Climbing the right arete it is hard to avoid the groove at the top, at 5c

M Taylor, G Summers Apr/1966

Ticklists: Avon VSes.

AshBarnes 16/Aug Lead O/S

Lead this climb, gravy second, Jake third. Got a sweat on at the crux. Polished like glass!!

with Jake, Gravy
JGriffiths 16/Aug 2nd rpt
thompsonjr21 16/Aug 2nd O/S

POLISHED! Found the last move very difficult

danieleaston 15/Jul Lead O/S
with Steve
Steve Bartle 15/Jul 2nd O/S
KeirVonMarlon 14/Jul 2nd rpt

Wet Wet WET. Used climbing paste instead of chalk!

minty1984 14/Jul Lead rpt
Hidden 29/Jun Lead O/S
Rob Morgan 24/Jun 2nd
with Jake Griffiths, Jonathan Morgan
JGriffiths 24/Jun Lead dnf

Turned into a multi pitch. Failed to get up from the grassy ledge so Jon finished

with Rob AMC, Jon from AMC
Gustav 24/Jun 2nd O/S
with Rob, Jake AMC
Gustav 24/Jun 2nd O/S
with Rob, Jake AMC
Kemics 25/May Lead O/S

I also finished up the bore hole/crack. Climbs nicely, takes good gear and seemed like the natural line. Probably VS 4c this way? No idea where the peg was or where the climb should of gone but was fun.

with Mel
Melonfly 25/May 2nd dog

Couldn't reach the first holds. Interesting crack variation at the back... no bolts.

with Caleb
Tom Seccombe 19/May Lead O/S

finished up the bore hole

with max goodman
Hidden 04/Oct/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Sep/14 Lead
AngelaC 23/Sep/14 2nd
with Jeremy
leo-z-g 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Alex Prentice
minty1984 01/Sep/14 Lead dog

got to the ledge below the crack near the top. could not find the peg! bottles the moves so brought up my second for some encouragement. Found the peg and finished the route! easy to deck the ledge without protection high in the crack!

Alex Winter 17/Jun/14 Solo O/S
Hidden 13/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/14 2nd
Deary65 08/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Bold 2nd half of route

Richardlake 16/Mar/14 2nd O/S
will_lake 16/Mar/14 Lead O/S
pheotleyr 10/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Direct finish up the borehole, about soft HVS 5a, nice.

with Mike
Mayaculpa 10/Mar/14 2nd

Direct finish up the borehole, soft HVS 5a ?

with Peter
danimal 11/Jan/14 TR

A wet climb, bit polished

Hidden ??/2014 2nd
bpmclimb 31/Oct/13 Lead β

Finished directly up the borehole. It's the obvious line. Moves seemed about 5a. Didn't see the peg - has it fallen out? However, there are several good small wire placements in the borehole. The guidebook description is rather vague: it talks about a left-trending line past a peg, but doesn't mention the borehole. Why would one not use the borehole as a reference? It's the most obvious and distinctive feature on the upper wall.

with Clare
Puma 31/Aug/13 TR
Neil Gay 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Nikki Riches
Tom Harper 13/Aug/13 Lead O/S

nice climb. direct finish up the bore hole felt bold

tommy.henriksson78 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Djamal Berraki
stafford101 26/Jul/13 Lead dnf

Good climbing in the first part, the top is problematic to say the least though! Traversed right to finish up jumping beans after being unable to work out the crux.

George Frisby 26/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Chris
Cheese Monkey 01/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Iggy, Mike
Mayaculpa 01/Jul/13 2nd
with Iggy, Ben
squicky 01/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Nice little route. There was even a little ledge to sunbathe on higher up.

with Ben, Mike
laurence_falconer 05/Jun/13 Lead
with Jess Railton
steve_gibbs 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
laurashaw 01/Jun/13 2nd O/S
cwildblood 23/May/13 Solo O/S
tobydunford 21/May/13 Lead O/S
with Harry Martin
mikeydee135 09/May/13 2nd O/S
Mayaculpa 02/Feb/13 2nd
with Peter
pheotleyr 02/Feb/13 Lead O/S

quite good with lots of gear, just a little runout on the last steep bit. a good way of doing the top part is placing a high runner in the cracked borehole, step back, climb up 2 meters on the right past the peg without clipping and hand-traverse back left to the top of the cracked borehole, then go up. sensible belaying might keep you from hitting the ledge in case of a fall... I'll try to go up directly next time, but that didn't seem easy.

with Mike
TrevorCruse 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Malcolm
Hidden 22/Aug/12 Lead O/S
rachelvlc 10/Aug/12 TR
Hidden 17/Jun/12 Lead O/S
ncrowe 05/May/12 TR dog
Hidden 27/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Ruth ND 27/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Ian C
Red Rope Bristol 27/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Ricky Rocks 16/Oct/11 Solo O/S

Soloed the right arete, avoiding the groove. Finally commited to the last move..

Stanley 15/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Nice, can't find the peg mentioned in the guidebook though. After I climbed through the buldges I went directly up the crackline which is a little tricky.

with Bethia Manson
jon_ridley 29/Jul/11 Lead dnf

First 2/3rds very enjoyable. May have been on the 5c variant. Got dark, had a head torch but couldn't do the move so backed off to prevent ledge-induced pain. Will re-visit.

groliver26 29/Jul/11 2nd
Dave Ing 25/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Nice groove and then a good sequence on the wall section above.

BB1 25/Jul/11 2nd

It got dark quite rapidly and I could see the polish, Dave enjoyed it though :)

with Dave Ing
Quarryboy 21/Jul/11 2nd O/S

A warm up before Banshee.

Stanners 21/Jul/11 Lead O/S

vs soft 4c, polish made small footholds at the top quite troublesome. Fun little route.

Urgles 21/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Jack and Rob
j miller 02/May/11 Lead O/S

very odd ending really strange...

with andrew bangs
Andrew Bangs 02/May/11 2nd O/S
with James
Clay C 09/Feb/11 Lead rpt

Still feels hard for VS! The hand traverse across to the jug is made tricky because the hand holds are dusty, and the peg isn't going to stop you from hitting the big ledge if you slip.

with Seb
31770 ??/2011 -
fletch73 ??/2011 -
ron244 07/Oct/10 Lead β
mpc 07/Oct/10 2nd O/S
Gaijin 11/Sep/10 Lead O/S

First ever trad. lead! Hurrah!

fragglerock 30/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Clay C 27/Apr/10 Lead

First VS - found it quite hard! Brought Harry up to ledge because rope drag was too bad to carry on (climbing on a single). Then had another go at last section but got pretty pumped from all the hanging around and let Harry finish it!

with Harry A
Hidden 27/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Braintax ?/Mar/10 Lead
pyromantic ?/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Feb/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Feb/10 Lead O/S
R_W_M 20/Feb/10 2nd
with Eleri
Cornish Cream ??/2010 2nd
Phil PBC ??/2010 -
TR909 ??/2010 Lead
richardadventurecafe 25/Oct/09 TR
with Stevan James
Hidden 25/Oct/09 TR
Will Homoky 25/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Tom's first outdoor climb.

with Tom Whitton
Hidden 06/Aug/09 Solo O/S
ruaidh 04/Aug/09 Lead β

Have done this many, many times. I love it. Guidebook says go left at the top, but that misses out the best bit! I recommend, go straight up the borehole from the ledge and reach for the massive jug just to the right of the ivy. A couple of wires (2/3) will protect a broken neck ;-)

with Ben
dereke12000 26/Jul/09 TR O/S

Slippery at bottom. Top ledge a bit hairy, but rewarding.

with Aiden & Matt
richardadventurecafe 26/Jul/09 Lead

harder than expected, fairly straightforward at the bottom - enjoyable, then more challenging at the top - steep, and exciting!

with Neil Sperrings
Jonathan Storey 23/Jul/09 2nd O/S

First visit to Avon gorge, polished start but rewardingly tough, ab'ed off for top rope setup for jasper. Fair protection and polished rock (infamous for the area).

with Jamie
Hidden 19/Jul/09 2nd O/S
Monk 04/May/09 Lead rpt
with PerrinT
georgeevans88 23/Apr/09 TR O/S
with Alex
Hidden 19/Mar/09 2nd O/S
richardadventurecafe 21/Feb/09 TR

in boots - first climb for quite a while...

with Stevan James
Hidden 21/Feb/09 TR
PerrinT ??/2009 2nd
with Monkey
bsavage 20/Sep/08 2nd O/S

Nice climb but interesting finish.

with Jon
jh5638 20/Sep/08 Lead O/S

From ledge go up high enough to clip peg, traverse direct left on reasonable holds to large obvious jug, head up from there! 4b move

with Mirella Masiello
PaulWatson 02/Sep/08 2nd

Thanks to Alistair for getting us both up this after previous flunk. Loss of peg and polish on crucial holds on headwall makes this probably a 4c HVS

with Alistair, Dan
FayeG 22/Aug/08 Lead dnf

Went off to the right at 5C instead of going up the groove at 4C. Fell. Got rescued by some very nice men. Note to self: read the route before you go and don't just look at the pictures!

with Sarah Jones
sdkoutdoor 09/Aug/08 2nd
with That Guy!
Hidden 26/Jul/08 Lead
Hidden 16/Jul/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/08 TR O/S
PaulWatson 24/Jun/08 AltLd dnf

Oh dear, we both climbed comfortably to the crux, and both failed.

with Dan
Hidden ?/Jun/08 TR
mullermn 26/Apr/08 2nd O/S
with Monkey
Monk 26/Apr/08 Lead O/S

Went direct at the top. It felt much harder than VS 4b!

