2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A great combination of pitches taking the left-hand of two parallel grooves in the centre of the walls - the visually striking first pitch being a good HVS in its own right. Start at the shallow open corner with a large 'starfish' shaped piece of graffiti on its right wall.
1) 5a, 16m. Forcefully climb the steep corner-crack to a ledge. Bolt belay.
2) 5c, 23m. Take the groove above the stance, which can sprout various plants in the summer, to where it steepens. Move up past a peg and then pull right to the arete. Step back left to the short blank corner, small wire, and climb this to a huge jug at its top, and a hard-to-spot ring peg on the right. Climb the short slab above to a terrace and belay. Move down and right to the large fir tree and abseil off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
2 Pitches.
First easy pitch (5a) to a 2 bolt belay, followed by a more technical second pitch into the top corner (5c), good gear near the hard moves.

The first pitch is HVS in its own right.

E Ward Drummond, P Morgan Mar/1967

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, CUMC Ticklist.

Lil_Pete 22/Nov AltLd O/S

Fun route with me having having the interesting second pitch. nearly lost it at one point ..!

with Caleb
Kemics 22/Nov AltLd rpt

Went left up the steep wall not right at the peg. Big moves and still definitely 5c but not sure it's the right way. Cool alternative perhaps. (I lead p1)

with Pete
Hidden 21/Nov Lead O/S
Pohil 26/Oct Lead O/S
with SP
laurashaw 25/Oct Lead RP

First extreme lead! Really psyched, great route with a mixture of a pumpy first pitch and a technical second pitch. Quite bold in the upper section but a rewarding final jug

thom_jenkinson 25/Oct 2nd
laurashaw 26/Sep AltLd

Lead the first pitch but dogged, put far too much emphasis on placing gear and getting pumped! Really enjoyed the second pitch, much more technical and pleased to get it clean

with Sam Hooper, Thom Jenkinson
thom_jenkinson 26/Sep Lead rpt

Very technical climbing - all in the feet

with Sam Hooper, Laura Shaw
tobydunford 07/Jul AltLd O/S
with Harry Martin
Luxulyan 10/Jun AltLd O/S
with Tom Murrell
thom_jenkinson 09/Jun Lead G/U

Pretty ballsy - great fun and nicely technical crux. Biggest jug imaginable to finish on!

with Martin Andersson, Ben Leslie
DoMakeSayThink 09/Jun 2nd RP

Jenks led both pitches. I attempted the first pitch but gave up after a few tries and a rope burn - will have to get back on it some point as feels doable.

m_andersson 09/Jun 2nd O/S

Thom lead both pitches. Really good climb but quite scary at parts.

cwildblood 21/May Lead O/S
Hugobristol 12/May Lead O/S

Followed p1, led p2. Climbing required balance but was never too strenuous. Small wires protect it well.

with Dave
Dino Dave 12/May AltLd O/S
Katsmiff 10/May AltLd O/S

I lead the 1st pitch HVS level which was very pleasant climbing. Martin lead the 2nd pitch which was a tad bold in places but okay.

Martin Bagshaw 10/May Lead O/S
felixizzy 18/Apr 2nd O/S
with misha
Misha 18/Apr Lead O/S

In one, nicely varied pitch. Getting off the ground is nails at 5a! Take a good selection of micros, you'll need them!

with Felix
Theeni 12/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

I led the first pitch; Mike the second

with Mike Kennedy
kenneM 12/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

Great route - enough gear to make it safe enough but still hard and at the upper end of E2 by my reckoning.

with Henry Crosby
georgeevans88 23/Sep/14 2nd O/S

Proper layback at the top which Jamie managed to mostly reach past! An intricate and great top pitch.

with Jamie
zcsharp 23/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Seconded the first pitch before. Very balancy climbing with pretty good protection. The jug at the top felt a bit loose to me when i grabbed it.

