Gandalf* HVS 5a
[Enjoying the climbing on Gandalf!, 3 kb]18m. An interesting route up the centre of Orthanc. Climb the slightly off-balance slab, trending rightwards to gain a blind groove. Work up the groove to exit it with an exciting mantelshelf move and continue to easier climbing up the rib above.

Photo: Enjoying the climbing on Gandalf! © steve-grigg
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 144 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

Tom F Harding - 2nd dog - 13/Sep/14 with Sam Collins

Disappointing, didn't realise it was a mantelshelf and fumbled round for a good hold after the lip instead, didn't find one. Eventually found a descent handjam on my third go
sheelba - Lead dog - 13/Sep/14

steve-grigg - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/14 with David Maddison

maddy92 - 2nd - 24/Aug/14

Hidden - Lead - 15/Aug/14

Dave Thompson - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/14 with Audry Morrison

nice climb, bit loose at top, will return to lead!
Matthew Martin Wsm - TR - 13/Jul/14 with marc fenton

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 19/Jun/14 with Clare

Better protected with small wires than it looks from the ground, but harder climbing. Solid or top end HVS. A couple of distinct cruxes for me, getting into the groove and over the bulge at the top. I was hang around for ages before committing to final sequence. I enjoyed the climbing.
Poco Loco - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/14 with Other Lucy, Lucy

lucyh - 2nd - 18/Jun/14 with James Pomeroy

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Jun/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/14

So cool. Far harder than it looks from the ground.
felixizzy - Lead O/S - 26/May/14 with Nick

nicknicely - 2nd dog - 26/May/14 with felix

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 11/May/14

Broke my talus
Griff1990 - Lead dnf - 09/May/14 with Dave Clare

davidclare - Lead O/S - 05/May/14 with Klara Marsikova

georgeevans88 - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/14 with James N

nathanxmas - 2nd - 30/Mar/14 with Nancy Jones

Hidden - Lead dog - 30/Mar/14

Nice. Belayed and abbed off tree after hard climbing to avoid loose but easier top half
bonelessivar - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/14 with Alan

wurzelinzummerset - 2nd - 26/Mar/14 with Ric

Lazytraveller - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/14 with Chloe Mead

Chlo-mead - 2nd O/S - 08/Mar/14 with Jordan Smith

Really good climb. High in the grade.
The Pylon King - TR rpt - 21/Feb/14 with Mr Shunt

Was a little shakey on this but haven't unsighted HVS for zonks! Good but shame about the few loose holds near the top.
Stanners - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/14 with James Rich

JamesRich - 2nd O/S - 16/Feb/14 with Rob stanfield

James Jackson - 2014

katherinesydney - 2nd O/S - 30/Nov/13 with mike kann

Slick - 2nd - 12/Oct/13 with Kevin Vans-Colina

Jim Brooke - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/13 with James Jackson

dan23584 - 2nd O/S - 14/Jul/13 with Simon Rodgers

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/May/13

Good climbing in the bottom half, I liked the moves into and up the groove (quite techy, top end 5a). Shame about the loose finish.
Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 06/May/13 with Emily

Luke Davies - Lead - 05/May/13

Tough with cold fingers.
wurzelinzummerset - 2nd - 01/Apr/13 with Andy

Crux was quite strenuous, should of paused to look at my feet rather than letting them flail around everywhere.... The top isnt that bad, slightly loose but not coming down anytime soon
Cheese Monkey - Lead O/S - 30/Jan/13 with Peter

steve_gibbs - Lead O/S - 2013

Hidden - TR - 08/Dec/12

Hidden - TR O/S - 08/Dec/12

Mayaculpa - 2nd dog - 01/Dec/12 with Peter

fantastic climb with tons of bomber gear. well worth 2 stars.
pheotleyr - Lead O/S - 01/Dec/12 with Mike

Chazwoz - Lead dog - 20/Oct/12 with Merlin March

Rattly rock at the top. Didn't feel like it was about to come off though.
Alex Winter - Lead β - 14/Oct/12 with Will A

Gibbo - Lead - 13/Sep/12 with Lee Bateman, Ollie Keynes

Seemed hard. i couldn't find a "jug" to get onto the face, so went up Sarumen, than traversed in -to a protectable crack then pulled into the "blind groove" which was strenuous but fine. Felt quite committing. Top half (shared with Sarumen) had far too many loose blocky bits for my liking! We abbed off the tower. One day I feel it will come down...
Phil Murray - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/12 with Liz

