Hot dry summer created very icy conditions this year, particularly on descent. Had single 60m rope as guide refers to 30m ab - suggest taking double 50m ropes to quickly and safely descend. Long day but a great route! Climbed with my son Ben.
Chris_Cole - 11/Aug/12
Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/12
Ewan Russell - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/12 with steve(friend of james wilson), james wilson
climb_this - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/12 with Steven Broadhurst, Ewan Russell
LewisGray - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/12 with Ollie Hemstock
15 hours hut to hut, accidentally abbed the charlet-bettembourg with only 1 rope
HarryB - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/12 with Alex Tibbs
Beautiful climb, quite grueling. Took the wrong descent, which required about 10m of tat.
abtibbs - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/12 with Harry Bloxham
Steve Woollard - AltLd - 05/Jul/12 with Kevin Colclough, Steve Price
Bailed down north face shortly before summit as clouds were rolling in & was getting late. Of course, they disappeared soon after!
maria85 - AltLd dnf - 27/Jun/12 with Jules
Hidden - 23/Jun/12
Hidden - 2012
Laramadness - 2012
Hidden - 17/Aug/11
13 hrs hut to hut (bivi out side the hut), left about an hour after the hut based teams, stuck behind 4 parties on the ridge. Great route.
Somerset swede basher - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/11 with Andy Kennedy
Alpandy - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/11 with Dom
Kris - 10/Aug/11
Jack Doyle - 01/Aug/11 with Padraig, Derek
Uisdean hawthorn - Aug/11
TimPerkin - AltLd O/S - 10/Jul/11 with Nick King, Derek Buckle
18 hours round trip, got caught in bad storm on descent which made things tricky...
tscoobydoo - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/11 with scott swalling
Bradders - 02/Jul/11
Horrendous conditions, 45hrs valley to valley, I forced shiver bivi on the decent, couldnt find couloir in dark. Great route.
liamo333 - Jun/11
moved together for whole route, 8hrs hut, summit and back down
stuart34 - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/10 with Kim Ladiges
mark-abz - 01/Aug/10 with Alex
Andy Graham - AltLd - Aug/10 with Tom Pearson
Not hard but turned out to be very long. 2hrs to the start of the route, just under 2hrs to the arete, 6hrs on the arete to the summit, 5hrs for the descent, 15.5hrs in total including about an hour of rests. Started at 3.30am from an excellent bivvy outside the Albert 1er (woke up at 2am), got back to the bivvy at 7pm. Good neve to the ridge after a cold night but slushy snow on the descent. It had snowed two days earlier so the ridge was in mixed condition (cracks were dry but plenty of snow on ledges), so crampons on all the way. Advantage was having footsteps to follow from a couple of parties that were (well) ahead of us. Particularly useful on the descent between the end of the snow couloir and the abs. Good weather except for cloud coming in temporarily on the descent and a bitterly cold Northerly wind. Had originally planned to do the Aig du Tour the following day, then go over to the Trient and do the Aig Dorees the next day but were too tired to get up early and so were sdhappy to go back down after a slow breakfast at the bivvy followed by an omelette at the Albert 1er.
Misha - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/10 with Dave Commins
Hidden - 03/Jul/10
Hidden - AltLd - Jul/10
JonHarvey - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/09 with James Howell, Jay Jackson
Hidden - Aug/09
blouise - Aug/09 with James Gordon
Fantastic route very exciting right on my limit...11hrs total
Gav Parker - 2nd - 14/Jul/09
Glyn - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/09 with David Fountain
davefount - AltLd O/S - Jul/09 with Glyn
Hidden - AltLd dnf - 22/Jun/09
BenJacobs - AltLd dnf - 22/Jun/09 with Steve and Ollie
barksmo - AltLd - 2009
Hidden - 02/Sep/08
garethsteel - AltLd O/S - Sep/08
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/08
Hidden - AltLd dnf - 09/Aug/08
Hidden - Aug/08
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/08
First route after arriving in Cham.
HamishD - AltLd - Jul/08 with chris burn, Richard Hirons, Lou Atkin
Hidden - 2nd - Jun/08
Hit by a thunderstorm whilst abseiling down the W Ridge. Scariest Alpine experience - so far!
