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Forbes Arete*** AD

Adjacent Climbs
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Migot Spur >>
[Forbes Arete, Aiguille Du Chardonnet, 2 kb]Classic ridge traverse. From the Albert Premier, cross the Glacier du Tour in about 2 hours. Climb up the snow slope (50-60 degrees) to make way over bergshrund. Up a bit and then climb the snowy ridge on right to the "Bosse" then up towards the skyline ridge (1.5-2 hours from base of climb). Follow the ridge to the summit. One 6-8 meter section of horizontal ice traversing towards the latter stages of the ridge. About 3-5 hours on the ridge. Descend via the NW Ridge route
Paul Sisley with Maurice and Joseph Crettez 10/Aug/1899

Ticklists: Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif, Top quality Alps under 4000m.

Photo: Forbes Arete, Aiguille Du Chardonnet © kenhansard
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 110 logbooks, and on 62 wishlists.

Moved together. Couple of pitches near snowy saddles and last gendarme. Very soft snow and white out, felt like Scotland.
ollyroberts - AltLd - 23/Aug/14 with Piers Newton

With James Holland, in descent, no abseils.
Roberttaylor - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/14

fresh snow - ridge corniced - climbed ridge in sun then descended into cloud then snow and finally whiteout. Only two other climbers out doing migot spur that day meet on ridge . Very slow due to conditions 18hrs hut to hut !!
greenclimb - Lead - 14/Aug/14 with Sarah

Hidden - AltLd - 14/Aug/14

2hrs 40mins from hut to ridge. 1hr 45 mins to the summit. Good snow conditions.
chapmand - AltLd O/S - 17/Jul/14 with Guy Wilson

Michael - 2014

Hidden - 2014

JHolland - 2014

Hidden - 2014

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Sep/13

oliverk - 15/Sep/13 with Marty

on the simul
tskelhon - AltLd - Sep/13 with Charlotte

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/13

Hidden - 06/Aug/13

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Aug/13

First route of the trip so found it hard work. Great route though. Snow was in good nick. One tricky section on the arÍte where snow step had disappeared requiring belay. Otherwise all moving together.
monsteratt - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/13 with Nick Whimster

moved together, felt sick on the top as first route of trip.
nickwhimster - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/13 with monsteratt

Hidden - 13/Jul/13

Hidden - Jul/13

jcw - 2013

Cham32 - 2013

walts4 - 2013

Hot dry summer created very icy conditions this year, particularly on descent. Had single 60m rope as guide refers to 30m ab - suggest taking double 50m ropes to quickly and safely descend. Long day but a great route! Climbed with my son Ben.
Chris_Cole - 11/Aug/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/12

Ewan Russell - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/12 with steve(friend of james wilson), james wilson

Wils - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/12 with Steven Broadhurst, Ewan Russell

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/12

15 hours hut to hut, accidentally abbed the charlet-bettembourg with only 1 rope
HarryB - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/12 with Alex Tibbs

Beautiful climb, quite grueling. Took the wrong descent, which required about 10m of tat.
abtibbs - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/12 with Harry Bloxham

Steve Woollard - AltLd - 05/Jul/12 with Kevin Colclough, Steve Price

Bailed down north face shortly before summit as clouds were rolling in & was getting late. Of course, they disappeared soon after!
maria85 - AltLd dnf - 27/Jun/12 with Jules

Hidden - 23/Jun/12

Hidden - 2012

Laramadness - 2012

Hidden - 17/Aug/11

13 hrs hut to hut (bivi out side the hut), left about an hour after the hut based teams, stuck behind 4 parties on the ridge. Great route.
Somerset swede basher - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/11 with Andy Kennedy

Alpandy - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/11 with Dom

Kris - 10/Aug/11

Jack Doyle - 01/Aug/11 with Padraig, Derek

cooper-knock
brighters - AltLd O/S - Aug/11

Uisdean hawthorn - Aug/11

Steve Marner
kenneM - AltLd - 20/Jul/11 with Steve Marner

TimPerkin - AltLd O/S - 10/Jul/11 with Nick King, Derek Buckle

18 hours round trip, got caught in bad storm on descent which made things tricky...
tscoobydoo - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/11 with scott swalling

Hidden - 02/Jul/11

Horrendous conditions, 45hrs valley to valley, I forced shiver bivi on the decent, couldnt find couloir in dark. Great route.
liamo333 - Jun/11

Hidden - 2011

moved together for whole route, 8hrs hut, summit and back down
stuart34 - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/10 with Kim Ladiges

mark-abz - 01/Aug/10 with Alex

Andy Graham - AltLd - Aug/10 with Tom Pearson

Not hard but turned out to be very long. 2hrs to the start of the route, just under 2hrs to the arete, 6hrs on the arete to the summit, 5hrs for the descent, 15.5hrs in total including about an hour of rests. Started at 3.30am from an excellent bivvy outside the Albert 1er (woke up at 2am), got back to the bivvy at 7pm. Good neve to the ridge after a cold night but slushy snow on the descent. It had snowed two days earlier so the ridge was in mixed condition (cracks were dry but plenty of snow on ledges), so crampons on all the way. Advantage was having footsteps to follow from a couple of parties that were (well) ahead of us. Particularly useful on the descent between the end of the snow couloir and the abs. Good weather except for cloud coming in temporarily on the descent and a bitterly cold Northerly wind. Had originally planned to do the Aig du Tour the following day, then go over to the Trient and do the Aig Dorees the next day but were too tired to get up early and so were sdhappy to go back down after a slow breakfast at the bivvy followed by an omelette at the Albert 1er.
Misha - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/10 with Dave Commins

Hidden - 03/Jul/10

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/10

JonHarvey - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/09 with James Howell, Jay Jackson

