Padansac** E2 5c
[Padansac, Sea Walls, Avon Gorge, 2 kb]

Rockfax Description
A popular little climb that follows the tapering open groove right of the steep white-stained wall. Start below the open groove.
Climb the technical groove, past 2 pegs, to a ledge and big flake. Finish up easier ground to a belay at the large fir tree. Abseil off. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
As a result of recent rock fall (2008) the route is now to be considered corectly graded at E2 (it was previously a serious soft touch)
The lower peg is long gone, just the second remains, high in the groove.

M Jeffs, D Mortimer 1968

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs.

Photo: Padansac, Sea Walls, Avon Gorge © Will Goldsmith
View all 5 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 187 logbooks, and on 8 wishlists.

Wendy Watthews - 2nd O/S - 19/Sep/15 with Luke, joe c, cuc, arandall

Awesome climb, better gear than it looks from the floor. Balanced and techy climbing sustained throughout the groove. Belayed the whole crew up afterwards
JoeCoxson - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/15 with Luke Gorman, omaskrey, Wendy Matthews, Alex Randall

omaskrey - 2nd O/S - 19/Sep/15 with Joe Coxson

arandall - 2nd O/S - 19/Sep/15 with Joe Coxson

First E2!
Jack Porteous - Lead dog - 10/Jul/15 with Kimmers

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/15 with Harry Martin

nickmoulden - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/15 with zoe bidula

Hidden - Lead G/U - 21/Jun/15

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Jun/15

Great to repeat this after such a long time, has that scary Avon Gorge feel but is surprisingly safe, well protected and has enjoyable if short climbing. As previous climber posted there is a slightly loose - very small block at bottom of grove, however IMO this is not an issue as it is well jammed in place and can actually be used for gear.
Tom Brierley Gore - Lead rpt - 11/Jun/15 with Maria Brierley

Came off after the peg - not a soft E2 anymore! There is a loose block towards the bottom of the grove. Good enough route though!
kenneM - Lead dog - 25/May/15

jammy4536 - 2nd β - 13/May/15 with Hugo Aiken

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/May/15

Hidden - Lead dnf - 08/Feb/15

steve_gibbs - 2nd O/S - 17/Sep/14 with Jamie Roberts

zcsharp - Lead rpt - 17/Sep/14 with Steve Gibbs

Great little route
brices - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/14 with Llinos

spidey - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/14 with luke clarke

LucasHarazin - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/14

jackc - Lead RP - 12/Jul/14

Some extremely questionable gear made me think twice about going for the crux. Nice route that left me feeling broken after getting back on the ground
Tom Harper - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/14

Quite some tricky bits.
pheotleyr - Lead RP - 01/Jul/14 with Peter Milner

Good route. Took me a while to work out/commit the crux. Great to be climbing in the gorge in such nice weather!
monsteratt - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/14 with Nick Whimster

put foot on peg
nickwhimster - 2nd - 25/Jun/14 with monsteratt

skippington - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/14

Jack_F - Lead O/S - 15/May/14 with Remus

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/May/14

Cheese Monkey - 2nd O/S - 26/Mar/14 with Helen

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/14

Neil - Lead O/S - 2014

1st pitch
Rosea Day - Lead β - 24/Nov/13 with Jerome Gill

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/Oct/13

a nightime epic which i am surprised to find i led 18 years ago!
shoulders - 2nd rpt - 04/Sep/13 with rich smith

Good climb. Did all moves, but had a rest.
pheotleyr - TR dog - 06/Aug/13 with Mirco Traxion

Nice little number. Fell into a thorn bush whilst lowering Jake off.
Alex Winter - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/13 with J. Iles-Smith

i.fish2000 - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/13 with David Maddison

maddy92 - 2nd O/S - 23/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/13

Nice technical moves up the groove, too bad it eases off so much after...
Dr Toph - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/13 with Richard

TDSvejstrup - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/13 with jamie roberts

zcsharp - 2nd - 05/Jun/13 with Danish

Hidden - 2nd β - 19/May/13

Pete Rigby - Lead - 17/May/13 with Kelli Roberts, Jim Tan

kelliroberts3 - 2nd - 17/May/13 with Jim Tan, Peter Rigby

Kemics - 2nd rpt - 04/May/13 with Neil

Anthony Dixon - 23/Apr/13

haydng - 2nd O/S - 23/Apr/13 with Tony

Good resting points below the hard moves. Climbs nicely. 5c for sure
Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13

fell once on the crux using the wrong hold. great great route
hutchay - AltLd dog - 09/Apr/13 with Tom

