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Ouroborus* HVS 5b

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[Just before the perplexing crux of Ouroborus HVS 5b, 2 kb]A popular easier climb on the main wall, but not easy! Follow a series of ledges leftwards to a baffling and awkward crux getting into the last corner. Finish easily.
W Jeffrey, C Craggs 1975

Ticklists: Scottish Central Belt HVS.

Photo: Just before the perplexing crux of Ouroborus HVS 5b © Oli
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 170 logbooks, and on 7 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/14

Hard for the grade for the short!!
Jenny Crook - Lead - 13/Sep/14 with Ross Black

calumhicks - 2nd O/S - 13/Jun/14

First HVS, literally the most scared I have ever been, since I was too big to fit on to the crux ledge comfortably. However, persevered and eventually got there. Huge buzz when I got to the top!
Hugh Simons - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/14 with Calum Hicks

Weird crux
DavidMcK - Lead O/S - Jun/14

Hidden - 2nd - 15/May/14

Nice climb with good gear. . . As the guidebook said was a bit perplexed at crux, bit of up and down then committed feeling pretty off balance
seanhendo123 - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/14

Luci - 2nd O/S - 08/Apr/14 with Ollie

oliverk - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/14 with Luci

Nicholas Wylie - Lead O/S - 2014 with Martin Mckenna

Hidden - 2014

James90 - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/13 with jev

jev - 2nd rpt - 29/Sep/13 with James

rallymania - 2nd O/S - 21/Sep/13 with Mike J

Dav va - 2nd O/S - 21/Sep/13

gjd - 2nd rpt - 24/Aug/13 with Sam Burns

JonnoP - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/13 with Zoe S

Right hand method past the peg at crux.
JamieSparkes - Lead rpt - 13/Aug/13 with alex toomey

Liam Ingram - 2nd rpt - 13/Aug/13 with Jamie Sparkes, Ben Feintzeig

colin8ll - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/13 with Luke, Dougie

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Aug/13

gjd - 2nd rpt - 27/Jul/13 with Mitch, Gurumed

gurumed - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/13 with Mitch, gjd

Actually nothing too difficult, but feels awkward and exposed at the crux and final traverse - could never have lead it, so big thumbs up to Tom for giving me the chance to climb it behind him. Would like to try without moving right at crux (but had to collect Toms gear :-) )
codgio - 2nd O/S - 09/Jul/13 with Tom Baird

Went right at the crux, seems I should have persevered and gone left. Unfinished business. Lovely climbing in the sunshine though.
Tom Baird - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/13 with Colin Partridge

Good lead by Alison, bloody awkward to second
Fiona Reid - 2nd - 01/Jul/13 with Mike, Alison

Good lead from Alison followed up by a spectacularly bad second by myself.
prog99 - 2nd dog - 01/Jul/13 with abbeywall, Fiona

Somewhat trapped on my left knee for a bit with a worrying lean back on the crimps to make progress. Then it was all over
abbeywall - Lead - 01/Jul/13 with Mike, Fiona

WOW.
peter.ravenscroft27 - 2nd - 13/Jun/13 with joshua smith

smithjmw46 - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/13 with Pete Ravenscroft, Jordan Spence

Ewanski - 2nd - Jun/13 with Cal. C

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/May/13

Brilliant climb.
salix - Lead rpt - 30/Apr/13 with Sam J

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Apr/13

martinmckenna - 2nd - 08/Feb/13

james mcclung - Lead O/S - 12/Jan/13

Mossdawg - 2nd O/S - 12/Jan/13 with james mcclung

Busby - 2013

Interesting! Took a loooong time to actually commit to the crux and was amazed to get it first go. It looks so straightforward from the bottom but is surprisingly awkward.
Fiona Reid - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/12 with Mike

Knees & tight rope required at crux. Very good lead from Fiona who had been told she'd be too short to lead it!
prog99 - 2nd dog - 19/Sep/12 with Fiona

jonathanfield - 02/Sep/12

Hidden - Lead RP - 23/Aug/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/12

Hidden - Lead dnf - 24/Jul/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Jun/12

crookachili - Lead rpt - 01/Jun/12 with Andy Whale, Jev

jev - 2nd - 01/Jun/12 with Andy, Reuben, HWUMC

Thoms6974 - 2nd O/S - 24/May/12 with Dave S

crookachili - 2nd - 24/May/12 with Dave Stevens

Ross Young - 2nd dnf - 24/May/12 with Dave HWUMC

David Stevens - Lead O/S - 24/May/12 with Reuben Crook, Ross Young, Andy Thompson

Hidden - Lead - 07/May/12

Hidden - 2nd - 07/May/12

Sean Bell - 2nd rpt - 05/May/12 with Neil Carnegie

Very interesting crux
dj_brigham05 - Lead O/S - 15/Jan/12 with Ginger McGrath

Ginger McGrath - 2nd O/S - 15/Jan/12 with dave brigham

chrism225 - Lead O/S - 23/Oct/11 with polly, dave

took ages over it but really enjoyed it
karinh - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/11 with KeithAlexander

KeithAlexander - 2nd O/S - Sep/11 with karinh

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 29/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/11

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Aug/11

Hidden - 2nd β - Jul/11

D_Wills - Lead β - 16/Jun/11

andymoin - Lead rpt - 15/Jun/11 with Neil Mackenzie

went right this time.... far easier but still fun, just not nearly as fun. def more like VS this way
Neil Mackenzie - 2nd rpt - 14/Jun/11 with Andy

Got to the crux, fancy off balance move, and I add to downclimb as a EICA staff asks us to move our car. Gutted!
sergio46 - Lead dnf - 31/May/11 with Ian Jones

jazzyjackson - Lead - 07/May/11 with Ally

Hidden - Lead - 02/May/11

mhowie - 2nd dnf - 26/Apr/11 with Niall

Hmmm
Liam Ingram - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/11 with Morgan Trigg

Macleod - 2nd O/S - 19/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Mar/11

Climbed this dragon's back in the dark before the storm came in! One tricky, balancy move - trick is not to use the knees and trust the good ribby hold above. Would be good to come back and do it in daylight...
sophiecb - 2nd - 31/Jan/11 with Toph

Scottish78 - 2011

Alastair R - Lead O/S - 2011

R0bbie - Lead rpt - 30/Oct/10 with lucy, leighn

MonkeyDawson - 2nd - 30/Oct/10 with Simon Smith

Luci - 2nd - 30/Oct/10 with Leighn, Robbie

Hidden - Lead - 24/Oct/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Oct/10

The mantle must be a contender for the best around Edinbrugh...class! Any of you that have gone right to avoid the mantle should really log as 'lead dog' ;)
sebrider - 2nd - 08/Sep/10 with Alex

Brendan - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/10 with Alec

Took a swinger off the crux (on a good big hex), started again and finished it. Are knees allowed...?
ShoePolice - Lead - 08/Aug/10 with Kate Drugan

Nice route, scary crux. :o)
Denpov - 2nd O/S - 06/Aug/10

CharlieMack - 2nd O/S - 23/Jul/10 with Janey Kennedy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/10

Harry Holmes - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/10 with Robbie Cammack, Liyen

krasavenko - 2nd rpt - 20/Jul/10 with Harry Holmes

Cacyn - 2nd O/S - 01/Jul/10 with John Jackson

A wild route - bold but not hard - great 'perplexing' crux.
gjd - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/10 with Lesley Ann

When a way I've never seen climbed before instead of taking the crux on the left, went up right and hand traversed over. Easy for the tall I guess.
andymoin - 2nd rpt - 13/Jun/10 with Warren

adw07 - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/10 with Andy Main

Woo-hoo, first lead, love this outdoor thing. A lot scarier than it looks.
PaulMcL - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/10

Ropes got stuck on the ab. Any excuse, eh? Still feels a bloody awkward move for the grade.
Dr Toph - Solo rpt - 17/May/10

Hidden - TR - 07/May/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/Apr/10

jamiefoxen - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/10 with Scott Garcea

Did the crux the nice way this time, still don't think the route is very good.
Andy Moles - Lead rpt - 18/Apr/10 with Phil

rcammack - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/10 with Alistair Rocke

allyrocke - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/10 with Robbie

krasavenko - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/10 with Jamie Sparkes

sebrider - Lead rpt - 11/Apr/10 with Jamie

squidgebob - 2nd O/S - 10/Apr/10 with Chris BL, jamie

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/10

sebrider - 2nd O/S - 27/Mar/10 with Chris wilson

Took ages to work out the devious crux - great route!
Chris wilson - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/10 with Seb

jonnie3430 - Lead O/S - 23/Mar/10 with Matt

Greg Boswell - Solo O/S - 07/Jan/10

KatBlum - 2nd - 12/Oct/09

akhughes - Solo O/S - Sep/09

Ally Gillies - 2nd O/S - 29/Aug/09 with Pete

jamestheyip - Lead rpt - 05/Jul/09 with Simon Freeman

Not sure what earns this two stars; one awkward move and the rest is nothing special.
Andy Moles - 2nd - 05/Jul/09 with Calum

el diablo - Lead - Jul/09 with Hay

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Jun/09

robertmichaeladams - Lead - 07/May/09 with Tom

Still an awkward move and rest of route is pretty average, not sure why everyone seems to love it?
Chad123 - AltLd rpt - 24/Apr/09 with Duncan

decs - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/09 with Chad

Enjoyed this one. Good crux, quite tricky.
kevg - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/09 with Fraser

tricky crux!
Fraser - 2nd β - 06/Apr/09 with Kev

Hellish crux move!
Neil Adams - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/09 with mal_meech

