Lorraine Variation** HVS 5a
[At the top of Lorraine Variation, 1 kb]

Rockfax Description
A cracking variation giving a long 40m pitch. From the first belay of Lorraine, go leftwards over the bulge as for the original, and then make a delicate sequence of moves up some pockets to gain the slab and a good wire in a crack. Move up and left towards a flake that leads you all the way to the big ledge and pinnacle belay at the end of P3 of the original.
FA . D.Alcock, C.Davies 7.6.1965 © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List.

Photo: At the top of Lorraine Variation © robin heath
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This climb is in 174 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

Led the middle pitch - good fun. Joe worked the top pitch of GBH which we followed cleanly.
Pete_Frost - AltLd O/S - 28/Sep/15 with Simon Davidson, Climbing Joe from Anglesey

Robb Bert - AltLd - 08/Aug/15

Mr Tickle - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/15 with Dan2

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/15

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/15

easy but spaced gear
benkelsey - 2nd O/S - 24/Jun/15 with Dawn_K_B, Shaun Humphreys

Led this pitch, was ace! Varied climbing from slab to crack, reasonably run out but not horrendous. Got it done just before the rain came in!
Dawn_K_B - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/15 with Shaun Humphreys, Ben Kelsey

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/15

jimmatthews - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/15 with Ally Hurst

With Matt, who led opening pitch & also led top 2 pitches of The Cracks together, leaving me the best bit (long,little bit run-out, bold & balancy). Excellent route
buxtoncoffeelover - Lead - 15/Jun/15

very bold and bit daring in strongish winds but some great moves.
sparkybatteryboy - Lead - 11/Jun/15 with sorcha gilbert dillon

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/15

Led p2 Noemie jammed friend in crack.... Nightmare, had to use a massive rock to remove
AGoodi - AltLd O/S - 23/May/15 with Ben Goodill, Noemie Perret

BenG32 - AltLd O/S - 23/May/15 with Noemie, Amy Goodill

noemie5438 - AltLd O/S - 23/May/15 with Ben, Amy Goodill

In the pissing rain. Led main (40m) pitch.
Dan724 - AltLd O/S - 02/Apr/15 with Ian Grabowski

Lorraine was polished, thankfully the crux pitch was not and it was sustained throughout
dashby - 2nd - 15/Mar/15 with Dave Prime

Hidden - 2015

Hidden - 17/Sep/14

sgl - AltLd - 17/Sep/14 with will

good pitch. felt a little bold.
JamesWilliams - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/14 with Adam Revill, jamesA

Nice Route
adamre12 - 2nd O/S - 07/Sep/14 with James Ayres, JamesWilliams

Hidden - AltLd - 07/Sep/14

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Sep/14

Chriswallis2 - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/14 with Joe Anglesey

Hidden - 21/Jul/14

really nice climb, a little bit airy but awesome
Josiemc - Lead O/S - Jul/14 with John Orr

Dave Almond - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/14 with Nicole Almond

Great climb, interesting moves but always positive gear.
Nicole Almond - AltLd - 29/Jun/14 with Dad

Nice. Found the corner crack pitch the trickiest.
shed_hed - Solo O/S - 23/Jun/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/14

P 1 and 3, ran the last 2 pitches of The Cracks together.
Goodstuff - AltLd O/S - 17/Jun/14 with WillDoyle

Luke Brooks - AltLd O/S - 15/Jun/14 with Delyth

paul led the rest of Lorriane. quality climbing with good gear (occasionally spacey)
lithos - AltLd - 14/Jun/14 with cookie

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/May/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/14

Lovely climbing with just the right amount of gear.
ianstevens - AltLd O/S - 12/Apr/14 with Mike Stuart

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Apr/14

Si - 2014

Allanfairfechan - 2014

adie84 - 2014

adie84 - 2014

mileshill540 - Lead - 2014

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Nov/13

A tad bold, but pretty much right on for the grade
partz - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/13 with Josh Robinson

Decided on rather sketchy looking crackline above pointed flake for pitch 3 which turned out to be p3 of GBH (guidebook was in bag below). One rest at crux required - first E2 pitch and it felt like it!
sebbo - AltLd dog - 22/Jul/13 with Grant Brown

Great moves on dish-like holds. Nice runout on the HVS pitch, but great gear and even better friction, so can't complain!
cbeard - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/13 with Jonny Hawkins

greenclimb - Lead rpt - 14/Jul/13 with Gill

JulesV - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/13 with Shauna Cunningham

Hidden - Lead - 25/Jun/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/13

John Nuttall - Lead - 25/Jun/13 with Natty

Middle pitch was bold, tricky moves well above gear.
Laurence Cowton - AltLd - 25/Jun/13 with Howie

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/13

fizzychewitt - Lead - 02/Jun/13 with Jayne

Hidden - Jun/13

tim20 - 2013

herrettscott - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/12 with Neil Mc

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/12

helenstuart - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/12 with Mike

I'm assuming that this is the same as the 'Lorraine Direct' as shown (but badly described) in the Ground-Up book. Good climbing on sound rock. The middle bit (the bit that's different to 'Lorraine' can be done in one very long pitch up to the top of C4 of The Cracks. Never too hard, but at times the space between good gear can be more than some people will be confortable with. Ecellent route, though.
djones66 - AltLd - 11/Aug/12 with Stve mc D

Jake Young - 2nd O/S - 21/Jul/12 with Mark R

60m pitch
mark20 - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/12

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 26/May/12

John Nuttall - AltLd - 26/May/12 with Mark

Brilliant climbing. slab climbing brilliant rock and then crack climbing and a hard bouldery crux on the last pitch. Led first and 3rd pitch. worth linking up the pitches instead.
charlietorrance - AltLd O/S - 24/May/12 with Gwen

Bold, sustained and excellent.
victim of mathematics - Lead O/S - 21/May/12 with James Oswald

Really good. Great bold climbing above solid gear
James Oswald - AltLd O/S - 21/May/12 with Colin Angus

Hidden - 02/May/12

Lorraine into Lorraine Direct. Lead the 5a crux pitch. Really enjoyable delicate climbing.
jezb1 - AltLd - 02/May/12

Hidden - Mar/12

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

chrisallan - AltLd O/S - 14/Oct/11

Hidden - Sep/11

Al did the Crux Pitch, I loved the Slabby bit P2. I led the 'awkward mantel-shelf' bit at the top which felt tough. Great climb.
puppythedog - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/11 with Al

Adam1973 - AltLd rpt - 24/Jul/11 with Ann S

Brill delicate slabs and thuggy corner crack.
Ann S - 2nd - 24/Jul/11 with Adam

Lead pitch 2. First route in the pass and excellent climbing with spaced gear.
BeccaSnowden - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/11 with Tom

Very good climb. Surprised at how tough the top pitch was given it's part of an HS!
thomasadixon - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/11 with Becca

With the rest of Lorraine
Lawrie Brand - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/11 with Joe

gw3285 - AltLd - 10/Jul/11

Laurence Everitt - 2nd O/S - 02/Jul/11 with neil mackie

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/11

david morse - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/11 with lole

Smelly Fox - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/11 with Steve Addy

hedgehog77 - AltLd - 02/May/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/11

I led p1& 4 of Lorraine. JN did Lorraine Direct (37m, 5a, (N.Wales Rock, Ground Up 2006), which brings you to the bottom of p4. Jn did the final mantelshelf pitch of the Cracks to finish.
Pete Nugent - AltLd - 20/Apr/11 with John Nuttall

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/11

Lead 1st, 3rd and 4th pitches
BorisVBlade - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/11 with Sam Davies

Did the hard variation, bit harder and bolder.(seconded mantle move one handed on final pitch)
sam820 - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/11 with Boris Korzh

Climbed with Ruth. Started for Cracks (intended route) then onto this having linked pitches 1 & 2. Fell on the crux having climbed too far above the crack. Climbed clean on 2nd attempt to belay beneath Trauma. Ruth led last pitch. Great route gutted at the fall (first lead fall)!
monkeyboyraw - AltLd dog - 10/Apr/11

Neil D - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/11 with Beth Hodgett

Betha. - 2nd O/S - 10/Apr/11 with Neil D

Rory Shaw - 2011

uphillnow - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

PAJames - 2011

PAJames - 2011

alasdair19 - 2011

djromberg - 2011

Sankey - AltLd - 03/Sep/10 with Luke

Stayed too far right, so not in the cracks, in the groove instead. Awesome climbing, more like E1 if you're not in then cracks.
smallerrich - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/10 with Will Nicholls

dan gibson - Solo O/S - 21/Jul/10

RHarding - 2nd O/S - Jun/10 with Matt Reynolds

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/May/10

soph - AltLd O/S - May/10 with Carl Reilly

robin heath - AltLd O/S - 2010 with Tom Wild

Hidden - 2010

mcgrathr - 2010

First day at uni.
Alex Mason - Solo O/S - 18/Sep/09

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Sep/09

awesome climb, fairly bold climb, definitely one of the best hvs leads that ive done
Bill Lawrence - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/09 with andy gravestock

Stu led first pitch then took the variation 5a until running out of gear just below the crack on the arete! I followed up to here then led to top. Jamming cracks were superb and mantle was amazing, one of the more varied and intersting routes i've been on, reccommend
snakebite - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/09 with Stuart Masterman

