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Smaug The Dragon** E1 5c

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[Passing the crux on Smaug the Dragon, E2 5c, Goblin Coombe, 4 kb]PEG REPLACED APRIL 2014

Photo: Passing the crux on Smaug the Dragon, E2 5c, Goblin Coombe © drcorbasisgod
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 144 logbooks, and on 7 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/14

Hidden - 2nd dog - 13/Apr/14

Luke Davies - Lead - 12/Apr/14

Finally!!!
evhall - Lead β - 05/Apr/14 with Jon, Steve P

mallardhealhook - 2nd - 05/Apr/14 with Evhall

Failed on this about 10 years ago just above the peg so thought i would check out the moves again and check the condition of the peg as well as a direct finish. Peg looks ok but i may renew it. I think this route is E2. Direct finish possible at 5c/6a.
The Pylon King - TR dog - 04/Apr/14

hutchay - Lead dog - 29/Mar/14 with Emily Palmer

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/14

Rich couldn't manage the moves past the peg so pulled ropes and I went up. Found the move after the peg tricky what with all the pump! Very nice route
Cheese Monkey - Lead β - 19/Mar/14 with Rich R

Got to undercut and than I was completely stumped because I have had no clue how to get it through. Moved into pocket and still couldn't see any other holds apart from other tiny pocket. Climbed down desperately looking for other solution and after couple of minutes holding I decided to have a rest on the peg. After I have been given tip from other climber I got through the crux quite easily - very committing moves but beautifully technical
Chris Sieradzki - Lead dog - 09/Mar/14 with Hooo

Chris had to rest a couple of times. Armed with the beta I cruised it clean, but I can see why an onsight would be a lot harder.
Hooo - 2nd - 09/Mar/14 with Chris Sieradzki

TommityP - 2nd rpt - 07/Mar/14

A few tricky moves but generally pretty good climb
AndyF - 2nd O/S - 04/Aug/13 with Mike

Hidden - 2nd dog - 12/Jul/13

Hidden - Lead dog - 12/Jul/13

Fierce pocket for left hand!
Shone - 2nd - 11/Jul/13 with Ian Butterworth

Gibbo - 2nd - 05/Jun/13 with Sash Coombes

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/13

Gibbo - Lead dnf - 03/May/13 with Ollie Keynes

Excellent sequence through the crux! Without that peg it would be E2 for sure, and I'm not sure about the state of it at the moment...
Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 02/May/13

awesome crux sequence passing the bulge! happy to feel so comfortable on this.
James S - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/13 with ben

Brussell - 2nd O/S - 28/Apr/13

jon_ridley - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/13 with Ollie, Geoff Pyatt

on tomars gear
brices - Lead β - 02/Dec/12 with Tomar

Have 2nd the route two years ago. Tasty pockets
Tomar - Lead β - 02/Dec/12 with Simon b

KitRabbette - 2nd - 30/Sep/12

grp - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/12

AlexRenshaw - Lead - 29/Sep/12 with Ted Lister, Thomas Renshaw

Griff1990 - 2nd dog - 29/Sep/12 with Geoff Pyatt

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Sep/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 15/Sep/12

ladymuck - TR dnf - 07/Sep/12 with Alastair Heggie

Pete Rigby - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/12 with Gary

Hidden - Lead β - 30/Aug/12

arandall - 2nd O/S - 30/Aug/12 with remus knowles

I did get a good bit of beta on this after climbing up to the undercut and back down a few times. Once I found the crucial holds and committed to going for it a great and powerful sequence! Obviously all that bouldering has paid off...
Scotsken - Lead - 11/Aug/12 with Jamie Evans

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Jul/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/12

Flowed through the crux this time rather than begging for rescue. What was I worried about, great route! I am finally at peace with Smaug.
Stanners - Lead rpt - 19/Jul/12 with Martin Stanfield

Very nice route, a scary one to try to onsight on lead though.
Stanley - 2nd O/S - 19/Jul/12

