasy though. Second ascent of the season - a team got in before us but they must have done a crafty traverse into P1 after abbing in. Guano city on the P2 belay but at least it had dried out! Started scrambling at 3pm and topped out at 9.30pm. Awesome.
Misha - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/10 with Phil

Toby Dunn - AltLd - 18/Aug/09 with Andy Reeve

Second E3 ever, Sandbagged into an apparent "path" By farn which resulted in the most terrifying and amazing trad experience I have had!
Jack_F - AltLd O/S - 13/Aug/09 with sam farnsworth

Great route but not worth 3 stars unless it gets a clean - pitch 2 was slimy and muddy, pith 3 loose rock and pitch 4 vegetated. Great moves and positions though, Emily almost got the crux clean. Doing some of Rainbow bridge after was even more fun!
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/09 with Emily

twright180 - Lead dnf - 2009

tuftynick - 2008

chris j - 2nd rpt - 28/Sep/07 with Fiend

Ben did the business pitch
eddy-on-the-rocks - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/07 with Ben

tonanf - Lead dnf - Jun/07 with james

Rob Kennard - 2007

climber sim - 2007

feilx - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/06 with Chris Havill

Bern - 2006

If you are reading this Chris - sorry about the cams popping on the belay !
shark - Lead - 01/Oct/05 with Chris Jones

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/01

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/00

ChrisJD - 2nd - 1996 with Will

Derek Ryden - Lead O/S - 1996 with Dave the Leg

WOW! see picture on UKC. Lead 5c pitch
mattnuttall - AltLd O/S - 05/Aug/93 with Ian Vickers, Alan Holden

keefe - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/92 with Glenn Sutcliffe

Glenn Sutcliffe - AltLd - 29/Aug/92 with keefe

Two long pitches - A fantastic adventure
Nick Biven - AltLd O/S - 09/Sep/91 with Nick White

Hidden - AltLd dog - 13/Sep/90

Epic. Got this route 2nd time after previous attempt with Derek Toulalan and a retreat into the sea from the 2nd belay in a thunderstorm.
Johnny Baker - AltLd O/S - 10/Oct/89 with Dave Webster

frank ramsay - Lead - Nov/88

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1987 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Oct/85

L,2,L.
charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 1984 with Ian Milne

stp - 1983

Hidden - Lead - 1981

Hidden - 1980

Hidden - 1980

Hidden - 1980

Hidden - 1980

Hidden - AltLd - May/79

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Alex the Alex, Ben Russell, Hidden, Chris Ridgers, Mike W, JackMac, Hidden, Hidden, Liam Ingram, Motown, Ropeboy, Hidden, Alan100, Hidden, wi11, Ian Jones, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Dan Walker, MH123, Owen W-G, twright180, francois, Hidden, Hidden, Dr Caterpillar, centurion05, Dave Searle, chris j

Voting
Total votes cast 47
hard E40 of 16
E40 of 16
easy E41 of 16
hard E33 of 16
E312 of 16
easy E30 of 16
hard E20 of 16
E20 of 16
easy E20 of 16
hard 6a0 of 16
6a0 of 16
easy 6a0 of 16
hard 5c5 of 16
5c9 of 16
easy 5c2 of 16
hard 5b0 of 16
5b0 of 16
easy 5b0 of 16
3 Stars12 of 15
2 Stars3 of 15
1 Star0 of 15
0 Stars0 of 15
Bag of .....0 of 15
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Style of ascent

Lead14 of 63 (22.2%)
Followed4 of 63 (6.3%)
Alt Leads33 of 63 (52.4%)
Unknown12 of 63 (19.0%)

'Climbed'25 of 63 (39.7%)
clean O/S29 of 63 (46.0%)
clean rpt2 of 63 (3.2%)
dogged5 of 63 (7.9%)
dnf2 of 63 (3.2%)