18m. An interesting route up the centre of Orthanc. Climb the slightly off-balance slab, trending rightwards to gain a blind groove. Work up the groove to exit it with an exciting mantelshelf move and continue to easier climbing up the rib above.

badgerjockey 20/Sep Lead O/S
with Al
WillAndrew 29/Aug Lead dnf

Fell at the crux, will get it another day!

with Matt, Cara
JoeE 04/Jul Lead O/S

Best Topout ever!

with Michael
felixizzy 20/Jun 2nd rpt
with Lee
clipskipper 19/Jun Lead O/S

Steeper than it looks :-)

hthom 06/Jun 2nd
cdpuk 06/Jun Lead O/S

Superb route

Radical-G 16/May Lead rpt
steve_gibbs 15/Mar 2nd O/S
with Max Coney
Legs 15/Mar Lead O/S
suds_01 ??/2015 -
Tom F Harding 13/Sep/14 2nd dog
sheelba 13/Sep/14 Lead dog

Disappointing, didn't realise it was a mantelshelf and fumbled round for a good hold after the lip instead, didn't find one. Eventually found a descent handjam on my third go

steve-grigg 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S
maddy92 24/Aug/14 2nd
Hidden 15/Aug/14 Lead
Dave Thompson 15/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Audry Morrison
Matthew Martin Wsm 13/Jul/14 TR

nice climb, bit loose at top, will return to lead!

with marc fenton
bpmclimb 19/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Clare
Poco Loco 18/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Better protected with small wires than it looks from the ground, but harder climbing. Solid or top end HVS. A couple of distinct cruxes for me, getting into the groove and over the bulge at the top. I was hang around for ages before committing to final sequence. I enjoyed the climbing.

with Other Lucy, Lucy
lucyh 18/Jun/14 2nd
Hidden 08/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/14 Lead O/S
felixizzy 26/May/14 Lead O/S

So cool. Far harder than it looks from the ground.

with Nick
nicknicely 26/May/14 2nd dog
with felix
Hidden 11/May/14 2nd dnf
Griff1990 09/May/14 Lead dnf

Broke my talus

davidclare 05/May/14 Lead O/S
with Klara Marsikova
georgeevans88 12/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with James N
Nathan Chrismas 30/Mar/14 2nd
Hidden 30/Mar/14 Lead dog
bonelessivar 26/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Nice. Belayed and abbed off tree after hard climbing to avoid loose but easier top half

with Alan
wurzelinzummerset 26/Mar/14 2nd
with Ric
Lazytraveller 08/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Chlo-mead 08/Mar/14 2nd O/S
Urgles 21/Feb/14 TR rpt

Really good climb. High in the grade.

with Mr Shunt
Stanners 16/Feb/14 Lead O/S

Was a little shakey on this but haven't unsighted HVS for zonks! Good but shame about the few loose holds near the top.

with James Rich
JamesRich 16/Feb/14 2nd O/S
James Jackson ??/2014 -
katherinesydney 30/Nov/13 2nd O/S
steve_gibbs 20/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with Tommy
Slick 12/Oct/13 2nd
Jim Brooke 24/Jul/13 Lead O/S
dan23584 14/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Simon Rodgers
Hidden 16/May/13 Lead O/S
Nick Russell 06/May/13 Lead O/S

Good climbing in the bottom half, I liked the moves into and up the groove (quite techy, top end 5a). Shame about the loose finish.

with Emily
Luke Davies 05/May/13 Lead
wurzelinzummerset 01/Apr/13 2nd

Tough with cold fingers.

with Andy
Cheese Monkey 30/Jan/13 Lead O/S

Crux was quite strenuous, should of paused to look at my feet rather than letting them flail around everywhere.... The top isnt that bad, slightly loose but not coming down anytime soon

with Peter
tommy.henriksson78 ??/2013 2nd O/S
with steve_gibbs
Hidden 08/Dec/12 TR
Hidden 08/Dec/12 TR O/S
Mayaculpa 01/Dec/12 2nd dog
with Peter
pheotleyr 01/Dec/12 Lead O/S

fantastic climb with tons of bomber gear. well worth 2 stars.

with Mike
Chazwoz 20/Oct/12 Lead dog
clams 20/Oct/12 2nd
with Chazwoz
Alex Winter 14/Oct/12 Lead β

Rattly rock at the top. Didn't feel like it was about to come off though.

with Will A
Gibbo 13/Sep/12 Lead
with Lee Bateman, Ollie Keynes
Phil Murray 20/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Seemed hard. i couldn't find a "jug" to get onto the face, so went up Sarumen, than traversed in -to a protectable crack then pulled into the "blind groove" which was strenuous but fine. Felt quite committing. Top half (shared with Sarumen) had far too many loose blocky bits for my liking! We abbed off the tower. One day I feel it will come down...

with Liz
HarryB 04/Jun/12 Lead dog
with Tom
bpmclimb 20/May/12 2nd rpt
with Mick
Dan_Staff 19/May/12 2nd dog
with David Claire
davidclare 19/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/May/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/Nov/11 2nd O/S
HarryB 15/Oct/11 Lead dnf

Dogged/fell off lots at crux then gave up

with Ollie
msoldn 15/Sep/11 2nd O/S

unusually steep for a limestone HVS

with Nick
Stuart William 04/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Beth Morgan
thomasaneurinsmith 21/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Very good! some nice moves, and lots of lovely small nut placements. Yum

with Dad
BB1 14/Aug/11 2nd O/S

Used the tree near the start of the climb, tricky corner and moving left over the sort of mantle was an arm pull. Felt hard for the grade to me.

with Andy Carson
mandy 14/Aug/11 Lead dog
with bridgette
Gibbo 21/Jul/11 Lead
with Tom Gibbison
mikeydee135 15/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/11 Lead β
Radical-G 22/May/11 2nd β
chrism225 20/May/11 Lead O/S
with tom
Hidden 20/May/11 2nd rpt
evilweed 15/May/11 Lead O/S
with Sara Currie, Dan
fragglerock 15/May/11 AltLd dog

DL led to the Crux but had a crisis of confidence and lowered off to second it following JL's lead. Slightly awkward climbing below the crux and an exciting rock-over to exit the groove.

matt_read 14/May/11 2nd O/S

nice climb, interesting crux in the middle, great holds all the way through climb

richardadventurecafe 14/May/11 Lead O/S

First HVS for a while, pleased with this climb, rock good, with exception of a few loose small blocks.

with Matt Read
Hidden 26/Apr/11 Lead dog
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/11 2nd
jon_ridley 06/Apr/11 Lead O/S

nearly fell while run out. manned up though and cranked it hard

Hidden 20/Mar/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 20/Mar/11 Lead O/S
aipattison 05/Mar/11 2nd

Pete climbed to the crux then finished up Saruman, crux is harder than I remember!

Clay C 12/Feb/11 2nd β
with Will A
Hidden 12/Feb/11 Lead dog
bpmclimb 07/Nov/10 Lead rpt

In failing light after backing off The Clockwork Fingerflake.

with Clare
Clay C 24/Oct/10 Lead dnf

Went too high before trying to get into the blind groove. Traversed off leftwards.

with Steve Gibbs
aipattison 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S

First HVS onsight! Good climbing & better protected than it looks.

with UBMC
stvredmond 02/Oct/10 2nd

loved this route. Even though its a tad loose at the top i dont think its all that bad that it detracts from the climbing. lovely and steep

tobydunford 02/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Sep/10 Lead O/S
PaulWatson 22/Jun/10 2nd O/S

Bit of a one move wonder but well protected, although the Saruman crux is on the climb.Some loose feeling stuff at the top

with Ben
Hidden 30/May/10 2nd
Chris Sansum 30/May/10 Lead O/S

Doesn't deserve a star. Top is a choss heap waiting to fall down. Felt like a climbing Jenga game - you just have to make sure you don't remove the wrong block!

bpmclimb 24/May/10 Lead dog
with Mark
andy dunn 27/Apr/10 Lead β

not sure where the star came from - possibly a bit more stable in the past. what could be an enjoyable climb was no more appealing than pulling on loose blocks.

with Tom, J
wildrover220 18/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Niall Lusby
Hidden 11/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Tomar 27/Mar/10 2nd
Rob Davies ?/Sep/09 Lead
with Phil Ashton
deklan 24/May/09 2nd
with alex
jon bradley 03/May/09 -
timstyles 03/May/09 2nd β
AlexD 19/Apr/09 Lead O/S

a little bit go-y or something...

