Ffoeg's Folly* E2 5c
[Ffoeg's Folly, 3 kb]2 pitches. A great combination of pitches taking the left-hand of two parallel grooves in the centre of the walls - the visually striking first pitch being a good HVS in its own right. Start at the shallow open corner with a large 'starfish' shaped piece of graffiti on its right wall.. 1) 5a, 16m. Forcefully climb the steep corner-crack to a ledge. Bolt belay.. 2) 5c, 23m. Take the groove above the stance, which can sprout various plants in the summer, to where it steepens. Move up past a peg and then pull right to the arete. Step back left to the short blank corner, small wire, and climb this to a huge jug at its top, and a hard-to-spot ring peg on the right. Climb the short slab above to a terrace and belay. Move down and right to the large fir tree and abseil off. © ROCKFAX
2 Pitches. First easy pitch (5a) to a 2 bolt belay, followed by a more technical second pitch into the top corner (5c), good gear near the hard moves. The first pitch is HVS in its own right.
E Ward Drummond, P Morgan Mar/1967

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs.

Photo: Ffoeg's Folly © Dean177
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 185 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

I led the first pitch; Mike the second
Theeni - AltLd O/S - 12/Oct/14 with Mike Kennedy

Great route - enough gear to make it safe enough but still hard and at the upper end of E2 by my reckoning.
kenneM - AltLd O/S - 12/Oct/14 with Henry Crosby

Proper layback at the top which Jamie managed to mostly reach past! An intricate and great top pitch.
georgeevans88 - 2nd O/S - 23/Sep/14 with Jamie

Seconded the first pitch before. Very balancy climbing with pretty good protection. The jug at the top felt a bit loose to me when i grabbed it.
zcsharp - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/14 with George Evans

Led L2
LucasHarazin - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/14

jackc - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/14

tskelhon - 2nd - 21/Jun/14 with chris davis

Followed 1st pitch, led 2nd. Classic Avon Gorge weirdness, with added brambles.
skippington - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/14

first solid-at-the-grade E2, certainly felt quite exciting above micro wires!
alastairbegley - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/14 with Andrew Twemlow

P1
twem - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/14 with Alastair

Quick ascent between showers. Lead 1st pitch. Great 2nd pitch
Jim Brooke - AltLd rpt - 26/Apr/14 with Rich

Hidden - Lead rpt - 26/Apr/14

Lead both pitches. It definitely deserves 2 or three stars I'd say. The top pitch is a good solid 5c
Matt Amos - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/14 with Barney Adams

P2. Tricky and a little balancy and awkward. Good.
Ollie B - AltLd O/S - 16/Feb/14 with O.Lancett

1st pitch is an enjoyable HVS i didn't notice much polish at all. 2nd pitch starts very easily until technical moves take you a long way above your gear to a ledge and a good small wire placement which protects the crux which i found hard and Chris found easy
Mark Warnett - AltLd - 15/Sep/13

p1
evhall - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/13 with goat

i.fish2000 - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/13 with David Maddison

maddy92 - 2nd - 17/Jun/13

Proper sting in the tail above shallow micros! Tough for the grade.
Dr Toph - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/13 with Richard

I led first pitch (rpt). Seconded but with lots of beta from Neil. Enjoyable but felt a little stiffer than other E2s in the neighbourhood.
Kemics - AltLd β - 04/May/13 with Neil

nickwhimster - Lead O/S - 03/May/13 with monsteratt

Great route, great rock, good birthday celebration. I led p1 Nick did p2.
monsteratt - AltLd O/S - 03/May/13 with Nick Whimster

Yarded past the crux, as usual. Cool, balancy climbing lower down. Think I fiddled in enough small gear to make it pretty safe.
Alex Winter - Lead O/S - 01/May/13 with Will A

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 01/May/13

Failed at the crux. boo.
Latecomer - Lead dnf - 20/Apr/13

Excellent
Cheese Monkey - 2nd β - 20/Mar/13 with Neil

danJBA - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/13 with Jake Thompsett

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 19/Feb/13

Led P2 would of been cool to do it in a oner'
paultaylor - AltLd O/S - 13/Jan/13 with Andy B

