Classic ridge traverse.

From the Albert Premier, cross the Glacier du Tour in about 2 hours. Climb up the snow slope (50-60 degrees) to make way over bergshrund. Up a bit and then climb the snowy ridge on right to the "Bosse" then up towards the skyline ridge (1.5-2 hours from base of climb). Follow the ridge to the summit. One 6-8 meter section of horizontal ice traversing towards the latter stages of the ridge. About 3-5 hours on the ridge. Descend via the NW Ridge route

Paul Sisley with Maurice and Joseph Crettez 10/Aug/1899

Ticklists: Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif, Top quality Alps under 4000m.

Avinash Aujayeb 15/Jul/15 2nd
with ales cesen
HP9 13/Jul/15 2nd
with Tomo cesen
Hidden 05/Jul/15 2nd O/S
ianstevens 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Awesome route, appalling snow conditions which made for an "interesting" time. Bivi'd at the bottom of the first snow slope, which was in good nick, lulling us into a false sense of security. By the time we got up on the ridge proper the sun had begun to work its magic, and we battled slush to the summit as this seemed easier than reversing. Confronted with a couple of big cornices on the descent and the poor snow, we opted to abseil down a line of tat in no man's land. What felt like a million abseils later, including some rope jamming, prussicking and rope slicing, we found ourselves in the lower reaches of the Mignot Spur, which we descended, reaching the bergschrund around 8pm. By this point the snow had begun to solidify, as we teetered across a tiny (1m thick) snow bridge above the gaping crevasse which thankfully held. Made it to the bivi by 10pm, the Albert Prem by 11.45 and the lift by 2am. 18 hours en route, 22 on the go.

Mr Spoons 25/Jun/15 AltLd


with Vangelis Stavroulakis
MightyStew 11/May/15 AltLd dnf
with Ruslan Aizatulin
Hidden 29/Oct/14 AltLd
Dougbart 29/Oct/14 -

17hrs on the go, a lot of snow on the ridge.

with Iain
pow22 09/Sep/14 -
Hidden 08/Sep/14 -
Tim Rodgers 06/Sep/14 -
georgec 03/Sep/14 AltLd

Great classic alpine outing

ollyroberts 23/Aug/14 AltLd

Moved together. Couple of pitches near snowy saddles and last gendarme. Very soft snow and white out, felt like Scotland.

Roberttaylor 17/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

With James Holland, in descent, no abseils.

JHolland 17/Aug/14 -
greenclimb 14/Aug/14 Lead

fresh snow - ridge corniced - climbed ridge in sun then descended into cloud then snow and finally whiteout. Only two other climbers out doing migot spur that day meet on ridge . Very slow due to conditions 18hrs hut to hut !!

with Sarah
Hidden 14/Aug/14 AltLd
davkeo ?/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Midnight start. Big day moving fast.

chapmand 17/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

2hrs 40mins from hut to ridge. 1hr 45 mins to the summit. Good snow conditions.

Michael ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden 23/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
oliverk 15/Sep/13 -
with Marty
tskelhon ?/Sep/13 AltLd

on the simul

clmacdonald ?/Sep/13 AltLd
Hidden 06/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Aug/13 -
Hidden 05/Aug/13 AltLd
monsteratt 22/Jul/13 Lead O/S

First route of the trip so found it hard work. Great route though. Snow was in good nick. One tricky section on the arÍte where snow step had disappeared requiring belay. Otherwise all moving together.

with Nick Whimster
nickwhimster 22/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

moved together, felt sick on the top as first route of trip.

thegoatstroker 13/Jul/13 -

Lovely route, great nick

with Chris Cox
Hidden ?/Jul/13 -
jcw ??/2013 -
Cham32 ??/2013 -
walts4 ??/2013 -
Hidden 11/Aug/12 2nd
Hidden 03/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Ewan Russell 27/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with steve(friend of james wilson), james wilson
Wils 27/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
HarryB 09/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

15 hours hut to hut, accidentally abbed the charlet-bettembourg with only 1 rope

abtibbs 09/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Beautiful climb, quite grueling. Took the wrong descent, which required about 10m of tat.