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Apr/13

Aaron Lines - Lead rpt - 08/Apr/13 with Dan

markpollak - 2013

After Mike, on his gear (it's mostly placed from rests anyway, bar the peg) with a piece or two of my own too. Took ages to work out the sequences, techy.
AJM - Lead β - 15/Nov/12 with Mike Goldthorp

Great route, really appealing line and yields some quality technical climbing, solid spaced gear, peg looked pretty good to me.
Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 15/Nov/12 with Andy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/12

James S - 2nd O/S - 15/Sep/12 with caleb

Had to get bit tactical, so a few down climbs after placing the first set of small wires. Fiddled in a fairly solid brassie just below the peg (and second one for ornamental purposes) between the two and the peg, something would have held. Went for it, one slightly desperate move slapping up the arÍte. Very balancey/techy climbing. Seemed steady for e2/5c
Kemics - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/12 with James S

AlexD - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/12 with Ed

Worked it but couldn't figure out a move 3m before the peg.
Dave Ing - TR dnf - 11/Sep/12

bit polished and first of the two pegs is broken off, making the crux a bit bolder
msoldn - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/12 with Sam (tree surgent)

riddle - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/12 with Adam Ryan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/12

Jon Didymus - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/12 with Josh

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Aug/12

Dan Lane - 2nd O/S - 03/Aug/12 with Andy Turner

cymjt - Aug/12

markfromstoke - 2nd - 26/Jul/12 with Ian

Tested the peg on the OS attempt, it held.
ian d f - Lead RP - 26/Jul/12 with Mark

Hidden - 2nd β - 22/Jul/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/12

Hard, insecure and scary! Brillant :) I thought this was harder than New Horizons 2??
SGD - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/12 with phil wilkinson, Jonny WMC

tom.e - Lead rpt - 15/Apr/12 with Charlie Everett

Climbed rubbish
Pete Rigby - Lead dnf - 27/Mar/12 with Kelli Roberts

Aaron Lines - Lead - 26/Feb/12 with frank ramsay

Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 15/Jan/12 with Mike Hawkins

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/11

Clay C - 2nd dog - 16/Oct/11 with Will A

Had to use technique so it felt hard
mark20 - 2nd O/S - 03/Sep/11

on jonny's gear
CRiddiford - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/11 with Mark, Jonny

BeccaSnowden - 2nd O/S - 25/Aug/11 with Tom

Safe, if a bit worrying. Take small micros.
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/11 with Becca

This route had been on my mind for over a week as one I really wanted to do. Thought about it quite a bit really and when I got a call from Rob after a few days of sitting on my arse doing diddle squat I couldn't resist the opportunity to get on it. In a nutshell the route exceeded its reputation by a mile. Its an awesome route, really worth doing! 2 good wires protect the section leading up to the solitary peg which to be honest aint all that great. No desperately hard moves but several balancey technical 5b/c bits. (And for future reference): This is the third route I've done in my new anasazi verdes and its really a testament to how good they really are. Iwas able to stand on polished nubbin's and my feet still stayed- great shoes!
Quarryboy - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/11 with Rob Stanfield

Stanners - 2nd O/S - 12/Aug/11 with Jack Bradbrook

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/11

jchenoweth - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/11 with Marc

My 2nd E2... this one felt considerably harder and more technical, enjoyable climb.
Tom Brierley Gore - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/11 with Shijing Hu

karenhh - 2nd - 11/Jun/11 with Tom Brierley

Good route.
Jon_Warner - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/11 with Tim

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/11

scorpia97 - 2nd O/S - 08/Jun/11 with Ross Davidson

Spacetourist - Lead O/S - 25/May/11 with Rosea

Awesome route, tricky central section
rapidrich - TR O/S - 29/Apr/11 with Simon

Justin T - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/11 with Cherry

AlexRenshaw - Lead - 06/Mar/11 with Thomas Renshaw

Rosea Day - 2nd O/S - Mar/11 with Thomas Heslam

Hidden - TR β - 31/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/Mar/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - Mar/10

Hidden - 2010

Phil PBC - 2010

richiebongo - Lead O/S - 2010 with Nick Smith

just one more - Lead - 28/Jul/09 with Max B

Hidden - Lead RP - 23/Jul/09

felt much harder this time!
lukehodson - 2nd rpt - 02/May/09 with Sam Howell

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 22/Apr/09

first E2 onsight! good route, felt pretty hard
lukehodson - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/09 with Alan Sage

