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Lorraine** VS 4c

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Lorraine Variation >>
[A great day out yesterday on Dinas Mot doing the route Lorraine, 3 kb]79m, 5 pitches. For those who found The Cracks easy enough, Lorraine provides a great sister-route. 1) 15m. Follow The Cracks to ledges at 12m then belay a little higher. 2) 4c, 15m. Go up leftwards over a bulge to reach a left-slanting groove. Follow this until a step left reaches the short chimney on The Cracks. 3) 4c, 15m. Climb the slabby corner crack and a further crack to the pinnacle. 4) 4c, 18m. Surmount the pinnacle and move right onto a ledge. Climb the corner crack to good block belays. 5) 5a, 15m. As for The Cracks final pitch. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: 100 More Classic British VS Climbs, North Wales Rock Graded List.

Photo: A great day out yesterday on Dinas Mot doing the route Lorraine © www.mountaineeringjoe.co.uk
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 271 logbooks, and on 18 wishlists.

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead - 09/Jun/13

peter myers - AltLd - 08/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead - 07/Jun/13

pyb. first three pitches
kirsten - 2nd - 03/Jun/13 with Matt Stygall, Dan Vajzovic

First3pitches
Dan Vaj - 2nd O/S - 03/Jun/13 with Matthew stygall, Kirsten

adam06 - AltLd - 02/Jun/13 with Wyn Jones

peter myers - Lead - 01/Jun/13

danpyrs - 2nd - 01/Jun/13

Led p1, 3 & 5
cem - AltLd O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Pero Kalugerovich

good stuff. the infamous bit isn't as bad as bad as it sounds, highly recommended
rbharries - AltLd O/S - 01/Jun/13 with lee

Pero - AltLd O/S - 01/Jun/13

Jones_88 - AltLd - 01/Jun/13

Polished to a fine gloss. The "hard mantle" wouldn't be so hard if you couldn't see your face reflected in the holds.
Pete_Frost - AltLd O/S - 25/May/13 with Ray Sparks

Ray Sparks - AltLd O/S - 25/May/13

SimonvanDam - AltLd - 07/May/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Apr/13

tricky moves in the wet.
kwaidy - AltLd O/S - 12/Oct/12 with sting

Tricky at the top of Pitch 3 when it started raining. Topped it out after much deliberation ;)
sting - AltLd O/S - 12/Oct/12 with kwaidy

Just the narrow slab pitch as part of The Cracks - great pitch! Woven wires helped reach a greatful runner.
howlingbaboon - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/12 with Scott

Good route, the crack section was cool.
jezb1 - Lead - 27/Aug/12

Sam Cooke - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/12 with Jay Conlon, stevetheleg

Jay C - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/12 with Steve H, Sam Cooke

stevetheleg - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/12 with Jay Conlon, Sam Cooke

Sardien - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/12 with Greg Edwards

Zoomer - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/12 with Baz Whale

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/12

Johnywilks - AltLd - 22/Jul/12 with Glen Bloomer

Jake Young - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/12 with Mark R

mark20 - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/12

Daymo - AltLd O/S - 07/Jul/12 with Len Oakes

Hidden - AltLd - 07/Jul/12

Hidden - AltLd - 07/Jul/12

Hidden - Lead - 19/Jun/12

Led pitches 3 & 4 linked.
kitch22 - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/12 with John Proctor

Hidden - AltLd - 28/May/12

Hidden - AltLd - 28/May/12

Bex_M - AltLd O/S - 27/May/12 with Duncan Dunbar

angleseykayaker - AltLd O/S - 29/Apr/12 with Simon Jones, Chris Smith

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Callum Anderson - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Owen_P - 2012

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Nov/11

tedburt - AltLd O/S - 02/Oct/11 with Aaron Burdett

rained off had to ab off after pitch 3
Andy DJ - 2nd dnf - 02/Oct/11 with james walker

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Oct/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Oct/11

MoWalker3 - AltLd - 29/Sep/11 with Cormac

cool route, nice to be back on welsh rock
Bennykr - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/11 with Dome Boi

MK ran P1&2 together, and decided not to put any protection in. I chose to follow up P2 of The Cracks, because I didn't fancy a big swing across the slab if I came off. I did P3; MK p4; me P5.
smolders - AltLd O/S - 25/Sep/11 with Marianne K

Led P1 and P2 as one as I went slightly off-route on P2 and needless to say, couldn't find any gear. Virtually soloed it until I reached the short chimney. Martin had to climb part of The Cracks to avoid taking a swing that would have made him land on the other side of the nose. Led P4, with gear this time. Martin led P3 and P5.
mariannekhoo - AltLd O/S - 25/Sep/11 with Martin Oldham

