Daydream* VS 5a
One of the best single-pitch climbs on this section of the cliff, high in the grade. Start below a thin crack-line just right of the low recess at the base of Simian. 28m. Make some hard, technical starting moves up the thin crack and continue to an overhang. Move left to below a steep corner and climb this to an interesting exit rightwards on some amazingly high friction rock. Take the long narrow corner more easily to the top. © ROCKFAX
G Mason, R Walker 1966

Ticklists: Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, Avon VSes, West Country Climbs.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 287 logbooks, and on 6 wishlists.

Bernie L - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/14 with Julian Bridle, Sebastian Fisher-Green

JulianB - 2nd - 20/Sep/14 with Bernhard Lozowski, Sebastian Fisher-Greene

brew_guru - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/14 with alex

Hidden - Lead - 05/Sep/14

Jack Porteous - Lead - 23/Aug/14 with Alex Rowe

corinrathbone - 2nd dnf - 21/Aug/14 with Łukasz Harazin

LucasHarazin - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/14

mattprince - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/14 with Joe Doherty

maddy92 - Lead - 26/Jul/14

edjenkins - 2nd - 26/Jul/14 with David Maddison

nickwhimster - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/14 with Rob

chrismadar - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/14 with Matthew Lawles

Alex Winter - Solo O/S - 17/Jun/14

One move wonder imo.
felixizzy - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/14 with Craig

shafiq lalloo - 2nd O/S - 01/Jun/14

Different Steve - 2nd - 25/May/14 with Emma Hawkins, Martin Hore

Slick - AltLd - 16/May/14 with Isabel Evans

Hidden - AltLd - 16/May/14

jon_ridley - Lead O/S - 15/May/14 with Will Pope, Jonny Forster

robh14 - Lead - 15/May/14

Zolly Whitaker - Lead O/S - 14/May/14 with Ben Caley, Laurence Falconer

Climbed in trainers, made it more interesting!
laurence_falconer - 2nd rpt - 14/May/14 with Thom Jenkinson, Zolly Whitaker

bencaley - 2nd O/S - 13/May/14 with Zolly Whitaker, Laurence Falconer

Another late night clamber in the Avon Gorge. Head torches on for KA's lead.
fragglerock - 2nd rpt - 17/Apr/14 with Kevin Aston

Hidden - Solo O/S - 16/Apr/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Apr/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/14

lukimotaka - 2nd O/S - 30/Mar/14 with Josh

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/14

Luke Davies - Lead - 17/Mar/14

Hard climbing at the bottom with fairly poor gear at the crux for a VS 5a.
George Frisby - Lead rpt - 16/Mar/14

A good VS pitch, no push over but good holds and enough gear. Worth 2 stars.
Dave Mahon - Lead O/S - 16/Mar/14 with Matt Jackson

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 16/Mar/14

Pleasant route - worth a go if time is too short for a multi.
matt.jj - 2nd O/S - 16/Mar/14 with Dave Mahon

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 15/Mar/14

Luke Davies - Lead - 07/Dec/13

Hidden - Lead - 02/Nov/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Oct/13

Matt_L_Robinson - 2nd - 19/Oct/13

justaddpowder - Lead - 10/Oct/13 with Geoff Smart, Caroline Milree

Carodashes - 10/Oct/13 with justaddpowder

Lead on intro to climbing!
laurence_falconer - Lead - 05/Oct/13 with Sam Holden, Emily Hunt, Ollie Broadhead

emilyjhunt - 2nd - 05/Oct/13 with Laurence Falconer, Oli Broadhead, Sam Holden

riff156 - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/13 with Jo Smith

Richardlake - 2nd O/S - 18/Aug/13 with William Lake

tommy.henriksson78 - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/13 with Djamal Berraki

Hidden - 2nd β - 08/Aug/13

my first VS lead and took me 2 goes to finish it
Tom Harper - Lead RP - 05/Aug/13

philmcf - TR O/S - Aug/13

Top rope day but will lead this next time.
Laura Parker - TR - 28/Jul/13

andrea83 - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/13 with Hamish

Hamish777 - 2nd O/S - 20/Jul/13 with Andrea

steve-grigg - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/13 with David Webster

