Rockfax Description
A good technical climb but P2 is often wet.
1) 4a, 15m. Climb up easy ground to the terrace.
2) 5a, 25m. Gain a crack from the left and follow it for 10m. Move left for 3m and follow pockets to a bulge and right to a cave.
3) 5a, 32m. Pass the overlap on the right and gain a steep slab on the right. Follow a shallow groove, then break left to a quartzy groove which leads to a large ledge.
4) 4a, 15m. Climb up broken ground to meet Slow Ledge Climb at the large flake.
5) 4c, 35m. Move up to a ledge and follow a crack on the left to a large roof. Traverse rightwards on jugs to belay at a junction with Slow Ledge Climb.
6) 40m. Slabby climbing leads to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List.

Hidden 11/Jun Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
JamesWilliams 30/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

lovely evening climb done in 4 pitches the last of which we moved together. led pitch 2 through the over hang. Really good route!

Dan724 30/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Brilliant route, climbed in 4 pitches. Well worth doing. First pitch is quite bold for HVS. Initial route finding on pitch 3 is a bit tricky. The climbing is excellent climbing with a variety of different styles on all pitches: slabby and technical on P1, then steep and juggy on P2 then 3 dimensional Tremadog style climbing through overlaps and grooves on P3/4.

jshields 21/Jun/14 AltLd
with Paul Headland
Andy Clarke 22/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Delighted to get this big adventurous route done before the hot spell ends. Excellent pocket pulling in exciting positions on both 5a pitches. (Even after 3 dry weeks, introductory scramble is wet and scary at top if you take a direct line, rather than zig-zagging L & R up grassy rake. But there is gear before final moves to boggy ledge.) Led Ps 1-6.

with Ralph
mjeffery 21/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with Rob
Hidden 20/Jul/13 AltLd
cbeard 19/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Got lost on p3... mega vertical bushwhack to the belay.

Hidden 16/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
pimpy 14/Jul/13 AltLd

lead 4th pitch

with clare muir
sheelba 13/Jul/13 AltLd
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Andrew Bevan
Bert 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Lead the hard pitches

Hidden 07/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Trobbo 07/Jun/13 AltLd
with Matt Reed/Liam Gaston
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
PAJames ??/2013 -
PAJames ??/2013 -
Sardien 28/May/12 AltLd O/S

First 3 pitches only as it got dark, Led P1 and P2, especially amazing pockety moves on P2. Belay for P2 is basically a bog, even after a week of sunshine. Bring a towel

with Ruth Bevan
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Ketu 02/Oct/11 2nd dog

Seconded first 3 pitches, second pitch was a bit damp,third was soaking wet after a downpoor. Still cant understand how kirill didn't fall off. Abbed off.

with Kirill
Kirill 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S

first 3 pitches only, in drizzle.

Tim W 23/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

P1-tw, p2-ow/mt, p3-tw , p4-ow , p5-mt , p6-tw P1&2 wet

arthur_de_briton 23/Jul/11 AltLd
with oliver warren, tim wilkinson
leerybunny 23/Jul/11 2nd
Hidden 03/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/Jul/11 AltLd
dan gibson 03/Jul/11 Solo O/S
caradoc 27/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Despite all the dry weather this year there were no signs of any other ascents. Excellent route.

with john b
uphillnow ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 AltLd O/S
mwatson ??/2011 -
phil64 20/Jun/10 AltLd
JasonV 19/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Phil led the 5a pitches

with Phil
zukator 18/Jun/10 Lead

Started rather late, finished even later!

martrin 17/Jun/10 AltLd
with Colin Smith
The Bad Cough 24/May/10 AltLd O/S
with Lee Bonner
Alex Mason 29/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Top 3 pitches only in the wet, after pitches on the shield.

with Mikey G
theotherpetehill 27/Sep/09 AltLd

Led P1 (up vegetation) and P3 (the overlap)

barni 02/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
chrisallan ?/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/May/09 AltLd
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
Hidden 22/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
Carly 21/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

just the first 3 pitches

with sophie
mike bridges 31/May/08 AltLd O/S

Looked at this in guide as a good tester route at the grade.Parked at Nant Peris & caught the bus to the Cromlech Boulders.Did in 5 pitches.I led off 1st to the WET grassy terrace!,Rob led the 1st hard pitch,bit wet!.I led the roof & slab pitch,brilliant!did the rest alternately.Ran down after decending and just made the bus back.Excellent day,very pleased with the climbing.

Owain Llewelyn 07/May/08 AltLd
with Phil
Hidden ?/Apr/08 AltLd
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Sean Kelly ??/2007 -
chris wyatt ??/2007 AltLd O/S

Was late back to the car. Got trouble

with Gary Lewis
Duncan Hardy 13/Aug/06 -
with Andrew Harrison
NeilGriffiths 11/Jun/06 AltLd
with Simon Frost
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
rob.grafton ??/2006 Lead
with Jim
timreynolds 10/Jun/00 Lead dnf
with Chris Bird
zero six ??/2000 Lead O/S
babymoac 11/Jul/97 AltLd
with Chris F
Ched ??/1997 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Andy Say 31/Jul/95 Lead
Hidden 20/May/95 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/94 AltLd
michael burrows 23/Jul/89 AltLd O/S

led 1st pitch

with pete roberts
Hidden 29/May/89 AltLd
GuyM ??/1985 -
Hidden ??/1985 Lead
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1984 Lead
with Phillippa Mathews
Rob Davies 18/Jul/83 Lead

Drier than normal

with Angus McLean
AlanLittle ?/Jul/83 AltLd
with John Walters
Hidden ??/1981 Lead
Hidden ??/1980 Lead
mikej 11/Jul/79 Lead
with Tony Waite
Hidden 14/Jun/79 Lead
Gordon Stainforth 22/Jul/78 2nd
with Dave Langmead
Mike Owen 28/May/78 Lead rpt
with Elaine Watson
Mark Kemball ??/1978 Lead
Bolt Phobia 03/Jun/77 Lead
Ian Jones ??/1977 AltLd O/S
with Billy Jones
steve L 25/Jul/76 2nd
with Phil Thomas, sharpie
Mike Owen 19/Apr/76 2nd β
with Sandy Doby
petemeads 06/Jun/75 Lead
Dave Musgrove 20/Apr/74 AltLd
with Mike Butler
Tom V ?/Apr/72 2nd
with Kev Martin
Hidden ??/1969 AltLd
mikej 12/Jun/68 AltLd
with Geoff Williams
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Garston, Hidden, Hidden, erbridger, rbharries, Ropeboy, Hidden, Katex, Paul McCallum, Pete Nugent, kleinej, Hidden, tompilgrem, Hidden, Hidden, Urgles, Different Steve
High E1
Mid E1
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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 20
High 5b
Mid 5b
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High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 20
Votes cast 19
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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