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Devil's Edge*** HVS 5a

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[John Mountain seconding Devil's Edge Kyloe Crag Northumberland, 3 kb]10m. Excellent. Climb the right side of the arete to good holds then use a jug on the right to reach the next break which allows a swing round the arete to a rest. Finish up the wall. © ROCKFAX

Photo: John Mountain seconding Devil's Edge Kyloe Crag Northumberland © Andy Birtwistle
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 209 logbooks, and on 17 wishlists.

Great route, bomber gear.
stugreen75 - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/14 with Jase

jazzyjackson - 2nd - 18/Apr/14 with stuart

rgd1977 - Lead RP - 18/Apr/14

Adamski1986 - 2nd - 09/Feb/14 with Richard Gage

LHumble - 2014

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 30/Nov/13

Klingon - Lead - 06/Oct/13 with Ian, Nimble, Capt Kirk

robertmichaeladams - Lead - 21/Sep/13 with Mike, Andi

mike_tamanawis - 2nd - 21/Sep/13 with Rob A, Andreas B

Ewanski - 2nd - 31/Aug/13 with Chris K, Bryan R

Hidden - 31/Aug/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Jul/13

Madden - 2nd β - 21/Jul/13 with Ben Davison

Nearly made a mess of this by coming round the arete to early a creating loads of rope drag. Managed to sort it out though. Lovely crux move.
smithjmw46 - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/13

michaelb1 - Lead - 17/Jul/13 with J Herb

finally got round to doing this, what an excellant route. start is fairly pumpy but doesn't last long and the top crux is incredibly satisfying and not that hard.
The Big Sender - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/13 with robert taylor

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 06/Jul/13

allyrocke - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/13 with Andrew Latham, Anne Peale

annep11 - 2nd rpt - 06/Jul/13 with Andy, Ally

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/13

amazingly satisfyling moves
danimal88 - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/13 with charlie

Awesome, and a sweet birthday treat
Tobes - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/13 with mejulie

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Jun/13

Julie Black - 2nd - Jun/13 with Tobes

Lovely, packs a lot in.
wence - Lead O/S - 25/May/13 with Suzy

salix - Lead O/S - 12/May/13 with Amy

lyneux - 2nd dog - 12/May/13 with Ian Rickerby

Glad I wasn't leading. Found this hard
AGoodi - 2nd O/S - 12/May/13 with William Roper

Ross Kirkland - Lead O/S - 06/May/13 with Simon Davidson

Hidden - 2nd - 05/May/13

annep11 - 2nd O/S - 04/May/13 with Suzy

Roberttaylor - Lead rpt - 04/May/13

naffan - Solo O/S - 04/May/13 with Sinclair Cooper

llamaglama - 2nd O/S - 04/May/13 with Robert, Anne, Suzy

GPN - Lead O/S - 04/May/13 with Annette

Richard Fletcher - Lead O/S - 01/May/13 with Tom Hopper

Antd - Lead β - 20/Apr/13 with Dominic Jeff

First climb of the day, really beaut!
Gabe Oliver - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13 with Scott Baxtleby

Tightsgirl - 2nd - 15/Apr/13 with Ali Rose

arose - Lead - 15/Apr/13 with Hannah Francis

oliverk - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/13 with Tim Clarke

Hidden - Lead - 06/Apr/13

Adamski1986 - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/13 with Richard Gage

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/Jan/13

fine once worked out the crux.
JonmapDL - 2nd - 05/Jan/13 with joanna, chris p, craig

Craig Holden - Lead O/S - 05/Jan/13

jev - Lead O/S - 18/Nov/12 with HWUMC

horible!
lissymanners - 2nd dog - 21/Oct/12 with andrew wallace

Tim Rodgers - Lead - 15/Sep/12 with David Forster

Hidden - Lead - 15/Sep/12

Mark Bull - Lead dog - 12/Sep/12 with Mike

Hidden - 01/Sep/12

Adrianw - 2nd rpt - 26/Aug/12 with Steve Kirkup

1 fall on crux
Klingon - Lead dog - 26/Aug/12 with Nimble

TGreen - Lead β - 18/Aug/12 with Mark D

Mark D - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/12 with Ewan Irvine

ewan i - 2nd rpt - 15/Aug/12 with mark duggan

Went for too high a rockover before finding the right spot for my foot. What a great climb.
Adrianw - Lead dog - 08/Aug/12 with Sarah Follmann

Macleod - 2nd rpt - 05/Aug/12 with alex, dominic

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/12

Scary as.... and pumpy to boot - but a heck of a lot of fun!
George Killaspy - 2nd O/S - 15/Jul/12 with Rob Harrison

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/12

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Jun/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/May/12

RyMole - Lead O/S - 12/May/12

chris smith - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/12

Hidden - 09/Apr/12

Trevera - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/12 with nick sillem

chrisallan - 2nd O/S - 19/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead rpt - 18/Mar/12