Webster - 2nd - 23/Jun/13

jacksonm1 - 2nd O/S - 21/Jun/13

Dr Toph - Lead rpt - 18/Jun/13 with Emily

Velo Orange - 2nd O/S - 17/Jun/13 with Toph

Some nice moves on this one, and less polished then its neighbours, once you get past the start.
Dr Toph - Solo O/S - 10/Jun/13

alastairbegley - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Neil Morbey

Nice climb, pretty standard for VS, fairly polished
laurence_falconer - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Tom Hill

steve_gibbs - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Chris Stafford

t_hill - 2nd O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Laurence

laurashaw - 2nd O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Steve Gibbs

I found the opening moves quite tricky for the grade.
masa-alpin - Lead O/S - 27/May/13 with PP

carl_123 - 2nd O/S - 21/May/13

crispycodd - 2nd O/S - 21/May/13 with Stephen Venables

j4star - Lead β - 20/May/13

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 02/May/13 with Harry Martin

gripped01 - 2nd - 20/Apr/13 with Dave Tait

georgeevans88 - 16/Apr/13 with Alex Pattison

Still find this tricky for VS!
aipattison - Lead rpt - 16/Apr/13 with George Evans

hutchay - 2nd - 09/Apr/13 with Taff

Kirill - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/13 with Charles Moreton

cem - 2nd - 01/Apr/13 with Kirill Spiridonov

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Feb/13

Tough start, but well worth it!
BBEENN - Lead O/S - 17/Feb/13

cwildblood - Lead dog - 13/Feb/13

Griff1990 - 2nd O/S - 05/Feb/13 with Will Pope

becoming-stranger - Lead O/S - 05/Feb/13 with Adam G

Warm up. Kind of eliminate as a lot of holds were wet. A touch run out in places but good gear when you get it. Belayed at bolts and scrambled off.
Kemics - Lead O/S - 11/Nov/12 with Enduro Dan

Harder than it looks from the ground but with some strenuous and tenuous but ultimately satisfying moves.
squicky - AltLd O/S - 30/Sep/12 with rg1976

rg1976 - 2nd dog - 30/Sep/12 with squicky

Best route I've done so far in Avon and one of the best VSs I've done in the South West. Bottom section seemed quite easy but nicely technical and interesting. Found the moves up the corner hard and quite reachy and the upper groove was straight-forward but certainly a bit harder than it looked from the ground.
Stuart William - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/12 with Pleb

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/12

Hidden - Lead rpt - 05/Sep/12

Nick Russell - Lead rpt - 05/Sep/12 with Emily

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/12

BazJScott - 2nd O/S - 26/Aug/12

Bex_M - 2nd O/S - 26/Aug/12 with Duncan Dunbar

Hidden - Lead rpt - 22/Aug/12

Slick - 2nd - 20/Aug/12 with Kevin Vans-Colina

Slick - Lead - 19/Aug/12 with Isabel Evans

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Aug/12

James S - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/12 with dan

useful - TR RP - 15/Jul/12

Tom Brierley Gore - Solo rpt - 15/Jul/12

Hidden - Lead - 11/Jul/12

cant remember the exact day. but i can definately remember taking me sweet time on the big step left
Kyle87 - Lead O/S - Jul/12

Hidden - Lead - 23/Jun/12

Sustained hard climb with lots of difficult moves.
George Frisby - 2nd O/S - 09/Jun/12 with Chris

Found the hardest bit was pulling up onto the rib whilst well above the gear. Tough for the grade!
stafford101 - Lead rpt - 09/Jun/12 with George Frisby

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/May/12

A mash up, starting on Simian.
Poco Loco - Lead rpt - 23/May/12 with Becky

Hidden - 2nd - 23/May/12

Hidden - Solo O/S - 13/May/12

pheotleyr - Lead rpt - 15/Apr/12 with Jana

Stone Muppet - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/12 with rd

pheotleyr - Lead rpt - 06/Apr/12 with Jana

jon_gill1 - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/12 with chris Lyness

