Rockfax Description
One of the best single-pitch climbs on this section of the cliff, high in the grade. Start below a thin crack-line just right of the low recess at the base of Simian.
Make some hard, technical starting moves up the thin crack and continue to an overhang. Move left to below a steep corner and climb this to an interesting exit rightwards on some amazingly high friction rock. Take the long narrow corner more easily to the top. © Rockfax

G Mason, R Walker 1966

Ticklists: Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, Avon VSes, West Country Climbs.

Angrypenguin 17/Oct Solo rpt

Did it right this time, to the left of the block.

mr random 16/Oct Lead
with Rafael Malczyk
MortenKiil 03/Oct TR O/S
Angrypenguin 27/Sep TR O/S

Wrong again.

with Colin Hamilton
smartydh9 26/Sep Lead O/S
tcn_2002 26/Sep Lead
Wendy Watthews 19/Sep Lead O/S
arandall 19/Sep 2nd O/S
Angrypenguin 12/Sep Lead O/S

Did it wrong, went round to the right of the block to do the move on Zebedee

with Cat
catty_9 12/Sep 2nd O/S

Nice climb

Hidden 07/Sep 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Sep Lead
Hidden 21/Aug Lead O/S
Robheirene 21/Aug Lead O/S

First ever trad lead, loved it, great climb.

Hidden 11/Aug Lead
Laurence20 30/Jul Lead O/S
with Simon Mcvarish, Bob Couper, Ruaraidh Fairbairn
ChristyCole 25/Jul Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jul Lead O/S
minty1984 16/Jul Lead O/S

Nice route. Typical avon style.... Polished and a bit run out in places but very enjoyable climbing. Nice hard technical start then great moves exiting the corner. Recommended

Steve Bartle 15/Jul Lead O/S

A great route, and one I was pleased to have lead. Technical lower down, but well protected. The moves out of the steep corner are pretty exciting

danieleaston 15/Jul 2nd O/S
with Steve
Legs 23/Jun Lead O/S

Great move around/over the bulge.

with Sarah
Hidden 23/Jun 2nd
Lizziemay 23/Jun 2nd O/S

Nice climb, interesting start that surprisingly suit little people ;) interesting one to start thinking about placing trad gear. Learnt a lot although seconding ;)

with DanHB
DanHB 23/Jun Lead rpt
Dr Toph 08/Jun Solo rpt
Hidden 02/Jun Lead O/S
ali.scott 12/May Lead O/S
WillAndrew 12/May 2nd O/S
with Ali
Trisha Murphy 01/May Lead O/S
with Meg, mel
Trisha Murphy 01/May Lead O/S
with Meg, mel
Melonfly ?/Apr Lead
with Dan HB
Hidden 07/Mar 2nd O/S
JamesRich 07/Mar Lead O/S
with Lewis
ewanthomson 07/Mar Lead O/S
with Wildblood
laurence_falconer 04/Mar 2nd
with Maddi Stewart, Megan Jackson
Maddi Stewart ?/Feb Lead O/S

Clean - went up wrong route half way up so had to down climb round boulder and continue up

Bernie L 20/Sep/14 Lead O/S
JulianB 20/Sep/14 2nd
brew_guru 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Nevil 05/Sep/14 Lead
with Mike
Jack Porteous 23/Aug/14 Lead
Hidden 21/Aug/14 2nd dnf
LucasHarazin 20/Aug/14 Lead O/S
mattprince 27/Jul/14 Lead O/S
maddy92 26/Jul/14 Lead
edjenkins 26/Jul/14 2nd
nickwhimster 23/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Rob
chrismadar 20/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Matthew Lawles
Alex Winter 17/Jun/14 Solo O/S
felixizzy 08/Jun/14 Lead O/S

One move wonder imo.

with Craig
shafiq lalloo 01/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Different Steve 25/May/14 2nd
with Emma Hawkins, Martin Hore
Slick 16/May/14 AltLd
Egons Issy 16/May/14 AltLd
jon_ridley 15/May/14 Lead O/S
robh14 15/May/14 Lead
Zolly Whitaker 14/May/14 Lead O/S
with Ben Caley, Laurence Falconer
laurence_falconer 14/May/14 2nd rpt

Climbed in trainers, made it more interesting!