Steve Woollard 05/Jul/12 AltLd
maria85 27/Jun/12 AltLd dnf

Bailed down north face shortly before summit as clouds were rolling in & was getting late. Of course, they disappeared soon after!

with Jules
Hidden 23/Jun/12 -
nking100 ??/2012 -
Hidden 17/Aug/11 -
Somerset swede basher 12/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

13 hrs hut to hut (bivi out side the hut), left about an hour after the hut based teams, stuck behind 4 parties on the ridge. Great route.

with Andy Kennedy
Alpandy 12/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Dom
Kris 10/Aug/11 -
Hidden 01/Aug/11 -
brighters ?/Aug/11 AltLd O/S


Uisdean hawthorn ?/Aug/11 -
kenneM 20/Jul/11 AltLd

Steve Marner

with Steve Marner
TimPerkin 10/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Nick King, Derek Buckle
tscoobydoo 04/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

18 hours round trip, got caught in bad storm on descent which made things tricky...

with scott swalling
Hidden 02/Jul/11 -
liamo333 ?/Jun/11 -

Horrendous conditions, 45hrs valley to valley, I forced shiver bivi on the decent, couldnt find couloir in dark. Great route.

Hidden ??/2011 -
stuart34 09/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

moved together for whole route, 8hrs hut, summit and back down

with Kim Ladiges
mark-abz 01/Aug/10 -
with Alex
Andy Graham ?/Aug/10 AltLd
with Tom Pearson
Misha 25/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Not hard but turned out to be very long. 2hrs to the start of the route, just under 2hrs to the arete, 6hrs on the arete to the summit, 5hrs for the descent, 15.5hrs in total including about an hour of rests. Started at 3.30am from an excellent bivvy outside the Albert 1er (woke up at 2am), got back to the bivvy at 7pm. Good neve to the ridge after a cold night but slushy snow on the descent. It had snowed two days earlier so the ridge was in mixed condition (cracks were dry but plenty of snow on ledges), so crampons on all the way. Advantage was having footsteps to follow from a couple of parties that were (well) ahead of us. Particularly useful on the descent between the end of the snow couloir and the abs. Good weather except for cloud coming in temporarily on the descent and a bitterly cold Northerly wind. Had originally planned to do the Aig du Tour the following day, then go over to the Trient and do the Aig Dorees the next day but were too tired to get up early and so were sdhappy to go back down after a slow breakfast at the bivvy followed by an omelette at the Albert 1er.

with Dave Commins
Hidden 03/Jul/10 -
Hidden ?/Jul/10 AltLd
mussonlr 26/Jun/10 -
with Alan Stapleton
Guy Wilson ??/2010 -
JonHarvey 12/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with James Howell, Jay Jackson
Hidden ?/Aug/09 -
blouise ?/Aug/09 -
with James Gordon
Dave Latimer ?/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Gav Parker 14/Jul/09 2nd

Fantastic route very exciting right on my limit...11hrs total

Glyn 01/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
davefount ?/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
with Glyn
Hidden 22/Jun/09 AltLd dnf
BenJacobs 22/Jun/09 AltLd dnf
with Steve and Ollie
barksmo ??/2009 AltLd
liz j 02/Sep/08 -
with Matt Dickinson/Karin Burnett
garethsteel ?/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Aug/08 AltLd dnf
Hidden ?/Aug/08 -
Hidden 24/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
hamish2016 ?/Jul/08 AltLd

First route after arriving in Cham.

with chris burn, Richard Hirons, Lou Atkin
benclimbing ?/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
with Gareth Steel
Hidden ?/Jun/08 2nd
Peter Metcalfe 17/Sep/07 -

Hit by a thunderstorm whilst abseiling down the W Ridge. Scariest Alpine experience - so far!

with Sophia
Rob84 19/Aug/07 Lead
with Stephen Bond and MBC Steve
spbond 19/Aug/07 2nd
with Steve, Rob Dyer
adamscottthomas 04/Aug/07 -

QMD! Finally made it to a summit that had evaded me for some time. Brilliant route as well despite the fresh snow and scary seracs on the first section before the 'Bosse'.

chrissloan84 04/Aug/07 -
Hidden 29/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
Stuart Johnston 28/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
drysori ?/Jul/07 -
NickST ?/Jul/06 -

Excellent route!! Early start from the Albert Premeier hut saw us starting the rock section by sunrise. Great views, position and exposure!