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/12

damn this thing is shiny! wee bit too much polish but a great route.
mikeydee135 - 2nd O/S - 27/Mar/12 with Jerzy

pheotleyr - TR O/S - 14/Mar/12

Davebryant - Lead - 10/Mar/12 with Matt Hale

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - Feb/12

Nick Russell - Solo rpt - 21/Jan/12

evhall - Lead rpt - 08/Jan/12 with Ruth

Ruth ND - 2nd O/S - 08/Jan/12 with Ev

David Qualtrough - 2012

David Qualtrough - 2012

abtibbs - AltLd O/S - 2012 with Jack Verber

Struggled on the polished wet start while martin crocker did crazy things with skyhooks and pegs on something really hard.
katherinesydney - 2nd O/S - 10/Dec/11 with mike kann

Oh look: it was dark last time I did this route aswell.
fragglerock - Lead β - 10/Dec/11 with Laura

manwithacam - 2nd - 04/Dec/11 with Joris

Joris.Roulleau - Lead O/S - 04/Dec/11 with Dan Metcalfe

pffft - Lead O/S - 20/Nov/11 with Chris Kmiec

Top climb; sustained interest and nicely technical
TimKnight - Lead O/S - 20/Nov/11 with Stephen Heylings

bottom half was still really wet and slippery from the previous night which made for some interesting moves. Moving to easy moves in the dark up top.
Ragingpossum - 2nd O/S - 12/Nov/11 with cbeard

Aided the water saturated crux after puzzling for some minutes. Today we learned this climb dries slowly!
cbeard - Lead O/S - 12/Nov/11 with Will Bourne

Gary S - 2nd - 02/Oct/11 with Tom Moat

beetleb00 - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/11

Second time up, in the light this time. The crux move is equally fun. I was impressed by the rock quality in such a trafficked area of the gorge!
Nick Russell - Lead rpt - 27/Sep/11

HarryB - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/11 with Ollie

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Sep/11

Done in the dark. Fun climbing, well protected at the crux. A bit of a bushwack at the top, but that may have more to do with my nocturnal navigation
Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/11

joedoherty - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/11 with Steve Knaggs

Gibbo - Lead - 09/Aug/11 with Claire Chipperfield, Tom Gibbison

BenRyle - 2nd O/S - 01/Aug/11

CharlotteMilner - 2nd O/S - 01/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/11

higher end VS, good route but a few polished footholds are a little annoying.
Stanners - 2nd O/S - 03/Jul/11 with Jack Bradbrook

Surprisingly good climbing compared to what I was expecting. Solid gear if a little spaced and a reachy crux move.
Quarryboy - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/11 with Rob Stanfield

Typical; hmm it's getting dark. Time for one more? - route! Dispatched without drama. Only the start warrants the grade with the rest of the climbing easier and better protected.
fragglerock - Lead rpt - 29/Jun/11 with Tom Prince

Richard Kemble - 2nd - 27/Jun/11 with Ellie Barnard

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/11

Tom Brierley Gore - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/11 with Shijing Hu

karenhh - 2nd - 16/Jun/11 with Tom Brierley

Nice technical bottom section, plenty of gear where it's needed
Mike Kiss - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/11 with Nick Hatton

Dave Ing - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/11 with Andy D

andy dunn - 2nd - 03/Jun/11 with dave

bpmclimb - 2nd rpt - 03/May/11 with Helen S

used the very handy lower-off rather than slog all the way to the top
hms - Lead O/S - 03/May/11 with Brian

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/May/11

Slick - Lead - 19/Apr/11 with David Q

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/11

Tricky early section with slippery.
suffolknick - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/11 with clams

stafford101 - TR - 02/Mar/11

Marti999 - 2nd O/S - 28/Feb/11 with Mick Ward

31770 - 2011

fletch73 - 2011

Danny Bags - 2011

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Nov/10

Sam1991 - 2nd - 17/Oct/10 with Dave USMC

after backing off the HVS next door, traversed in and finished up this
Sam1991 - Lead β - 17/Oct/10 with Dave USMC

mark schramm - 2nd - 10/Oct/10 with tom m

tommoulds - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/10 with Schramm

Paul Bowen - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/10 with Nicola Brankley

