Fell at the crux, will get it another day!
WillAndrew - Lead dog - 29/Aug/15 with Matt, Cara
Best Topout ever!
JoeE - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/15 with Michael
felixizzy - 2nd rpt - 20/Jun/15 with Lee
Steeper than it looks :-)
clipskipper - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/15
hthom - 2nd - 06/Jun/15
cdpuk - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/15 with Harrison Thom
Radical-G - Lead rpt - 16/May/15
steve_gibbs - 2nd O/S - 15/Mar/15 with Max Coney
Legs - Lead O/S - 15/Mar/15
Tom F Harding - 2nd dog - 13/Sep/14 with Sam Collins
Disappointing, didn't realise it was a mantelshelf and fumbled round for a good hold after the lip instead, didn't find one. Eventually found a descent handjam on my third go
sheelba - Lead dog - 13/Sep/14
steve-grigg - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/14 with David Maddison
maddy92 - 2nd - 24/Aug/14
Hidden - Lead - 15/Aug/14
Dave Thompson - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/14 with Audry Morrison
nice climb, bit loose at top, will return to lead!
Matthew Martin Wsm - TR - 13/Jul/14 with marc fenton
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 19/Jun/14 with Clare
Better protected with small wires than it looks from the ground, but harder climbing. Solid or top end HVS. A couple of distinct cruxes for me, getting into the groove and over the bulge at the top. I was hang around for ages before committing to final sequence. I enjoyed the climbing.
Poco Loco - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/14 with Other Lucy, Lucy
lucyh - 2nd - 18/Jun/14 with James Pomeroy
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Jun/14
Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/14
So cool. Far harder than it looks from the ground.
felixizzy - Lead O/S - 26/May/14 with Nick
nicknicely - 2nd dog - 26/May/14 with felix
Hidden - 2nd dnf - 11/May/14
Broke my talus
Griff1990 - Lead dnf - 09/May/14 with Dave Clare
davidclare - Lead O/S - 05/May/14 with Klara Marsikova
georgeevans88 - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/14 with James N
Nathan Chrismas - 2nd - 30/Mar/14 with Nancy Jones
Hidden - Lead dog - 30/Mar/14
Nice. Belayed and abbed off tree after hard climbing to avoid loose but easier top half
bonelessivar - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/14 with Alan
wurzelinzummerset - 2nd - 26/Mar/14 with Ric
Lazytraveller - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/14 with Chloe Mead
Chlo-mead - 2nd O/S - 08/Mar/14 with Jordan Smith
Really good climb. High in the grade.
Urgles - TR rpt - 21/Feb/14 with Mr Shunt
Was a little shakey on this but haven't unsighted HVS for zonks! Good but shame about the few loose holds near the top.
Stanners - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/14 with James Rich
JamesRich - 2nd O/S - 16/Feb/14 with Rob stanfield
James Jackson - 2014
katherinesydney - 2nd O/S - 30/Nov/13 with mike kann
steve_gibbs - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/13 with Tommy
Slick - 2nd - 12/Oct/13 with Kevin Vans-Colina
Jim Brooke - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/13 with James Jackson
dan23584 - 2nd O/S - 14/Jul/13 with Simon Rodgers
Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/May/13
Good climbing in the bottom half, I liked the moves into and up the groove (quite techy, top end 5a). Shame about the loose finish.
Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 06/May/13 with Emily
Luke Davies - Lead - 05/May/13
Tough with cold fingers.
wurzelinzummerset - 2nd - 01/Apr/13 with Andy
Crux was quite strenuous, should of paused to look at my feet rather than letting them flail around everywhere.... The top isnt that bad, slightly loose but not coming down anytime soon
Cheese Monkey - Lead O/S - 30/Jan/13 with Peter
tommy.henriksson78 - 2nd O/S - 2013 with steve_gibbs
Hidden - TR - 08/Dec/12
Hidden - TR O/S - 08/Dec/12
Mayaculpa - 2nd dog - 01/Dec/12 with Peter
fantastic climb with tons of bomber gear. well worth 2 stars.
pheotleyr - Lead O/S - 01/Dec/12 with Mike
Chazwoz - Lead dog - 20/Oct/12 with Merlin March
Rattly rock at the top. Didn't feel like it was about to come off though.
