Black Spring** HVS 5a
[Exceptional conditions on Black Spring, 2 kb]

Rockfax Description
A good technical climb but P2 is often wet.
1) 4a, 15m. Climb up easy ground to the terrace.
2) 5a, 25m. Gain a crack from the left and follow it for 10m. Move left for 3m and follow pockets to a bulge and right to a cave.
3) 5a, 32m. Pass the overlap on the right and gain a steep slab on the right. Follow a shallow groove, then break left to a quartzy groove which leads to a large ledge.
4) 4a, 15m. Climb up broken ground to meet Slow Ledge Climb at the large flake.
5) 4c, 35m. Move up to a ledge and follow a crack on the left to a large roof. Traverse rightwards on jugs to belay at a junction with Slow Ledge Climb.
6) 40m. Slabby climbing leads to the top. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List.

Photo: Exceptional conditions on Black Spring © Neil Foster
View all 4 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 87 logbooks, and on 17 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/15

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Sep/14

lovely evening climb done in 4 pitches the last of which we moved together. led pitch 2 through the over hang. Really good route!
JamesWilliams - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/14 with Dan Hale

Brilliant route, climbed in 4 pitches. Well worth doing. First pitch is quite bold for HVS. Initial route finding on pitch 3 is a bit tricky. The climbing is excellent climbing with a variety of different styles on all pitches: slabby and technical on P1, then steep and juggy on P2 then 3 dimensional Tremadog style climbing through overlaps and grooves on P3/4.
Dan724 - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/14 with James Williams

jshields - AltLd - 21/Jun/14 with Paul Headland

Delighted to get this big adventurous route done before the hot spell ends. Excellent pocket pulling in exciting positions on both 5a pitches. (Even after 3 dry weeks, introductory scramble is wet and scary at top if you take a direct line, rather than zig-zagging L & R up grassy rake. But there is gear before final moves to boggy ledge.) Led Ps 1-6.
Andy Clarke - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/13 with Ralph

mjeffery - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/13 with Rob

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Jul/13

Got lost on p3... mega vertical bushwhack to the belay.
cbeard - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/13 with Jonny Hawkins

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/13

lead 4th pitch
pimpy - AltLd - 14/Jul/13 with clare muir

sheelba - AltLd - 13/Jul/13

Lead the hard pitches
Bert - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Jun/13

Trobbo - AltLd - 07/Jun/13 with Matt Reed/Liam Gaston

Nick Biven - 2013

PAJames - 2013

PAJames - 2013

DubyaJamesDubya - 2013

First 3 pitches only as it got dark, Led P1 and P2, especially amazing pockety moves on P2. Belay for P2 is basically a bog, even after a week of sunshine. Bring a towel
Sardien - AltLd O/S - 28/May/12 with Ruth Bevan

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Seconded first 3 pitches, second pitch was a bit damp,third was soaking wet after a downpoor. Still cant understand how kirill didn't fall off. Abbed off.
Ketu - 2nd dog - 02/Oct/11 with Kirill

first 3 pitches only, in drizzle.
Kirill - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/11 with Rob Truckle

P1-tw, p2-ow/mt, p3-tw , p4-ow , p5-mt , p6-tw P1&2 wet
Tim W - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/11 with Oli Warren, Matthew Thomson

arthur_de_briton - AltLd - 23/Jul/11 with oliver warren, tim wilkinson

leerybunny - 2nd - 23/Jul/11 with arthur_de_briton, Tim Wilkinson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/11

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Jul/11

dan gibson - Solo O/S - 03/Jul/11

Despite all the dry weather this year there were no signs of any other ascents. Excellent route.
caradoc - AltLd O/S - 27/Apr/11 with john b

uphillnow - 2011

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2011

mwatson - 2011

phil64 - AltLd - 20/Jun/10

Phil led the 5a pitches
JasonV - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/10 with Phil