I led first pitch. Paul led 2nd pitch
andygb - AltLd O/S - 13/Jan/13 with Paul Taylor

bencoope - AltLd - 09/Dec/12 with tom wheeler

I led P1, great fun. Ben led P2. Incredible corner climbing.
tomwheeler - AltLd - 09/Dec/12 with bencoope

Second pitch. Classic route and reasonably protected. 2 stars!
Stanners - AltLd O/S - 15/Nov/12 with Kyle Williamson

pheotleyr - 2nd β - 20/Oct/12 with Owen

Led both pitches. All a bit sketchy above the peg, insecure climbing on non positive holds with suspect rp pro, never too hard but mentally taxing.
Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/12 with Austrian Peter

Aaron Lines - Lead - 07/Oct/12 with frank ramsay

hvs only 1st pitch
crimpylewis - 2nd rpt - 29/Sep/12

Led first pitch
tommytuffa - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/12 with ollie b

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/12

P1 for me, glory pitch for Adam
riddle - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/12 with Adam Ryan

adam 24 - AltLd - 18/Aug/12

Awkward first pitch, and only one good section on second, but really hard at the top, where the hell are those jugs!!! I wouldnt argue if it was graded E3...
vertigo714 - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/12 with Tom Morgan

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Jul/12

Pete lead first pitch, I got up to the peg on the second pitch but couldn't for the life of me work out how to get to the arete. Down-climbed to the belay so Pete could have a crack. He got a few moves higher than me, then when he started pulling out the sky hooks and pocket etriers, I knew I wouldn't be following him!
Dave 88 - AltLd dnf - 01/Jun/12 with Salisbury Pete

First pitch was I thought harder than HVS now it's all polished up. Second pitch surprisingly overgrown/dirty - excellent climping - not sure you'd like it if you were under 6'
pedropierre - Lead O/S - May/12 with Chris Brockbnk

Mr Powly - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/12 with Tom Everett

j miller - 25/Mar/12

Dean177 - Lead O/S - 02/Mar/12 with Will Twigger

Clean lead P1, dogged once on second P2. tried to grab a hold that wasn't really there. fantastic climbing all the way through
jon_ridley - AltLd dog - 11/Feb/12 with Paul Poudevigne-Durance, Geoff Pyatt

Hidden - 2nd dog - 11/Feb/12

Linked the pitches - not too much rope drag if your first runner on P2 is quite high. First pitch very polished, but enjoyable. To reiterate the climber's club guide, make sure you have some small wires for P2! (a couple of DMM #1 or BD #4 will do - no need for anything too tiny)
Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 22/Jan/12 with Martin

First pitch only. Great climbing and really suits my style so felt soft for HVS. Stoked for the second pitch but no micro wires.
Kemics - Lead O/S - 11/Dec/11 with Dave

James_86 - AltLd dog - 10/Dec/11 with Steve, Tom

Had already done the first pitch (for last slip). Damn good route this!
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 10/Dec/11

First pitch only. Lovely
Dave89 - Lead O/S - 20/Nov/11 with Chris k

First pitch only. Fell twice.
rg1976 - TR dnf - 23/Oct/11 with squicky

pitch 0ne only
halfwaythere - 2nd dnf - 07/Oct/11

Climbed first pitch only
Gary S - TR β - 02/Oct/11 with Tom Moat

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/11

nick hawkins - TR - 03/Sep/11

Led first pitch, it hurt my fingers a lot, that first bit!
halfwaythere - Lead RP - 03/Sep/11 with nick hawkins

mark20 - 2nd O/S - 03/Sep/11

CRiddiford - 2nd - 03/Sep/11 with Mark, Jonny

(dont know what to call this as I fell on the first pitch, but thats another route, came down, counted that as 1 route, then did the ffoeg link and onsigted that... confused? I am.)
Stanley - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/11

Slipped on polished 1st pitch then did this again cleanly. However needed a very tight rope at the top of second pitch!
leigh - 2nd dog - 03/Jul/11 with Ed

It looked ok from the ground :D First pitch is very nice... although horrifically polished. Second pitch was grippy but a bit scary on crux (tiny protection). Needs wires really but managed to use a 0 nut and could just about tap one in a tiny crack.
Tom Brierley Gore - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/11 with Shijing Hu

karenhh - 2nd - 16/Jun/11 with Tom Brierley

Spacetourist - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/11 with Dan Jenkin, Rosea