Ranaz ?/Aug/14 AltLd rpt
LucasHarazin 26/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Led L2

jackc 12/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
tskelhon 21/Jun/14 2nd
with chris davis
skippington 08/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Followed 1st pitch, led 2nd. Classic Avon Gorge weirdness, with added brambles.

alastairbegley 05/Jun/14 Lead O/S

first solid-at-the-grade E2, certainly felt quite exciting above micro wires!

twem 05/Jun/14 AltLd O/S


Jim Brooke 26/Apr/14 AltLd rpt

Quick ascent between showers. Lead 1st pitch. Great 2nd pitch

with Rich
Hidden 26/Apr/14 Lead rpt
Matt Amos 14/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Lead both pitches. It definitely deserves 2 or three stars I'd say. The top pitch is a good solid 5c

with Barney Adams
Ollie B 16/Feb/14 AltLd O/S

P2. Tricky and a little balancy and awkward. Good.

with O.Lancett
Mark Warnett 15/Sep/13 AltLd

1st pitch is an enjoyable HVS i didn't notice much polish at all. 2nd pitch starts very easily until technical moves take you a long way above your gear to a ledge and a good small wire placement which protects the crux which i found hard and Chris found easy

Hidden 22/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
i.fish2000 17/Jun/13 Lead O/S
maddy92 17/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Dr Toph 10/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Proper sting in the tail above shallow micros! Tough for the grade.

with Richard
Kemics 04/May/13 AltLd β

I led first pitch (rpt). Seconded but with lots of beta from Neil. Enjoyable but felt a little stiffer than other E2s in the neighbourhood.

with Neil
nickwhimster 03/May/13 Lead O/S
monsteratt 03/May/13 AltLd O/S

Great route, great rock, good birthday celebration. I led p1 Nick did p2.

with Nick Whimster
Alex Winter 01/May/13 Lead O/S

Yarded past the crux, as usual. Cool, balancy climbing lower down. Think I fiddled in enough small gear to make it pretty safe.

with Will A
Hidden 01/May/13 2nd rpt
Latecomer 20/Apr/13 Lead dnf

Failed at the crux. boo.

Cheese Monkey 20/Mar/13 2nd β


with Neil
danJBA 20/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
with Jake Thompsett
Hidden 19/Feb/13 2nd rpt
paultaylor 13/Jan/13 AltLd O/S

Led P2 would of been cool to do it in a oner'

with Andy B
andygb 13/Jan/13 AltLd O/S

I led first pitch. Paul led 2nd pitch

with Paul Taylor
bencoope 09/Dec/12 AltLd
tomwheeler 09/Dec/12 AltLd

I led P1, great fun. Ben led P2. Incredible corner climbing.

Stanners 15/Nov/12 AltLd O/S

Second pitch. Classic route and reasonably protected. 2 stars!

pheotleyr 20/Oct/12 2nd β
with Owen
Owen W-G 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Led both pitches. All a bit sketchy above the peg, insecure climbing on non positive holds with suspect rp pro, never too hard but mentally taxing.

Aaron Lines 07/Oct/12 Lead
crimpylewis 29/Sep/12 2nd rpt

hvs only 1st pitch

tommytuffa 04/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Led first pitch

with ollie b
Hidden 01/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
riddle 18/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

P1 for me, glory pitch for Adam

adam 24 18/Aug/12 AltLd
Hidden 11/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Jul/12 2nd
Dave 88 01/Jun/12 AltLd dnf

Pete lead first pitch, I got up to the peg on the second pitch but couldn't for the life of me work out how to get to the arete. Down-climbed to the belay so Pete could have a crack. He got a few moves higher than me, then when he started pulling out the sky hooks and pocket etriers, I knew I wouldn't be following him!

with Salisbury Pete
pedropierre ?/May/12 Lead O/S

First pitch was I thought harder than HVS now it's all polished up. Second pitch surprisingly overgrown/dirty - excellent climping - not sure you'd like it if you were under 6'

with Chris Brockbnk
Mr Powly 20/Apr/12 Lead O/S
j miller 25/Mar/12 -
Dean177 02/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Will Twigger
jon_ridley 11/Feb/12 AltLd dog

Clean lead P1, dogged once on second P2. tried to grab a hold that wasn't really there. fantastic climbing all the way through

Hidden 11/Feb/12 2nd dog
Nick Russell 22/Jan/12 Lead O/S

Linked the pitches - not too much rope drag if your first runner on P2 is quite high. First pitch very polished, but enjoyable. To reiterate the climber's club guide, make sure you have some small wires for P2! (a couple of DMM #1 or BD #4 will do - no need for anything too tiny)

with Martin
Kemics 11/Dec/11 Lead O/S

First pitch only. Great climbing and really suits my style so felt soft for HVS. Stoked for the second pitch but no micro wires.

with Dave
James_86 10/Dec/11 AltLd dog
with Steve, Tom
thomasadixon 10/Dec/11 Lead O/S

Had already done the first pitch (for last slip). Damn good route this!