Started rather late, finished even later!
zukator - Lead - 18/Jun/10

martrin - AltLd - 17/Jun/10 with Colin Smith

The Bad Cough - AltLd O/S - 24/May/10 with Lee Bonner

Top 3 pitches only in the wet, after pitches on the shield.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 29/Oct/09 with Mikey G

Led P1 (up vegetation) and P3 (the overlap)
theotherpetehill - AltLd - 27/Sep/09

barni - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/09 with Liam fleming

chrisallan - AltLd O/S - Jul/09

Hidden - AltLd - May/09

Seymore Butt - 2009

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Sep/08

just the first 3 pitches
Carly - AltLd O/S - 21/Sep/08 with sophie

Looked at this in guide as a good tester route at the grade.Parked at Nant Peris & caught the bus to the Cromlech Boulders.Did in 5 pitches.I led off 1st to the WET grassy terrace!,Rob led the 1st hard pitch,bit wet!.I led the roof & slab pitch,brilliant!did the rest alternately.Ran down after decending and just made the bus back.Excellent day,very pleased with the climbing.
mike bridges - AltLd O/S - 31/May/08 with Robert Bridges

Owain Llewelyn - AltLd - 07/May/08 with Phil

Hidden - AltLd - Apr/08

Al Evans - 2008

Sean Kelly - 2007

Was late back to the car. Got trouble
chris wyatt - AltLd O/S - 2007 with Gary Lewis

Duncan Hardy - 13/Aug/06 with Andrew Harrison

NeilGriffiths - AltLd - 11/Jun/06 with Simon Frost

Ian McNeill - 2006

rob.grafton - Lead - 2006 with Jim

timreynolds - Lead dnf - 10/Jun/00 with Chris Bird

zero six - Lead O/S - 2000

babymoac - AltLd - 11/Jul/97 with Chris F

Ched - Lead O/S - 1997 with Glanfor

Andy Say - Lead - 31/Jul/95

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/May/95

Hidden - AltLd - 24/Jun/94

led 1st pitch
michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/89 with pete roberts

Hidden - AltLd - 29/May/89

GuyM - 1985

Hidden - Lead - 1985

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - Lead - 1984 with Phillippa Mathews

AlanLittle - AltLd - Jul/83 with John Walters

Hidden - Lead - 1981

Hidden - Lead - 1980

mikej - Lead - 11/Jul/79 with Tony Waite

Hidden - Lead - 14/Jun/79

Gordon Stainforth - 2nd - 22/Jul/78 with Dave Langmead

Mike Owen - Lead rpt - 28/May/78 with Elaine Watson

Mark Kemball - Lead - 1978

Bolt Phobia - Lead - 03/Jun/77

Ian Jones - AltLd O/S - 1977 with Billy Jones

steve L - 2nd - 25/Jul/76 with Phil Thomas, sharpie

Mike Owen - 2nd β - 19/Apr/76 with Sandy Doby

petemeads - Lead - 06/Jun/75

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 20/Apr/74 with Mike Butler

Tom V - 2nd - Apr/72 with Kev Martin

Hidden - AltLd - 1969

mikej - AltLd - 12/Jun/68 with Geoff Williams

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Garston, erbridger, rbharries, Ropeboy, Katex, Paul McCallum, Pete Nugent, kleinej, tompilgrem, Urgles, Different Steve

Total votes cast 59
hard E10 of 20
E10 of 20
easy E10 of 20
hard HVS12 of 20
HVS8 of 20
easy HVS0 of 20
hard VS0 of 20
VS0 of 20
easy VS0 of 20
hard 5b0 of 20
5b0 of 20
easy 5b1 of 20
hard 5a11 of 20
5a8 of 20
easy 5a0 of 20
hard 4c0 of 20
4c0 of 20
easy 4c0 of 20
3 Stars4 of 19
2 Stars14 of 19
1 Star1 of 19
0 Stars0 of 19
Bag of .....0 of 19
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat