Rockfax Description
12m. Excellent. Climb the right side of the arete to good holds then use a jug on the right to reach the next break which allows a swing round the arete to a rest. Finish up the wall. © Rockfax

Oliver Smaje 17/Oct Lead dog
with josh
Victor Ivanov 17/Oct Lead rpt
with Kitty Selkirk, Alex Micas
Topsy Turvy 24/Sep Lead rpt
dakidunn 24/Sep 2nd
with Tris
Hidden 13/Sep 2nd
Hidden 31/Aug Lead O/S
MBarraclough 30/Aug Lead dog
Hidden 08/Aug Lead rpt
annep11 08/Aug 2nd rpt
maryleese 08/Aug Lead O/S
with alex toomey, Chris Prescott
Fiona Reid 01/Aug Lead β

Mike declined to continue so I took over with a couple of bits of gear in already. Strangely found the bottom section a lot more intimidating than the top.

with Mike
stuart34 01/Aug Lead O/S
with Doug the thug, Adam Russel
Mike-W-99 01/Aug 2nd

Excellent lead by Fiona

with Fiona
Hidden 01/Aug -
Hidden 01/Aug 2nd
Klingon 11/Jul Lead
with Capt Kirk
damondavies 27/Jun 2nd β
Hidden 12/Jun 2nd β
benj_d 12/Jun Solo β
FraserMcClennan 07/Jun Lead
Alpenglow 07/Jun Lead O/S
with Felix
Hidden ?/Jun 2nd
Joughton 30/May Lead O/S
Hidden 25/May Lead O/S
Hidden 23/May Lead O/S
Tim Rodgers 17/May Lead
Elsier 09/May 2nd
with Adrian
ladislav 09/May 2nd dog
with Adrian
potnoodle13 02/May Lead O/S
beagle-ears 02/May 2nd
Victor Ivanov 02/May Lead rpt
with Magda Marecková
yanboss 18/Apr 2nd dog
Alex Mason 07/Apr Solo O/S
with Jemma Powell
Hidden 06/Apr -
Hidden 06/Apr Lead O/S
salix 05/Apr Lead rpt
with Magpie, Neus
Dervey 20/Mar Lead O/S
with Rich
Richard Alderton 20/Mar 2nd dog
with Liam
stevorobs3 28/Feb Lead O/S
with Younghwa, Szymon
Rollo Rolo 28/Feb 2nd
with Younghwa, Steve Robinson
Victor Ivanov 21/Feb Lead rpt
with Katy Homyer, Arina T
rodge 21/Feb Lead O/S

Got quite pumped on this because I'm so slow at placing gear, but the moves were good and pretty straight forward. My first HVS.

leerodgers84 21/Feb 2nd dog

Missed an obvious hold and was too pumped after that.

with Joe
Tom McCabe 24/Jan Lead G/U

Fist lead fall!!! Pumped off on the reach, lowered off (left ropes up) and got it next go. Still a good climb though!

Victor Ivanov 09/Nov/14 Lead dog

Absolutely awesome root with very good protection. Sadly, had to take a break whilst faffing to find the correct gear placement. Crux move for me was different to the one originally expected whereas the originally expected crux move seemed easier. Brilliant route, definitely going back for a clean ascent.

Jude 09/Nov/14 2nd rpt
with Victor
JimHolmes69 31/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Oct/14 Lead O/S
andrew sandercock 18/Oct/14 Lead rpt
HaddRoots 18/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Great wee route, fantastic moves. easy but definetly exhilarating climbing

Hidden 18/Oct/14 Lead β
swintona95 18/Oct/14 TR
robertmctague 13/Oct/14 Solo O/S
Sam Marks 12/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Rob Mctague, LUUMC
davesa 14/Sep/14 2nd
with Mark Huxham
RD 13/Sep/14 Lead
darunniff ?/Sep/14 Lead
with Lia
Hidden 17/Aug/14 2nd
cpforbes 16/Aug/14 Lead RP
TizzyA 16/Aug/14 2nd O/S
barney_edin 16/Aug/14 Lead RP
with Tizzy, Jude
y2keable 16/Aug/14 Lead rpt
Jude 16/Aug/14 2nd dog

A couple of sketchy moves in the middle for those with T-rex arms....

FraserMcClennan 21/Jun/14 2nd
cpforbes 21/Jun/14 Lead dog
watson.b 11/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with rich
robertmichaeladams 07/Jun/14 2nd
with Chris Down
carlh 03/Jun/14 2nd O/S

Climbed with JM. Climbed at the end of a cracking afternoon of climbing and trying to squeeze it in before the approaching thuder storm struck. I ended up seconding it in the wet!

Hidden 31/May/14 Lead
redshapedfriday 26/May/14 2nd O/S
with tom anderson
Elsier 18/May/14 2nd
with Adrian
Sean Bell 16/May/14 Lead
with james
dctarrant2000 19/Apr/14 Lead rpt
with Polly Tarrant
stugreen75 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Great route, bomber gear.

with Jase
jazzyjackson 18/Apr/14 2nd
with stuart
rgd1977 18/Apr/14 Lead RP
Hidden 23/Mar/14 Lead RP
mauritanianpixie 23/Mar/14 2nd
with Conrad
Matt Poole 15/Mar/14 2nd O/S
with Thomas Heaton
iamstebarker ?/Mar/14 Solo O/S
Adamski1986 09/Feb/14 2nd
with Richard Gage
Hidden 30/Nov/13 2nd rpt
Klingon 06/Oct/13 Lead
with Ian, Nimble, Capt Kirk
robertmichaeladams 21/Sep/13 Lead
with Mike, Andi
mike_tamanawis 21/Sep/13 2nd
with Rob A, Andreas B
Ewanski 31/Aug/13 2nd
with Chris K, Bryan R
Hidden 31/Aug/13 -
Hidden 27/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Madden 21/Jul/13 2nd β
with Ben Davison
smithjmw46 21/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Nearly made a mess of this by coming round the arete to early a creating loads of rope drag. Managed to sort it out though. Lovely crux move.

michaelb1 17/Jul/13 Lead
with J Herb
The Big Sender 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S

finally got round to doing this, what an excellant route. start is fairly pumpy but doesn't last long and the top crux is incredibly satisfying and not that hard.

Hidden 06/Jul/13 2nd dnf
allyrocke 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Andrew Latham, Anne Peale
annep11 06/Jul/13 2nd rpt
with Andy, Ally
Hidden 30/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
danimal88 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S

amazingly satisfyling moves

with charlie
Tobes 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Awesome, and a sweet birthday treat

with mejulie
Hidden 08/Jun/13 2nd
Julie Black ?/Jun/13 2nd
with Tobes
wence 25/May/13 Lead O/S

Lovely, packs a lot in.

with Suzy
salix 12/May/13 Lead O/S
with Amy
lyneux 12/May/13 2nd dog
with Ian Rickerby
AGoodi 12/May/13 2nd O/S

Glad I wasn't leading. Found this hard

Ross Kirkland 06/May/13 Lead O/S
with Simon Davidson
Hidden 05/May/13 2nd
annep11 04/May/13 2nd O/S
with Suzy
Roberttaylor 04/May/13 Lead rpt
Harry Holmes 04/May/13 Solo O/S
with Sinclair Cooper
llamaglama 04/May/13 2nd O/S
with Robert, Anne, Suzy
GPN 04/May/13 Lead O/S
with Annette
Richard Fletcher 01/May/13 Lead O/S
with Tom Hopper
LHumble ?/May/13 Lead O/S
with Ian Fenwick
Antd 20/Apr/13 Lead β
Gabe Oliver 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S

First climb of the day, really beaut!

with Scott Baxtleby
Tightsgirl 15/Apr/13 2nd
arose 15/Apr/13 Lead
oliverk 13/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Apr/13 Lead
Adamski1986 01/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Richard Gage
Hidden 05/Jan/13 2nd O/S
JonmapDL 05/Jan/13 2nd

fine once worked out the crux.

with joanna, chris p, craig
Craig Holden 05/Jan/13 Lead O/S
jev 18/Nov/12 Lead O/S
with HWUMC
Hidden 21/Oct/12 2nd dog
Tim Rodgers 15/Sep/12 Lead
with David Forster
Hidden 15/Sep/12 Lead
Mark Bull 12/Sep/12 Lead dog
with Mike
Hidden 01/Sep/12 -
Adrianw 26/Aug/12 2nd rpt
with Steve Kirkup
Klingon 26/Aug/12 Lead dog

1 fall on crux

with Nimble
TGreen 18/Aug/12 Lead β
with Mark D
Mark D 15/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Ewan Irvine
ewan i 15/Aug/12 2nd rpt
with mark duggan
Adrianw 08/Aug/12 Lead dog

Went for too high a rockover before finding the right spot for my foot. What a great climb.