Dan Jenkin - 2nd O/S - 15/Jun/11 with Rosea Day, Tom Heslam

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/11

P2
Ed Babs - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/11 with Iain Moodie

Hidden - 09/Jun/11

Lead first pitch only (HVS 5a) setup top-rope at bolt belay for others to climb, then re-climbed (on top-rope) and abseiled off from bolts. Start is VERY polished, but gets better higher up.
UnkArl - Lead O/S - 01/May/11 with Andrew, Debbie

Debs - 2nd - 01/May/11 with Karl

Led top pitch. Classic Avon!
lukehodson - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/11 with Charlotte

P2
Justin T - AltLd O/S - 26/Mar/11 with Cherry

AlexRenshaw - Lead - 06/Mar/11 with Mike Dawes

only did first pitch, superb finger jams
stvredmond - Lead - 11/Dec/10 with kelwyn

Steve lead (we did first pitch only) then hauled me up.
KDW - 2nd dog - 11/Dec/10 with Steve II

Hidden - Lead dnf - 28/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead dnf - 01/Aug/10

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/10

p1 only. hvs 5a ***! crux at the star cause of terrable polish but gets better
dan ely - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/10 with jesse

Hidden - Lead dnf - 22/Jun/10

Cornish Cream - 2nd O/S - 10/Jun/10

Dunx - Lead O/S - 29/May/10 with Joe M

only the first pitch
Alasdair88 - Lead rpt - 15/May/10 with Liz davies

first pitch only
lizzie789 - 2nd O/S - 15/May/10 with Alasdair88

sbc - 2nd - 17/Apr/10 with Dunx

Dunx - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/10 with Shell

Did the first (HVS) pitch, Loz led second.
Alasdair88 - AltLd O/S - 13/Apr/10 with Loz

slipped off at the peg, poor bridging technique. then did it properly...silly boy. far too lackadaiscal on the lead!
Dr Caterpillar - AltLd dog - 12/Apr/10 with Al

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Feb/10

P1 only. Learning to aid.
Caspar - Lead - 13/Feb/10 with Simon Reynolds

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Dec/09

Led first pitch only, good hard 5a climbing.
gripped01 - Lead O/S - Dec/09 with Alex Tomczynski, Dave Tait

only did first pitch making it around HVS
pembrokeshirecaver - 2nd β - 31/Oct/09 with Edmund Morris

led first pitch at about VS 5a. nice route and sunk 20 odd runners into it.
Ed morris - Lead O/S - 31/Oct/09 with Dickon

On-sighted the first pitch, which I understand goes at HVS
mr.alex - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/09

Just 1st pitch
Dunx - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/09 with Joe M

joeym - AltLd - 13/Sep/09 with duncan curry

Dunx - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/09 with Ru

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/09

Slipped off the last move to the jug! :-(
briar4012 - 2nd dog - 08/Jun/09 with Marti

billb - AltLd - May/09 with Rich Smith

We decided to do pitch 1 after noticing there was a mallion at the top of it and the tech grade was OK. Very nice route! P2 was very tempting. Luckily we resisted as there was a downpour soon after we abbed off.
Chris Sansum - 2nd dnf - 25/Apr/09 with Gary Lewin

Climbed the first pitch thinking it was morpheous. very nice start to it but not an E2 level climb on first pitch. Aim to go back with some micro wires and finish the job soon.
Wrighty87 - Lead dnf - 08/Apr/09

got lost.... no guidebook.
jacobjlloyd - Lead dnf - 01/Apr/09 with Dougie

jacobjlloyd - TR rpt - 01/Apr/09 with Dougie

Lead both pitches, very nice climbing.
scorpia97 - Lead O/S - 22/Feb/09 with Caspian

Caspar - 2nd - 22/Feb/09 with scorpia97

led p1
Dr Caterpillar - AltLd O/S - 11/Feb/09 with Howard

mike kann - Lead O/S - 2009

1st pitch only HVS 5A
jh5638 - Lead O/S - 22/Nov/08 with Dave Radley

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 15/Aug/08

Led 2nd Pitch
Lev - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/08 with Emma Ross

