Avon > Avon Gorge (Sea Walls) >
 
Daydream* VS 5a

Adjacent Climbs
<< Humdinger Jury
 
Hi, how are you >>
One of the best single-pitch climbs on this section of the cliff, high in the grade. Start below a thin crack-line just right of the low recess at the base of Simian. 28m. Make some hard, technical starting moves up the thin crack and continue to an overhang. Move left to below a steep corner and climb this to an interesting exit rightwards on some amazingly high friction rock. Take the long narrow corner more easily to the top. © ROCKFAX
G Mason, R Walker 1966

Ticklists: Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, Avon VSes, West Country Climbs.

Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 228 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

Dr Toph - Lead rpt - 18/Jun/13 with Emily

Velo Orange - 2nd O/S - 17/Jun/13 with Toph

Some nice moves on this one, and less polished then its neighbours, once you get past the start.
Dr Toph - Solo O/S - 10/Jun/13

Foxy - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Neil Morbey

Nice climb, pretty standard for VS, fairly polished
laurence_falconer - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Tom Hill

steve_gibbs - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/13

t_hill - 2nd O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Laurence

laurashaw - 2nd O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Steve Gibbs

I found the opening moves quite tricky for the grade.
masa-alpin - Lead O/S - 27/May/13 with PP

carl_123 - 2nd O/S - 21/May/13

crispycodd - 2nd O/S - 21/May/13 with Stephen Venables

j4star - Lead β - 20/May/13

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 02/May/13 with Harry Martin

gripped01 - 2nd - 20/Apr/13 with Dave Tait

georgeevans88 - 16/Apr/13 with Alex Pattison

Still find this tricky for VS!
aipattison - Lead rpt - 16/Apr/13 with George Evans

hutchay - 2nd - 09/Apr/13 with Taff

Kirill - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/13 with Charles Moreton

cem - 2nd O/S - 01/Apr/13 with Kirill Spiridonov

Kafoozalem - Lead O/S - 17/Feb/13 with Rik Meek

Tough start, but well worth it!
BBEENN - Lead O/S - 17/Feb/13

Griff1990 - 2nd O/S - 05/Feb/13 with Will Pope

becoming-stranger - Lead O/S - 05/Feb/13 with Adam G

Warm up. Kind of eliminate as a lot of holds were wet. A touch run out in places but good gear when you get it. Belayed at bolts and scrambled off.
Kemics - Lead O/S - 11/Nov/12 with Enduro Dan

Harder than it looks from the ground but with some strenuous and tenuous but ultimately satisfying moves.
squicky - AltLd O/S - 30/Sep/12 with rg1976

rg1976 - 2nd dog - 30/Sep/12 with squicky

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/12

will7 - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/12 with techno gek

Hidden - Lead rpt - 05/Sep/12

Nick Russell - Lead rpt - 05/Sep/12 with Emily

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/12

AndyMcCoy - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/12 with Nathan

BazJScott - 2nd O/S - 26/Aug/12

Bex_M - 2nd O/S - 26/Aug/12 with Duncan Dunbar

Hidden - Lead rpt - 22/Aug/12

Slick - 2nd - 20/Aug/12 with Kevin Vans-Colina

Slick - Lead - 19/Aug/12 with Isabel Evans

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Aug/12

James S - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/12 with dan

useful - TR RP - 15/Jul/12

Tom Brierley Gore - Solo rpt - 15/Jul/12

Hidden - Lead - 11/Jul/12

Hidden - Lead - 23/Jun/12

Sustained hard climb with lots of difficult moves.
George Frisby - 2nd O/S - 09/Jun/12 with Chris

Found the hardest bit was pulling up onto the rib whilst well above the gear. Tough for the grade!
stafford101 - Lead rpt - 09/Jun/12 with George Frisby

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/May/12

A mash up, starting on Simian.
Poco Loco - Lead rpt - 23/May/12 with Becky

Hidden - 2nd - 23/May/12

Hidden - Solo O/S - 13/May/12

pheotleyr - Lead rpt - 15/Apr/12 with Jana

Stone Muppet - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/12 with rd

pheotleyr - Lead rpt - 06/Apr/12 with Jana

jon_gill1 - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/12 with chris Lyness