Hidden - Aug/09

blouise - Aug/09 with James Gordon

Dave Latimer - AltLd - Aug/09

Fantastic route very exciting right on my limit...11hrs total
Gav Parker - 2nd - 14/Jul/09

Glyn - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/09 with David Fountain

davefount - AltLd O/S - Jul/09 with Glyn

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 22/Jun/09

BenJacobs - AltLd dnf - 22/Jun/09 with Steve and Ollie

barksmo - AltLd - 2009

liz j - 02/Sep/08 with Matt Dickinson/Karin Burnett

garethsteel - AltLd O/S - Sep/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/08

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 09/Aug/08

Hidden - Aug/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/08

First route after arriving in Cham.
HamishD - AltLd - Jul/08 with chris burn, Richard Hirons, Lou Atkin

benclimbing - AltLd O/S - Jul/08 with Gareth Steel

Hidden - 2nd - Jun/08

Hit by a thunderstorm whilst abseiling down the W Ridge. Scariest Alpine experience - so far!
Peter Metcalfe - 17/Sep/07 with Sophia

Rob84 - Lead - 19/Aug/07 with Stephen Bond and MBC Steve

spbond - 2nd - 19/Aug/07 with Steve, Rob Dyer

QMD! Finally made it to a summit that had evaded me for some time. Brilliant route as well despite the fresh snow and scary seracs on the first section before the 'Bosse'.
adamscottthomas - 04/Aug/07 with Chris Sloan

chrissloan84 - 04/Aug/07 with adamscottthomas

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Jul/07

Stuart Johnston - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/07 with g taylor

drysori - Jul/07

Hidden - Jul/06

gripped01 - AltLd - Jul/06 with Dave Tait

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Sep/05

First day out, got hypothermic crossing the glacier in clothing that was too lite. Back to hut and a long, lazy day talking about the next day. Next day, as we were leaving the hut at 12:30 a.m. a group is coming in from having left at 4:30 the previous morning! Can't remember exactly but think they were Spanish. They got way off the ridge on the south side, they did not seem that much worse for wear though... We made it to the climb and onto the ridge in about 3 hours from the hut. We lost time on the ridge using too much of a pitch approach instead of simul-climbing. Had an idiotic party overtake on the horizontal ice traverse and I went ballistic on them at the short rappel that follows. Stupid, they didn't care at all that what they had done put my life in jeopardy. Finished up and had an easy descent into the waiting sunshine of the Glacier du Tour below. 12 hours hut to hut.
Yyonnx - 12/Jul/05 with Doog

Wow, long route.Bivi in Signall Reilley (sp?) the night before. Very dehydrated by the top.Descent and jumping the schrund at the bottom was entertaining.
Mat J - AltLd - Jul/05 with Ali

mike.moss - Lead O/S - 2004

joe king - Jun/03 with steve petit

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 15/Jul/02

Lenny - AltLd O/S - Aug/97 with Richard

stokesrees - AltLd - Jun/97 with Francois Marcotte

Bivvied on the rognon. The first route we ever did in under guide book time! Take two ropes for the absail on the descent (we didn't!).
andy_pemberton - Jul/95 with Jon Scorer

Hidden - Solo - 1994

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Aug/93

Richard Weller - Aug/93 with Simon Currin

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/92

garywalker147 - AltLd - 1992

Jamie Simpson - AltLd O/S - Aug/91 with Gavin Maclean

ChrisJD - AltLd - Jul/91 with TimSp

Dave - AltLd - 1991

Three star classic.
Pete_Frost - AltLd - Jul/90

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Jul/89

Hidden - Jul/89

Took us a long time. 2hrs to the start of the route, just under 2hrs to the arÍte, 5hrs on the arÍte to the summit, 6hrs for the descent, 15:30hrs in total including about an hour of rests. Started at 3.30am from an excellent bivvy outside the Albert 1er (woke up at 2am), got back to the bivvy at 7pm. Good neve to the ridge after a cold night but slushy snow on the descent. The ridge was in mixed condition (cracks were dry but plenty of snow on ledges), so crampons on all the way. Advantage was having footsteps to follow from a couple of parties that were (well) ahead of us. Massive struggle on the descent, I stood on my hand (with crampons on) and fell down the couloir for about 100ft. Getting off the bottom of the couloir across the bergshrund and on to the glacier proved problematical, and then the traverse back to the Albert 1er was a nightmare. We lost the path and had to walk roped. We didnít actually fall into any crevasses, but stood through the snow covered tops of a few. I was so tired that I wanted to lie down and go to sleep! Had originally planned to do the Aig du Tour the following day, but we were too tired to get up early so had a lie in and walked back to the valley in the afternoon. Great trip though!
BigHairyIan - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/88 with Guy Summers

davemhart - AltLd O/S - 03/Aug/84

Hidden - Aug/84

Al was suffering from the altitude higher up.
Falko - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/80 with Al W.

Bivvied on Summit
Andy Chubb - AltLd - 02/Jul/77 with Pete Coghill

Steve Woollard - Lead - 17/Aug/74 with Andrew Huch, Malcolm Parker

Bolt Phobia - AltLd - Jul/74

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Voting
Total votes cast 25
hard AD+0 of 7
AD+0 of 7
easy AD+0 of 7
hard AD4 of 7
AD2 of 7
easy AD1 of 7
hard AD-0 of 7
AD-0 of 7
easy AD-0 of 7
3 Stars18 of 18
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 110 (0.9%)
Lead9 of 110 (8.2%)
Followed3 of 110 (2.7%)
Alt Leads58 of 110 (52.7%)
Unknown39 of 110 (35.5%)

'Climbed'68 of 110 (61.8%)
clean O/S37 of 110 (33.6%)
dnf5 of 110 (4.5%)