Chris Sansum 05/Apr/08 Lead dog

Cheated slightly before pulling onto ledge by grabbing the fixed gear to get back down to the ledge below (having pumped my arms out hanging around trying to figure out the move). Eventually did the move cleanly - but in no style! Ended up in a crawling position on the ledge! Still, made it up in the end.

with Bernard (aka crimponite123)
Hidden 03/Apr/08 TR O/S
martinazando ?/Apr/08 TR
with Paul Lydin
Hidden 02/Mar/08 Lead O/S
scorpia97 ??/2008 -
Hidden 21/Nov/07 Lead O/S
Humpty Dangler 20/Oct/07 2nd

Much more rewarding than Idleburger Buttress or Syph; despite the polish there are some good moves to be made and the rock still provides holds that work. The crux is near the top, an exercise in balance and small, progressive movements to gain a ledge.

No-chalk Nailer 20/Oct/07 Lead O/S

Didn't much like the pull past the high ledge! Good climb though!

CarolineH 05/Oct/07 2nd
with Joe
georgeevans88 ?/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Hugh
CarolineH 19/Sep/07 2nd dog
with Mark
Hidden 12/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Circus 26/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Tim Wood
Hidden 08/Jun/07 Lead O/S
deanster01 05/Jun/07 Lead O/S

Plenty of pro, polished

with Tom Ansell
Paz 24/May/07 2nd rpt
with TS2
leigh 09/Apr/07 Lead O/S

Unsure which way at ledge so clipped left at bore hole and went straight up......thank goodness for the small flake....then just brute force

with Ed
Hidden ?/Apr/07 2nd
andy mcc ?/Mar/07 Lead β
with Graham Coff
Tempest 23/Sep/06 AltLd dog

Excellent and enjoyable lead through to above the overhang (5m from the top!) stalled at the ledge bellow the pegs, not sure about the route at this point, following the guide has got to be way above VS 4b. Maybe going just right of the cracked bore hole with the peg is the answer. Andy lead through and after a struggle topped out. I dogged the remainder of the route - very frustrating.

with AndyM
chiverstom 13/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Jonny
Hidden 13/Jul/06 Solo O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/06 Solo O/S
maresia 02/Jun/06 Lead O/S
furry 12/Apr/06 2nd
maybe_si 19/Feb/06 Lead O/S

polished to buggery!!! solid 4c crux to a jug on crazy polish!

with hazel
beardy mike 12/Jan/06 Lead O/S

Direct Variation at top... HVS 5a/b?

thomasadixon ??/2006 2nd O/S
Epic Ebdon 15/May/05 2nd O/S
with Molly Thompson
mol 15/May/05 Lead
JamesColeman ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Alan
bpmclimb 24/Jul/04 Lead dog

Took a fall while reaching to clip the peg in the borehole.

with Clare
Fat Tim 14/Apr/04 Lead O/S
with Mark kauntz
Paz ?/Jan/04 Lead O/S

Tricky bit right at the top. After much deliberation, I went left.

with SN
Richard Hall ??/2003 Lead O/S

Either 2003 or 4, perhaps 5!

with Ian Hawkins
Lev 28/Jul/02 Lead O/S
with Tom Elliot
gimmer ??/2001 -
Boxy 15/Jun/00 Lead rpt
with Mick
MartinN 06/May/00 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2000 -
chrisrogers ?/Sep/97 Lead O/S
with Steve J
DavidR 18/May/97 2nd O/S
with John Marston
chris sm 04/Feb/94 Lead O/S
with Martin Sime
AndySL ??/1994 Solo O/S
Didymus 31/Jul/93 Lead O/S
with Chris
leland stamper ?/Jul/93 Solo rpt
JamieAyres ?/Apr/85 Lead
with Phil Windall
leland stamper ??/1984 Lead O/S
Steve Bell ??/1981 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, JoeE, George Frisby, Chris Homewood (Swindon MC)
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 23
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 20
Votes cast 13
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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