Slightly wet and windy made this more sketchy
Teddys15 - AltLd - 14/Sep/11 with Sam Thame

v.nice
pastep - AltLd - 02/Sep/11 with Woody, ebf

second 1st pitch ... weather to bad all 3 of us had to ab off leaving a sling - pretty much a waterfall!
Viki - 2nd dnf - 21/Aug/11 with Jonny Nick

Climbed and back down in under 30 mins.
Tom Livingstone - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/11 with Jez

Did the whole route in about half an hour. Great fun climbing quickly.
JezH - AltLd - 17/Aug/11 with Tom Livingstone

Thought it was the cracks HS at the time! I led 1st, 3rd and 5th pitches James 2nd and 4th Nice bouldery crux on p5 but good protection available
harryjan - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/11 with James Powell

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/11

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/11

marcushorgan - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/11 with Will Grayson

Tiinster - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/11 with Lee

Sophie Nunn - AltLd rpt - 23/Jul/11 with Pete S

another great climb.
Frank Blakeley - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/11 with Lee, Simon

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/11

Hidden - AltLd β - 02/Jul/11

Simon Cahill - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/11 with Frank Blakely, Lee Paskin

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Jun/11

1906johns - 2nd O/S - 22/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/11

Hidden - AltLd - 04/Jun/11

led P1,3 and 5.got a bad little romp. 2 pitch seemed very runout
stvredmond - AltLd - 04/Jun/11 with Sean mercer

brockers - AltLd - 03/Jun/11 with Maggie Bass

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Jun/11

tjmillen - AltLd - Jun/11 with simon hall

the 40mph winds added another dimension
Ollie B - AltLd O/S - 01/May/11 with S.Bennett

Clarky10 - AltLd O/S - May/11 with Ben Matthews

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Apr/11

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Apr/11

The Bad Cough - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/11 with Michael Clayton

mike_clayton - AltLd dog - 22/Apr/11 with paul cubbins

bsmedz - 2011 with Ben Westwood

Hidden - 2011

evs91 - Lead O/S - 2011

David Smith - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

vertically_challenged - Lead - 2011

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2011

PaulHermes - 2011

mwatson - 2011

djromberg - 2011

webbe01 - AltLd O/S - 10/Oct/10 with Sam Clarke

clipskipper - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/10 with John Orr

Hidden - AltLd - 30/Aug/10

fizzychewitt - AltLd - 21/Aug/10 with Ali

easy
Luke Dawson - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/10

I led the first three pitches in one, Chris led the top two in one. Nice climbing
bigbobbyking - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/10 with Chris Bull

Katex - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/10 with Simon Edwards

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/10

djking1983 - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/10 with Andy Smith

KevB - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/10 with Chris W

stuart34 - 2nd - 22/Jun/10 with simon white

pitch 1, pitch 3, pitch 5. assume the 'height dependent' comment for pitch 5 was the guidebook writers having a little joke, it isnt at all.
pebbles - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/10

Andrew Lester - AltLd O/S - 17/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/10

stuart34 - 2nd - 15/Jun/10 with tim ashlin

stoned - AltLd - 05/Jun/10

krusty23 - Lead - Jun/10 with Iwan Jones

Lawrie Brand - AltLd O/S - 30/May/10 with Phil, Mike

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/May/10

tomhull - AltLd O/S - 24/May/10 with matt harris

Andrew.Davies - AltLd O/S - 23/May/10 with phil, Matty

PaulHarris - AltLd - 21/May/10 with John, Simon, Micheal

PaulHarris - AltLd - 21/May/10

hedgehog77 - AltLd O/S - 20/May/10

Led P1,3,5
Neil D - AltLd O/S - 02/May/10 with Boriz Korzh

Led P2 and P4. Great route.
BorisVBlade - AltLd O/S - 02/May/10 with Neil Dowse

Owain Llewelyn - Lead - May/10 with Steve

First pitch of The Cracks then rest of this.
steev - AltLd O/S - 22/Apr/10 with Gaz

Pitch 3
vincentvega - AltLd - 18/Apr/10 with danny robb

Led P1,3&5. Nice to finish the route off, unlike last time, when it started raining!
Ken Applegate - AltLd - 09/Apr/10 with Hannah Evans

grady - Lead O/S - Apr/10

Tomprusk - AltLd O/S - 28/Mar/10 with Nick

It was bloody cold up there.
Nick Nitro - AltLd O/S - 28/Mar/10 with Tom Parker

Hidden - 2010

RHarding - 2010

DuckingFesperate - Lead - 2010

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - 2010

sionjosh - 2010

mcgrathr - 2010

A huge turd on the 3rd belay of The Cracks. Funking Bar Stewards!!! :@ :@
El3ctroFuzz - AltLd O/S - 01/Oct/09 with Kris Saunders