with Thom Jenkinson, Zolly Whitaker
bencaley 13/May/14 2nd O/S
Ezra_Byrne ?/May/14 Lead O/S
fragglerock 17/Apr/14 2nd rpt

Another late night clamber in the Avon Gorge. Head torches on for KA's lead.

with Kevin Aston
Hidden 16/Apr/14 Solo O/S
Hidden 16/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
Dino Dave 14/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Dad
lukimotaka 30/Mar/14 2nd O/S

A good climb, not sure why graded as 5a though

with Josh
Hidden 29/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Luke Davies 17/Mar/14 Lead
George Frisby 16/Mar/14 Lead rpt

Hard climbing at the bottom with fairly poor gear at the crux for a VS 5a.

Dave Mahon 16/Mar/14 Lead O/S

A good VS pitch, no push over but good holds and enough gear. Worth 2 stars.

Hidden 16/Mar/14 2nd rpt
matt.jj 16/Mar/14 2nd O/S

Pleasant route - worth a go if time is too short for a multi.

with Dave Mahon
Hidden 15/Mar/14 2nd rpt
Luke Davies 07/Dec/13 Lead
Hidden 02/Nov/13 Lead
Hidden 19/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Matt_L_Robinson 19/Oct/13 2nd
justaddpowder 10/Oct/13 Lead
with Geoff Smart, Caroline Milree
Carodashes 10/Oct/13 -
laurence_falconer 05/Oct/13 Lead

Lead on intro to climbing!

with Sam Holden, Emily Hunt, Ollie Broadhead
emilyjhunt 05/Oct/13 2nd
with Laurence Falconer, Oli Broadhead, Sam Holden
Hidden 14/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Richardlake 18/Aug/13 2nd O/S
will_lake 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S
tommy.henriksson78 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Djamal Berraki
Hidden 08/Aug/13 2nd β
Tom Harper 05/Aug/13 Lead RP

my first VS lead and took me 2 goes to finish it

philmcf ?/Aug/13 TR O/S
Laura Parker 28/Jul/13 TR

Top rope day but will lead this next time.

andrea83 20/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Hamish
Hamish777 20/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Andrea
steve-grigg 26/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Webster 23/Jun/13 2nd
jacksonm1 21/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Dr Toph 18/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with Emily
Velo Orange 17/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Toph
Dr Toph 10/Jun/13 Solo O/S

Some nice moves on this one, and less polished then its neighbours, once you get past the start.

alastairbegley 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
laurence_falconer 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Nice climb, pretty standard for VS, fairly polished

steve_gibbs 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
t_hill 01/Jun/13 2nd O/S
laurashaw 01/Jun/13 2nd O/S
masa-alpin 27/May/13 Lead O/S

I found the opening moves quite tricky for the grade.

with PP
carl_123 21/May/13 2nd O/S
crispycodd 21/May/13 2nd O/S
j4star 20/May/13 Lead β
tobydunford 02/May/13 Lead O/S
with Harry Martin
gripped01 20/Apr/13 2nd
with Dave Tait
georgeevans88 16/Apr/13 -
aipattison 16/Apr/13 Lead rpt

Still find this tricky for VS!

hutchay 09/Apr/13 2nd
with Taff
Kirill 01/Apr/13 Lead O/S
cem 01/Apr/13 2nd
Hidden 17/Feb/13 Lead O/S
BBEENN 17/Feb/13 Lead O/S

Tough start, but well worth it!

cwildblood 13/Feb/13 Lead dog
Griff1990 05/Feb/13 2nd O/S
becoming-stranger 05/Feb/13 Lead O/S
with Adam G
Kemics 11/Nov/12 Lead O/S

Warm up. Kind of eliminate as a lot of holds were wet. A touch run out in places but good gear when you get it. Belayed at bolts and scrambled off.

squicky 30/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Harder than it looks from the ground but with some strenuous and tenuous but ultimately satisfying moves.

with rg1976
rg1976 30/Sep/12 2nd dog
with squicky
Stuart William 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Best route I've done so far in Avon and one of the best VSs I've done in the South West. Bottom section seemed quite easy but nicely technical and interesting. Found the moves up the corner hard and quite reachy and the upper groove was straight-forward but certainly a bit harder than it looked from the ground.

with Pleb
Hidden 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Sep/12 Lead rpt
Nick Russell 05/Sep/12 Lead rpt
with Emily
Hidden 01/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/12 Lead O/S
BazJScott 26/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Bex_M 26/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Duncan Dunbar
Hidden 22/Aug/12 Lead rpt
Slick 20/Aug/12 2nd
Slick 19/Aug/12 Lead
Egons Issy 19/Aug/12 2nd
James S 23/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with dan
useful 15/Jul/12 TR RP
Tom Brierley Gore 15/Jul/12 Solo rpt
Hidden 11/Jul/12 Lead
Kyle87 ?/Jul/12 Lead O/S

cant remember the exact day. but i can definately remember taking me sweet time on the big step left

Hidden 23/Jun/12 Lead
George Frisby 09/Jun/12 2nd O/S

Sustained hard climb with lots of difficult moves.

with Chris
stafford101 09/Jun/12 Lead rpt

Found the hardest bit was pulling up onto the rib whilst well above the gear. Tough for the grade!

Hidden 29/May/12 Lead O/S
Poco Loco 23/May/12 Lead rpt

A mash up, starting on Simian.

with Becky
Hidden 23/May/12 2nd
Hidden 13/May/12 Solo O/S
pheotleyr 15/Apr/12 Lead rpt
with Jana
Stone Muppet 13/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with rd
pheotleyr 06/Apr/12 Lead rpt
with Jana
jon_gill1 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with chris Lyness
Hidden 27/Mar/12 Lead O/S
mikeydee135 27/Mar/12 2nd O/S

damn this thing is shiny! wee bit too much polish but a great route.

with Jerzy
pheotleyr 14/Mar/12 TR O/S
Davebryant 10/Mar/12 Lead
with Matt Hale
Hidden 02/Mar/12 2nd O/S
FrenchOlly ?/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Nick Russell 21/Jan/12 Solo rpt
Hidden 08/Jan/12 Lead rpt
Ruth ND 08/Jan/12 2nd O/S
with Ev
David Qualtrough ??/2012 -
David Qualtrough ??/2012 -
abtibbs ??/2012 AltLd O/S
with Jack Verber
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
katherinesydney 10/Dec/11 2nd O/S

Struggled on the polished wet start while martin crocker did crazy things with skyhooks and pegs on something really hard.

fragglerock 10/Dec/11 Lead β

Oh look: it was dark last time I did this route aswell.

with Laura
manwithacam 04/Dec/11 2nd
with Joris
Joris.Roulleau 04/Dec/11 Lead O/S
pffft 20/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Chris Kmiec
TimKnight 20/Nov/11 Lead O/S

Top climb; sustained interest and nicely technical

with Stephen Heylings
Ragingpossum 12/Nov/11 2nd O/S

bottom half was still really wet and slippery from the previous night which made for some interesting moves. Moving to easy moves in the dark up top.

with cbeard
cbeard 12/Nov/11 Lead O/S

Aided the water saturated crux after puzzling for some minutes. Today we learned this climb dries slowly!

Gary S 02/Oct/11 2nd
with Tom Moat
beetleb00 29/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Nick Russell 27/Sep/11 Lead rpt

Second time up, in the light this time. The crux move is equally fun. I was impressed by the rock quality in such a trafficked area of the gorge!

HarryB 23/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Ollie
Hidden 23/Sep/11 2nd O/S
Nick Russell 16/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Done in the dark. Fun climbing, well protected at the crux. A bit of a bushwack at the top, but that may have more to do with my nocturnal navigation

Hidden 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S
joedoherty 01/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Gibbo 09/Aug/11 Lead
with Claire Chipperfield, Tom Gibbison
BenRyle 01/Aug/11 2nd O/S
CharlotteMilner 01/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Stanners 03/Jul/11 2nd O/S

higher end VS, good route but a few polished footholds are a little annoying.

Quarryboy 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Surprisingly good climbing compared to what I was expecting. Solid gear if a little spaced and a reachy crux move.

fragglerock 29/Jun/11 Lead rpt

Typical; hmm it's getting dark. Time for one more? - route! Dispatched without drama. Only the start warrants the grade with the rest of the climbing easier and better protected.

