Finished directly up the borehole. It's the obvious line. Moves seemed about 5a. Didn't see the peg - has it fallen out? However, there are several good small wire placements in the borehole. The guidebook description is rather vague: it talks about a left-trending line past a peg, but doesn't mention the borehole. Why would one not use the borehole as a reference? It's the most obvious and distinctive feature on the upper wall. bpmclimb - Lead β - 31/Oct/13 with Clare
Puma - TR - 31/Aug/13
Neil Gay - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/13 with Nikki Riches
tommy.henriksson78 - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/13 with Djamal Berraki
Good climbing in the first part, the top is problematic to say the least though! Traversed right to finish up jumping beans after being unable to work out the crux.
stafford101 - Lead dnf - 26/Jul/13 with George Frisby
George Frisby - 2nd O/S - 26/Jul/13 with Chris
Cheese Monkey - 2nd O/S - 01/Jul/13 with Iggy, Mike
Mayaculpa - 2nd - 01/Jul/13 with Iggy, Ben
Nice little route. There was even a little ledge to sunbathe on higher up.
squicky - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/13 with Ben, Mike
laurence_falconer - Lead - 05/Jun/13 with Jess Railton
steve_gibbs - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/13
laurashaw - 2nd O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Steve Gibbs
cwildblood - Solo O/S - 23/May/13
tobydunford - Lead O/S - 21/May/13 with Harry Martin
mikeydee135 - 2nd O/S - 09/May/13
Mayaculpa - 2nd - 02/Feb/13 with Peter
quite good with lots of gear, just a little runout on the last steep bit. a good way of doing the top part is placing a high runner in the cracked borehole, step back, climb up 2 meters on the right past the peg without clipping and hand-traverse back left to the top of the cracked borehole, then go up. sensible belaying might keep you from hitting the ledge in case of a fall... I'll try to go up directly next time, but that didn't seem easy.
pheotleyr - Lead O/S - 02/Feb/13 with Mike
Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/12
rachelvlc - TR - 10/Aug/12
riff156 - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/12 with Iain Black
ncrowe - TR dog - 05/May/12
evhall - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/12 with Fletch
Ruth ND - 2nd O/S - 27/Mar/12 with Ian C
Red Rope Bristol - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/12
Soloed the right arete, avoiding the groove. Finally commited to the last move..
Rick hard Rock - Solo O/S - 16/Oct/11
Nice, can't find the peg mentioned in the guidebook though. After I climbed through the buldges I went directly up the crackline which is a little tricky.
Stanley - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/11 with Bethia Manson
First 2/3rds very enjoyable.
May have been on the 5c variant. Got dark, had a head torch but couldn't do the move so backed off to prevent ledge-induced pain. Will re-visit.
jon_ridley - Lead dnf - 29/Jul/11 with Gavin Oliver
groliver26 - 2nd - 29/Jul/11 with Jon Ridley
Nice groove and then a good sequence on the wall section above.
Dave Ing - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/11 with Bridgette
It got dark quite rapidly and I could see the polish, Dave enjoyed it though :)
BB1 - 2nd - 25/Jul/11 with Dave Ing
A warm up before Banshee.
Quarryboy - 2nd O/S - 21/Jul/11 with Rob Stanfield, Mark Davies
vs soft 4c, polish made small footholds at the top quite troublesome. Fun little route.
Stanners - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/11 with Mark Davis, Jack Bradbrook
The Pylon King - 2nd O/S - 21/Jul/11 with Jack and Rob
very odd ending really strange...
j miller - Lead O/S - 02/May/11 with andrew bangs
Andrew Bangs - 2nd O/S - 02/May/11 with James
Still feels hard for VS! The hand traverse across to the jug is made tricky because the hand holds are dusty, and the peg isn't going to stop you from hitting the big ledge if you slip.
Clay C - Lead rpt - 09/Feb/11 with Seb
31770 - 2011
fletch73 - 2011
ron244 - Lead β - 07/Oct/10 with Mike Conner
mpc - 2nd O/S - 07/Oct/10 with Ron Thomas
First ever trad. lead!
Gaijin - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/10
fragglerock - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/10 with Tom Prince
First VS - found it quite hard! Brought Harry up to ledge because rope drag was too bad to carry on (climbing on a single). Then had another go at last section but got pretty pumped from all the hanging around and let Harry finish it!
Clay C - Lead - 27/Apr/10 with Harry A
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Apr/10
Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/10
Braintax - Lead - Mar/10
pyromantic - Lead O/S - Mar/10 with Dan Bland
Caspar - Lead O/S - 21/Feb/10 with Simon Reynolds
Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Feb/10
R_W_M - 2nd - 20/Feb/10 with Eleri
Cornish Cream - 2nd - 2010
Phil PBC - 2010
TR909 - Lead - 2010
richardadventurecafe - TR - 25/Oct/09 with Stevan James
Hidden - TR - 25/Oct/09
Tom's first outdoor climb.
Will Homoky - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/09 with Tom Whitton
Hidden - Solo O/S - 06/Aug/09
Have done this many, many times. I love it. Guidebook says go left at the top, but that misses out the best bit! I recommend, go straight up the borehole from the ledge and reach for the massive jug just to the right of the ivy. A couple of wires (2/3) will protect a broken neck ;-)
ruaidh - Lead β - 04/Aug/09 with Ben
Slippery at bottom. Top ledge a bit hairy, but rewarding.
dereke12000 - TR O/S - 26/Jul/09 with Aiden & Matt
harder than expected, fairly straightforward at the bottom - enjoyable, then more challenging at the top - steep, and exciting!
richardadventurecafe - Lead - 26/Jul/09 with Neil Sperrings
First visit to Avon gorge, polished start but rewardingly tough, ab'ed off for top rope setup for jasper. Fair protection and polished rock (infamous for the area).
