Rockfax Description
II, 350m, 3 - 4 hours. The ambience on this route is incredible, with hanging seracs nearby (and occasionally overhead) throughout. Potential serac fall is a real danger at times so check on conditions before you go and get a pre-dawn start.
1) Climb the 50 degree snow slope then avoid the island of rock by passing it to the left via a step which kicks up to 65 degrees.
2) Stay on the snow slope, between the rocky left-hand edge of the Triangle, and the seracs, choosing the line least exposed to potential serac fall.
3) Level with the top of the Contamine-Grisolle there is often a steepening, formed between the final serac and the rock of the Triangle. It rarely exceeds 70 degrees but is the crux of the route when at its steepest. Continue easily up the snow slope to reach the top of the Triangle.
Descent - Either abseil the Chéré Couloir (often busy) or continue from the top of the Triangle and onto the summit of Mont Blanc du Tacul via the exposed snow slope. From here, descend via Mont Blanc du Tacul North Face (some serac danger). In good conditions it is possible to skip the summit by cutting down to join the north face 100m above the top of the Triangle. However, this is exposed to avalanche and crevasse danger so, if in doubt, carry on to the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Graded AD- in the Alpine Club guide but IV,2 in the Snow, ice, and mixed guide (around D/D+ equivalent). Crux is a (slightly loose) 65 degree section beneath the serac at 1/3 height (which may possibly be harder than when originally graded AD-) and the Snow, ice, and mixed grade is probably closer to the mark.

P Labrume, J Martin and M Negri, A Contamine 05/Aug/1962

davkeo 16/Sep/14 Solo O/S

Last route of an amazing trip. Good neve and ice in parts but so not so good snow on less steep bits. Very enjoyable. recent serac collapse made it feel less risky.

Hidden 07/Sep/14 Solo
QuentinSu ?/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Big Lee 25/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

A good route. Not much snow on the lower 1/3 of the climb but good ice throughout. Loose blocks of ice beneath the serac at 1/3 height. Climbed to the top of the triangle then ab'ed down the opposite (right) side.

mikeyjbs 25/Mar/12 AltLd
darcan ??/2012 AltLd
with chris bailey
GF ??/2010 -
breithorn4164 16/Jan/09 AltLd O/S
with Jackson
stokesrees 06/Feb/99 Lead
with Jen Olson
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