UKC

90m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A superb way to continue your adventure from the top of The Nose. Use any route to gain the ledge above The Nose.
1) 15m. Scramble up and right towards the quartzy pinnacle above the descent gully. Move right just below the top of the pinnacle onto heather, then continue diagonally right to a short groove and a ledge. Continue zig-zagging rightwards with care to reach a tree and flake belay. Beware of people below.
2) 4b, 25m. Move right and up to a large flake. Climb the rightward-trending slab to gain a hand-traverse which leads to the 'Slow Ledge'. From the right-hand side of the ledge, climb a groove, then hand traverse right to gain a heathery stance.
3) 4b, 25m. Climb directly up into an unappealing groove and move left round a rib into another groove. Weave upwards on easier ground to a ledge.
4) 25m. Scramble off and belay well back. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Published grade is VS,4c not S,4a

Ticklists

Connoisseur's Classic Rock , North Wales Rock Graded List , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , Snowdonia in Chains , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , Welsh Roadtrip , Joes North Wales VS spaff attack

Feedback

User Date Notes
paulinepavlova 14 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Jammed Boulder Gully abseil is pretty much walk right without going up. tat is pretty old/ suspect
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βeta: Jammed Boulder Gully abseil is pretty much walk right without going up. tat is pretty old/ suspect
C Witter 16 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Really fun and worthwhile route. Probably high 4b, but felt 4c in a couple of places with a rucksack. It is similar in many ways to Haste Not, on White Ghyll. Good protection and good climbing, with the ledge-shuffling scramble at the start only adding to the sense of adventure.
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βeta: Really fun and worthwhile route. Probably high 4b, but felt 4c in a couple of places with a rucksack. It is similar in many ways to Haste Not, on White Ghyll. Good protection and good climbing, with the ledge-shuffling scramble at the start only adding to the sense of adventure.
Sasuke3333 30 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Don\'t try and solo the scramble, it\'s quite steep and unstable choss
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βeta: Don't try and solo the scramble, it's quite steep and unstable choss
Evak 21 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The abseil is quite hard to find. Scramble down the first gulley on the right, it\'s pretty slippery so be careful. The abseil is about 20metres scrambling down on the right side.
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βeta: The abseil is quite hard to find. Scramble down the first gulley on the right, it's pretty slippery so be careful. The abseil is about 20metres scrambling down on the right side.
liamhughes1981 12 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The hand traverse is terrifying!
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βeta: The hand traverse is terrifying!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Dinas Mot

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 45
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 42
Votes cast 43
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Cracked Arete

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Carreg Mianog)

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