joeurwin 19/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with alex
Hidden 18/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Feb/09 TR
Protheroe 27/Sep/08 Lead O/S

Allmost fell on the crux

with Alyssa Jacob belayer, Dave Radley 2nd
Hidden 15/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Al Franks 15/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Alasdair88 15/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Emma Ross
Hidden 14/May/08 Lead
Humpty Dangler 06/May/08 Lead dog

How frustrating: fell just after making the crux move out of the blind groove. Got the right finger jam in the crack and the left hand placed; sorted the foot positions; went for the high hold and found it easily; got the other hand on it; made the high left foot placement and then tried to go for a higher handhold. Fingers slipped and I fell a few feet, not sure how far exactly, but enough to pick up a rope burn on the wrist and a few small bruises elsewhere. Now fully energised I went straight back up to the crux, swearing profusely at all and sundry and this time rocked over onto that high left foot and found the massive jug wide to the left. This is a great route for stretching your technique; you can do it with brute strength if you have it, but develop the footwork and it just lets you go. I will be back to lead this cleanly sometime soon.

with Jay
mattf77 09/Mar/08 Lead

one fall/slip and not very graceful. one to go back to

with toby+tom
Ybot Htulk ?/Mar/08 2nd
with Tom Dixon and mat
Hidden 10/Feb/08 TR
Hidden 10/Feb/08 TR
Humpty Dangler 26/Jan/08 2nd dog

Harder than Disaster Area. Difficult move is at 5 metres; having left the relative ease of Saruman, found the jug and the hidden foothold, stepped across to the 'blind groove', (more like half an ice-cream scoop), you then have to climb out of it. The key for me was a wide-left foothold at shoulder height; a bit of nervous shuffling upwards on thin, slippery footholds, with the fingers unpeeling from a full stretch hold and with a surge it was mine. Slipped off the first time, despite having correctly identified the sequence of moves required from ground observation, (dammit), then made the move without a problem and the rest of the route was easy. And what a fantastic place to be. A thin, triangular tower, tapering to a spike pinnacle with a sublime belay stance just behind.

Hidden 26/Jan/08 Lead dog
Hidden ??/2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Oct/07 Lead O/S
jw231 ?/Oct/07 Lead O/S
ian d f ?/Sep/07 2nd dog
with Mark
Hidden 29/Aug/07 2nd rpt
Matt Tranter ?/Aug/07 -
deklan ?/Aug/07 -
mrtom 17/Jun/07 Lead O/S

Awesome route, loved it. Not too hard, gear was good, but take lots of micros :)

camillaclifford 17/Jun/07 2nd dog
with mrtom
bpmclimb 26/May/07 Lead O/S
with Clare
Hidden 10/Mar/07 Lead rpt
Hidden 03/Mar/07 TR
markfromstoke ??/2007 Lead
with Ian
Fat Tim 17/Dec/06 Lead O/S
Matty 23/Jul/06 Lead dnf

First fall on an outdoor climb - took a real whipper on this and could not continue. Climbing well until that point, determined to go back and finish it off soon!

with Vicky Spencer
Boxy 17/Jun/06 Lead β
Tamlyn 14/May/06 Lead O/S
with Dave V
Siderunner 06/May/06 2nd O/S
with Jill
James Moyle 07/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with R.Nelson
beardy mike ??/2006 -
with Gareth Wood
Bristoldave ??/2006 Lead rpt
cat22 ??/2005 2nd dog
with Will S
gaz.marshall ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
with Luke
Hidden ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Feb/04 2nd
Norman_P_W 21/Feb/04 Lead
with Bob M
Hidden 18/Oct/03 Lead
Urgles ?/Oct/03 Lead O/S
with Laura
Hidden ?/Mar/00 Lead
cornishben ??/2000 Lead O/S
cem ?/Mar/99 Lead O/S
with Gordon Carder
Stone Muppet ??/1999 -
with cc
Didymus 12/Mar/94 Lead O/S
with Rongor
jim_randell 06/Nov/93 TR rpt
NeilGriffiths 11/Oct/93 Lead
with jackie
ericinbristol ?/Jun/93 Lead O/S
with Sue L
jim_randell 18/Jul/92 TR O/S
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
ChrisWills, Hidden, badgerjockey, Hidden, Jonathan Storey, Alan100, Ewan Richards, Hidden
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 40
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 38
Votes cast 36
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set