Macleod 05/Aug/12 2nd rpt
with alex, dominic
Hidden 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S
George Killaspy 15/Jul/12 2nd O/S

Scary as.... and pumpy to boot - but a heck of a lot of fun!

with Rob Harrison
Hidden 05/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/12 2nd
Hidden 25/May/12 Lead O/S
RyMole 12/May/12 Lead O/S
chris smith 14/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/12 -
Trevera 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with nick sillem
chrisallan 19/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Mar/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 18/Mar/12 2nd
petegunn 11/Mar/12 Lead
with Tom, Eric, Davina
Hidden 11/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Two Cams Tom 11/Mar/12 2nd
with Davina, petegunn, Eric Bray
Hidden 11/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/Feb/12 Lead O/S
ewan i 02/Nov/11 2nd rpt
with felix
Mowglee 23/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Ali
Hidden 23/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Oct/11 Lead rpt
Will Hunt 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Wow! Where has this one been hiding?

with Duncan MacNeil
Macleod 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with anthony
kat86 31/Jul/11 -
Natalie feather ?/Jul/11 Lead
Hidden 03/Jun/11 Lead
gforce 29/May/11 Lead O/S
with Emma, Dirk
James Prowse 29/May/11 Lead O/S
lindsam 24/May/11 -
Hidden 21/May/11 Lead
7om 02/May/11 Lead O/S


with Tim Key
TheHorroffice 30/Apr/11 -
Andrew Jennings 16/Apr/11 Solo O/S
with Rob Lonsdale, Lee Cooper
HeatReactor 08/Apr/11 2nd dog
MDowson 03/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Fantastic Route - Just a lovely Line.

with Jonathon Powell
Ginger McGrath 02/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Apr/11 2nd
Euan Strachan 02/Apr/11 Lead rpt
with Rori Brooker
Ruari Brooker 02/Apr/11 2nd
y2keable 27/Mar/11 Lead rpt

fantastic route with a beautiful move, one of my favourites.

David Bulley 20/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Nice moves, HVS about right.

andrew sandercock 20/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Amazing, although I enjoyed the left hand side a lot more than the right!

with Chrismo
y2keable 20/Mar/11 Lead rpt
with Bulley
Hidden 27/Feb/11 2nd
Hidden ??/2011 TR
Scottish78 ??/2011 -
Antd ??/2011 2nd
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
sduke85 ??/2011 Lead
y2keable 31/Oct/10 Lead rpt

First HVS lead. Lots of practice though.

philboy 20/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Tess
ferdia 04/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Pimpy
Whitty2012 02/Oct/10 2nd
with Alex Hughes
NaomiHart 26/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with Ursula
Hidden 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S
sneaks 26/Sep/10 2nd rpt
with janey
y2keable 12/Sep/10 Lead dog
Hidden 09/Sep/10 2nd O/S
y2keable 05/Sep/10 TR rpt
akhutton88 01/Sep/10 2nd

Right foot high on the face.

ewan i ?/Sep/10 Lead
Hidden ?/Sep/10 Lead
Hidden 11/Aug/10 2nd O/S
rob askew 11/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with nick brindley
Hidden 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S
j0shwyatt000 01/Jun/10 Lead dog
Hidden 15/May/10 2nd
ablackett 15/May/10 Lead O/S
ablackett 15/May/10 2nd
with Andy Wallace
duncman 10/May/10 Lead O/S

Awesome route, with a fantastic move once round the corner.

seeroo 02/May/10 2nd dog
cherad 21/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Kim Martin
jimmyrua 10/Apr/10 Lead β
with Euan Strachan
stuaart 10/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Neil Redgrave
Euan Strachan 10/Apr/10 Lead O/S

fantastic climb! big reach through between ledges to big holds, fantastic gear. well protected iconic climb

with James C
y2keable 28/Mar/10 TR rpt
Roberttaylor 17/Mar/10 2nd O/S

Fantastic climbing, held my first leader fall from Marcus.

with Marcus Horgan
markhammonds 14/Mar/10 2nd dog

Found it tiring so needed a couple of rests.

fall-line 14/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Pumpy on right hand side, good protection if you can hang around to place it properly. Good moves on left to top.

with Mark Hammonds
a13x 06/Mar/10 Lead

Awesome route!

Alison2 06/Mar/10 2nd O/S
with Matthew
Hidden 06/Mar/10 2nd dog
Hidden 06/Mar/10 2nd RP
smollett ?/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with oliver
scott gibson ??/2010 -
danjw ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
tomdude 25/Oct/09 Lead dog

what a route! one fall near the top

with andi
Dave Warburton 18/Oct/09 2nd O/S

Alan made this look hard so seconded him. Should have soloed - he had no footwork!

with Alain (LUUMC)
chrism225 27/Sep/09 2nd
with dave
hawkins321 24/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with rosie atkinson
odox 10/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Sam Webb
Ardginny 06/Jun/09 Lead dog

Was pumped at the end of the day and needed a rest at the first break. More overhanging than you'd think. Once round the corner there's some lovely technical moves to the top.

stukent 06/Jun/09 2nd O/S
oliwarlow 06/Jun/09 Lead
with Polly
iceicebaby 27/May/09 2nd

Awesome route, but sustained 5a all the way so I had a few rests!