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/08

tom.e - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/08 with Charlie Everett

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/May/08

Lead the starting HVS corner.
Paz - 2nd rpt - 30/May/08 with WG

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 19/May/08 with jacquie robinson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/May/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Mar/08

chris sm - 2nd rpt - 22/Mar/08 with Ashley Lewis

Paz - 2nd rpt - 01/Feb/08 with HA

Hidden - Lead rpt - 2008

First E2 onsight
Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 17/Nov/07 with douglas

Paz - Lead rpt - 19/Oct/07 with TS2

1st pitch only.
CarolineH - 2nd - 19/Sep/07 with Mark

excellent lead by j
tonanf - 2nd O/S - 12/Jul/07 with james c

phsharpy - Lead rpt - 06/Jun/07 with Pete Phillips

Circus - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/07 with Gavin Cytlau

Paz - AltLd rpt - 10/Mar/07 with CC

richiebongo - Lead O/S - 2007 with Tanya Scully

Hidden - Lead rpt - 12/Dec/06

repeated first pitch to remove partner's gear as did not finish. Smooth and quick.
Tamlyn - Lead rpt - 06/May/06

Did 1st pitch clean (5a), then brought up seconds and abbed off bolts for belay
Tamlyn - Lead dnf - 27/Apr/06

Bern - 2006

tonanf - AltLd - 2006

Seconded the first pitch then abbed off.
Richard Hall - 2nd - 2006 with Paul Mac

1st pitch only.
Bux - Lead rpt - Jun/05 with Rupert Bassadone

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/05

KRB - Lead O/S - 31/Oct/04 with Chris & Martin

simon kimber - Lead O/S - Apr/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/03

Met RL at the crag that day in a group of 3 and asked him if he fancied a route. Had lead P1 before 01/2003
Paz - Lead O/S - Jun/03 with RL

Digger - 2nd dog - 30/Mar/03 with James Latham

Hidden - Lead - Feb/03

DavidR - AltLd O/S - 28/Sep/02 with Jemma Wadham

Jim Brooke - 2nd rpt - 26/Apr/02 with James Latham

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - Apr/02

AndySL - Lead rpt - 03/Mar/02 with Mark

John Southworth - Lead RP - 31/Jul/01

Billg - Lead O/S - 14/Feb/01 with Megan Beaumont

gimmer - 2001

Hidden - Lead dog - 2001

Hidden - Lead rpt - 24/Apr/00

Hidden - 2000

Hidden - 2000

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

Mickdenali - AltLd dog - 2000 with Bob Macleod

Gudge - AltLd O/S - 2000 with BUMC

Jim Brooke - Lead β - 21/Nov/99

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 04/Apr/99

Jim Brooke - 2nd β - 05/Feb/97 with Adrian Fletcher

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Mar/96

chris sm - Lead rpt - 28/Feb/96 with Andy Gill

lowersharpnose - Lead - 01/Jan/95

GAtkins - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/94 with Neil

chris sm - 2nd β - 09/Jun/94 with Andy Gill

P1 Only (HVS) First HVS
chris sm - Lead dnf - 12/Feb/94 with Martin Sime

Roget - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/92 with jon

Hidden - Lead - 1991

Hidden - 1990

bullybones - Lead - 1987

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Nov/85

John Marsland - Lead - 01/Sep/85 with Dave Mould

Hidden - Solo rpt - Sep/84

andy gittins - 1983

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/82

Hidden - 1981

Paul Clarke - Lead - 1981 with Various

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Ollie B, iceaxejuggler, andy dunn, RedFox, Tamlyn

Voting
Total votes cast 110
hard E30 of 35
E30 of 35
easy E32 of 35
hard E28 of 35
E225 of 35
easy E20 of 35
hard E10 of 35
E10 of 35
easy E10 of 35
hard 6a0 of 35
6a0 of 35
easy 6a0 of 35
hard 5c2 of 35
5c32 of 35
easy 5c1 of 35
hard 5b0 of 35
5b0 of 35
easy 5b0 of 35
3 Stars8 of 40
2 Stars26 of 40
1 Star6 of 40
0 Stars0 of 40
Bag of .....0 of 40
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Style of ascent

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dogged
dnf