Dave89 20/Nov/11 Lead O/S

First pitch only. Lovely

with Chris k
rg1976 23/Oct/11 TR dnf

First pitch only. Fell twice.

with squicky
halfwaythere 07/Oct/11 2nd dnf

pitch 0ne only

Gary S 02/Oct/11 TR β

Climbed first pitch only

with Tom Moat
Hidden 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
nick hawkins 03/Sep/11 TR
halfwaythere 03/Sep/11 Lead RP

Led first pitch, it hurt my fingers a lot, that first bit!

mark20 03/Sep/11 2nd O/S
CRiddiford 03/Sep/11 2nd
with Mark, Jonny
Stanley 22/Aug/11 Lead O/S

(dont know what to call this as I fell on the first pitch, but thats another route, came down, counted that as 1 route, then did the ffoeg link and onsigted that... confused? I am.)

leigh 03/Jul/11 2nd dog

Slipped on polished 1st pitch then did this again cleanly. However needed a very tight rope at the top of second pitch!

with Ed
Tom Brierley Gore 16/Jun/11 Lead O/S

It looked ok from the ground :D First pitch is very nice... although horrifically polished. Second pitch was grippy but a bit scary on crux (tiny protection). Needs wires really but managed to use a 0 nut and could just about tap one in a tiny crack.

karenhh 16/Jun/11 2nd
Spacetourist 15/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Dan Jenkin, Rosea
Dan Jenkin 15/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Rosea Day, Tom Heslam
Hidden 10/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Ed Babs 09/Jun/11 AltLd O/S


Hidden 09/Jun/11 -
UnkArl 01/May/11 Lead O/S

Lead first pitch only (HVS 5a) setup top-rope at bolt belay for others to climb, then re-climbed (on top-rope) and abseiled off from bolts. Start is VERY polished, but gets better higher up.

with Andrew, Debbie
Debs 01/May/11 2nd
with Karl
lukehodson 18/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Led top pitch. Classic Avon!

Justin T 26/Mar/11 AltLd O/S


with Cherry
AlexRenshaw 06/Mar/11 Lead
stvredmond 11/Dec/10 Lead

only did first pitch, superb finger jams

with kelwyn
Hidden 11/Dec/10 2nd dog
Hidden 28/Aug/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 01/Aug/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 22/Jul/10 2nd
Hidden 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S
dan ely 24/Jun/10 Lead O/S

p1 only. hvs 5a ***! crux at the star cause of terrable polish but gets better

with jesse
Hidden 22/Jun/10 Lead dnf
Cornish Cream 10/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Dunx 29/May/10 Lead O/S
with Joe M
Alasdair88 15/May/10 Lead rpt

only the first pitch

lizzie789 15/May/10 2nd O/S

first pitch only

sbc 17/Apr/10 2nd
with Dunx
Dunx 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Shell
Alasdair88 13/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

Did the first (HVS) pitch, Loz led second.

with Loz
Dr Caterpillar 12/Apr/10 AltLd dog

slipped off at the peg, poor bridging technique. then did it properly...silly boy. far too lackadaiscal on the lead!

with Al
Hidden 21/Feb/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Feb/10 Lead
Hidden 16/Dec/09 Lead O/S
gripped01 ?/Dec/09 Lead O/S

Led first pitch only, good hard 5a climbing.

with Alex Tomczynski, Dave Tait
pembrokeshirecaver 31/Oct/09 2nd β

only did first pitch making it around HVS

Ed morris 31/Oct/09 Lead O/S

led first pitch at about VS 5a. nice route and sunk 20 odd runners into it.

with Dickon
mr.alex 25/Oct/09 Lead O/S

On-sighted the first pitch, which I understand goes at HVS

Dunx 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Just 1st pitch

with Joe M
joeym 13/Sep/09 AltLd
Dunx 12/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
with Ru
Marti999 08/Jun/09 Lead O/S
briar4012 08/Jun/09 2nd dog

Slipped off the last move to the jug! :-(

with Marti
billb ?/May/09 AltLd
Chris Sansum 25/Apr/09 2nd dnf

We decided to do pitch 1 after noticing there was a mallion at the top of it and the tech grade was OK. Very nice route! P2 was very tempting. Luckily we resisted as there was a downpour soon after we abbed off.

with Gary Lewin
Wrighty87 08/Apr/09 Lead dnf

Climbed the first pitch thinking it was morpheous. very nice start to it but not an E2 level climb on first pitch. Aim to go back with some micro wires and finish the job soon.

jacobjlloyd 01/Apr/09 Lead dnf

got lost.... no guidebook.

