Devil's Edge** HVS 5a
[That "Little Devil" Laura enjoying Devil's Edge HVS 5a  Kyloe Crag  Northumberland, 4 kb]10m.

Rockfax Description
12m. Excellent. Climb the right side of the arete to good holds then use a jug on the right to reach the next break which allows a swing round the arete to a rest. Finish up the wall. © ROCKFAX

Photo: That "Little Devil" Laura enjoying Devil's Edge HVS 5a Kyloe Crag Northumberland © Andy Birtwistle
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This climb is in 262 logbooks, and on 25 wishlists.

yanboss - 2nd dog - 18/Apr/15

Alex Mason - Solo O/S - 07/Apr/15 with Jemma Powell

Hidden - 06/Apr/15

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/15

Hidden - Lead rpt - 05/Apr/15

Dervey - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/15 with Rich

Richard Alderton - 2nd dog - 20/Mar/15 with Liam

stevorobs3 - Lead O/S - 28/Feb/15 with Younghwa, Szymon

Rollo Rolo - 2nd - 28/Feb/15 with Younghwa, Steve Robinson

Victor Ivanov - Lead rpt - 21/Feb/15 with Katy Homyer, Arina T

Got quite pumped on this because I'm so slow at placing gear, but the moves were good and pretty straight forward. My first HVS.
rodge - Lead O/S - 21/Feb/15

Missed an obvious hold and was too pumped after that.
leerodgers84 - 2nd dog - 21/Feb/15 with Joe

Fist lead fall!!! Pumped off on the reach, lowered off (left ropes up) and got it next go. Still a good climb though!
Tom McCabe - Lead G/U - 24/Jan/15

Absolutely awesome root with very good protection. Sadly, had to take a break whilst faffing to find the correct gear placement. Crux move for me was different to the one originally expected whereas the originally expected crux move seemed easier. Brilliant route, definitely going back for a clean ascent.
Victor Ivanov - Lead dog - 09/Nov/14 with Jude Gibson

Jude - 2nd rpt - 09/Nov/14 with Victor

JimHolmes69 - Lead O/S - 31/Oct/14 with AndyPratt88

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Oct/14

andrew sandercock - Lead rpt - 18/Oct/14 with andy lole

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Oct/14

Hidden - Lead β - 18/Oct/14

swintona95 - TR - 18/Oct/14 with Iain Howie

robertmctague - Solo O/S - 13/Oct/14

Sam Marks - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/14 with Rob Mctague, LUUMC

davesa - 2nd - 14/Sep/14 with Mark Huxham

RD - Lead - 13/Sep/14

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Aug/14

cpforbes - Lead RP - 16/Aug/14 with Fraser McLelan

TizzyA - 2nd O/S - 16/Aug/14 with Stephen, Jude

barney_edin - Lead RP - 16/Aug/14 with Tizzy, Jude

y2keable - Lead rpt - 16/Aug/14

A couple of sketchy moves in the middle for those with T-rex arms....
Jude - 2nd dog - 16/Aug/14 with barney_edin, TizzyA

FraserMcClennan - 2nd - 21/Jun/14

cpforbes - Lead dog - 21/Jun/14 with Fraser McLelan

watson.b - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/14 with rich

robertmichaeladams - 2nd - 07/Jun/14 with Chris Down

Climbed with JM. Climbed at the end of a cracking afternoon of climbing and trying to squeeze it in before the approaching thuder storm struck. I ended up seconding it in the wet!
carlh - 2nd O/S - 03/Jun/14

Hidden - Lead - 31/May/14

redshapedfriday - 2nd O/S - 26/May/14 with tom anderson

Elsier - 2nd - 18/May/14 with Adrian

Sean Bell - Lead - 16/May/14 with james

dctarrant2000 - Lead rpt - 19/Apr/14 with Polly Tarrant

Great route, bomber gear.
stugreen75 - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/14 with Jase

jazzyjackson - 2nd - 18/Apr/14 with stuart

rgd1977 - Lead RP - 18/Apr/14

Hidden - Lead RP - 23/Mar/14

Matt Poole - 2nd O/S - 15/Mar/14 with Thomas Heaton

Adamski1986 - 2nd - 09/Feb/14 with Richard Gage

LHumble - 2014

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 30/Nov/13

Klingon - Lead - 06/Oct/13 with Ian, Nimble, Capt Kirk

robertmichaeladams - Lead - 21/Sep/13 with Mike, Andi

mike_tamanawis - 2nd - 21/Sep/13 with Rob A, Andreas B

Ewanski - 2nd - 31/Aug/13 with Chris K, Bryan R

Hidden - 31/Aug/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Jul/13

Madden - 2nd β - 21/Jul/13 with Ben Davison

Nearly made a mess of this by coming round the arete to early a creating loads of rope drag. Managed to sort it out though. Lovely crux move.
smithjmw46 - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/13

michaelb1 - Lead - 17/Jul/13 with J Herb

finally got round to doing this, what an excellant route. start is fairly pumpy but doesn't last long and the top crux is incredibly satisfying and not that hard.
The Big Sender - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/13 with robert taylor