Jonathan Storey - 2nd O/S - 23/Jul/09 with Jamie
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Jul/09
Monk - Lead rpt - 04/May/09 with PerrinT
georgeevans88 - TR O/S - 23/Apr/09 with Alex
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Mar/09
in boots - first climb for quite a while...
richardadventurecafe - TR - 21/Feb/09 with Stevan James
Hidden - TR - 21/Feb/09
PerrinT - 2nd - 2009 with Monkey
Nice climb but interesting finish.
bsavage - 2nd O/S - 20/Sep/08 with Jon
From ledge go up high enough to clip peg, traverse direct left on reasonable holds to large obvious jug, head up from there! 4b move
jh5638 - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/08 with Mirella Masiello
Thanks to Alistair for getting us both up this after previous flunk. Loss of peg and polish on crucial holds on headwall makes this probably a 4c HVS
PaulWatson - 2nd - 02/Sep/08 with Alistair, Dan
Went off to the right at 5C instead of going up the groove at 4C. Fell. Got rescued by some very nice men. Note to self: read the route before you go and don't just look at the pictures!
FayeG - Lead dnf - 22/Aug/08 with Sarah Jones
sdkoutdoor - 2nd - 09/Aug/08 with That Guy!
Hidden - Lead - 26/Jul/08
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Jul/08
Hidden - TR O/S - 30/Jun/08
Oh dear, we both climbed comfortably to the crux, and both failed.
PaulWatson - AltLd dnf - 24/Jun/08 with Dan
Hidden - TR - Jun/08
mullermn - 2nd O/S - 26/Apr/08 with Monkey
Went direct at the top. It felt much harder than VS 4b!
Monk - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/08 with Mullermn
Cheated slightly before pulling onto ledge by grabbing the fixed gear to get back down to the ledge below (having pumped my arms out hanging around trying to figure out the move).
Eventually did the move cleanly - but in no style! Ended up in a crawling position on the ledge! Still, made it up in the end.
Chris Sansum - Lead dog - 05/Apr/08 with Bernard (aka crimponite123)
Hidden - TR O/S - 03/Apr/08
martinazando - TR - Apr/08 with Paul Lydin
Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Mar/08
scorpia97 - 2008
Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Nov/07
Much more rewarding than Idleburger Buttress or Syph; despite the polish there are some good moves to be made and the rock still provides holds that work. The crux is near the top, an exercise in balance and small, progressive movements to gain a ledge.
Humpty Dangler - 2nd - 20/Oct/07 with John Ricketts
Didn't much like the pull past the high ledge! Good climb though!
No-chalk Nailer - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/07 with Humpty Dangler
CarolineH - 2nd - 05/Oct/07 with Joe
georgeevans88 - Lead O/S - Oct/07 with Hugh
CarolineH - 2nd dog - 19/Sep/07 with Mark
evhall - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/07 with colin
Circus - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/07 with Tim Wood
Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/07
Plenty of pro, polished
deanster01 - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/07 with Tom Ansell
Paz - 2nd rpt - 24/May/07 with TS2
Unsure which way at ledge so clipped left at bore hole and went straight up......thank goodness for the small flake....then just brute force
leigh - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/07 with Ed
Hidden - 2nd - Apr/07
andy mcc - Lead β - Mar/07 with Graham Coff
Excellent and enjoyable lead through to above the overhang (5m from the top!) stalled at the ledge bellow the pegs, not sure about the route at this point, following the guide has got to be way above VS 4b. Maybe going just right of the cracked bore hole with the peg is the answer. Andy lead through and after a struggle topped out. I dogged the remainder of the route - very frustrating.
Tempest - AltLd dog - 23/Sep/06 with AndyM
chiverstom - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/06 with Jonny
Hidden - Solo O/S - 13/Jul/06
Hidden - Solo O/S - 08/Jun/06
maresia - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/06 with Frank Ramsden
furry - 2nd - 12/Apr/06
polished to buggery!!! solid 4c crux to a jug on crazy polish!
maybe_si - Lead O/S - 19/Feb/06 with hazel
Direct Variation at top... HVS 5a/b?
mike kann - Lead O/S - 12/Jan/06 with Steve Corner (SC)
thomasadixon - 2nd O/S - 2006
Epic Ebdon - 2nd O/S - 15/May/05 with Molly Thompson
mol - Lead - 15/May/05 with Tim Ebdon
JamesColeman - Lead O/S - 2005 with Alan
Took a fall while reaching to clip the peg in the borehole.
bpmclimb - Lead dog - 24/Jul/04 with Clare
Fat Tim - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/04 with Mark kauntz
Tricky bit right at the top. After much deliberation, I went left.
Paz - Lead O/S - Jan/04 with SN
Either 2003 or 4, perhaps 5!
Richard Hall - Lead O/S - 2003 with Ian Hawkins
Lev - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/02 with Tom Elliot
gimmer - 2001
Boxy - Lead rpt - 15/Jun/00 with Mick
MartinN - 2nd O/S - 06/May/00
Ally Smith - 2000
chrisrogers - Lead O/S - Sep/97 with Steve J
DavidR - 2nd O/S - 18/May/97 with John Marston
chris sm - Lead O/S - 04/Feb/94 with Martin Sime
AndySL - Solo O/S - 1994
Jon Didymus - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/93 with Chris
leland stamper - Solo rpt - Jul/93
JamieAyres - Lead - Apr/85 with Phil Windall
leland stamper - Lead O/S - 1984 with richard baynes
Hidden - 1981