Ownership of the combe is divided between Avon Wildlife Trust (who own the eastern section) and the charitable trust Groundworks South (who own the western section where the majority of the crags are located). The Landowner does not allow climbing on the crags. If climbers do decide to visit and are asked to leave by Groundworks staff, they should do so politely and as quickly as is safely possible.
Be aware that there are frequently loose blocks at the top of the smaller buttresses - a cautious approach is advised. As with any crag, climbing here is an activity with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions.
Dates: 15 February to 15 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ravens are nesting on Eagle Rock - the buttress should be avoided until the signs are removed.
Rockfax Description
A fine climb, one of the best hereabouts. Climb on pockets past a thin flake to a break below steeper ground and an undercut. Move up past the undercut (peg) and make some pressing moves up pockets left of a groove to meet a left-facing corner. Follow the corner to join Gollum and finish via its final moves. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
PEG REPLACED APRIL 2014
Tolkien route names , Devon and surrounding counties 50 E1 and some E2 and 1 E3 and an E4 , Dances with Goblins , Middle Earth Climbs , Cianchi's Hit List
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Tall Oak | 18 Jul, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Top rope solo. All there. Nice pitch. Though I canny remember the beta (was there any?) | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Top rope solo. All there. Nice pitch. Though I canny remember the beta (was there any?) |
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Grade: E2 5c ***
(Avon Gorge (Main Area))