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 06/Jul/13

allyrocke - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/13 with Andrew Latham, Anne Peale

annep11 - 2nd rpt - 06/Jul/13 with Andy, Ally

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/13

amazingly satisfyling moves
danimal88 - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/13 with charlie

Awesome, and a sweet birthday treat
Tobes - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/13 with mejulie

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Jun/13

Julie Black - 2nd - Jun/13 with Tobes

Lovely, packs a lot in.
wence - Lead O/S - 25/May/13 with Suzy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/May/13

lyneux - 2nd dog - 12/May/13 with Ian Rickerby

Glad I wasn't leading. Found this hard
AGoodi - 2nd O/S - 12/May/13 with William Roper

Ross Kirkland - Lead O/S - 06/May/13 with Simon Davidson

Hidden - 2nd - 05/May/13

annep11 - 2nd O/S - 04/May/13 with Suzy

Roberttaylor - Lead rpt - 04/May/13

Harry Holmes - Solo O/S - 04/May/13 with Sinclair Cooper

llamaglama - 2nd O/S - 04/May/13 with Robert, Anne, Suzy

GPN - Lead O/S - 04/May/13 with Annette

Richard Fletcher - Lead O/S - 01/May/13 with Tom Hopper

Antd - Lead β - 20/Apr/13 with Dominic Jeff

First climb of the day, really beaut!
Gabe Oliver - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13 with Scott Baxtleby

Tightsgirl - 2nd - 15/Apr/13 with Ali Rose

arose - Lead - 15/Apr/13 with Hannah Francis

oliverk - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/13 with Tim Clarke

Hidden - Lead - 06/Apr/13

Adamski1986 - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/13 with Richard Gage

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/Jan/13

fine once worked out the crux.
JonmapDL - 2nd - 05/Jan/13 with joanna, chris p, craig

Craig Holden - Lead O/S - 05/Jan/13

jev - Lead O/S - 18/Nov/12 with HWUMC

Hidden - 2nd dog - 21/Oct/12

Tim Rodgers - Lead - 15/Sep/12 with David Forster

Hidden - Lead - 15/Sep/12

Mark Bull - Lead dog - 12/Sep/12 with Mike

Hidden - 01/Sep/12

Adrianw - 2nd rpt - 26/Aug/12 with Steve Kirkup

1 fall on crux
Klingon - Lead dog - 26/Aug/12 with Nimble

TGreen - Lead β - 18/Aug/12 with Mark D

Mark D - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/12 with Ewan Irvine

ewan i - 2nd rpt - 15/Aug/12 with mark duggan

Went for too high a rockover before finding the right spot for my foot. What a great climb.
Adrianw - Lead dog - 08/Aug/12 with Sarah Follmann

Macleod - 2nd rpt - 05/Aug/12 with alex, dominic

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/12

Scary as.... and pumpy to boot - but a heck of a lot of fun!
George Killaspy - 2nd O/S - 15/Jul/12 with Rob Harrison

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/12

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Jun/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/May/12

RyMole - Lead O/S - 12/May/12

chris smith - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/12

Hidden - 09/Apr/12

Trevera - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/12 with nick sillem

chrisallan - 2nd O/S - 19/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead rpt - 18/Mar/12

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Mar/12

petegunn - Lead - 11/Mar/12 with Tom, Eric, Davina

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Mar/12

Two Cams Tom - 2nd - 11/Mar/12 with Davina, petegunn, Eric Bray

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Feb/12

ewan i - 2nd rpt - 02/Nov/11 with felix

Mowglee - Lead O/S - 23/Oct/11 with Ali

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Oct/11

Hidden - Lead rpt - 23/Oct/11

Wow! Where has this one been hiding?
Will Hunt - Lead O/S - 22/Oct/11 with Duncan MacNeil

Macleod - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/11 with anthony

kat86 - 31/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead - Jul/11

Hidden - Lead - 03/Jun/11

gforce - Lead O/S - 29/May/11 with Emma, Dirk

James Prowse - Lead O/S - 29/May/11

lindsam - 24/May/11 with Alex Peace, Mike Mason

Hidden - Lead - 21/May/11

7om - Lead O/S - 02/May/11 with Tim Key

TheHorroffice - 30/Apr/11

Andrew Jennings - Solo O/S - 16/Apr/11 with Rob Lonsdale, Lee Cooper

HeatReactor - 2nd dog - 08/Apr/11

Fantastic Route - Just a lovely Line.
MDowson - Lead O/S - 03/Apr/11 with Jonathon Powell

