Smaug The Dragon** E1 5c
[Passing the crux on Smaug the Dragon, E2 5c, Goblin Coombe, 4 kb]PEG REPLACED APRIL 2014

Photo: Passing the crux on Smaug the Dragon, E2 5c, Goblin Coombe © drcorbasisgod
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This climb is in 190 logbooks, and on 9 wishlists.

Much better than Gollum and not much harder. Really good climbing
Gabe Oliver - Lead O/S - 03/Oct/15 with Seb Boulton Oliver

Hidden - 2nd dog - 19/Sep/15

With clipped peg after Dex tried it repeatedly. Didn't make it much further up.
Matt_Ivory - Lead dnf - 19/Sep/15 with Dexter W

Both tried, both failed. I can vouch for the peg, it held 85kg of 'not good enough' from decking out. Hard! made it about 2 metres above the peg
Dexter JW - Lead dnf - 19/Sep/15 with Matt Ivory

afrosam - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/15 with DaveX

DaveX - 2nd β - 06/Sep/15 with Afrosam

steve_gibbs - Lead dog - 18/Jul/15 with Pauline Picchio

steve_gibbs - 2nd rpt - 18/Jul/15 with Pauline Picchio

Should have remembered what the guidebook said!
Sophie Nunn - Lead dog - 27/Jun/15 with Martin

felixizzy - Lead rpt - 30/May/15 with Lee

Hard E1, 5c. Polished at the bottom
clipskipper - 2nd dog - 30/May/15

James Marshall - Lead O/S - 10/May/15 with sash

Hidden - Lead dnf - 18/Apr/15

Luxulyan - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/15 with Abi

smartydh9 - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/15

Tim_C7 - Lead - Apr/15

Good one move wonder crux. Good, but more like 1 star I'd say.
pheotleyr - 2nd β - 25/Mar/15 with Felix

Followed some chalked holds right of the peg 3 times which resulted in 3 falls on to the peg. Got the move fairly easily when I realised which way I was actually meant to go.
felixizzy - Lead dog - 25/Mar/15 with Peter

London Luke - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/15 with Tim O'hannaran

maddy92 - Lead dog - 15/Mar/15

steve-grigg - Lead dog - 15/Mar/15 with Thomas Mai

kierankeavy - 2nd dog - 15/Mar/15

petellis - 2nd O/S - 07/Mar/15 with The short fuse

Matt Amos - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/14

steve_gibbs - 2nd O/S - 21/Sep/14 with Jamie Roberts

Wasn't as bad as i was expecting, tons of gear at the crux but the brand new peg was fine by itself.
zcsharp - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/14 with Steve Gibbs

shoulders - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/14 with pete lewis

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/14 with Harry Martin

BicycleBradley - 2nd O/S - 25/Jun/14

Dave Thompson - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/14 with Mark Lee

Kyle87 - Lead RP - 09/Jun/14

strong lead from Kyle
Stanners - 2nd rpt - 09/Jun/14 with Kyle Williamson

sarahrowlands - TR - 27/May/14 with Kyle Williamson

jon_ridley - Lead O/S - 18/May/14 with Will Pope, Jonny Forster

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 11/May/14

danmullett - 2nd - 05/May/14

Cheese Monkey - 2nd rpt - 24/Apr/14 with Alex W

Great route, with one little pokey section past the peg. Bit damp at the top.
Alex Winter - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/14 with Ben Darby

Hidden - TR - 16/Apr/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/14

Hidden - 2nd dog - 13/Apr/14

Luke Davies - Lead - 12/Apr/14

Hidden - Lead β - 05/Apr/14

mallardhealhook - 2nd - 05/Apr/14 with Evhall

Failed on this about 10 years ago just above the peg so thought i would check out the moves again and check the condition of the peg as well as a direct finish. Peg looks ok but i may renew it. I think this route is E2. Direct finish possible at 5c/6a.
Urgles - TR dog - 04/Apr/14

hutchay - Lead dog - 29/Mar/14 with Emily Palmer

EmilyElouise - 2nd O/S - 29/Mar/14

Well... technically not onsight since I had already climbed the top roof of Gollum. Set off just as the rain started although only the top felt properly wet. Would be interesting to watch someone else do it to see if there is a more static way through the crux, went for a fairly wild but effective option. Felt a bit easier than expected but fantastic climbing. Start felt bold
Stuart William - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/14 with Pleb

Rich couldn't manage the moves past the peg so pulled ropes and I went up. Found the move after the peg tricky what with all the pump! Very nice route
Cheese Monkey - Lead β - 19/Mar/14 with Rich R

Got to undercut and than I was completely stumped because I have had no clue how to get it through. Moved into pocket and still couldn't see any other holds apart from other tiny pocket. Climbed down desperately looking for other solution and after couple of minutes holding I decided to have a rest on the peg. After I have been given tip from other climber I got through the crux quite easily - very committing moves but beautifully technical
Chris Sieradzki - Lead dog - 09/Mar/14 with Hooo

Chris had to rest a couple of times. Armed with the beta I cruised it clean, but I can see why an onsight would be a lot harder.
Hooo - 2nd - 09/Mar/14 with Chris Sieradzki

Dan0Me - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/14 with Tom P

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 07/Mar/14

A few tricky moves but generally pretty good climb
AndyF - 2nd O/S - 04/Aug/13 with Mike

Hidden - 2nd dog - 12/Jul/13

Hidden - Lead dog - 12/Jul/13

Fierce pocket for left hand!
Shone - 2nd - 11/Jul/13 with Ian Butterworth

Gibbo - 2nd - 05/Jun/13 with Sash Coombes

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/13

Gibbo - Lead dnf - 03/May/13 with Ollie Keynes

Excellent sequence through the crux! Without that peg it would be E2 for sure, and I'm not sure about the state of it at the moment...
Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 02/May/13

awesome crux sequence passing the bulge! happy to feel so comfortable on this.
James S - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/13 with ben

Ben Russell - 2nd O/S - 28/Apr/13

jon_ridley - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/13 with Ollie, Geoff Pyatt

on tomars gear
brices - Lead β - 02/Dec/12 with Tomar

Have 2nd the route two years ago. Tasty pockets
Tomar - Lead β - 02/Dec/12 with brices

KitRabbette - 2nd - 30/Sep/12

grp - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/12

AlexRenshaw - Lead - 29/Sep/12 with Ted Lister, Thomas Renshaw

Griff1990 - 2nd dog - 29/Sep/12 with Geoff Pyatt

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Sep/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 15/Sep/12

ladymuck - TR dnf - 07/Sep/12 with Alastair Heggie

Pete Rigby - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/12 with Gary

Hidden - Lead β - 30/Aug/12

arandall - 2nd O/S - 30/Aug/12 with remus knowles

I did get a good bit of beta on this after climbing up to the undercut and back down a few times. Once I found the crucial holds and committed to going for it a great and powerful sequence! Obviously all that bouldering has paid off...
Scotsken - Lead - 11/Aug/12 with Jamie Evans

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Jul/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/12

Flowed through the crux this time rather than begging for rescue. What was I worried about, great route! I am finally at peace with Smaug.
Stanners - Lead rpt - 19/Jul/12 with Martin Stanfield

Very nice route, a scary one to try to onsight on lead though.
Stanley - 2nd O/S - 19/Jul/12

Jon Didymus - Lead rpt - 24/May/12 with Rich

Steve Hillier - TR RP - 22/May/12 with ben greatorex

Hidden - Lead β - 20/Mar/12

bpmclimb - 2nd rpt - 20/Mar/12 with Helen S

HarryB - 2nd - 14/Mar/12 with Al

Nice route once I got the crux to go!
matt_read - 2nd dog - 16/Jan/12

paultaylor - Lead O/S - 15/Jan/12 with maffer the faffer

Hidden - Lead - 13/Nov/11

mattshort - Lead O/S - 23/Oct/11 with Alan Murray

Failed to finish on lead, then saw LH pocket on the first overhang and climbed clean
cbeard - TR rpt - 15/Oct/11

Howard Lawledge - Lead O/S - Oct/11 with Maddy

Started out with hope but not expectation. Probably 5b getting to the jug below the undercut. After a while, managed to established ok gear below the peg. Game on...I moved to undercut and clipped peg after faffing around adjusting position of the quick draw. Got the undercut when jack appeared abseiling a few meters to my left. Deciding he would "spectate" he pointed out a good hold slightly higher up. I got this but felt pumped from clinging to the undercut for a while. With poor footholds, I attempted to make a very reachy/risky move to what looked like a good hold up right. Too far though and dropped back down heavily onto the hold below. Panicking and pumped and with someone saying "I think the peg has mould on it" I begged for saviour from Jack on the abseil. Heroically he began to tie a figure of eight on the bite. My hand slipping and opening more and more. Milliseconds from my date with gravity I flopped onto jacks ab rope with relief. "****ing hell" and I lowered to the ground. (sorry for clogging up notes for this climb lads)...will get it next time for sure ...(seconding)
Stanners - Lead dnf - 24/Sep/11 with Martin Stanfield

thomasadixon - 2nd rpt - 22/Aug/11

Wasn't sure I could still do 5c moves so rested first - did them easily anyway.
BeccaSnowden - Lead dog - 22/Aug/11 with Tom

hard sustained sequence. not what id epect an E1 5c to be like. really good route and fully recomend it to anyone who wants a challenge
stvredmond - Lead - 02/Aug/11 with Helen Norris

Very sustained climbing and very pumpy, doesn't let up much throughout the whole of the climb. Awesome though.
Helnorris - 2nd - 02/Aug/11 with Steve Redmond

luke13 - Lead dnf - Aug/11 with oli

Hidden - TR dog - 28/May/11

chris ebbutt - TR - 22/May/11

Hidden - TR - 22/May/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/May/11

dale1968 - 2nd dog - 20/May/11 with Tom

andy dunn - 2nd - 13/May/11 with J

andy dunn - 2nd - 06/May/11 with J

Hidden - Lead dnf - 29/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead β - 12/Feb/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/Feb/11

fletch73 - 2011

Hidden - Lead - 24/Oct/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Sep/10

