Frontier Ridge (Kuffner Ridge)*** D
[Antoine Pecher calmly navigating an exposed section on the Kuffner Arete, 3 kb]Classic ridge traverse.
The approach to the Col de la Fourche Hut can be in very bad nick and as an alternative, from the Torino Hut pass the snow/ice slope that leads up to the Col de la Fourche Hut and climb the snow/ice slope a bit further along (closer to the summit) that leads to the ridge.

From the Col de la Fourche Hut, follow the ridge and snowy snow slope to the snowy ridge that leads under Pt. de l'Androsace. 50 meter descending ice traverse to the left then contour around to snow gully that leads up towards skyline. Up through a bit of mixed climbing, right then back to the left on to the snowy cornice leading up the NE Ridge to the summit tower.
M. von Kuffner with A. Burgener, J Furrer and porter 02/Jul/1887

Ticklists: Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif, Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif.

Photo: Antoine Pecher calmly navigating an exposed section on the Kuffner Arete © hamishfrost
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This climb is in 128 logbooks, and on 107 wishlists.

Late season, very dry. What a route!
hamishfrost - 07/Sep/15

QuentinSu - AltLd O/S - 28/Jun/15

joelevanschamonix - 2015

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Sep/14

joe_lancs - AltLd - 15/Sep/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/14

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Aug/14

Hidden - 25/Aug/14

highlight of the trip
simondunf - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/14 with caspar

Cosy night with 16 people in the fourche(!) 6hrs from hut to maudit summit, Tim and I continued to Mont Blanc(2hrs) and then reversed 3 Monts to the midi(5hrs). Huge day, amazing exposed ridge. Moved as a slick three for all of kuffner. Great conditions and biggest distance/altitude covered to date!
ndraper1 - 08/Aug/14 with Tim, Joel Evans

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Aug/14
joelevanschamonix - 08/Aug/14 with ndraper1, Tim Oliver

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/14

Bivouac empty and cold! Excellent track up the route. Moved together apart from one short pitch beneath Androsace. Absolutely knackered by Tacul. Not a route to underestimate and not an easy one to escape off either. A four star experience. Tower ridge on steroids?
Tim Davies - Lead - 26/Jun/14

Forecast was great, but we met whiteout conditions when we left the fourche bivy at 3:00am. Moved along the ridge very fast/efficiently, but bailed when the weather worsened and abbed off the route.
MSchobitz - Lead dnf - 22/Jun/14 with David Robinette

Hidden - 2014

Hidden - 2014

beckycoles - AltLd - Aug/13

Si - Aug/13

From Torino hut with guide. 8h10m to Maudit summit. Did the Androsace tower to the right with a couple of harder rock moves and some interesting abseils
Jezzer - 2nd - 26/Jul/13

keithlambley - 12/Jul/13 with Kate R

HarryB - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/13 with Al

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/13

Hidden - Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/13

Mike Hood - AltLd - 26/Jun/13 with jordan

Hidden - 2013

walts4 - 2013

jcw - 2013

edek_w - 2013

James Thacker - 2013

Dave Searle - 2013

newtonmore - 30/Jul/12

Perfect conditions and no routefinding difficulties although we had some problems when we tried an alternative route below Pointe de l'Androsace to get round a slow party in front. This cost us some time but we still made guidebook. Started from Fourche where we stayed the night before.
jhw - Lead - 22/Jul/12

Spent night with 14 others in La Fourche Bivi Hut, which was cosy to say the least. Busy day on the ridge, but everyone moving at similar pace, so it all worked out fine. Abseiled to Col Maudit after difficulties, as weather was closing in fast.
Ken Applegate - AltLd - 10/Jul/12 with Scott Kirkhope

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2012

Hard approach to hut due to lots of black ice , a long but memorable day out with black/rotten ice and lots of loose rock due to warm conditions. JUST! got down to town thanks to the service car taking pity on two VERY! tired climbers racing up the midi arete just in time!...awesome!
Christian Beck - AltLd O/S - 30/Sep/11

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 14/Sep/11

Adam Booth - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/11 with Steve Seale

gowla - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/11 with adam booth

Reached Fourche Bivouc in dark at 10pm knackered. Descended back to glacier using multiple abseils off a single 60 m rope after breakfast the following morning.
MikeLell - AltLd dnf - 28/Aug/11 with Lee Harrison

