East Buttress** 5.10b
[Having a break on El capitan, 2 kb]460m, 11 pitches. More a long trad route than a big wall route. E1,5B according to Duncan Critchley. Good to link up with Moratorium whose finish lands you almost at the start of the East Buttress.
Frank Sacherer FFA July 1964 01/Jun/1953

Photo: Having a break on El capitan © Peter Milner
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This climb is in 62 logbooks, and on 20 wishlists.

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/May/15

mrteale - AltLd O/S - 13/Oct/14 with alook

alooker - AltLd O/S - 13/Oct/14 with Ed

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Oct/14

Ahab - AltLd O/S - Oct/14

guy757 - 30/Sep/14

Neil Adams - AltLd O/S - 13/Sep/13 with Ross B

MonkeyDawson - Lead - May/13 with Simon Smith

jcw - 2013

Most of the 5.9 is harder than the 5.10b! Fantastic varied climbing, although route-finding a little trickier than expected if you're first on the crag...
PeteH - AltLd O/S - 13/Oct/12 with Naomi Hart

khawk - AltLd O/S - 08/Oct/12 with WW

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Oct/12

6hr 45 (including 1hr 30 on a spicy 'alternative' pitch halfway up)... Amazing route!
Adam Booth - AltLd O/S - 28/Sep/12 with Tom Fenwick

Amazing! Up at 4am, worth it to be first team on route. Just under 7hrs. Th 'mental' crux pitch was probably the best pitch I've ever done!
fennerz - AltLd O/S - 28/Sep/12 with Adam Booth

Maija slipped once
tuukka - AltLd - 16/Sep/12 with Maija

Hidden - AltLd - 29/May/12

farmus21 - AltLd - 13/Oct/11 with Sam Radcliffe

samrad - AltLd - 13/Oct/11 with james G

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Sep/11

stuart34 - AltLd O/S - 20/Sep/11 with Kim Ladiges

Hidden - Lead - 06/Sep/11

peppermill - 2nd O/S - Sep/11 with Simon Bennett

A fantastic day, which certainly lived up to my expectations. Leading the long and lonely 'psycho crux' pitch high on the headwall is one of my most memorable climbing experiences so far. Took a small fall on the 5.9 chimney starting pitch - my fault for not dangling my rucksac from my harness. Pretty awkward wearing it. We were equipped to spend a night out on top, but managed to hitch a ride with a valley regular hiking down in the dark. Best route of the trip - but we only just got on it in time: saw notices warning of dangerous rockfall the day after.
Andy Clarke - AltLd - 10/Oct/10 with Tim

markalmack - AltLd rpt - 23/Sep/10 with Eric Perlman

Barry Kerslake - 2nd O/S - 10/Sep/10 with Luke F

Bern - AltLd - Sep/10 with Richard White

Geraldine Roso - AltLd - 26/Jul/10

Geraldine Roso - AltLd - 26/Jul/10

Julesthe1st - AltLd O/S - 07/Oct/09 with Simon

got a late start hoping to miss rush hour, ended up waiting soo long at every belay. worth it though
simon kimber - AltLd O/S - Oct/09 with Jules

Slightly overrated. Left camp 4 in the dark and still we were the 4th team to start...
AdrianP - AltLd O/S - 16/Sep/09 with Olli

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Sep/09

Hidden - Sep/09

Excellent route in a prime position.
Bern - AltLd O/S - Sep/09 with Andy Mos

alex_arthur - AltLd - 04/Jul/09

Hidden - Jul/09

Popped on the 10b move!
al99 - AltLd dog - 26/May/09 with Alex Malins

Hidden - AltLd dog - 26/May/09

alasdair19 - AltLd dnf - 2009

nickcanute - AltLd - Oct/08 with tim parkinson

popped on the 10b move off the belay.
markalmack - AltLd dog - Sep/08

C coldwell-storry - AltLd - Sep/08 with Neil Chelton

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Sep/07

Good day route , alone on the wall! , but super hot and really dehydrated by the end of it.. fixed ab ropes on the ledges descent helped alot:)
Christian Beck - AltLd - 2007

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Sep/06

French Erick - AltLd O/S - Oct/05 with Dave Kerr

Dave Kerr - AltLd - Oct/05 with Erick Baillot

Hidden - Oct/05

datoon - AltLd O/S - 30/Sep/05 with DR

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Sep/04

akhughes - AltLd O/S - Sep/04 with Steptoe

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Sep/03

Hidden - AltLd - 2001

Brilliant route, the cruz first pitch wakes you up but can be frenched! The traverse cross head wall pitch particularly memorable. Off width pitch good, take a friend 5 or its would be scary
Simonfarfaraway - AltLd - Jul/00 with Steve Hastings

dan gibson - Lead O/S - Sep/99 with helen gibson

Hidden - Aug/97

Roget - AltLd O/S - 27/Sep/94 with baccy

Mike Owen - 20/Nov/93 with Elaine Owen

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/87 with Jeff ?

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Sep/81

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 17/Jul/81 with Russ Eyles

The famous pitch is excellent, the whole route is not too hard and makes a good day out. And you get to find where the rappel descent route goes.
petemeads - AltLd - Oct/75 with Mick Brady

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
will_lake, druss, John Procter, Col Kingshott, misterb, JanBella, Felix Ottey, Zumoid, jonnybull, PeteH, tommytuffa, DavidR, HIGHTOWER

Total votes cast 18
hard 5.10c0 of 8
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easy 5.10c0 of 8
hard 5.10b0 of 8
5.10b5 of 8
easy 5.10b3 of 8
hard 5.10a0 of 8
5.10a0 of 8
easy 5.10a0 of 8
3 Stars9 of 10
2 Stars1 of 10
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
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