460m, 11 pitches. More a long trad route than a big wall route. E1,5B according to Duncan Critchley. Good to link up with Moratorium whose finish lands you almost at the start of the East Buttress.

Frank Sacherer FFA July 1964 01/Jun/1953

Andy Moles 19/Oct AltLd O/S
with Ferdia
Hidden 05/May AltLd O/S
mrteale 13/Oct/14 AltLd O/S
with alook
alooker 13/Oct/14 AltLd O/S
with Ed
Hidden 01/Oct/14 AltLd
Ahab ?/Oct/14 AltLd O/S
guy757 30/Sep/14 -
Neil Adams 13/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
with Ross B
MonkeyDawson ?/May/13 Lead
with Simon Smith
jcw ??/2013 -
PeteH 13/Oct/12 AltLd O/S

Most of the 5.9 is harder than the 5.10b! Fantastic varied climbing, although route-finding a little trickier than expected if you're first on the crag...

khawk 08/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
with WW
Hidden 01/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
Adam Booth 28/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

6hr 45 (including 1hr 30 on a spicy 'alternative' pitch halfway up)... Amazing route!

fennerz 28/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Amazing! Up at 4am, worth it to be first team on route. Just under 7hrs. Th 'mental' crux pitch was probably the best pitch I've ever done!

tuukka 16/Sep/12 AltLd

Maija slipped once

with Maija
Hidden 29/May/12 AltLd
farmus21 13/Oct/11 AltLd
with Sam Radcliffe
samrad 13/Oct/11 AltLd
with james G
Hidden 29/Sep/11 2nd
stuart34 20/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
with Kim Ladiges
Hidden 06/Sep/11 Lead
peppermill ?/Sep/11 2nd O/S
with Simon Bennett
Andy Clarke 10/Oct/10 AltLd

A fantastic day, which certainly lived up to my expectations. Leading the long and lonely 'psycho crux' pitch high on the headwall is one of my most memorable climbing experiences so far. Took a small fall on the 5.9 chimney starting pitch - my fault for not dangling my rucksac from my harness. Pretty awkward wearing it. We were equipped to spend a night out on top, but managed to hitch a ride with a valley regular hiking down in the dark. Best route of the trip - but we only just got on it in time: saw notices warning of dangerous rockfall the day after.

with Tim
markalmack 23/Sep/10 AltLd rpt
with Eric Perlman
Barry Kerslake 10/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with Luke F
Bern ?/Sep/10 AltLd
Geraldine Roso 26/Jul/10 AltLd
Geraldine Roso 26/Jul/10 AltLd
Julesthe1st 07/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
with Simon
simon kimber ?/Oct/09 AltLd O/S

got a late start hoping to miss rush hour, ended up waiting soo long at every belay. worth it though

with Jules
AdrianP 16/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

Slightly overrated. Left camp 4 in the dark and still we were the 4th team to start...

with Olli
Hidden 03/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/09 -
Bern ?/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

Excellent route in a prime position.

with Andy Mos
alex_arthur 04/Jul/09 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/09 -
al99 26/May/09 AltLd dog

Popped on the 10b move!

Hidden 26/May/09 AltLd dog
alasdair19 ??/2009 AltLd dnf
nickcanute ?/Oct/08 AltLd
with tim parkinson
markalmack ?/Sep/08 AltLd dog

popped on the 10b move off the belay.

C coldwell-storry ?/Sep/08 AltLd
with Neil Chelton
Hidden ?/Sep/07 2nd O/S
Christian Beck ??/2007 AltLd

Good day route , alone on the wall! , but super hot and really dehydrated by the end of it.. fixed ab ropes on the ledges descent helped alot:)

Hidden 15/Sep/06 AltLd O/S
French Erick ?/Oct/05 AltLd O/S
Dave Kerr ?/Oct/05 AltLd
with Erick Baillot
Hidden ?/Oct/05 -
datoon 30/Sep/05 AltLd O/S
with DR
Hidden 26/Sep/04 AltLd
akhughes ?/Sep/04 AltLd O/S
with Steptoe
Hidden ?/Sep/03 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2001 AltLd
Simonfarfaraway ?/Jul/00 AltLd

Brilliant route, the cruz first pitch wakes you up but can be frenched! The traverse cross head wall pitch particularly memorable. Off width pitch good, take a friend 5 or its would be scary

with Steve Hastings
dan gibson ?/Sep/99 Lead O/S
with helen gibson
Hidden ?/Aug/97 -
Roget 27/Sep/94 AltLd O/S
with baccy
Mike Owen 20/Nov/93 -
with Elaine Owen
Paula Hamilton-Gibson 12/Sep/87 AltLd O/S
with Jeff ?
Hidden ?/Sep/81 AltLd O/S
Mark Kemball 17/Jul/81 AltLd
with Russ Eyles
petemeads ?/Oct/75 AltLd

The famous pitch is excellent, the whole route is not too hard and makes a good day out. And you get to find where the rappel descent route goes.

with Mick Brady
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
will_lake, Hidden, Hidden, druss, Hidden, John Procter, Col Kingshott, misterb, JanBella, Felix Ottey, Zumoid, jonnybull, Hidden, PeteH, tommytuffa, Hidden, DavidR, Hidden, HIGHTOWER, Hidden
High 5.10c
Mid 5.10c
Low 5.10c
High 5.10b
Mid 5.10b
Low 5.10b
High 5.10a
Mid 5.10a
Low 5.10a
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 10
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set