Stairway to Heaven** E3 5c

Rockfax Description
A good route with a fierce pull on pitch two, and a tricky groove on the last. Start below and just left of the large scoop with a corner-crack at its back.
1) 4c, 20m. From a weakness in the initial roof, climb directly up to a block belay, below the left wall of the scoop/corner.
2) 5c, 16m. Ascend into the scoop for 3m and arrange some gear. Traverse out left to below a blunt arete. Thin and very bold moves up this soon lead to easier climbing and a traverse left along the break of Diagonal to its belay in a small crack.
3) 5b, 16m. Move back right along the traverse and climb the first thin crack, trending right at the top to a belay ledge.
4) 5c, 18m. The middle of three grooves provides a problematic finale to this route. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Alex's Wales ticklist.

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This climb is in 35 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead dnf - 17/Aug/15

breed - AltLd O/S - 10/Jul/15

1st and 3rd
Ewan Russell - AltLd O/S - 10/Jul/15 with Brad

jamestaylor92 - AltLd O/S - 15/May/15 with Neils

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/May/15

Very bold for the leader to move out onto the nose. We did a mix of routes, with P3 of diagonal and P4 a mix between Western Rib and Sunset Edge
Sardien - 2nd β - 22/Jul/14 with Andy Scott

Good route. By the way the top pitch is absolutely climbable. Its green from below, but the holds are clean enough and its possibly the best pitch and a nice change from the padding below. Good wires too (small and micro). It had only been dry for a day and it had a couple of damp holds in the crack which made no difference so no need for a long dry spell to do it.
tim newton - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/14 with mike grant

Hidden - 2014

I made several regrettable decisions on this. The first was to lead the first 3 pitches in one. It was great fun but there was substantial drag, I wouldn't recommend it... The next was to put no gear on the traverses to reduce how much drag there'd be. Lastly by making the pitch so long and draggy I couldn't hear or feel that I wasn't taking in enough rope for Andrew while he was seconding. All this meant that he took a loooooong fall and swing. Doh. Last pitch was green so did superdirect to the top.
dswansonlow - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/13 with Andrew Cherry

AndrewJamesCherry - 2nd - 22/Sep/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/13

Led p1, p3 and finished up the last pitch of Diagonal as p4 has gone back to nature. Also no sign of the peg in the description. Glad I didnt have to lead p2...
david morse - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/13 with chris todd

P1&3 last pitch of Diagonal rather than green groove. Bold P2 and average gear on P3. Good route
wi11 - AltLd O/S - 10/Jul/13 with Ben

1st and 2nd pitches linked but continued up instead of traversing to nose belay.
Speeddemonsi - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/13

Owain Llewelyn - AltLd - 17/Jun/13 with Gareth E

richpickford - 2013

AndrewJamesCherry - 2nd - 2013

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/May/12

John Nuttall - 2nd - 27/May/12 with Mark

Nice to climb my anti-style. Some questing was had on the very green top pitch.
eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/11 with dan n wales

Rubbishy - AltLd - Jun/10

mr mills - 2010 with Elfyn (chang)

Lead all 3 pitches, good fun
Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/09 with Jono Hughes

Luke Brooks - AltLd O/S - 24/Jun/09 with Dave

did all but last pitch as i got rained on half way through pitch 3; the nose and rain don't mix ;-)
Ed Booth - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/06 with will sim

Ian McNeill - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/00

Ched - 2nd - 1997 with Grant Farqhuar

John Southworth - AltLd O/S - 08/Jul/96 with Andy MacNae

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Aug/95

mark-abz - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/91 with Andy W

Hidden - 1990

Did pitch 3 of Zeta and Steve led final pitch of Diagonol to finish
JimGoodman - Lead - 16/May/89 with Steve

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Apr/88

andy gittins - 1988

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
callumbtaylor, tomhull, timo.t, a_radiohead_fan

Total votes cast 20
hard E40 of 6
E40 of 6
easy E40 of 6
hard E32 of 6
E34 of 6
easy E30 of 6
hard E20 of 6
E20 of 6
easy E20 of 6
hard 6a0 of 7
6a0 of 7
easy 6a0 of 7
hard 5c2 of 7
5c4 of 7
easy 5c1 of 7
hard 5b0 of 7
5b0 of 7
easy 5b0 of 7
3 Stars3 of 7
2 Stars4 of 7
1 Star0 of 7
0 Stars0 of 7
Bag of .....0 of 7
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Style of ascent
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Clean β