HarryB - Lead dog - 04/Jun/12 with Tom

bpmclimb - 2nd rpt - 20/May/12 with Mick

Dan_Staff - 2nd dog - 19/May/12 with David Claire

davidclare - Lead O/S - 19/May/12 with Dan Staff

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/May/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/Nov/11

Dogged/fell off lots at crux then gave up
HarryB - Lead dnf - 15/Oct/11 with Ollie

unusually steep for a limestone HVS
msoldn - 2nd O/S - 15/Sep/11 with Nick

Stuart William - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/11 with Beth Morgan

Very good! some nice moves, and lots of lovely small nut placements. Yum
thomasaneurinsmith - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/11 with Dad

Used the tree near the start of the climb, tricky corner and moving left over the sort of mantle was an arm pull. Felt hard for the grade to me.
BB1 - 2nd O/S - 14/Aug/11 with Andy Carson

mandy - Lead dog - 14/Aug/11 with bridgette

Gibbo - Lead - 21/Jul/11 with Tom Gibbison

mikeydee135 - 2nd O/S - 15/Jul/11 with Colin Knowles

TommityP - Lead β - 10/Jul/11

Radical-G - 2nd β - 22/May/11

chrism225 - Lead O/S - 20/May/11 with tom

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 20/May/11

evilweed - Lead O/S - 15/May/11 with Sara Currie, Dan

DL led to the Crux but had a crisis of confidence and lowered off to second it following JL's lead. Slightly awkward climbing below the crux and an exciting rock-over to exit the groove.
fragglerock - AltLd dog - 15/May/11 with Jon Lumb

nice climb, interesting crux in the middle, great holds all the way through climb
matt_read - 2nd O/S - 14/May/11 with Richard Adventure

First HVS for a while, pleased with this climb, rock good, with exception of a few loose small blocks.
richardadventurecafe - Lead O/S - 14/May/11 with Matt Read

hung on gear at crux - layback right foot - pop left out left
evhall - Lead dog - 26/Apr/11 with Fletch

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Apr/11

nearly fell while run out. manned up though and cranked it hard
jon_ridley - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/11 with Geoff Pyatt

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 20/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/11

Pete climbed to the crux then finished up Saruman, crux is harder than I remember!
aipattison - 2nd - 05/Mar/11 with Pete Swan

Clay C - 2nd β - 12/Feb/11 with Will A

Hidden - Lead dog - 12/Feb/11

In failing light after backing off The Clockwork Fingerflake.
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 07/Nov/10 with Clare

Went too high before trying to get into the blind groove. Traversed off leftwards.
Clay C - Lead dnf - 24/Oct/10 with Steve Gibbs

First HVS onsight! Good climbing & better protected than it looks.
aipattison - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10 with UBMC

loved this route. Even though its a tad loose at the top i dont think its all that bad that it detracts from the climbing. lovely and steep
stvredmond - 2nd - 02/Oct/10 with Toby Dunford

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/10

Bit of a one move wonder but well protected, although the Saruman crux is on the climb.Some loose feeling stuff at the top
PaulWatson - 2nd O/S - 22/Jun/10 with Ben

Hidden - 2nd - 30/May/10

Doesn't deserve a star. Top is a choss heap waiting to fall down. Felt like a climbing Jenga game - you just have to make sure you don't remove the wrong block!
Chris Sansum - Lead O/S - 30/May/10 with Andy Flynn

bpmclimb - Lead dog - 24/May/10 with Mark

not sure where the star came from - possibly a bit more stable in the past. what could be an enjoyable climb was no more appealing than pulling on loose blocks.
andy dunn - Lead β - 27/Apr/10 with Tom, J

wildrover220 - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/10 with Niall Lusby

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Apr/10

Tomar - 2nd - 27/Mar/10 with "Brosky"

deklan - 2nd - 24/May/09 with alex

jon bradley - 03/May/09

timstyles - 2nd β - 03/May/09 with Jon Bradley

a little bit go-y or something...
AlexD - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/09 with joeurwin

joeurwin - 2nd O/S - 19/Apr/09 with alex

nice
evhall - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/09 with SM

Hidden - TR - 22/Feb/09

Allmost fell on the crux
Protheroe - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/08 with Alyssa Jacob belayer, Dave Radley 2nd

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/08

Al Franks - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/08 with Emma Ross