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/12

damn this thing is shiny! wee bit too much polish but a great route.
mikeydee135 - 2nd O/S - 27/Mar/12 with Jerzy

pheotleyr - TR O/S - 14/Mar/12

Davebryant - Lead - 10/Mar/12 with Matt Hale

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - Feb/12

Nick Russell - Solo rpt - 21/Jan/12

evhall - Lead rpt - 08/Jan/12 with Ruth

Ruth ND - 2nd O/S - 08/Jan/12 with Ev

David Qualtrough - 2012

David Qualtrough - 2012

abtibbs - AltLd O/S - 2012 with Jack Verber

Struggled on the polished wet start while martin crocker did crazy things with skyhooks and pegs on something really hard.
katherinesydney - 2nd O/S - 10/Dec/11 with mike kann

Oh look: it was dark last time I did this route aswell.
fragglerock - Lead β - 10/Dec/11 with Laura

middlemarker - 2nd - 04/Dec/11 with Joris

Joris.Roulleau - Lead O/S - 04/Dec/11 with Dan Metcalfe

pffft - Lead O/S - 20/Nov/11 with Chris Kmiec

Top climb; sustained interest and nicely technical
TimKnight - Lead O/S - 20/Nov/11 with Stephen Heylings

bottom half was still really wet and slippery from the previous night which made for some interesting moves. Moving to easy moves in the dark up top.
Ragingpossum - 2nd O/S - 12/Nov/11 with cbeard

Aided the water saturated crux after puzzling for some minutes. Today we learned this climb dries slowly!
cbeard - Lead O/S - 12/Nov/11 with Will Bourne

Gary S - 2nd - 02/Oct/11 with Tom Moat

beetleb00 - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/11

Second time up, in the light this time. The crux move is equally fun. I was impressed by the rock quality in such a trafficked area of the gorge!
Nick Russell - Lead rpt - 27/Sep/11

HarryB - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/11 with Ollie

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Sep/11

Done in the dark. Fun climbing, well protected at the crux. A bit of a bushwack at the top, but that may have more to do with my nocturnal navigation
Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/11

joedoherty - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/11 with Steve Knaggs

Gibbo - Lead - 09/Aug/11 with Claire Chipperfield, Tom Gibbison

BenRyle - 2nd O/S - 01/Aug/11

CharlotteMilner - 2nd O/S - 01/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/11

higher end VS, good route but a few polished footholds are a little annoying.
Stanners - 2nd O/S - 03/Jul/11 with Jack Bradbrook

Surprisingly good climbing compared to what I was expecting. Solid gear if a little spaced and a reachy crux move.
Quarryboy - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/11 with Rob Stanfield

Typical; hmm it's getting dark. Time for one more? - route! Dispatched without drama. Only the start warrants the grade with the rest of the climbing easier and better protected.
fragglerock - Lead rpt - 29/Jun/11 with Tom Prince

Richard Kemble - 2nd - 27/Jun/11 with Ellie Barnard

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/11

Tom Brierley Gore - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/11 with Shijing Hu

karenhh - 2nd - 16/Jun/11 with Tom Brierley

Nice technical bottom section, plenty of gear where it's needed
Mike Kiss - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/11 with Nick Hatton

Dave Ing - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/11 with Andy D

andy dunn - 2nd - 03/Jun/11 with dave

bpmclimb - 2nd rpt - 03/May/11 with Helen S

used the very handy lower-off rather than slog all the way to the top
hms - Lead O/S - 03/May/11 with Brian

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/May/11

Slick - Lead - 19/Apr/11 with David Q

first uk VS...nice moves
tommack - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/11

Tricky early section with slippery.
suffolknick - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/11 with clams

stafford101 - TR - 02/Mar/11

Marti999 - 2nd O/S - 28/Feb/11 with Mick Ward

31770 - 2011

fletch73 - 2011

Danny Bags - 2011

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Nov/10

Sam1991 - 2nd - 17/Oct/10 with Dave USMC

after backing off the HVS next door, traversed in and finished up this
Sam1991 - Lead β - 17/Oct/10 with Dave USMC

mark schramm - 2nd - 10/Oct/10 with tom m

tommoulds - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/10 with Schramm

Paul Bowen - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/10 with Nicola Brankley

Nice lead, with a few polished holds at the bottom. 3 good bolts at the top to help setup a top rope.
Gaijin - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/10

Clay C - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/10 with Todd

TDembrey - 2nd rpt - 09/Sep/10 with Clay

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/10

fragglerock - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/10 with Jon Lumb

TDembrey - Lead rpt - 05/Aug/10 with Steve

TDembrey - Lead rpt - 25/Jul/10 with Jana

TDembrey - 2nd O/S - 24/Jul/10 with Rob

R_W_M - Lead rpt - 24/Jul/10 with Todd

Jay C - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/10 with Sam W

samwillo - AltLd - 26/Jun/10 with Jay

Slick - Lead - 03/Jun/10

First lead; seconded 17 years ago, so felt like o/s
Jon Didymus - Lead rpt - 21/May/10 with Nick

nick hawkins - 2nd - 15/May/10 with peter

Becky H - 2nd O/S - May/10 with John Murphy, Felix

mark schramm - Lead - 15/Apr/10 with si

Trick start but good going and plenty protection.
ron244 - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/10 with Mike Conner

mpc - 2nd - 08/Apr/10 with Ron Thomas

Simon Allcock - 2nd - Apr/10 with Mark

Pete Rigby - Lead O/S - Apr/10 with Kelli Roberts

Vertigo1 - 2nd O/S - 09/Mar/10 with "Brosky"

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Feb/10

R_W_M - 2nd - 20/Feb/10 with Eleri

hutchay - Lead O/S - Jan/10 with Dave Nicholl

Hidden - 2010

clams - Lead - 2010 with LM

kelliroberts3 - 2nd - 2010 with Peter Rigby

bottom section sketchy.... polished, slippery, tricky, then upper section fine, easy straightfwd etc etc.
richardadventurecafe - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/09 with Stevan James

Tom's second outdoor climb.
Will Homoky - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/09 with Tom Whitton

crossdressingrodney - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/09 with Ruth

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Sep/09

slippery!!
evhall - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/09 with Fletch

Fell off the initial 5a crack, foot slipped of a shiny hold. Reminded me why I dont climb in this end of the Sea Walls!
Poco Loco - Lead dnf - 09/Sep/09

Chris Sansum - Lead rpt - 07/Jun/09 with Paola

paola - 2nd - 07/Jun/09 with Chris Sansum

mol - Lead - 05/Jun/09 with Jesse

Can't acutally rmember the date, which is a shame. Didn't realise i ahdn't added it.
Wrighty87 - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/09 with Funky Greek - Yannis

Jesse Dufton - 2nd - 05/Jun/09 with Molly Thompson

halfwaythere - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/09 with nick hawkins

Hidden - TR rpt - 24/May/09

After the downpour!
Chris Sansum - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/09 with Gary Lewin

georgeevans88 - TR O/S - 23/Apr/09 with Alex

aipattison - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/09 with Cate Muir

Very polished on the start
catemuir - 2nd - 22/Apr/09 with Alex Pattison

Monk - Lead rpt - 12/Apr/09 with Luke Vincent

pffft - 2nd O/S - 12/Apr/09 with Monkey

Good route with some nice moves and excellent gear.
Ewan Richards - Lead O/S - 18/Mar/09 with Tara

Harder than it looked!
ClareR - 2nd β - 15/Mar/09 with Claire

Hidden - TR - 21/Feb/09

Hidden - 2009

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Oct/08

Hidden - 2nd - Oct/08

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Aug/08

sdkoutdoor - 2nd - 08/Aug/08 with That Guy!

Slippy start, but hardly 5a. Simian next door is supposedly the same technical grade, but there's no comparison whatsoever.
ruaidh - Lead β - 03/Aug/08 with Paul

Go right at the crux onto the arete for much grippier rock
Karlos - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/08 with Daniela

Hidden - TR O/S - 21/Jul/08

2nd VS, quite scary near the bottom! Needed a size 2 1/2 nut, without one it felt rather deckable.
CarolineH - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/08 with Neil and Dave 10

bsavage - 2nd O/S - 01/Mar/08 with Rob Horton

jh5638 - Lead O/S - 01/Mar/08 with Rob Horton

rh5980 - Lead O/S - 20/Feb/08 with Piers and Flic

Al Franks - Solo O/S - 17/Feb/08

Alasdair88 - Solo rpt - 17/Feb/08

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 02/Feb/08 with Clare

Monk - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/07

Al Franks - Lead - 04/Sep/07 with Sam Howell

Alasdair88 - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/07 with Sam Howell

Hidden - Lead dog - Sep/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/07

Circus - Solo O/S - 13/Aug/07

chiverstom - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/07 with Jonny

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/07

Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 25/May/07 with Neil Ferguson

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 20/Apr/07

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 14/Feb/07 with Clare

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2007

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/06

Good route, not sure I could lead through the crux at the overhang yet, need a better head for it. Did not top out but elected to ab off from the 4 bolts about 20m up the route.
Tempest - 2nd - 23/Sep/06 with AndyM

maresia - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/06 with Mike Kann

seriously slippery start
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/06 with Mark

SeanB - 2nd - 21/Jul/06 with rob

Hidden - 2nd RP - 14/Jun/06

Hidden - Solo O/S - 08/Jun/06

pattisonr - Jun/06 with Matt

Tamlyn - Lead O/S - 06/May/06 with Rob Slacks

mike kann - 2nd - 2006 with Philippe Azzi

Taken a fall in this before. Very polished and tough for grade.
JamesColeman - Lead rpt - 2006 with Alan

mwh - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/05 with Rachel Smith

Hidden - Solo O/S - Jun/05

aldred - Lead O/S - 2005 with Russ

furry - 2nd - 13/Sep/04 with Neil

djking1983 - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/04 with Rich Brimelow

Marq - 2nd O/S - 21/Aug/04 with Daniel Dennehy

bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 09/Mar/04 with Clare

With that really good climber I met at Avon.
Richard Hall - Lead O/S - 2003

Date's a bit of a guess.
Paz - Solo O/S - 05/Oct/02

Lev - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/02 with Tom Elliot

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Apr/01

Hidden - Lead - Apr/00

Hidden - 2000

guy xavier percival - 1999

Hidden - AltLd - 1999

chrisrogers - 2nd O/S - Jul/97 with Steve J

DavidR - 2nd O/S - 31/May/97 with John Marston and Nathan Rippin

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 1997

lowersharpnose - Lead - 01/Jan/95

jim_randell - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/94 with MB

Jon Didymus - 2nd O/S - Apr/93 with Chris

chris sm - TR O/S - 07/Mar/93 with Martin Sime

AndySL - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/92 with Mark

leland stamper - 1990

JamieAyres - TR O/S - Apr/85 with Phil Windall

Nigel Bond - Lead - 17/Apr/83 with Charlie Leverton

Hidden - Solo O/S - Sep/82

Steve Woollard - Lead O/S - 1973

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
alexporter, mullermn, nchammer

Voting
Total votes cast 133
hard HVS0 of 46
HVS0 of 46
easy HVS1 of 46
hard VS26 of 46
VS15 of 46
easy VS4 of 46
hard HS0 of 46
HS0 of 46
easy HS0 of 46
hard 5b0 of 49
5b0 of 49
easy 5b1 of 49
hard 5a1 of 49
5a33 of 49
easy 5a13 of 49
hard 4c1 of 49
4c0 of 49
easy 4c0 of 49
3 Stars0 of 38
2 Stars9 of 38
1 Star18 of 38
0 Stars11 of 38
Bag of .....0 of 38
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed11 of 228 (4.8%)
Lead126 of 228 (55.3%)
Followed66 of 228 (28.9%)
Toproped9 of 228 (3.9%)
Alt Leads4 of 228 (1.8%)
Unknown12 of 228 (5.3%)

'Climbed'59 of 228 (25.9%)
clean O/S131 of 228 (57.5%)
clean β5 of 228 (2.2%)
clean rpt28 of 228 (12.3%)
clean RP2 of 228 (0.9%)
dogged2 of 228 (0.9%)
dnf1 of 228 (0.4%)