Ginger McGrath - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/11 with emily roo

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Apr/11

Euan Strachan - Lead rpt - 02/Apr/11 with Rori Brooker

Ruari Brooker - 2nd - 02/Apr/11 with Euan Strachan

fantastic route with a beautiful move, one of my favourites.
y2keable - Lead rpt - 27/Mar/11

Nice moves, HVS about right.
David Bulley - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/11 with Tom Heaney, Murph, Jay, Andy Chisholm

Amazing, although I enjoyed the left hand side a lot more than the right!
andrew sandercock - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/11 with Chrismo

y2keable - Lead rpt - 20/Mar/11 with Bulley

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Feb/11

Hidden - TR - 2011

Scottish78 - 2011

Antd - 2nd - 2011

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2011

sduke85 - Lead - 2011

First HVS lead. Lots of practice though.
y2keable - Lead rpt - 31/Oct/10

philboy - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/10 with Tess

ferdia - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/10 with Pimpy

Whitty2012 - 2nd - 02/Oct/10 with Alex Hughes

NaomiHart - 2nd O/S - 26/Sep/10 with Ursula

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/10

sneaks - 2nd rpt - 26/Sep/10 with janey

y2keable - Lead dog - 12/Sep/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Sep/10

y2keable - TR rpt - 05/Sep/10

Right foot high on the face.
akhutton88 - 2nd - 01/Sep/10

ewan i - Lead - Sep/10

Hidden - Lead - Sep/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/10

rob askew - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/10 with nick brindley

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/10

j0shwyatt000 - Lead dog - 01/Jun/10

Hidden - 2nd - 15/May/10

ablackett - Lead O/S - 15/May/10 with Chris Saunter

ablackett - 2nd - 15/May/10 with Andy Wallace

Awesome route, with a fantastic move once round the corner.
duncman - Lead O/S - 10/May/10

seeroo - 2nd dog - 02/May/10

cherad - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/10 with Kim Martin

jimmyrua - Lead β - 10/Apr/10 with Euan Strachan

stuaart - 2nd O/S - 10/Apr/10 with Neil Redgrave

fantastic climb! big reach through between ledges to big holds, fantastic gear. well protected iconic climb
Euan Strachan - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/10 with James C

y2keable - TR rpt - 28/Mar/10

Fantastic climbing, held my first leader fall from Marcus.
Roberttaylor - 2nd O/S - 17/Mar/10 with Marcus Horgan

Found it tiring so needed a couple of rests.
markhammonds - 2nd dog - 14/Mar/10 with Donald Slater

Pumpy on right hand side, good protection if you can hang around to place it properly. Good moves on left to top.
fall-line - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/10 with Mark Hammonds

Awesome route!
a13x - Lead - 06/Mar/10 with Jessie Harris

Alison2 - 2nd O/S - 06/Mar/10 with Matthew

Hidden - 2nd dog - 06/Mar/10

Hidden - 2nd RP - 06/Mar/10

smollett - Lead O/S - Mar/10 with oliver

scott gibson - 2010

danjw - 2010

Hidden - 2010

what a route! one fall near the top
tomdude - Lead dog - 25/Oct/09 with andi

Alan made this look hard so seconded him. Should have soloed - he had no footwork!
Dave Warburton - 2nd O/S - 18/Oct/09 with Alain (LUUMC)

chrism225 - 2nd - 27/Sep/09 with dave

hawkins321 - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/09 with rosie atkinson

odox - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/09 with Sam Webb

Was pumped at the end of the day and needed a rest at the first break. More overhanging than you'd think. Once round the corner there's some lovely technical moves to the top.
Ardginny - Lead dog - 06/Jun/09 with Stu Kent

stukent - 2nd O/S - 06/Jun/09 with Ciaran Treanor

oliwarlow - Lead - 06/Jun/09 with Polly

Awesome route, but sustained 5a all the way so I had a few rests!
iceicebaby - 2nd - 27/May/09 with Sam Wood

Smelly Fox - Lead O/S - 26/May/09 with Mark Mosgrove

Hidden - Lead β - 26/May/09

Amazing break to break climbing on the left of the arete!
willjh - 2nd O/S - 25/May/09 with David Spencer

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/May/09

very nice technical moves at moving towards the last break.very nice.
Trefo - Lead O/S - 17/May/09 with tom pitchforth