Superb
Jon Didymus - Lead rpt - 24/May/12 with Rich

Steve Hillier - TR RP - 22/May/12 with ben greatorex

Couldn't remember anything much from last year, but pumped Brian for beta! Peg was solid nd comforting, the cam I stuffed into the undercut flake rather less so. Cranked up and went for it.
hms - Lead β - 20/Mar/12 with Brian

bpmclimb - 2nd rpt - 20/Mar/12 with Helen S

HarryB - 2nd - 14/Mar/12 with Al

Nice route once I got the crux to go!
matt_read - 2nd dog - 16/Jan/12

paultaylor - Lead O/S - 15/Jan/12 with maffer the faffer

Hidden - Lead - 13/Nov/11

mattshort - Lead O/S - 23/Oct/11 with Alan Murray

Failed to finish on lead, then saw LH pocket on the first overhang and climbed clean
cbeard - TR rpt - 15/Oct/11

Howard Lawledge - Lead O/S - Oct/11 with Maddy

Started out with hope but not expectation. Probably 5b getting to the jug below the undercut. After a while, managed to established ok gear below the peg. Game on...I moved to undercut and clipped peg after faffing around adjusting position of the quick draw. Got the undercut when jack appeared abseiling a few meters to my left. Deciding he would "spectate" he pointed out a good hold slightly higher up. I got this but felt pumped from clinging to the undercut for a while. With poor footholds, I attempted to make a very reachy/risky move to what looked like a good hold up right. Too far though and dropped back down heavily onto the hold below. Panicking and pumped and with someone saying "I think the peg has mould on it" I begged for saviour from Jack on the abseil. Heroically he began to tie a figure of eight on the bite. My hand slipping and opening more and more. Milliseconds from my date with gravity I flopped onto jacks ab rope with relief. "****ing hell" and I lowered to the ground. (sorry for clogging up notes for this climb lads)...will get it next time for sure ...(seconding)
Stanners - Lead dnf - 24/Sep/11 with Martin Stanfield

thomasadixon - 2nd rpt - 22/Aug/11

Wasn't sure I could still do 5c moves so rested first - did them easily anyway.
BeccaSnowden - Lead dog - 22/Aug/11 with Tom

hard sustained sequence. not what id epect an E1 5c to be like. really good route and fully recomend it to anyone who wants a challenge
stvredmond - Lead - 02/Aug/11 with Helen Norris

Very sustained climbing and very pumpy, doesn't let up much throughout the whole of the climb. Awesome though.
Helnorris - 2nd - 02/Aug/11 with Steve Redmond

luke13 - Lead dnf - Aug/11 with oli

came hideously close to being my first dnf, until I found the 2 key moves above the peg.
hms - TR dog - 28/May/11 with UCR squad

chris ebbutt - TR - 22/May/11

Hidden - TR - 22/May/11

Top notch climb!
TommityP - Lead O/S - 20/May/11

dale1968 - 2nd dog - 20/May/11 with Tom

andy dunn - 2nd - 13/May/11 with J

andy dunn - 2nd - 06/May/11 with J

Hidden - Lead dnf - 29/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead β - 12/Feb/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/Feb/11

fletch73 - 2011

Hidden - Lead - 24/Oct/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Sep/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Sep/10

bigdrew - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/10 with Lisa

best E2 i have done! well from the guide it says E2.
adam cooper*super* - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/10 with jack folland

Brilliant route an excellent moves through the crux nice sharp pocket!!
Jack_F - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/10 with adam cooper* super*

Nice moves over the bulge to begin, peg looked fairly solid... Eases up for a bit then kinda catches you by surprise for the traverse leftwards under the roof.
andy dunn - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/10 with Darren

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/10

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 05/Jun/10 with Dave Frost

Nice little climb
ecowaller - Lead - 24/Apr/10 with Paula

rested on peg, stiff move
tommytuffa - Lead dog - 06/Apr/10 with tomar

Tomar - 2nd O/S - 05/Apr/10 with Tom

Gareth Clendinning (UBMC) - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/10 with Rose Williams

Didn't find it hard this time - the jugs came to hand sooner than I remembered. Completely reliant on the peg, though.
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 21/Mar/10 with Clare