Peter Metcalfe - 17/Sep/07 with Sophia
Rob84 - Lead - 19/Aug/07 with Stephen Bond and MBC Steve
spbond - 2nd - 19/Aug/07 with Steve, Rob Dyer
QMD! Finally made it to a summit that had evaded me for some time. Brilliant route as well despite the fresh snow and scary seracs on the first section before the 'Bosse'.
adamscottthomas - 04/Aug/07 with Chris Sloan
chrissloan84 - 04/Aug/07 with adamscottthomas
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Jul/07
Stuart Johnston - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/07 with g taylor
Wil Treasure - Jul/07
Hidden - Jul/06
gripped01 - AltLd - Jul/06 with Dave Tait
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Sep/05
First day out, got hypothermic crossing the glacier in clothing that was too lite. Back to hut and a long, lazy day talking about the next day. Next day, as we were leaving the hut at 12:30 a.m. a group is coming in from having left at 4:30 the previous morning! Can't remember exactly but think they were Spanish. They got way off the ridge on the south side, they did not seem that much worse for wear though...
We made it to the climb and onto the ridge in about 3 hours from the hut. We lost time on the ridge using too much of a pitch approach instead of simul-climbing. Had an idiotic party overtake on the horizontal ice traverse and I went ballistic on them at the short rappel that follows. Stupid, they didn't care at all that what they had done put my life in jeopardy. Finished up and had an easy descent into the waiting sunshine of the Glacier du Tour below. 12 hours hut to hut.
Yyonnx - 12/Jul/05 with Doog
Wow, long route.Bivi in Signall Reilley (sp?) the night before. Very dehydrated by the top.Descent and jumping the schrund at the bottom was entertaining.
Mat J - AltLd - Jul/05 with Ali
mike.moss - Lead O/S - 2004
joe king - Jun/03 with steve petit
Mike - AltLd dnf - 15/Jul/02 with Stew Boyce
Lenny - AltLd O/S - Aug/97 with Richard
stokesrees - AltLd - Jun/97 with Francois Marcotte
Hidden - Solo - 1994
Hidden - AltLd - 08/Aug/93
Richard Weller - Aug/93 with Simon Currin
Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/92
garywalker147 - AltLd - 1992
Jamie Simpson - AltLd O/S - Aug/91 with Gavin Maclean
ChrisJD - AltLd - Jul/91 with TimSp
Three star classic.
Pete_Frost - AltLd - Jul/90
Hidden - AltLd - 18/Jul/89
Took us a long time. 2hrs to the start of the route, just under 2hrs to the arête, 5hrs on the arête to the summit, 6hrs for the descent, 15:30hrs in total including about an hour of rests. Started at 3.30am from an excellent bivvy outside the Albert 1er (woke up at 2am), got back to the bivvy at 7pm. Good neve to the ridge after a cold night but slushy snow on the descent. The ridge was in mixed condition (cracks were dry but plenty of snow on ledges), so crampons on all the way. Advantage was having footsteps to follow from a couple of parties that were (well) ahead of us. Massive struggle on the descent, I stood on my hand (with crampons on) and fell down the couloir for about 100ft. Getting off the bottom of the couloir across the bergshrund and on to the glacier proved problematical, and then the traverse back to the Albert 1er was a nightmare. We lost the path and had to walk roped. We didn’t actually fall into any crevasses, but stood through the snow covered tops of a few. I was so tired that I wanted to lie down and go to sleep!
Had originally planned to do the Aig du Tour the following day, but we were too tired to get up early so had a lie in and walked back to the valley in the afternoon. Great trip though!
BigHairyIan - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/88 with Guy Summers
davemhart - AltLd O/S - 03/Aug/84
Hidden - Aug/84
Al was suffering from the altitude higher up.
Falko - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/80 with Al W.
Bivvied on Summit
Andy Chubb - AltLd - 02/Jul/77 with Pete Coghill
Steve Woollard - Lead - 17/Aug/74 with Andrew Huch, Malcolm Parker
Bolt Phobia - AltLd - Jul/74