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Mar/12

petegunn - Lead - 11/Mar/12 with Tom, Eric, Davina

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Mar/12

Two Cams Tom - 2nd - 11/Mar/12 with Davina, petegunn, Eric Bray

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Feb/12

ewan i - 2nd rpt - 02/Nov/11 with felix

Mowglee - Lead O/S - 23/Oct/11 with Ali

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Oct/11

Hidden - Lead rpt - 23/Oct/11

Wow! Where has this one been hiding?
Will Hunt - Lead O/S - 22/Oct/11 with Duncan MacNeil

Macleod - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/11 with anthony

kat86 - 31/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead - Jul/11

Hidden - Lead - 03/Jun/11

gforce - Lead O/S - 29/May/11 with Emma, Dirk

James Prowse - Lead O/S - 29/May/11

lindsam - 24/May/11 with Alex Peace, Mike Mason

Hidden - Lead - 21/May/11

Awesome
7om - Lead O/S - 02/May/11 with Tim Key

TheHorroffice - 30/Apr/11

Andrew Jennings - Solo O/S - 16/Apr/11 with Rob Lonsdale, Lee Cooper

HeatReactor - 2nd dog - 08/Apr/11

Fantastic Route - Just a lovely Line.
MDowson - Lead O/S - 03/Apr/11 with Jonathon Powell

Ginger McGrath - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/11 with emily roo

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Apr/11

Euan Strachan - Lead rpt - 02/Apr/11 with Rori Brooker

Ruari Brooker - 2nd - 02/Apr/11 with Euan Strachan

fantastic route with a beautiful move, one of my favourites.
Jayson Keable - Lead O/S - Apr/11

Nice moves, HVS about right.
David Bulley - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/11 with Tom Heaney, Murph, Jay, Andy Chisholm

Amazing, although I enjoyed the left hand side a lot more than the right!
andrew sandercock - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/11 with Chrismo

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Feb/11

Hidden - TR - 2011

Scottish78 - 2011

Antd - 2nd - 2011

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2011

sduke85 - Lead - 2011

philboy - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/10 with Tess

ferdia - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/10 with Pimpy

Whitty2012 - 2nd - 02/Oct/10 with Alex Hughes

NaomiHart - 2nd O/S - 26/Sep/10 with Ursula

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/10

sneaks - 2nd rpt - 26/Sep/10 with janey

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Sep/10

Right foot high on the face.
akhutton88 - 2nd - 01/Sep/10

ewan i - Lead - Sep/10

hmngarh - Lead - Sep/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/10

rob askew - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/10 with nick brindley

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/10

j0shwyatt000 - Lead dog - 01/Jun/10

Hidden - 2nd - 15/May/10

ablackett - Lead O/S - 15/May/10 with Chris Saunter

ablackett - 2nd - 15/May/10 with Andy Wallace

Awesome route, with a fantastic move once round the corner.
duncman - Lead O/S - 10/May/10

seeroo - 2nd dog - 02/May/10

cherad - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/10 with Kim Martin

jimmyrua - Lead β - 10/Apr/10 with Euan Strachan

stuaart - 2nd O/S - 10/Apr/10 with Neil Redgrave

fantastic climb! big reach through between ledges to big holds, fantastic gear. well protected iconic climb
Euan Strachan - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/10 with James C

Fantastic climbing, held my first leader fall from Marcus.
Roberttaylor - 2nd O/S - 17/Mar/10 with Marcus Horgan

Found it tiring so needed a couple of rests.
markhammonds - 2nd dog - 14/Mar/10 with Donald Slater

Pumpy on right hand side, good protection if you can hang around to place it properly. Good moves on left to top.
fall-line - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/10 with Mark Hammonds

Awesome route!
a13x - Lead - 06/Mar/10 with Jessie Harris

Alison2 - 2nd O/S - 06/Mar/10 with Matthew

Hidden - 2nd dog - 06/Mar/10

Hidden - 2nd RP - 06/Mar/10

smollett - Lead O/S - Mar/10 with oliver

scott gibson - 2010

danjw - 2010

what a route! one fall near the top
tomdude - Lead dog - 25/Oct/09 with andi

Alan made this look hard so seconded him. Should have soloed - he had no footwork!
Dave Warburton - 2nd O/S - 18/Oct/09 with Alain (LUUMC)

chrism225 - 2nd - 27/Sep/09 with dave

hawkins321 - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/09 with rosie atkinson

odox - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/09 with Sam Webb

Was pumped at the end of the day and needed a rest at the first break. More overhanging than you'd think. Once round the corner there's some lovely technical moves to the top.
Ardginny - Lead dog - 06/Jun/09 with Stu Kent

stukent - 2nd O/S - 06/Jun/09 with Ciaran Treanor

oliwarlow - Lead - 06/Jun/09 with Polly

Awesome route, but sustained 5a all the way so I had a few rests!
iceicebaby - 2nd - 27/May/09 with Sam Wood

Smelly Fox - Lead O/S - 26/May/09 with Mark Mosgrove

Hidden - Lead β - 26/May/09

Amazing break to break climbing on the left of the arete!
willjh - 2nd O/S - 25/May/09 with David Spencer

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/May/09

very nice technical moves at moving towards the last break.very nice.
Trefo - Lead O/S - 17/May/09 with tom pitchforth

Excellent HVS, can't believe I've missed this bit of the quarry all these years. Great route with some technical moves...
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 25/Apr/09 with Kiwi Steve

decs - 2nd - 25/Apr/09 with Viv

brillant route, bit pumpy to begin with, but fantastic climbing on good crimps
Woodiee - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/09 with Rose Stephenson

mulletcocktail2000 - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/09 with john

consistant 5a. stiff for grade.
mulletcocktail2000 - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/09 with john

jored - Apr/09 with Ryan

Hidden - Apr/09

jimstanton - Lead - Apr/09 with Tom

i love this sooooo much
wigwamheed - 2nd - 08/Mar/09 with chris

shit myself the whole way to last break. Too tired to get good gear in. Backed off on poor cam that popped and then nuts held. Optimistic to climb hvs after long boulder session and 1st up.
pete87abs - Lead dnf - 04/Mar/09 with Richard Clarke, Dave Brigham

Hidden - Lead β - 01/Mar/09

burto - Lead O/S - 22/Feb/09 with moleo

CalumC - Lead O/S - 21/Jan/09 with Andy Moles

SeanB - 2nd - 09/Jan/09 with Neil C

Fenwick - 2009

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2009

ewan i - Lead - 2009

sneaks - Lead O/S - 24/Dec/08 with Neil C

petegunn - Lead - 12/Oct/08 with Matt Reeve, Davina

andymoin - 2nd rpt - 11/Oct/08 with Warren, Mark Jarvie

adw07 - 2nd O/S - 11/Oct/08 with andy and wee mark

Rachael Barlow - 2nd - 13/Jul/08 with Pete Robins

Hidden - Lead rpt - 02/Jun/08

Hidden - 2nd β - 30/May/08

Brilliant.
joe larner - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/08

Best route I've done at Kyloe, brilliant. Pretty high the grade?
Andy Moles - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/08 with Malc

Back for seconds and still great!
andymoin - Lead rpt - 23/Feb/08 with simon

beegsyboy - Lead RP - 23/Feb/08 with Reinhart

dj_brigham05 - Lead O/S - 09/Feb/08 with Jonnie Williams

jonnie3430 - 2nd - 09/Feb/08 with dj_brigham05

rockjock - 2008

odox - 2008

Maz J - 2008

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/07

Hidden - Lead - Aug/07

Tried twice, backed off before second break. No good gear, scary!!
beegsyboy - Lead dnf - 03/Jun/07 with Eccie + Sandy

Wow great technical balance, reachy, route, plus got a heal hook in! best route at kyloe?
andymoin - Lead O/S - 17/Mar/07 with Magnes Josnon

Russell Lovett - 2nd - 10/Sep/06

Russell Lovett - 2nd - 10/Sep/06 with tony lickes

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Aug/03

Hidden - Solo O/S - 15/Mar/03

The Pylon King - 2nd - Sep/02 with Fiend

gypsy3006 - Lead - 2000

David Ballantyne - Lead dog - Oct/99 with Gary Pigford

Dave Kerr - Lead - 27/Mar/99 with Brian Dickson, Martina Osterloh

John Pickles - Lead O/S - 1998

Ian Jones - 2nd O/S - 1997 with Sean Smith

greenroom - Lead O/S - 1996

whispering nic - Solo - Mar/95

cam1401 - Lead O/S - May/94 with Lee Collier

John Southworth - Solo O/S - Oct/92

Rich Kirby - Lead - 24/Dec/90 with The General (P.Henderson)

Roget - Solo O/S - Aug/89

Hidden - Lead - 1980

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
alexanderjwatts, BlindRock, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, blackreaver, pblurton, Matt Poole, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, nic42, pete87abs, Hidden, Ropeboy, topsafari, climber130887

Voting
Total votes cast 171
hard E10 of 59
E10 of 59
easy E10 of 59
hard HVS11 of 59
HVS45 of 59
easy HVS3 of 59
hard VS0 of 59
VS0 of 59
easy VS0 of 59
hard 5b0 of 58
5b0 of 58
easy 5b5 of 58
hard 5a22 of 58
5a28 of 58
easy 5a3 of 58
hard 4c0 of 58
4c0 of 58
easy 4c0 of 58
3 Stars47 of 54
2 Stars7 of 54
1 Star0 of 54
0 Stars0 of 54
Bag of .....0 of 54
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed6 of 209 (2.9%)
Lead115 of 209 (55.0%)
Followed70 of 209 (33.5%)
Toproped1 of 209 (0.5%)
Alt Leads1 of 209 (0.5%)
Unknown16 of 209 (7.7%)

'Climbed'73 of 209 (34.9%)
clean O/S96 of 209 (45.9%)
clean β7 of 209 (3.3%)
clean rpt14 of 209 (6.7%)
clean RP3 of 209 (1.4%)
dogged13 of 209 (6.2%)
dnf3 of 209 (1.4%)