UKC

250m, 8 pitches. 5+ obligatory. The classic route up the face. Fully equipped with parabolts.

30m 3, 50m 4+, 35m 5+, 35m 5+, 25m 6a, 30m 6c or A0/5+, 20m 6c+ or A0/5, 25m 6a or A0/4+.

First pitch scambles over the boss at the bottom. Second pitch (4+) starts from belay bolts, passes two bolts, then has a long run out middle section before a final bolt and the belay. Thereafter, just follow the bolts. Take plenty of quickdraws (approx. 24 bolts on 6c pitch).

Ticklists

Montserrat Cara Norte Challenge , 100 Spanish multi-pitch classics

Feedback

User Date Notes
laurence8253 11 Nov, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Agreed, the last 3 pitches are 7B/ 7C, however as the bolts were so close together I happily dogged my way up on the bolts. The Rap down I would recommend is only down in day light, and ideally with someone who has done it before! I had to swing across once I had rapped down a few times to make contact with the ground.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Agreed, the last 3 pitches are 7B/ 7C, however as the bolts were so close together I happily dogged my way up on the bolts. The Rap down I would recommend is only down in day light, and ideally with someone who has done it before! I had to swing across once I had rapped down a few times to make contact with the ground.
seanbastard 6 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: We let a pair pass us at halfway as our group was 3 and they were 2 and seemed fast until that point. They were not. Proceeded to sit on every bolt and dog their way up the entire thing... leaving us 3 slowly getting hypothermia from sitting around on hanging belays. Kept going tho init. Ended up topping out into a storm, fog and rain as night fell. Didnt know where the abseil was so, we just picked a direction and went with it. Head torch on, lost in black space, swinging around in pouring rain, could see about 5m i reckon.. Wind was so heavy it flipped my brother upside down.. We found one anchor and quickly realised it wasn't "the anchor" ... screw it. Abseiled again. Then we found a tree and bailed off of that, using thee highly scientific method of throwing stones into the abyss & listening for them hitting the ground to try and get an idea of where the ground was... We never heard anything, bailed off the tree anyway and found ourselves on a ridge... So we then slid down the 4+ scramble in darkness like a slide and got down to the car where we’d stashed some pickled onion monster munch and lucozade. First beer back home felt like a spiritual experience. 2nd time i've been on this route, 2nd time i've nearly died. Good stuff. Maybe not again. Also - i'm used to montserrat climbing, i climb there regularly, i know it can be sandbagged, but whoever gives that pitch 6c is smoking crack out of a lightbulb in a tescos carpark, there are easier 7b+'s round the corner
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: We let a pair pass us at halfway as our group was 3 and they were 2 and seemed fast until that point. They were not. Proceeded to sit on every bolt and dog their way up the entire thing... leaving us 3 slowly getting hypothermia from sitting around on hanging belays. Kept going tho init. Ended up topping out into a storm, fog and rain as night fell. Didnt know where the abseil was so, we just picked a direction and went with it. Head torch on, lost in black space, swinging around in pouring rain, could see about 5m i reckon.. Wind was so heavy it flipped my brother upside down.. We found one anchor and quickly realised it wasn't "the anchor" ... screw it. Abseiled again. Then we found a tree and bailed off of that, using thee highly scientific method of throwing stones into the abyss & listening for them hitting the ground to try and get an idea of where the ground was... We never heard anything, bailed off the tree anyway and found ourselves on a ridge... So we then slid down the 4+ scramble in darkness like a slide and got down to the car where we’d stashed some pickled onion monster munch and lucozade. First beer back home felt like a spiritual experience. 2nd time i've been on this route, 2nd time i've nearly died. Good stuff. Maybe not again. Also - i'm used to montserrat climbing, i climb there regularly, i know it can be sandbagged, but whoever gives that pitch 6c is smoking crack out of a lightbulb in a tescos carpark, there are easier 7b+'s round the corner

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Alta mar

Grade: 6c+ ***
(El Vermell del Xincarro)

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