Hidden - Lead - 16/Aug/09

sinbad - 2nd - 16/Aug/09 with Mike Raine

First pitch gained via 'The Cracks' HS Variation was pitch 2 - great climb, really pockety interesting holds! So much within one pitch!
Helen23 - 2nd - 06/Aug/09 with Plas y Brenin (Dave Evans)

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Aug/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Aug/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/09

Al Franks - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/09 with Claire

Alasdair88 - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/09 with Claire

cy - 2nd - 16/Jun/09 with Al

Seconded the main pitch. Very good climbing.
Kirill - AltLd O/S - 13/Jun/09 with Charles Moreton

Led crux pitch
cem - AltLd O/S - 13/Jun/09 with Kirill Spiridonov

matjaques - AltLd - Jun/09 with Moony

Led variation. Superb *** pitch.
Adam1973 - AltLd O/S - 31/May/09 with Alex

Lovely climb. Did as part of PYB crack climbing course. Two crack pitches (I ledthe 1st, 2nd 4th pitches - Alison the 3rd, and 5th (mantleshelf) pitches). Leading the second crack pitch was brilliant. perfect gear, scary crack with nothing but jams for hands (a bit of a bridge for feet though. Mantleshelf finish a bit interesting!
climbingrev - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/09 with Alison ?

Hidden - AltLd - Apr/09

Greg Pittam - AltLd O/S - 27/Sep/08 with Kate Keltie

I led the first pitch (HS). It was really quite easy but didn't have much gear. I was pleased with my belay station - the first one where I really had to think and back up two dodgy slings with nuts - or vise versa! I dropped Greg's nuts but fortunately none were lost and a good lesson was learnt. Kate then led a very technical HVS pitch, which was hard but satisfying. Had some beta from Greg about a rock-over. Them Greg led the last two pitches (HS). There was a horrible crack to start - not nice at all and a bit scary. The last bit was a very awkward boulder problem! We all got very cold and looked longingly at the other side of the valley where other climbers (including Matty!) were backing in the sun - "too hot", apparently.
ClareR - AltLd O/S - 27/Sep/08 with Greg and Kate

Felt farly damp and greasy due to rain. Led the direct pitch (2) and the mantle topout. Really nice boldish climbing. one move from the belay on easy ground i had a thought.. i should place some gear as otherwise i could have a big fall. stopped concentrating and my foot popped. grabbed cam. :( annoying as the bt i was on was like 4a climbing.
Mattyk - AltLd - 28/Aug/08 with Dom and Jude

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/08

Hjort - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/08 with William Malcolm

Sgt. Vest - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/08 with toby vye

irish paul - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/08 with Sarah Joyce

Sarah Black - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/08

Carly - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/08 with Richard

Hidden - Lead - May/08

Hidden - 2nd - Apr/08

Hidden - AltLd - Apr/08

barni - AltLd - 2008 with Liam fleming

tumbling wizard - 2008

tumbling wizard - 2008

ritchierich - AltLd O/S - 13/Apr/07 with Bob Dickson

Rob Kennard - 2007

Hidden - Lead - 2007

Hidden - Jun/06

Ian McNeill - 2006

a_radiohead_fan - 2005

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/02

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/00

Ched - Lead O/S - 1997 with Glanfor

rurp - Lead - 1995

Good alternate start on right-hand of the Cracks. Still got stuck behind a queue on second pitch! Lead this and mantelshelf pitch
Scott McRae - AltLd O/S - 28/May/94 with Steve Jones

rob.grafton - 1993 with tony howard, Matthew Bransby, chris pugh

WB - AltLd O/S - 1992

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Sep/90

Hidden - Lead - 1985

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - Lead - May/84 with Andy Heald

Hidden - AltLd - 1981

mikej - Lead - 19/Aug/80 with Tony Waite

GeoffG - AltLd - 07/May/77

Tom V - 1973

mikej - AltLd - 07/Sep/68 with Wil Hurford

Got lost so felt this was a direct start
Sean Kelly - Jun/68 with Dick Curtis

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Michael Hood, jonnyridleylogan

Total votes cast 110
hard E10 of 38
E10 of 38
easy E11 of 38
hard HVS17 of 38
HVS19 of 38
easy HVS1 of 38
hard VS0 of 38
VS0 of 38
easy VS0 of 38
hard 5b0 of 36
5b0 of 36
easy 5b0 of 36
hard 5a17 of 36
5a19 of 36
easy 5a0 of 36
hard 4c0 of 36
4c0 of 36
easy 4c0 of 36
3 Stars14 of 36
2 Stars20 of 36
1 Star2 of 36
0 Stars0 of 36
Bag of .....0 of 36
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