with Sean Jacobs
gripped01 ?/Jul/06 AltLd
with Dave Tait
Hidden ?/Sep/05 AltLd O/S
Yyonnx 12/Jul/05 -

First day out, got hypothermic crossing the glacier in clothing that was too lite. Back to hut and a long, lazy day talking about the next day. Next day, as we were leaving the hut at 12:30 a.m. a group is coming in from having left at 4:30 the previous morning! Can't remember exactly but think they were Spanish. They got way off the ridge on the south side, they did not seem that much worse for wear though... We made it to the climb and onto the ridge in about 3 hours from the hut. We lost time on the ridge using too much of a pitch approach instead of simul-climbing. Had an idiotic party overtake on the horizontal ice traverse and I went ballistic on them at the short rappel that follows. Stupid, they didn't care at all that what they had done put my life in jeopardy. Finished up and had an easy descent into the waiting sunshine of the Glacier du Tour below. 12 hours hut to hut.

with Doog
Mat J ?/Jul/05 AltLd

Wow, long route.Bivi in Signall Reilley (sp?) the night before. Very dehydrated by the top.Descent and jumping the schrund at the bottom was entertaining.

with Ali
mike.moss ??/2004 Lead O/S
NickJH ?/Jul/03 Lead
joe king ?/Jun/03 -
with steve petit
Hidden 15/Jul/02 AltLd dnf
Laramadness 09/Jul/99 -
with JC
neal 05/Aug/98 AltLd

From tent on glacier

Lenny ?/Aug/97 AltLd O/S
with Richard
stokesrees ?/Jun/97 AltLd
with Francois Marcotte
Hidden ?/Jul/96 AltLd
andy_pemberton ?/Jul/95 -

Bivvied on the rognon. The first route we ever did in under guide book time! Take two ropes for the absail on the descent (we didn't!).

with Jon Scorer
Hidden ??/1994 Solo
Hidden 08/Aug/93 AltLd
Richard Weller ?/Aug/93 -
with Simon Currin
Hidden 24/Jul/92 Lead O/S
garywalker147 ??/1992 AltLd
Jamie Simpson ?/Aug/91 AltLd O/S
with Gavin Maclean
Hidden ?/Jul/91 AltLd
Tim Sparrow ?/Jul/91 -

Summit at dawn. Fantastic route. First alpine route that went really well.

with Chris D
Dave ??/1991 AltLd
Pete_Frost ?/Jul/90 AltLd

Three star classic.

Hidden ??/1990 -
Hidden 18/Jul/89 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/89 -
Chris Ellis 31/Jul/88 -
with Steve Legg, Andy Daykin, Rob Gale
BigHairyIan 30/Jul/88 AltLd O/S

Took us a long time. 2hrs to the start of the route, just under 2hrs to the arÍte, 5hrs on the arÍte to the summit, 6hrs for the descent, 15:30hrs in total including about an hour of rests. Started at 3.30am from an excellent bivvy outside the Albert 1er (woke up at 2am), got back to the bivvy at 7pm. Good neve to the ridge after a cold night but slushy snow on the descent. The ridge was in mixed condition (cracks were dry but plenty of snow on ledges), so crampons on all the way. Advantage was having footsteps to follow from a couple of parties that were (well) ahead of us. Massive struggle on the descent, I stood on my hand (with crampons on) and fell down the couloir for about 100ft. Getting off the bottom of the couloir across the bergshrund and on to the glacier proved problematical, and then the traverse back to the Albert 1er was a nightmare. We lost the path and had to walk roped. We didnít actually fall into any crevasses, but stood through the snow covered tops of a few. I was so tired that I wanted to lie down and go to sleep! Had originally planned to do the Aig du Tour the following day, but we were too tired to get up early so had a lie in and walked back to the valley in the afternoon. Great trip though!

davemhart 03/Aug/84 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/84 -
Falko 01/Jul/80 Lead O/S

Al was suffering from the altitude higher up.

with Al W.
Andy Chubb 02/Jul/77 AltLd

Bivvied on Summit

with Pete Coghill
Steve Bell ??/1977 -
Derek Ryden 14/Aug/75 AltLd O/S
with John Kirk
barksmo ?/Jul/75 AltLd
Steve Woollard 17/Aug/74 Lead
with Andrew Huch, Malcolm Parker
Bolt Phobia ?/Jul/74 AltLd
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