T ny - 2010

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2010

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Sep/09

jlgoddard - 2nd O/S - 27/Sep/09

JPGR - Lead O/S - Aug/09 with Steve Ahern

gdb4060 - 2nd - 30/Jun/09 with Will

riddle - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/09 with Yasmina

Hidden - 2nd dog - 21/Jun/09

deklan - Lead - 14/Jun/09 with jamie

went off route right of the peg, hard
Dr Caterpillar - Lead dog - 24/May/09 with Alan Sage

JimR - 02/May/09

thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/09 with Becca

BeccaSnowden - 2nd O/S - 14/Apr/09 with Tom

eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead O/S - 15/Mar/09 with Geoff

Lev - Lead O/S - 11/Oct/08 with Emma Ross

Hidden - 2nd dog - 11/Oct/08

Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/08 with CarolineH

CarolineH - 2nd dog - 27/Sep/08 with Dave

1 rest
cem - Lead dog - 26/Apr/08 with Dan from Stroud

Circus - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/07 with Lou

ASchwirtz - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/07

Hard to see where the best holds are from under the bulge. It all went smoothly once I committed to climb up past the peg.
bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/07 with Clare

Hidden - Lead rpt - 28/Apr/07

Paul Robertson - Lead rpt - 22/Jun/06 with Ben Friedland

phsharpy - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/06 with Ben Freidland

craig h - TR O/S - 05/Jun/06 with Shunted

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Mar/06

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Mar/06

Bern - 2006

Marti999 - Lead - 2006

Hidden - Lead rpt - Aug/05

Fat Tim - Lead rpt - 11/Jul/05 with PJ

tom.e - Lead O/S - 2005

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Nov/04

Hidden - 23/Apr/04

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/04 with Duncan Powell

guy xavier percival - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/03 with rob

_m.cox_ - Lead O/S - 2003

Nigel Coe - 2nd - 20/Jul/02 with Mike Raine

Hidden - 2001

Billg - Lead - 15/Oct/00 with Harry

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 2000

KRB - Lead O/S - 12/Nov/99 with Dave Pickford

John Southworth - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/99 with Vicky Munn

T ny - 1999

phardman - Lead - 14/Oct/95 with Guy Maddox

Second go when graded E2 5c
Jon Didymus - Lead RP - 14/Jun/95 with Chris

chris sm - 2nd dog - 15/Jan/95 with Andy Gill

charlesmfrench - 2nd O/S - 27/Sep/94 with Cliff

Michael Hood - Lead - 29/Jun/94

NeilGriffiths - Lead - 12/Mar/94 with paul, jon, marion

Jon Didymus - 2nd rpt - 12/Mar/94 with Rongor

Jon Didymus - 2nd O/S - 26/Sep/93 with Martin

AndySL - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/93 with Mark

mattnuttall - 2nd O/S - 23/Jul/91 with Matthieu Mounier

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/90

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/May/90

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/90

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/86

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
pheotleyr, Hidden, JoshT, Graham C, aipattison, explodingsprouts, Alan100

Voting
Total votes cast 92
hard E20 of 32
E20 of 32
easy E213 of 32
hard E17 of 32
E112 of 32
easy E10 of 32
hard HVS0 of 32
HVS0 of 32
easy HVS0 of 32
hard 6a0 of 31
6a0 of 31
easy 6a1 of 31
hard 5c0 of 31
5c24 of 31
easy 5c6 of 31
hard 5b0 of 31
5b0 of 31
easy 5b0 of 31
3 Stars5 of 29
2 Stars17 of 29
1 Star7 of 29
0 Stars0 of 29
Bag of .....0 of 29
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Style of ascent

Lead87 of 144 (60.4%)
Followed42 of 144 (29.2%)
Toproped8 of 144 (5.6%)
Unknown7 of 144 (4.9%)

'Climbed'36 of 144 (25.0%)
clean O/S63 of 144 (43.8%)
clean β7 of 144 (4.9%)
clean rpt13 of 144 (9.0%)
clean RP2 of 144 (1.4%)
dogged18 of 144 (12.5%)
dnf5 of 144 (3.5%)