Hidden - 2nd β - 05/Apr/09

Remember the side pull on the crux
schultz - 2nd O/S - 22/Mar/09 with Rob

Second time on route, First time leading it. Hence the clean no falls repeat ascent. Went for the direct route on the crux rather than the high right reach and traverse. possibly one letter grade harder this way? Still, very nice and an awesome day for it. :)
sneaks - Lead rpt - 22/Feb/09 with Bruce

Lower crux really nice. Went left on the upper crux and it was very grovel-ly. Made it look horribly difficult.
Hay - 2nd - Feb/09 with Keith

andymoin - Lead rpt - 23/Jan/09 with telford

Hidden - 2009

maxots - 2nd - 18/Nov/08 with joe larner

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/08

tipped it down at the crux - bailed out and went indoors. :(
JamieSparkes - 2nd dnf - 20/Oct/08 with Dave Spencer

s kennedy - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/08 with shelley barbour

crux confused for a while, quite committing too.... did it ok though.
tomdude - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/08 with fede

much better than it looks, enjoyable moves up the massive flake.
jazzyjackson - Lead - 05/Jul/08 with Ally

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Jul/08

simon_D - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/08 with Neil Silver

Lawrie Brand - 2nd O/S - 30/Jun/08 with Pete Hart

Odd sort of a climb.. Very psychological crux and finishing traverse. Awkward crux move, helped by a big reach.
PeteH - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/08 with Lawrie Brand

R0bbie - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/08 with Leighn Chambers

Fultonius - 2nd - 03/May/08 with Andy Inglis

andyinglis - Lead O/S - 03/May/08 with Ally Fulton

sneaks - 06/Mar/08

beegsyboy - 2nd O/S - 10/Feb/08 with Andy + Reinhart

andymoin - 2nd rpt - 10/Feb/08 with tim, rinehart

Dr Toph - Lead O/S - 2008 with Calum Clarke

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2008

Got my hands high on possessive edge then moved left to the crux, went fairly easy maybe to easy.. is this how it's meant to be done?
Matt crawford - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/07 with Taba

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Sep/07

Neil Mackenzie - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/07 with Andy

andymoin - 2nd rpt - 11/Sep/07 with Neil Mackenzie

andymoin - 2nd rpt - 25/Jun/07 with Mark Jarvie

Sean Bell - 2nd O/S - 30/Jun/06 with neil

crux is easy wen on top rope and your gear isn't 1/2 meter below.
andymoin - TR RP - 21/Apr/06 with Jamy McFarlane

The crux got me, will nail it next time!
andymoin - Lead dnf - 18/Apr/06 with Simon Parcel

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/05

Hidden - Lead RP - 02/Jan/05

mav - Sep/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/04

Chad123 - Lead O/S - May/00 with Various

Beardyman - Lead O/S - 2000

babymoac - 2nd - 30/May/99 with Chris F

JiveWeasel - 2nd - 07/Jun/98 with Bionic Bob

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 1998

dangates - 1998 with Nick Tarmey/ Kirk Watson

Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 1997 with Sean Smith

greenroom - 1997

Fell off, cannot recall if i worked out the move
Okecroak - Lead dog - 17/Jul/96 with G Scott

whispering nic - May/93 with Claire C

Duncan I - Lead - 1992

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 13/Oct/79 with Brian Dick

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
David Woods, Tom Baird, stargate, franksnb, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 108
hard E10 of 39
E10 of 39
easy E10 of 39
hard HVS5 of 39
HVS30 of 39
easy HVS4 of 39
hard VS0 of 39
VS0 of 39
easy VS0 of 39
hard 5c0 of 34
5c0 of 34
easy 5c1 of 34
hard 5b8 of 34
5b15 of 34
easy 5b4 of 34
hard 5a6 of 34
5a0 of 34
easy 5a0 of 34
3 Stars5 of 35
2 Stars22 of 35
1 Star5 of 35
0 Stars2 of 35
Bag of .....1 of 35
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Style of ascent

Soloed3 of 170 (1.8%)
Lead84 of 170 (49.4%)
Followed70 of 170 (41.2%)
Toproped2 of 170 (1.2%)
Alt Leads1 of 170 (0.6%)
Unknown10 of 170 (5.9%)

'Climbed'48 of 170 (28.2%)
clean O/S82 of 170 (48.2%)
clean β4 of 170 (2.4%)
clean rpt24 of 170 (14.1%)
clean RP3 of 170 (1.8%)
dogged3 of 170 (1.8%)
dnf6 of 170 (3.5%)