Dr Caterpillar - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/09 with Alex Malins

Hidden - Lead β - 19/Mar/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Nov/08

Paz - 2nd rpt - 19/Nov/08 with AM2

Not as hard as i thought it would be and the gear is pretty good
Al Franks - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/08 with Harry Allan

Alasdair88 - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/08 with Harry Allen

Lev - Lead rpt - 03/Aug/08 with Emma Ross

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Aug/08

Proper E2 now. A good wire's available a bit lower than the old block, beneath the gaston on the right in the groove, below the obvious worn slot (which I couldn't get to take anything much).
Paz - Lead rpt - 18/Jul/08 with WG

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/08

Paz - 2nd rpt - 15/Apr/08 with WG

chiverstom - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/08 with Pete Sharpe

Prev seconded
Bristoldave - Lead rpt - 07/Nov/07 with douglas

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/May/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/06

Paz - 2nd rpt - 23/Sep/06 with AB

nice and obvious
tonanf - Lead - Sep/06 with burt

phsharpy - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/06 with Adrian

chris sm - 2nd β - 09/May/06 with Ben Sutton

cornishben - Lead O/S - May/06 with Chris Sims

tom.e - 2nd rpt - 25/Apr/06 with Charlie Everett

cornishben - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/06 with Chris Sims

Bern - 2006

Jo McCready - 2006

John Lisle - 2006

Marcus - 2006

Hidden - 2006

RedFox - 2nd O/S - 2006 with Tom K

_m.cox_ - Lead O/S - Apr/05 with Jo Stadden

tom.e - 2nd O/S - 2005

Hidden - Lead dog - Dec/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/04

Mark A Humphries - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/04 with dean howard

Boxy - Lead β - 28/Feb/04 with Mick

Paz - Lead O/S - May/03 with TS

DavidR - 2nd O/S - 03/Jun/02 with Jemma Wadham

KRB - Lead O/S - 05/May/02 with Chris & Martin

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - Apr/02

Lev - 2nd O/S - 28/Oct/01

gimmer - 2001

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2001

Jim Brooke - 2nd rpt - 10/Aug/00 with James Latham

Hidden - 2000

Hidden - 2000

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

Jim Brooke - Lead dog - 27/Aug/99 with Liz Cant

John Southworth - Lead O/S - Aug/99

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 19/May/99

guy xavier percival - 1999

Hidden - Lead rpt - 1999

serby - Lead - 1999

craig h - Lead O/S - 23/Mar/98 with Phil B

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Feb/98

r0b - 2nd - 17/Feb/98 with Richard Smith

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1998

mikej - TR - 29/Mar/97 with Nick Salmon

Cowflinger - 2nd - Jun/95 with John Williams

shoulders - Lead - Jun/95 with chrisevans

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Feb/95

lowersharpnose - Lead - 01/Jan/95

Roget - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/94 with jon

First E1 (now E2)
chris sm - Lead - 28/Mar/94 with Martin Sime

AndySL - Lead β - 23/May/93 with Mark

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 24/Jan/93

Hidden - Lead - 17/May/92

Pete Ogden - Lead - 1990

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1989

charlesmfrench - 2nd O/S - 01/Oct/88 with Andy Tallent

had 2nd in May 1986 (E1,5b at the time).
Pete Nugent - Lead β - 12/May/88

bullybones - Lead - 1987

JamieAyres - 2nd O/S - Jun/86 with Phil Windall

Pete Nugent - 2nd - 18/May/86

adriandesouza - Lead O/S - Mar/86

Hidden - Solo O/S - Sep/84

steve L - 2nd - 08/May/83 with Clive Curle

andy gittins - 1983

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 13/Nov/82 with Paul "Curly" Williamson

Steve Bell - 1981

Hidden - Lead - 1981

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Owen W-G, Lukeva, Kemics, Dean177, JamesRich, iceaxejuggler

Total votes cast 125
hard E30 of 43
E30 of 43
easy E30 of 43
hard E22 of 43
E225 of 43
easy E211 of 43
hard E15 of 43
E10 of 43
easy E10 of 43
hard 6a0 of 42
6a0 of 42
easy 6a0 of 42
hard 5c2 of 42
5c29 of 42
easy 5c9 of 42
hard 5b2 of 42
5b0 of 42
easy 5b0 of 42
3 Stars0 of 40
2 Stars26 of 40
1 Star14 of 40
0 Stars0 of 40
Bag of .....0 of 40
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean G/U
Clean RP