LisaA - 2nd O/S - 11/Sep/10 with Andy

bigdrew - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/10 with Lisa

best E2 i have done! well from the guide it says E2.
adam cooper*super* - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/10 with jack folland

Brilliant route an excellent moves through the crux nice sharp pocket!!
Jack_F - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/10 with adam cooper* super*

Nice moves over the bulge to begin, peg looked fairly solid... Eases up for a bit then kinda catches you by surprise for the traverse leftwards under the roof.
andy dunn - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/10 with Darren

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/10

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 05/Jun/10 with Dave Frost

Nice little climb
ecowaller - Lead - 24/Apr/10 with Paula

rested on peg, stiff move
tommytuffa - Lead dog - 06/Apr/10 with tomar

Tomar - 2nd O/S - 05/Apr/10 with Tom

Gareth Clendinning (UBMC) - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/10 with Rose Williams

Didn't find it hard this time - the jugs came to hand sooner than I remembered. Completely reliant on the peg, though.
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 21/Mar/10 with Clare

T ny - 2010

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2010

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Sep/09

jlgoddard - 2nd O/S - 27/Sep/09

JPGR - Lead O/S - Aug/09 with Steve Ahern

gdb4060 - 2nd - 30/Jun/09 with Will

riddle - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/09 with Yasmina

Hidden - 2nd dog - 21/Jun/09

deklan - Lead - 14/Jun/09 with jamie

went off route right of the peg, hard
Dr Caterpillar - Lead dog - 24/May/09 with Alan Sage

JimR - 02/May/09

thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/09 with Becca

BeccaSnowden - 2nd O/S - 14/Apr/09 with Tom

eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead O/S - 15/Mar/09 with Geoff

Lev - Lead O/S - 11/Oct/08 with Emma Ross

Hidden - 2nd dog - 11/Oct/08

Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/08 with CarolineH

CarolineH - 2nd dog - 27/Sep/08 with Dave

1 rest
cem - Lead dog - 26/Apr/08 with Dan from Stroud

Circus - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/07 with Lou

ASchwirtz - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/07

Hard to see where the best holds are from under the bulge. It all went smoothly once I committed to climb up past the peg.
bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/07 with Clare

Hidden - Lead rpt - 28/Apr/07

Paul Robertson - Lead rpt - 22/Jun/06 with Ben Friedland

phsharpy - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/06 with Ben Freidland

craig h - TR O/S - 05/Jun/06 with Shunted

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Mar/06

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Mar/06

Bern - 2006

Marti999 - Lead - 2006

Hidden - Lead rpt - Aug/05

Fat Tim - Lead rpt - 11/Jul/05 with PJ

tom.e - Lead O/S - 2005

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Nov/04

APAPAP - Lead - 25/Jun/04

Hidden - 23/Apr/04

just one more - Lead - 23/Apr/04 with tim b, Svenn G

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/04 with Duncan Powell

guy xavier percival - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/03 with rob

_m.cox_ - Lead O/S - 2003

Nigel Coe - 2nd - 20/Jul/02 with Mike Raine

Hidden - 2001

Billg - Lead - 15/Oct/00 with Harry

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 2000

KRB - Lead O/S - 12/Nov/99 with Dave Pickford

John Southworth - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/99 with Vicky Munn

T ny - 1999

serby - Lead - 1999

phardman - Lead - 14/Oct/95 with Guy Maddox

Took a fall onto peg but got it second go (then graded E2 5c)
Jon Didymus - Lead RP - 14/Jun/95 with Chris

chris sm - 2nd dog - 15/Jan/95 with Andy Gill

charlesmfrench - 2nd O/S - 27/Sep/94 with Cliff

Michael Hood - Lead - 29/Jun/94

NeilGriffiths - Lead - 12/Mar/94 with paul, jon, marion

Jon Didymus - 2nd rpt - 12/Mar/94 with Rongor

Jon Didymus - 2nd O/S - 26/Sep/93 with Martin

ericinbristol - Lead - Aug/93 with Sue L

AndySL - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/93 with Mark

mattnuttall - 2nd O/S - 23/Jul/91 with Matthieu Mounier

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/90

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/May/90

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/90

RichardMc - 2nd - 18/Mar/90 with Dayle Millcott

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/86

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
badgerjockey, pheotleyr, JoshT, Graham C, aipattison, explodingsprouts, Alan100

Total votes cast 121
hard E20 of 42
E20 of 42
easy E217 of 42
hard E19 of 42
E116 of 42
easy E10 of 42
hard HVS0 of 42
HVS0 of 42
easy HVS0 of 42
hard 6a0 of 41
6a0 of 41
easy 6a1 of 41
hard 5c0 of 41
5c31 of 41
easy 5c9 of 41
hard 5b0 of 41
5b0 of 41
easy 5b0 of 41
3 Stars5 of 38
2 Stars24 of 38
1 Star8 of 38
0 Stars1 of 38
Bag of .....0 of 38
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Style of ascent
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP