Zeta** E3 6a
[The desperate crux move on Zeta's top pitch., 3 kb]

Rockfax Description
An excellent thin slab climb with a desperate steep finish.
1) 4b, 30m. As for Super Direct.
2) 5c, 15m. Follow Diagonal to a good nut slot then pull up and slightly right to gain the Diagonal belay.
3) 5b, 20m. Climb cracks and a flake to a ledge and a belay on ledges on the right.
4) 6a, 18m. Climb the steep arete above (small wires) and enter the V-groove from either side. This leads to the top. © ROCKFAX

Photo: The desperate crux move on Zeta's top pitch. © richard kirby
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This climb is in 48 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

Didnt do last pitch as thought we were on superdirect so will be hading back to do it
Michael Allday - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/13

Hard move at the top with no gear that would stop you from hitting the ledge below. The peg is but a memory.
JulesV - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/13 with Shauna Cunningham

First and last pitches. I found leading the crux on the last pitch pretty darn worrying (a fall would have meant slamming into the ledges below)and the move was a bit of a puzzle. Got it in the end, which felt awesome! There is no peg anymore.
dswansonlow - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/13 with Darren McMaster

Cool climbing, middle pitches felt very similar to slate climbing and then the top pitch was tricky to work out. I opted for pulling hard rather than hanging around to try and work it out properly! Took the middle took pitches in one.
shed_hed - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/13 with Dougie Swanson-Low

Geoff lead the 5c pitch. I was horrified to realise I lead this sans chalk and sticky rubber with a 20' runout in 1976 and very nearly came off. Failed on top pitch although it was windy and going dark.
Derek Ryden - AltLd dnf - 08/Jul/13 with Geoff Bennett

Nick Biven - 2013

richpickford - 2013

Luke Brooks - AltLd O/S - 27/Sep/11 with Liam

Did the top pitch, was awwwwwesome cool!
Mike Goldthorp - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/09 with Jono Hughes

Seymore Butt - 2009

Al Evans - 2008

Rob Kennard - 2007

Hidden - 2007

Mint climbing, on-siting the last pitch was fab cause only had RP's to protect which never inspire a whole lot of confidence!
Ed Booth - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/06 with will sim

Ian McNeill - 2006

Lead 1st and 3rd.
Ched - AltLd - 1997 with Grant Farqhuar

rob.grafton - AltLd dnf - 13/Aug/95 with Bruce

Finished up last pitch of super-indirect in the end after we both failed to do the top pitch - 6a move not well protected
steveb2006 - AltLd dnf - 24/Jun/95 with Mike Pycroft

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Jun/94

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Jun/93

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - AltLd O/S - May/92 with Paul Kallmes

mark-abz - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/91 with Andy W

I led the main pitch...it felt really really necky!! Pegs rusted to stubs and eyeless/untie-off-able. RP's only from memory ...straight on to belay seemingly a long way below.
Rich Kirby - AltLd O/S - Jul/90 with Will (S. Williamson)

andy gittins - 1988

Hidden - 2nd - 24/May/87

Hidden - Lead - 1987

shark - AltLd O/S - Aug/86 with Duncan & Pete

Hidden - Solo - Jul/85

Hidden - 1985

sadams - Lead - 24/Aug/84 with Chris Thwaites

jasper11 - 1984

Gezzer - AltLd O/S - 1983 with Steve Burns

Ivan Machin - 22/Aug/82 with Jon Mellor

Hidden - Lead - 06/Jun/82

Climbed with Nick, fellow student. Remember being inspired to lead it by Buzz Jones telling me there was a hidden 'keyhole' wire at knee height as you stepped across slab, might have been a rock 1, could even have been a Chouinard 1!
steveboote - Lead - 1982

redjerry - Lead O/S - May/81 with Roy Williamson

Hidden - Lead - 1981

Mark Kemball - 06/Jul/80 with John Jefferies

Hidden - Lead - 1980

Steve Bell - 1979

Mike Owen - 28/Aug/78 with Elaine Watson

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Aug/78

Ian Jones - 2nd β - 1978 with David Greenald, Dave Cowans

Seemed straightforward, pleased to find it E3!
petemeads - AltLd - 1977

A peg for aid was standard on the last pitch
Derek Ryden - AltLd O/S - Sep/76 with Tom Barbour

steve L - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/76 with Phil Thomas, sharpie

1 point of aid as was traditional then. Quite wet after heavy rain all day.
Sean Kelly - 2nd - Jul/76 with Bob Millward

Nigel Bond - AltLd - 27/Jul/75 with Dave Humphries

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
fennerz, datoon

Total votes cast 32
hard E40 of 11
E41 of 11
easy E40 of 11
hard E33 of 11
E36 of 11
easy E31 of 11
hard E20 of 11
E20 of 11
easy E20 of 11
hard 6b0 of 11
6b0 of 11
easy 6b0 of 11
hard 6a3 of 11
6a8 of 11
easy 6a0 of 11
hard 5c0 of 11
5c0 of 11
easy 5c0 of 11
3 Stars1 of 10
2 Stars7 of 10
1 Star2 of 10
0 Stars0 of 10
Bag of .....0 of 10
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