Smelly Fox 26/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/May/09 Lead β
willjh 25/May/09 2nd O/S

Amazing break to break climbing on the left of the arete!

Hidden 25/May/09 Lead O/S
Trefo 17/May/09 Lead O/S

very nice technical moves at moving towards the last break.very nice.

with tom pitchforth
Chad123 25/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

Excellent HVS, can't believe I've missed this bit of the quarry all these years. Great route with some technical moves...

with Kiwi Steve
decs 25/Apr/09 2nd
with Viv
Woodiee 18/Apr/09 Lead O/S

brillant route, bit pumpy to begin with, but fantastic climbing on good crimps

with Rose Stephenson
mulletcocktail2000 05/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with john
mulletcocktail2000 05/Apr/09 Lead O/S

consistant 5a. stiff for grade.

with john
jored ?/Apr/09 -
with Ryan
Hidden ?/Apr/09 -
jimstanton ?/Apr/09 Lead
with Tom
wigwamheed 08/Mar/09 2nd

i love this sooooo much

with chris
pete87abs 04/Mar/09 Lead dnf

shit myself the whole way to last break. Too tired to get good gear in. Backed off on poor cam that popped and then nuts held. Optimistic to climb hvs after long boulder session and 1st up.

with Richard Clarke, Dave Brigham
Hidden 01/Mar/09 Lead β
burto 22/Feb/09 Lead O/S
with moleo
CalumC 21/Jan/09 Lead O/S
Sean Bell 09/Jan/09 2nd
with Neil C
Fenwick ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
ewan i ??/2009 Lead
sneaks 24/Dec/08 Lead O/S
with Neil C
petegunn 12/Oct/08 Lead
andymoin 11/Oct/08 2nd rpt
with Warren, Mark Jarvie
adw07 11/Oct/08 2nd O/S
with andy and wee mark
Rachael Barlow 13/Jul/08 2nd
with Pete Robins
Hidden 02/Jun/08 Lead rpt
Hidden 30/May/08 2nd β
joe larner 26/Apr/08 Lead O/S


Andy Moles 20/Mar/08 Lead O/S

Best route I've done at Kyloe, brilliant. Pretty high the grade?

with Malc
andymoin 23/Feb/08 Lead rpt

Back for seconds and still great!

with simon
beegsyboy 23/Feb/08 Lead RP
with Reinhart
dj_brigham05 09/Feb/08 Lead O/S
jonnie3430 09/Feb/08 2nd
with dj_brigham05
PaulWillis1973 ??/2008 -
odox ??/2008 -
Maz J ??/2008 -
snowy owl 22/Sep/07 Lead
with Ben Alcock
Hidden 14/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/07 Lead
beegsyboy 03/Jun/07 Lead dnf

Tried twice, backed off before second break. No good gear, scary!!

with Eccie + Sandy
andymoin 17/Mar/07 Lead O/S

Wow great technical balance, reachy, route, plus got a heal hook in! best route at kyloe?

Russell Lovett 10/Sep/06 2nd
Russell Lovett 10/Sep/06 2nd
with tony lickes
Topsy Turvy ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Dan Hattle
Hidden 24/Aug/03 2nd
IanMcC 24/Aug/03 2nd

Failed lead.

Hidden 15/Mar/03 Solo O/S
Urgles ?/Sep/02 2nd
with Fiend
gypsy3006 ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
David Ballantyne ?/Oct/99 Lead dog
with Gary Pigford
Dave Kerr 27/Mar/99 Lead
with Brian Dickson, Martina Osterloh
John Pickles ??/1998 Lead O/S
Ian Jones ??/1997 2nd O/S
with Sean Smith
greenroom ??/1996 Lead O/S
whispering nic ?/Mar/95 Solo
Hidden ?/May/94 Lead O/S
John Southworth ?/Oct/92 Solo O/S
uphillnow ?/Aug/92 -
with Margaret Smith
FATBOYFAT ??/1992 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby 24/Dec/90 Lead
with The General (P.Henderson)
Roget ?/Aug/89 Solo O/S
Steve Crowe 13/Jun/86 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/86 Lead O/S
andybirtwistle 15/Jun/83 -
telemark ??/1980 Lead
with Ian Henderson
Hidden ??/1980 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
tbmcbrid, Oliver Smaje, Hidden, callumwaddell, jamieB707, Victor Ivanov, MightyStew, Hidden, TizzyA, The Pulsing Motorik of Neu!, TommyMcG, alexanderjwatts, PittPauly, Hidden, Hidden, pblurton, Matt Poole, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, nic42, pete87abs, Hidden, Ropeboy, topsafari, climber130887
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 74
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 73
Votes cast 66
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set