Excellent HVS, can't believe I've missed this bit of the quarry all these years. Great route with some technical moves...
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 25/Apr/09 with Kiwi Steve

decs - 2nd - 25/Apr/09 with Viv

brillant route, bit pumpy to begin with, but fantastic climbing on good crimps
Woodiee - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/09 with Rose Stephenson

mulletcocktail2000 - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/09 with john

consistant 5a. stiff for grade.
mulletcocktail2000 - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/09 with john

jored - Apr/09 with Ryan

Hidden - Apr/09

jimstanton - Lead - Apr/09 with Tom

i love this sooooo much
wigwamheed - 2nd - 08/Mar/09 with chris

shit myself the whole way to last break. Too tired to get good gear in. Backed off on poor cam that popped and then nuts held. Optimistic to climb hvs after long boulder session and 1st up.
pete87abs - Lead dnf - 04/Mar/09 with Richard Clarke, Dave Brigham

Hidden - Lead β - 01/Mar/09

burto - Lead O/S - 22/Feb/09 with moleo

CalumC - Lead O/S - 21/Jan/09 with Andy Moles

Sean Bell - 2nd - 09/Jan/09 with Neil C

Fenwick - 2009

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2009

ewan i - Lead - 2009

sneaks - Lead O/S - 24/Dec/08 with Neil C

petegunn - Lead - 12/Oct/08 with Matt Reeve, Davina

andymoin - 2nd rpt - 11/Oct/08 with Warren, Mark Jarvie

adw07 - 2nd O/S - 11/Oct/08 with andy and wee mark

Rachael Barlow - 2nd - 13/Jul/08 with Pete Robins

Hidden - Lead rpt - 02/Jun/08

Hidden - 2nd β - 30/May/08

joe larner - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/08

Best route I've done at Kyloe, brilliant. Pretty high the grade?
Andy Moles - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/08 with Malc

Back for seconds and still great!
andymoin - Lead rpt - 23/Feb/08 with simon

beegsyboy - Lead RP - 23/Feb/08 with Reinhart

dj_brigham05 - Lead O/S - 09/Feb/08 with Jonnie Williams

jonnie3430 - 2nd - 09/Feb/08 with dj_brigham05

PaulWillis1973 - 2008

odox - 2008

Maz J - 2008

snowy owl - Lead - 22/Sep/07 with Ben Alcock

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/07

Hidden - Lead - Aug/07

Tried twice, backed off before second break. No good gear, scary!!
beegsyboy - Lead dnf - 03/Jun/07 with Eccie + Sandy

Wow great technical balance, reachy, route, plus got a heal hook in! best route at kyloe?
andymoin - Lead O/S - 17/Mar/07 with Magnes Josnon

Russell Lovett - 2nd - 10/Sep/06

Russell Lovett - 2nd - 10/Sep/06 with tony lickes

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Aug/03

Failed lead.
IanMcC - 2nd - 24/Aug/03 with Jimbo, eldiablo

Hidden - Solo O/S - 15/Mar/03

Pylon King Against Capit@lism - 2nd - Sep/02 with Fiend

gypsy3006 - Lead - 2000

David Ballantyne - Lead dog - Oct/99 with Gary Pigford

Dave Kerr - Lead - 27/Mar/99 with Brian Dickson, Martina Osterloh

John Pickles - Lead O/S - 1998

Ian Jones - 2nd O/S - 1997 with Sean Smith

greenroom - Lead O/S - 1996

whispering nic - Solo - Mar/95

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/94

John Southworth - Solo O/S - Oct/92

David Smith - Aug/92 with Margaret Smith

Rich Kirby - Lead - 24/Dec/90 with The General (P.Henderson)

Roget - Solo O/S - Aug/89

Hidden - Lead - 1980

Paul Clarke - 1980 with NUMC

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
jamieB707, potnoodle13, Victor Ivanov, MightyStew, The Pulsing Motorik of Neu!, TommyMcG, alexanderjwatts, PittPauly, blue_sundown, pblurton, Matt Poole, nic42, pete87abs, Ropeboy, topsafari, climber130887

Total votes cast 193
hard E10 of 67
E10 of 67
easy E10 of 67
hard HVS13 of 67
HVS51 of 67
easy HVS3 of 67
hard VS0 of 67
VS0 of 67
easy VS0 of 67
hard 5b0 of 67
5b0 of 67
easy 5b7 of 67
hard 5a24 of 67
5a33 of 67
easy 5a3 of 67
hard 4c0 of 67
4c0 of 67
easy 4c0 of 67
3 Stars52 of 59
2 Stars7 of 59
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean G/U
Clean RP