Alasdair88 - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/08 with Emma Ross

Hidden - Lead - 14/May/08

How frustrating: fell just after making the crux move out of the blind groove. Got the right finger jam in the crack and the left hand placed; sorted the foot positions; went for the high hold and found it easily; got the other hand on it; made the high left foot placement and then tried to go for a higher handhold. Fingers slipped and I fell a few feet, not sure how far exactly, but enough to pick up a rope burn on the wrist and a few small bruises elsewhere. Now fully energised I went straight back up to the crux, swearing profusely at all and sundry and this time rocked over onto that high left foot and found the massive jug wide to the left. This is a great route for stretching your technique; you can do it with brute strength if you have it, but develop the footwork and it just lets you go. I will be back to lead this cleanly sometime soon.
Humpty Dangler - Lead dog - 06/May/08 with Jay

one fall/slip and not very graceful. one to go back to
mattf77 - Lead - 09/Mar/08 with toby+tom

Ybot Htulk - 2nd - Mar/08 with Tom Dixon and mat

Hidden - TR - 10/Feb/08

Hidden - TR - 10/Feb/08

Harder than Disaster Area. Difficult move is at 5 metres; having left the relative ease of Saruman, found the jug and the hidden foothold, stepped across to the 'blind groove', (more like half an ice-cream scoop), you then have to climb out of it. The key for me was a wide-left foothold at shoulder height; a bit of nervous shuffling upwards on thin, slippery footholds, with the fingers unpeeling from a full stretch hold and with a surge it was mine. Slipped off the first time, despite having correctly identified the sequence of moves required from ground observation, (dammit), then made the move without a problem and the rest of the route was easy. And what a fantastic place to be. A thin, triangular tower, tapering to a spike pinnacle with a sublime belay stance just behind.
Humpty Dangler - 2nd dog - 26/Jan/08 with Jordan Lane

Hidden - Lead dog - 26/Jan/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2008

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Oct/07

jw231 - Lead O/S - Oct/07 with nblackbeard

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 29/Aug/07

Matt Tranter - Aug/07

deklan - Aug/07

Awesome route, loved it. Not too hard, gear was good, but take lots of micros :)
mrtom - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/07 with Camilla Clifford

camillaclifford - 2nd dog - 17/Jun/07 with mrtom

bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 26/May/07 with Clare

Hidden - Lead rpt - 10/Mar/07

Hidden - TR - 03/Mar/07

Fat Tim - Lead O/S - 17/Dec/06 with Nick Ingram

First fall on an outdoor climb - took a real whipper on this and could not continue. Climbing well until that point, determined to go back and finish it off soon!
Matty - Lead dnf - 23/Jul/06 with Vicky Spencer

Boxy - Lead β - 17/Jun/06

Tamlyn - Lead O/S - 14/May/06 with Dave V

Siderunner - 2nd O/S - 06/May/06 with Jill

James Moyle - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/06 with R.Nelson

beardy mike - 2006 with Gareth Wood

Bristoldave - Lead rpt - 2006

cat22 - 2nd dog - 2005 with Will S

gaz.marshall - Lead O/S - Aug/04 with Luke

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/04

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Feb/04

Hidden - Lead - 21/Feb/04

Hidden - Lead - 18/Oct/03

The Pylon King - Lead O/S - Oct/03 with Laura

Hidden - Lead - Mar/00

cornishben - Lead O/S - 2000

cem - Lead O/S - Mar/99 with Gordon Carder

Stone Muppet - 1999 with cc

Jon Didymus - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/94 with Rongor

jim_randell - TR rpt - 06/Nov/93

NeilGriffiths - Lead - 11/Oct/93 with jackie

jim_randell - TR O/S - 18/Jul/92

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Jonathan Storey, Alan100, Ewan Richards

Voting
Total votes cast 105
hard E10 of 37
E10 of 37
easy E10 of 37
hard HVS19 of 37
HVS14 of 37
easy HVS2 of 37
hard VS2 of 37
VS0 of 37
easy VS0 of 37
hard 5b0 of 35
5b0 of 35
easy 5b1 of 35
hard 5a9 of 35
5a22 of 35
easy 5a2 of 35
hard 4c1 of 35
4c0 of 35
easy 4c0 of 35
3 Stars1 of 33
2 Stars2 of 33
1 Star25 of 33
0 Stars3 of 33
Bag of .....2 of 33
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