Nice lead, with a few polished holds at the bottom. 3 good bolts at the top to help setup a top rope.
Gaijin - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/10

Clay C - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/10 with Todd

TDembrey - 2nd rpt - 09/Sep/10 with Clay

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/10

fragglerock - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/10 with Jon Lumb

TDembrey - Lead rpt - 05/Aug/10 with Steve

TDembrey - Lead rpt - 25/Jul/10 with Jana

TDembrey - 2nd O/S - 24/Jul/10 with Rob

R_W_M - Lead rpt - 24/Jul/10 with Todd

Jay C - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/10 with Sam W

samwillo - AltLd - 26/Jun/10 with Jay

Slick - Lead - 03/Jun/10

First lead; seconded 17 years ago, so felt like o/s
Jon Didymus - Lead rpt - 21/May/10 with Nick

nick hawkins - 2nd - 15/May/10 with peter

Becky H - 2nd O/S - May/10 with John Murphy, Felix

mark schramm - Lead - 15/Apr/10 with si

Trick start but good going and plenty protection.
ron244 - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/10 with Mike Connor

mpc - 2nd - 08/Apr/10 with Ron Thomas

Simon Allcock - 2nd - Apr/10 with Mark

Pete Rigby - Lead O/S - Apr/10 with Kelli Roberts

Tomar - 2nd O/S - 09/Mar/10 with "Brosky"

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Feb/10

R_W_M - 2nd - 20/Feb/10 with Eleri

hutchay - Lead O/S - Jan/10 with Dave Nicholl

Hidden - 2010

clams - Lead - 2010 with LM

kelliroberts3 - 2nd - 2010 with Peter Rigby

bottom section sketchy.... polished, slippery, tricky, then upper section fine, easy straightfwd etc etc.
richardadventurecafe - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/09 with Stevan James

Tom's second outdoor climb.
Will Homoky - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/09 with Tom Whitton

crossdressingrodney - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/09 with Ruth

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Sep/09

slippery!!
evhall - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/09 with Fletch

Fell off the initial 5a crack, foot slipped of a shiny hold. Reminded me why I dont climb in this end of the Sea Walls!
Poco Loco - Lead dnf - 09/Sep/09

Chris Sansum - Lead rpt - 07/Jun/09 with Paola

paola - 2nd - 07/Jun/09 with Chris Sansum

mol - Lead - 05/Jun/09 with Jesse

Can't acutally rmember the date, which is a shame. Didn't realise i ahdn't added it.
Wrighty87 - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/09 with Funky Greek - Yannis

Jesse Dufton - 2nd - 05/Jun/09 with Molly Thompson

halfwaythere - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/09 with nick hawkins

Hidden - TR rpt - 24/May/09

After the downpour!
Chris Sansum - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/09 with Gary Lewin

georgeevans88 - TR O/S - 23/Apr/09 with Alex

aipattison - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/09 with Cate Muir

Very polished on the start
catemuir - 2nd - 22/Apr/09 with Alex Pattison

Monk - Lead rpt - 12/Apr/09 with Luke Vincent

pffft - 2nd O/S - 12/Apr/09 with Monkey

Good route with some nice moves and excellent gear.
Ewan Richards - Lead O/S - 18/Mar/09 with Tara

Harder than it looked!
ClareR - 2nd β - 15/Mar/09 with Claire

Hidden - TR - 21/Feb/09

Hidden - 2009

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Oct/08

Hidden - 2nd - Oct/08

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Aug/08

sdkoutdoor - 2nd - 08/Aug/08 with That Guy!

Slippy start, but hardly 5a. Simian next door is supposedly the same technical grade, but there's no comparison whatsoever.
ruaidh - Lead β - 03/Aug/08 with Paul

Go right at the crux onto the arete for much grippier rock
Karlos - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/08 with Daniela

Hidden - TR O/S - 21/Jul/08

2nd VS, quite scary near the bottom! Needed a size 2 1/2 nut, without one it felt rather deckable.
CarolineH - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/08 with Neil and Dave 10

bsavage - 2nd O/S - 01/Mar/08 with Rob Horton

jh5638 - Lead O/S - 01/Mar/08 with Rob Horton

rh5980 - Lead O/S - 20/Feb/08 with Piers and Flic

Al Franks - Solo O/S - 17/Feb/08

Alasdair88 - Solo rpt - 17/Feb/08

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 02/Feb/08 with Clare

Monk - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/07

Al Franks - Lead - 04/Sep/07 with Sam Howell

Alasdair88 - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/07 with Sam Howell

Hidden - Lead dog - Sep/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/07

Circus - Solo O/S - 13/Aug/07

chiverstom - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/07 with Jonny

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/07

Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 25/May/07 with Neil Ferguson

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 20/Apr/07

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 14/Feb/07 with Clare

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2007

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/06

Good route, not sure I could lead through the crux at the overhang yet, need a better head for it. Did not top out but elected to ab off from the 4 bolts about 20m up the route.
Tempest - 2nd - 23/Sep/06 with AndyM

maresia - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/06 with Mike Kann

seriously slippery start
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/06 with Mark

Sean Bell - 2nd - 21/Jul/06 with rob

Hidden - 2nd RP - 14/Jun/06

Hidden - Solo O/S - 08/Jun/06

pattisonr - Jun/06 with Matt

Tamlyn - Lead O/S - 06/May/06 with Rob Slacks

beardy mike - 2nd - 2006 with Philippe Azzi

Taken a fall in this before. Very polished and tough for grade.
JamesColeman - Lead rpt - 2006 with Alan

mwh - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/05 with Rachel Smith

Hidden - Solo O/S - Jun/05

aldred - Lead O/S - 2005 with Russ

furry - 2nd - 13/Sep/04 with Neil

djking1983 - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/04 with Rich Brimelow

Marq - 2nd O/S - 21/Aug/04 with Daniel Dennehy

bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 09/Mar/04 with Clare

With that really good climber I met at Avon.
Richard Hall - Lead O/S - 2003

Date's a bit of a guess.
Paz - Solo O/S - 05/Oct/02

Lev - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/02 with Tom Elliot

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Apr/01

Hidden - Lead - Apr/00

Hidden - 2000

guy xavier percival - 1999

Hidden - AltLd - 1999

chrisrogers - 2nd O/S - Jul/97 with Steve J

DavidR - 2nd O/S - 31/May/97 with John Marston and Nathan Rippin

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 1997

mikej - Lead - 18/Nov/95 with Nick Salmon

lowersharpnose - Lead - 01/Jan/95

jim_randell - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/94 with MB

Jon Didymus - 2nd O/S - 25/Apr/93 with Chris

chris sm - TR O/S - 07/Mar/93 with Martin Sime

AndySL - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/92 with Mark

leland stamper - Lead - 13/Oct/85

JamieAyres - TR O/S - Apr/85 with Phil Windall

Nigel Bond - Lead - 17/Apr/83 with Charlie Leverton

Hidden - Solo O/S - Sep/82

tapley - Lead - 03/Nov/73 with Alison Tapley

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1973

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
dave4430, alexporter, mullermn, nchammer

Voting
Total votes cast 155
hard HVS0 of 55
HVS0 of 55
easy HVS1 of 55
hard VS32 of 55
VS17 of 55
easy VS5 of 55
hard HS0 of 55
HS0 of 55
easy HS0 of 55
hard 5b0 of 58
5b0 of 58
easy 5b1 of 58
hard 5a1 of 58
5a41 of 58
easy 5a13 of 58
hard 4c1 of 58
4c1 of 58
easy 4c0 of 58
3 Stars0 of 42
2 Stars11 of 42
1 Star20 of 42
0 Stars11 of 42
Bag of .....0 of 42
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Style of ascent

Soloed
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Alt Leads
Unknown
Climbed
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Clean β
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dogged
dnf