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/09

mikeshewring - AltLd O/S - 24/Sep/09

Think i did pitch 1 of the direct then the rest of this and the cracks
Alex Mason - Solo O/S - 23/Sep/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/09

adamscottthomas - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/09 with Ellen Taylor

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/09

mike kann - AltLd O/S - Sep/09 with Matt Bengy

Got as far as Pitch 3, before rain stopped play.
Ken Applegate - AltLd dnf - 12/Aug/09 with Alex Wheldon

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/09

Led P1 and P3. P4 is excellent. Nice way to conclude our week in Wales.
Brendan - AltLd O/S - 18/Jul/09 with Paul

matjaques - AltLd - Jul/09 with Moony

Barry D - AltLd - 28/Jun/09 with Trish & Seth

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Jun/09

Led P2 & P4
Adam1973 - AltLd O/S - 30/May/09 with Alex

Led P4 (after Graeme ran pitches 1-3 together). Some nice, varied climbing, but the crux is definitely the 5a move in common with The Cracks. Nasty.
victim of mathematics - AltLd O/S - 30/May/09 with Graeme

chadrads - AltLd O/S - 30/May/09 with andy chapman

A Crook - AltLd O/S - 25/May/09 with Ray Lindley

Hidden - AltLd - 02/May/09

Hidden - AltLd - May/09

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Apr/09

Julie Carroll - Lead rpt - 17/Apr/09 with Steve Rivers

Ben1983 - AltLd O/S - 11/Apr/09

Sophie Nunn - AltLd - 05/Apr/09

Kyle Rance - AltLd - 02/Apr/09 with Jurgen Dissmann

keith leonard - Lead - 2009

Sally Lisle - 2009

Hidden - 2009

Gibson27 - Lead O/S - 2009

MD - AltLd - 27/Sep/08 with Paul H

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Sep/08

Great route!
MikeLell - 2nd - 30/Aug/08 with Tim Steward

RCrockford - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/08 with Andy G

HIGHTOWER - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/08 with Dave Gleave

Did not finish Abseiled off on 3rd pitch after a tricky leftward traverse to escape during heavy rain!
jamie ward - AltLd dnf - 14/Aug/08 with Stuart Williams

Led P3 and 5
liz77 - AltLd - 27/Jul/08 with HRC

Again amazing climbing just loved every minute!!!
SamStokes - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/08 with Ben Matthews

Run first two pitches into one.If your doing second pitch make sure you have some small wires with you.
ritchierich - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/08 with Steve Joynson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/08

crag_monster - AltLd - Jul/08

crag_monster - Lead - Jul/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/08

Pitch 2 is quite bold, but you can stitch up the rest.
Joss - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/08 with Mike Williams

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Jun/08

hazatgym - 2nd - 15/Jun/08 with Joe Herbert

fennerz - AltLd O/S - 14/Jun/08 with Angus Kille

a nicer version of 'the cracks'
anguskille - AltLd O/S - 14/Jun/08 with Tom Fenwick

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/08

used parts of the cracks on pitch 2+4
michael burrows - AltLd - 08/Jun/08 with ian r and ian a

Sarah Black - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/08 with Paul Black

RichardMc - AltLd - 08/Jun/08 with Tony Williams

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Jun/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/08

tumbling wizard - Jun/08

TimPerkin - Lead O/S - 23/May/08 with Richard Harris

garythomas - AltLd dnf - May/08 with Nic Koyama

Hidden - AltLd O/S - May/08

Hidden - AltLd - May/08

Started climbing at 8 in the evening, it was dusky then, after the first pitch it was pitch black - head torch climbing up wet rock and greasy rock lol
sonnenstern - AltLd O/S - 03/Apr/08 with Kieran King, Mike Goldthorpe

in the dark on damp rock!spicy one!
kieranrex - Lead - 02/Apr/08 with Mike Goldthorp

3rd pitch
Mike Goldthorp - AltLd O/S - Apr/08 with Kieran King, Sophie Wilmes

3rd pitch done, instead of the cracks 4th pitch. Extremely cold by this point.. (still hailing)! Abbed off to the right down the descent gully.
nicki_2712 - 2nd dnf - 21/Mar/08 with Al Franks

Pitch 3 only
Alasdair88 - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/08 with Nicki

Matt Vigg - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Al Evans - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - AltLd - 2008

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Oct/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Oct/07