Alex Winter - Lead β - 14/Oct/12 with Will A
Gibbo - Lead - 13/Sep/12 with Lee Bateman, Ollie Keynes
Seemed hard. i couldn't find a "jug" to get onto the face, so went up Sarumen, than traversed in -to a protectable crack then pulled into the "blind groove" which was strenuous but fine. Felt quite committing. Top half (shared with Sarumen) had far too many loose blocky bits for my liking! We abbed off the tower. One day I feel it will come down...
Phil Murray - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/12 with Liz
HarryB - Lead dog - 04/Jun/12 with Tom
bpmclimb - 2nd rpt - 20/May/12 with Mick
Dan_Staff - 2nd dog - 19/May/12 with David Claire
davidclare - Lead O/S - 19/May/12 with Dan Staff
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/May/12
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/Nov/11
Dogged/fell off lots at crux then gave up
HarryB - Lead dnf - 15/Oct/11 with Ollie
unusually steep for a limestone HVS
msoldn - 2nd O/S - 15/Sep/11 with Nick
Stuart William - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/11 with Beth Morgan
Very good! some nice moves, and lots of lovely small nut placements. Yum
thomasaneurinsmith - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/11 with Dad
Used the tree near the start of the climb, tricky corner and moving left over the sort of mantle was an arm pull. Felt hard for the grade to me.
BB1 - 2nd O/S - 14/Aug/11 with Andy Carson
mandy - Lead dog - 14/Aug/11 with bridgette
Gibbo - Lead - 21/Jul/11 with Tom Gibbison
mikeydee135 - 2nd O/S - 15/Jul/11 with Colin Knowles
Hidden - Lead β - 10/Jul/11
Radical-G - 2nd β - 22/May/11
chrism225 - Lead O/S - 20/May/11 with tom
Hidden - 2nd rpt - 20/May/11
evilweed - Lead O/S - 15/May/11 with Sara Currie, Dan
DL led to the Crux but had a crisis of confidence and lowered off to second it following JL's lead.
Slightly awkward climbing below the crux and an exciting rock-over to exit the groove.
fragglerock - AltLd dog - 15/May/11 with Jon Lumb
nice climb, interesting crux in the middle, great holds all the way through climb
matt_read - 2nd O/S - 14/May/11 with Richard Adventure
First HVS for a while, pleased with this climb, rock good, with exception of a few loose small blocks.
richardadventurecafe - Lead O/S - 14/May/11 with Matt Read
Hidden - Lead dog - 26/Apr/11
Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11
Hidden - 2nd - 09/Apr/11
nearly fell while run out. manned up though and cranked it hard
jon_ridley - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/11 with Geoff Pyatt
Hidden - 2nd rpt - 20/Mar/11
Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/11
Pete climbed to the crux then finished up Saruman, crux is harder than I remember!
aipattison - 2nd - 05/Mar/11 with Pete Swan
Clay C - 2nd β - 12/Feb/11 with Will A
Hidden - Lead dog - 12/Feb/11
In failing light after backing off The Clockwork Fingerflake.
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 07/Nov/10 with Clare
Went too high before trying to get into the blind groove. Traversed off leftwards.
Clay C - Lead dnf - 24/Oct/10 with Steve Gibbs
First HVS onsight! Good climbing & better protected than it looks.
aipattison - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10 with UBMC
loved this route. Even though its a tad loose at the top i dont think its all that bad that it detracts from the climbing. lovely and steep
stvredmond - 2nd - 02/Oct/10 with Toby Dunford
tobydunford - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/10
Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/10
Bit of a one move wonder but well protected, although the Saruman crux is on the climb.Some loose feeling stuff at the top
PaulWatson - 2nd O/S - 22/Jun/10 with Ben
Hidden - 2nd - 30/May/10
Doesn't deserve a star. Top is a choss heap waiting to fall down. Felt like a climbing Jenga game - you just have to make sure you don't remove the wrong block!
Chris Sansum - Lead O/S - 30/May/10 with Andy Flynn
bpmclimb - Lead dog - 24/May/10 with Mark
not sure where the star came from - possibly a bit more stable in the past. what could be an enjoyable climb was no more appealing than pulling on loose blocks.
andy dunn - Lead β - 27/Apr/10 with Tom, J
wildrover220 - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/10 with Niall Lusby
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Apr/10
Tomar - 2nd - 27/Mar/10 with "Brosky"
deklan - 2nd - 24/May/09 with alex
jon bradley - 03/May/09
timstyles - 2nd β - 03/May/09 with Jon Bradley
a little bit go-y or something...
AlexD - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/09 with joeurwin
joeurwin - 2nd O/S - 19/Apr/09 with alex
Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/09
Hidden - TR - 22/Feb/09
Allmost fell on the crux
Protheroe - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/08 with Alyssa Jacob belayer, Dave Radley 2nd
Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/08
Al Franks - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/08 with Emma Ross
Alasdair88 - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/08 with Emma Ross
Hidden - Lead - 14/May/08
How frustrating: fell just after making the crux move out of the blind groove. Got the right finger jam in the crack and the left hand placed; sorted the foot positions; went for the high hold and found it easily; got the other hand on it; made the high left foot placement and then tried to go for a higher handhold. Fingers slipped and I fell a few feet, not sure how far exactly, but enough to pick up a rope burn on the wrist and a few small bruises elsewhere. Now fully energised I went straight back up to the crux, swearing profusely at all and sundry and this time rocked over onto that high left foot and found the massive jug wide to the left. This is a great route for stretching your technique; you can do it with brute strength if you have it, but develop the footwork and it just lets you go. I will be back to lead this cleanly sometime soon.
Humpty Dangler - Lead dog - 06/May/08 with Jay
one fall/slip and not very graceful. one to go back to
mattf77 - Lead - 09/Mar/08 with toby+tom
Ybot Htulk - 2nd - Mar/08 with Tom Dixon and mat
Hidden - TR - 10/Feb/08
Hidden - TR - 10/Feb/08
Harder than Disaster Area. Difficult move is at 5 metres; having left the relative ease of Saruman, found the jug and the hidden foothold, stepped across to the 'blind groove', (more like half an ice-cream scoop), you then have to climb out of it. The key for me was a wide-left foothold at shoulder height; a bit of nervous shuffling upwards on thin, slippery footholds, with the fingers unpeeling from a full stretch hold and with a surge it was mine. Slipped off the first time, despite having correctly identified the sequence of moves required from ground observation, (dammit), then made the move without a problem and the rest of the route was easy. And what a fantastic place to be. A thin, triangular tower, tapering to a spike pinnacle with a sublime belay stance just behind.
Humpty Dangler - 2nd dog - 26/Jan/08 with Jordan Lane
Hidden - Lead dog - 26/Jan/08
Hidden - Lead O/S - 2008
Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Oct/07
jw231 - Lead O/S - Oct/07 with nblackbeard
ian d f - 2nd dog - Sep/07 with Mark
Hidden - 2nd rpt - 29/Aug/07
Matt Tranter - Aug/07
deklan - Aug/07
Awesome route, loved it. Not too hard, gear was good, but take lots of micros :)
mrtom - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/07 with Camilla Clifford
camillaclifford - 2nd dog - 17/Jun/07 with mrtom
bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 26/May/07 with Clare
Hidden - Lead rpt - 10/Mar/07
Hidden - TR - 03/Mar/07
markfromstoke - Lead - 2007 with Ian
Fat Tim - Lead O/S - 17/Dec/06 with Nick Ingram
First fall on an outdoor climb - took a real whipper on this and could not continue. Climbing well until that point, determined to go back and finish it off soon!
Matty - Lead dnf - 23/Jul/06 with Vicky Spencer
Boxy - Lead β - 17/Jun/06
Tamlyn - Lead O/S - 14/May/06 with Dave V
Siderunner - 2nd O/S - 06/May/06 with Jill
James Moyle - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/06 with R.Nelson
beardy mike - 2006 with Gareth Wood
Bristoldave - Lead rpt - 2006
cat22 - 2nd dog - 2005 with Will S
gaz.marshall - Lead O/S - Aug/04 with Luke
Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/04
Hidden - 2nd - 21/Feb/04
Norman_P_W - Lead - 21/Feb/04 with Bob M
Hidden - Lead - 18/Oct/03
Urgles - Lead O/S - Oct/03 with Laura
Hidden - Lead - Mar/00
cornishben - Lead O/S - 2000
cem - Lead O/S - Mar/99 with Gordon Carder
Stone Muppet - 1999 with cc
Jon Didymus - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/94 with Rongor
jim_randell - TR rpt - 06/Nov/93
NeilGriffiths - Lead - 11/Oct/93 with jackie
ericinbristol - Lead O/S - Jun/93 with Sue L
jim_randell - TR O/S - 18/Jul/92