Richard Kemble 27/Jun/11 2nd
Hidden 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Tom Brierley Gore 16/Jun/11 Lead O/S
karenhh 16/Jun/11 2nd
Mike Kiss 07/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Nice technical bottom section, plenty of gear where it's needed

with Nick Hatton
Dave Ing 03/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Andy D
andy dunn 03/Jun/11 2nd
with dave
bpmclimb 03/May/11 2nd rpt
with Helen S
Hidden 03/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/May/11 2nd O/S
Slick 19/Apr/11 Lead
with David Q
Hidden 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S
suffolknick 25/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Tricky early section with slippery.

with clams
clams 25/Mar/11 2nd
with NB
stafford101 02/Mar/11 TR
Marti999 28/Feb/11 2nd O/S
31770 ??/2011 -
fletch73 ??/2011 -
Danny Bags ??/2011 -
LisaA 28/Nov/10 Lead O/S

Haha. Got shown by Avon. So you think you can climb E1? Try cold VS! :) That's why I like climbing... you can never get too big for your boots.

with Paul
Sam1991 17/Oct/10 2nd
with Dave USMC
Sam1991 17/Oct/10 Lead β

after backing off the HVS next door, traversed in and finished up this

with Dave USMC
mark schramm 10/Oct/10 2nd
with tom m
tommoulds 10/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Schramm
Paul Bowen 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Nicola Brankley
Gaijin 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Nice lead, with a few polished holds at the bottom. 3 good bolts at the top to help setup a top rope.

Clay C 09/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Todd
TDembrey 09/Sep/10 2nd rpt
with Clay
Hidden 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
fragglerock 24/Aug/10 Lead O/S
TDembrey 05/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Steve
TDembrey 25/Jul/10 Lead rpt
with Jana
TDembrey 24/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Rob
R_W_M 24/Jul/10 Lead rpt
with Todd
Jay C 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Sam W
samwillo 26/Jun/10 AltLd
with Jay
Slick 03/Jun/10 Lead
Didymus 21/May/10 Lead rpt

First lead; seconded 17 years ago, so felt like o/s

with Nick
nick hawkins 15/May/10 2nd
with peter
Becky H ?/May/10 2nd O/S
with John Murphy, Felix
mark schramm 15/Apr/10 Lead
with si
ron244 08/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Trick start but good going and plenty protection.

mpc 08/Apr/10 2nd
Simon Allcock ?/Apr/10 2nd
with Mark
Pete Rigby ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Kelli Roberts
Tomar 09/Mar/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Feb/10 Lead O/S
R_W_M 20/Feb/10 2nd
with Eleri
hutchay ?/Jan/10 Lead O/S
with Dave Nicholl
Hidden ??/2010 -
clams ??/2010 Lead
with LM
kelliroberts3 ??/2010 2nd
richardadventurecafe 25/Oct/09 Lead O/S

bottom section sketchy.... polished, slippery, tricky, then upper section fine, easy straightfwd etc etc.

with Stevan James
Will Homoky 25/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Tom's second outdoor climb.

with Tom Whitton
crossdressingrodney 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Ruth
Hidden 26/Sep/09 2nd
Hidden 24/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Poco Loco 09/Sep/09 Lead dnf

Fell off the initial 5a crack, foot slipped of a shiny hold. Reminded me why I dont climb in this end of the Sea Walls!

Chris Sansum 07/Jun/09 Lead rpt
with Paola
paola 07/Jun/09 2nd
with Chris Sansum
mol 05/Jun/09 Lead
with Jesse
Wrighty87 05/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Can't acutally rmember the date, which is a shame. Didn't realise i ahdn't added it.

with Funky Greek - Yannis
Jesse Dufton 05/Jun/09 2nd
halfwaythere 05/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/May/09 TR rpt
Chris Sansum 25/Apr/09 Lead O/S

After the downpour!

with Gary Lewin
georgeevans88 23/Apr/09 TR O/S
with Alex
aipattison 22/Apr/09 Lead O/S
catemuir 22/Apr/09 2nd

Very polished on the start

Monk 12/Apr/09 Lead rpt
with Luke Vincent
pffft 12/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with Monkey
Ewan Richards 18/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Good route with some nice moves and excellent gear.

with Tara
ClareR 15/Mar/09 2nd β

Harder than it looked!

with Claire
Hidden 21/Feb/09 TR
Hidden ??/2009 -
Hidden 19/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/08 2nd
Hidden 23/Aug/08 2nd
sdkoutdoor 08/Aug/08 2nd
with That Guy!
ruaidh 03/Aug/08 Lead β

Slippy start, but hardly 5a. Simian next door is supposedly the same technical grade, but there's no comparison whatsoever.

with Paul
Karlos 01/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Go right at the crux onto the arete for much grippier rock

with Daniela
Hidden 21/Jul/08 TR O/S
CarolineH 26/Apr/08 Lead O/S

2nd VS, quite scary near the bottom! Needed a size 2 1/2 nut, without one it felt rather deckable.

with Neil and Dave 10
bsavage 01/Mar/08 2nd O/S
jh5638 01/Mar/08 Lead O/S
with Rob Horton
rh5980 20/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Piers and Flic
Al Franks 17/Feb/08 Solo O/S
Alasdair88 17/Feb/08 Solo rpt
bpmclimb 02/Feb/08 Lead rpt
with Clare
Monk 22/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Al Franks 04/Sep/07 Lead
Alasdair88 04/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Sam Howell
Hidden ?/Sep/07 Lead dog
Hidden 22/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Circus 13/Aug/07 Solo O/S
chiverstom 20/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Jonny
Hidden 01/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Bristoldave 25/May/07 Lead O/S
with Neil Ferguson
Hidden 20/Apr/07 2nd rpt
bpmclimb 14/Feb/07 Lead rpt
with Clare
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Oct/06 Lead O/S
Tempest 23/Sep/06 2nd

Good route, not sure I could lead through the crux at the overhang yet, need a better head for it. Did not top out but elected to ab off from the 4 bolts about 20m up the route.

with AndyM
maresia 16/Sep/06 Lead O/S
thomasadixon 09/Sep/06 Lead O/S

seriously slippery start

with Mark
Sean Bell 21/Jul/06 2nd
with rob
Hidden 14/Jun/06 2nd RP
Hidden 08/Jun/06 Solo O/S
pattisonr ?/Jun/06 -
with Matt
Tamlyn 06/May/06 Lead O/S
with Rob Slacks
beardy mike ??/2006 2nd
with Philippe Azzi
JamesColeman ??/2006 Lead rpt

Taken a fall in this before. Very polished and tough for grade.

with Alan
mwh 04/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Rachel Smith
Hidden ?/Jun/05 Solo O/S
aldred ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Russ
furry 13/Sep/04 2nd
with Neil
djking1983 05/Sep/04 Lead O/S
Marq 21/Aug/04 2nd O/S
with Daniel Dennehy
bpmclimb 09/Mar/04 Lead O/S
with Clare
Richard Hall ??/2003 Lead O/S

With that really good climber I met at Avon.

Paz 05/Oct/02 Solo O/S

Date's a bit of a guess.

Lev 28/Jul/02 Lead O/S
with Tom Elliot
Hidden 16/Apr/01 2nd
Hidden ?/Apr/00 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 -
guy xavier percival ??/1999 -
Hidden ??/1999 AltLd
chrisrogers ?/Jul/97 2nd O/S
with Steve J
DavidR 31/May/97 2nd O/S
with John Marston and Nathan Rippin
pezzerrr ??/1997 Lead O/S
mikej 18/Nov/95 Lead
with Nick Salmon
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/95 Lead
jim_randell 27/Apr/94 Lead O/S
with MB
Didymus 25/Apr/93 2nd O/S
with Chris
chris sm 07/Mar/93 TR O/S
with Martin Sime
AndySL 16/Jul/92 Lead O/S
with Mark
leland stamper 13/Oct/85 Lead
JamieAyres ?/Apr/85 TR O/S
with Phil Windall
Nigel Bond 17/Apr/83 Lead
with Charlie Leverton
Hidden ?/Sep/82 Solo O/S
tapley 03/Nov/73 Lead
with Alison Tapley
Hidden ??/1973 Lead O/S
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, JoeE, dave4430, Hidden, alexporter, mullermn, nchammer
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 61
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 64
Votes cast 45
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set