Lead 2nd pitch.
will6459 - AltLd O/S - Oct/07 with Andy Hext, Gareth Watkins

Tom Thorne - AltLd O/S - 24/Sep/07 with Hamish Dunn

Led Ps 1,3,5.
Andy Clarke - AltLd O/S - 09/Sep/07 with Rob

rob1 - AltLd - 09/Sep/07 with andrew clark

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/07

Lead 1st pitch
vet - 2nd - 27/Jul/07 with Helen

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Jun/07

P3 only instead of The cracks P4.
HamishD - Lead O/S - 26/May/07 with Tom Thorne

MikeT - AltLd O/S - Apr/07 with MO

Hidden - 2nd - 2007

sammoore - AltLd O/S - 2007 with Will Sutcliffe

timmy-ts - 2007

richardr - Jul/06

Sandy P - Lead - Jul/06 with Joel Barker

Hidden - AltLd - Apr/06

Ian McNeill - 2006

Hidden - 2006

Hidden - 2006

Hidden - 2006

sammoore - AltLd O/S - 2006 with Will Sutcliffe

Was going to do the cracks but wandered onto this one I think when avoiding other climbers.
TobyA - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/05 with Matthew Higginson

Julie Carroll - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/05 with Malcolm Dyson

Hidden - AltLd - 14/Jun/05

Hidden - Lead - Jun/05

climbtim - Lead - 10/Jul/04

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/May/04

jamie ward - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/03 with John Howes

Marq - AltLd O/S - 03/Aug/03 with Daniel Dennehy

spidey - Lead RP - 11/Jul/03

Lead pitches 1, 4 and 5
Alaric - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/03 with Chris A

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2002

Hidden - 2002

fenn123 - 2001

marcoleptic - Lead O/S - 2000 with Moley

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/99

JiveWeasel - Lead - 08/Aug/98 with Mrs Weasel

Hammy - Lead - 30/May/98 with Richard Munro

zero six - Lead O/S - 1998

Chris Ellis - AltLd O/S - 30/May/97 with Louise Pellett

John Pickles - AltLd O/S - 24/May/97 with Dave Elliot

Ched - Lead O/S - 1997 with Glanfor

rurp - Lead - 1995

Led 1,2&4
Iain Thow - AltLd - 12/Aug/91 with Rob Ivens

Hidden - AltLd - 24/Mar/91

DaveHo - Lead O/S - 1990

Hidden - AltLd - 1990

Hidden - AltLd - 12/Jul/88

andy gittins - 1988

babymoac - AltLd - 11/Sep/86 with Rich Reeder

rogerskews - AltLd - 1985 with Martin Coward

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Jul/80

Nic Robinson - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/77 with Paul Greenland

Ian Jones - AltLd O/S - 1976 with Billy Jones, Chris Newton, Mike Nnewton

climbed in 1970's
ill_bill - Lead - 1975

Andy Say - Lead - 1974

Nigel Bond - Lead - 08/Sep/73 with Bob Panther

RichardMc - AltLd - 07/Sep/73 with Pete Stokes

Tom V - 1972 with John Bossingham

pneame - 1972

'Technically interesting'
Gordon Stainforth - AltLd - 24/Aug/68 with John Stainforth

Dick lost the way and ended up on the Direct variation which was excellent climbing but not much gear!
Sean Kelly - AltLd - Jun/68 with Dick Curtis

Pat Higson and Pete Williams, nice route the top of the Cracks is still the crux.
oldmanofmow - Lead - 14/Apr/61

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
ashsleight, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Daymo, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, highfivekrissy, Hidden, Terrance Glancy, Ander, Hidden, Whatlarks, Gareth_Thomas, Hidden, steve mee, Martyn

Voting
Total votes cast 128
hard HVS0 of 44
HVS0 of 44
easy HVS0 of 44
hard VS3 of 44
VS40 of 44
easy VS1 of 44
hard HS0 of 44
HS0 of 44
easy HS0 of 44
hard 5a0 of 44
5a0 of 44
easy 5a1 of 44
hard 4c12 of 44
4c28 of 44
easy 4c3 of 44
hard 4b0 of 44
4b0 of 44
easy 4b0 of 44
3 Stars12 of 40
2 Stars25 of 40
1 Star3 of 40
0 Stars0 of 40
Bag of .....0 of 40
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 271 (0.4%)
Lead45 of 271 (16.6%)
Followed15 of 271 (5.5%)
Alt Leads168 of 271 (62.0%)
Unknown42 of 271 (15.5%)

'Climbed'130 of 271 (48.0%)
clean O/S130 of 271 (48.0%)
clean β1 of 271 (0.4%)
clean rpt2 of 271 (0.7%)
clean RP1 of 271 (0.4%)
dogged1 of 271 (0.4%)
dnf6 of 271 (2.2%)