with Dougie
jacobjlloyd 01/Apr/09 TR rpt
with Dougie
dswansonlow 01/Apr/09 2nd O/S
scorpia97 22/Feb/09 Lead O/S

Lead both pitches, very nice climbing.

with Caspian
Hidden 22/Feb/09 2nd
Dr Caterpillar 11/Feb/09 AltLd O/S

led p1

with Howard
beardy mike ??/2009 Lead O/S
jh5638 22/Nov/08 Lead O/S

1st pitch only HVS 5A

Hidden 15/Aug/08 2nd O/S
Lev 15/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd Pitch

Hidden 01/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/08 Lead O/S
tom.e 25/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Charlie Everett
Hidden 30/May/08 Lead O/S
Paz 30/May/08 2nd rpt

Lead the starting HVS corner.

with WG
dan gibson 19/May/08 Lead O/S
with jacquie robinson
Hidden 12/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Mar/08 AltLd O/S
chris sm 22/Mar/08 2nd rpt
Paz 01/Feb/08 2nd rpt
with HA
Hidden ??/2008 Lead rpt
Bristoldave 17/Nov/07 Lead O/S

First E2 onsight

with douglas
Paz 19/Oct/07 Lead rpt
with TS2
CarolineH 19/Sep/07 2nd

1st pitch only.

with Mark
tonanf 12/Jul/07 2nd O/S

excellent lead by j

with james c
phsharpy 06/Jun/07 Lead rpt
with Pete Phillips
Circus 26/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Gavin Cytlau
Paz 10/Mar/07 AltLd rpt
with CC
richiebongo ??/2007 Lead O/S
with Tanya Scully
Hidden 12/Dec/06 Lead rpt
Tamlyn 06/May/06 Lead rpt

repeated first pitch to remove partner's gear as did not finish. Smooth and quick.

Tamlyn 27/Apr/06 Lead dnf

Did 1st pitch clean (5a), then brought up seconds and abbed off bolts for belay

Bern ??/2006 -
tonanf ??/2006 AltLd
Richard Hall ??/2006 2nd

Seconded the first pitch then abbed off.

with Paul Mac
Bux ?/Jun/05 Lead rpt

1st pitch only.

with Rupert Bassadone
Hidden 29/Apr/05 Lead O/S
KRB 31/Oct/04 Lead O/S
with Chris & Martin
simon kimber ?/Apr/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Paz ?/Jun/03 Lead O/S

Met RL at the crag that day in a group of 3 and asked him if he fancied a route. Had lead P1 before 01/2003

with RL
Digger 30/Mar/03 2nd dog
with James Latham
Hidden ?/Feb/03 Lead
DavidR 28/Sep/02 AltLd O/S
with Jemma Wadham
Jim Brooke 26/Apr/02 2nd rpt
with James Latham
pezzerrr ?/Apr/02 Lead O/S
AndySL 03/Mar/02 Lead rpt
with Mark
Hidden 09/Sep/01 AltLd O/S
John Southworth 31/Jul/01 Lead RP
Billg 14/Feb/01 Lead O/S
with Megan Beaumont
gimmer ??/2001 -
Hidden ??/2001 Lead dog
Hidden 24/Apr/00 Lead rpt
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Mickdenali ??/2000 AltLd dog
with Bob Macleod
Gudge ??/2000 AltLd O/S
with BUMC
Jim Brooke 21/Nov/99 Lead β
Hidden 04/Apr/99 2nd rpt
Jim Brooke 05/Feb/97 2nd β
with Adrian Fletcher
Hidden 30/Mar/96 2nd
chris sm 28/Feb/96 Lead rpt
with Andy Gill
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/95 Lead
GAtkins 22/Jun/94 Lead O/S
with Neil
chris sm 09/Jun/94 2nd β
with Andy Gill
chris sm 12/Feb/94 Lead dnf

P1 Only (HVS) First HVS

with Martin Sime
Roget 31/Aug/92 Lead O/S
with jon
Hidden ??/1991 Lead
Hidden ??/1990 -
bullybones ??/1987 Lead
Hidden 03/Nov/85 AltLd
John Marsland 01/Sep/85 Lead
with Dave Mould
Hidden ?/Sep/84 Solo rpt
andy gittins ??/1983 -
Hidden ?/Jul/82 AltLd O/S
Steve Bell ??/1981 -
Hidden ??/1981 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Ollie B, iceaxejuggler, andy dunn, RedFox, Tamlyn
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 41
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 41
Votes cast 46
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set