Hidden - 28/Aug/11

Hidden - AltLd - 13/Aug/11

2.45 from the hut to the ridge on Mont Maudit, excellent neve and tracks from earlier parties (we left an hour later (4,) avoided the hut faff and had a bit more light for the route. Chuffed.
jonnie3430 - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/11 with Nina

d_meacher - AltLd O/S - Aug/11 with Edvin Mellergard

Drew M - AltLd - Aug/11 with Fred Lyon

Pete Graham - Aug/11 with Malcolm Scott

Dave Latimer - AltLd - Aug/11

Classic, but a knackering day out!
benclimbing - AltLd O/S - Aug/11 with Dave Latimer

RKernan - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/11 with Conor Gilmour

bullwinkle - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/11 with Bart

Hidden - AltLd - 14/Jul/11

Ben Briggs - Solo - 12/Jul/11 with Jon

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/11

Awesome !
Petarghh - 04/Jul/11 with Lewis Fraser, cavemanjack

moved together for the whole route, Epic.
Jack Loftus - 04/Jul/11 with Lewis Fraser, Pete Hill

Arrive at the Fourche bivi hut with just two beds left for us, at 10pm. Fairly arduous walk in. Left for the Brenva Spur at 2am. Fortunately our ropes got snagged and wouldn't pull down after the abseil. A huge serac carved off down the Gussefldt Couloir so we promptly sacked it off and headed back up to the ridge to do the Kuffner. Started finally about 4.30-5am on the ridge. Snow coniditions we sugary and solid placements were impossible at times. Very long day out! At the top we didnt do the summit as it was 5pm and headed down. There are fixed abseil points to rap down Maudit to the usually well trodden path up to the Tacul. You can also down climb this section if careful. Got back to the Midi station at 7.05pm. Amazingly the lift was still running. Thank god! Guide book time of 5-7 hours is not realisitic if conditions are warm. We were both fit and climbing well and it took us 12 hours from hut to top out under Mt Maudit. Amazing day out though.
dtilly - Jul/11

tskelhon - AltLd O/S - Jul/11 with chris davis

alkira - 2011

Completed in 3.5 hours from Fourche Bivouac, even though we were slowed down by offering a help to a Bulgarian pair stranded in the steep rocky summit ridge. Our 2.5 hours effort to make a trail on soft snow on the previous day well paid off. My best alpine experience ever!
masa-alpin - AltLd O/S - 13/Oct/10 with Max C

Matt Bennett - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/10 with Lewis Grey

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/10

Amazing route. 1st 4000er
Ally Baba - Solo O/S - 21/Aug/10

stuart34 - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/10 with Kim Ladiges

yellow - AltLd - Aug/10

carl_123 - AltLd O/S - Aug/10

tumbling wizard - Aug/10 with andrew marshall

Did not finish. Caught in storm on ascent to La Fourche Biv. hut. Had to wait in hut for two days before retreating due to bad weather.
LozM - 21/Jul/10 with Mark J

Started at the Fourche. Approach gully to the hut a bit dodgy. Superb day, good snow conditions on the whole. Finished on Mont Maudit.
Cardi - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/10 with Mike Wild, Mark Vet

mark_chal - 2nd O/S - 07/Jul/10

dannyboy83 - Jul/10 with Floris

Ben Briggs - AltLd O/S - Jun/10 with Brendan

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Aug/09

Hidden - 06/Aug/09

Hidden - AltLd dnf - Aug/09

Best ridge I've ever climbed, superb!
JonHarvey - AltLd O/S - 29/Jul/09 with Jay Jackson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/09

Great route. Pity bout the cramped Fourche experience!
andyinglis - 26/Jul/09 with Neil Adams and Ross Barnes

Neil Adams - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/09 with Ross B, Andy Inglis

Rob84 - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/09 with Chris James

Ross Barnes - Jul/09 with Andy I, Neil A

Hidden - Jul/09

climbed from the Torino - left at 2am - summit section lovely - summitted at 12.30
Cham32 - 2009

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Aug/08

stevepotter - 14/Aug/08 with Andy T

robertporter - Aug/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/08

blouise - Aug/08 with James Gordon

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 28/Jul/08

Got last lift up to the Midi to go to the Fourche Bivouac for the night and realised had forgotten the rope, so turned into a solo! Excellent conditions though a bit windy. Unfortunately the alitude got the better of me and I started slowing down, so decided to descend from a subsidiary summit not far from Mt Maudit, while Art carried on to the summit and caught me up on the way back. Left hut at 6.50am and I started descending at 10.30am, though didn't get to the Midi till 2pm as was taking it easy. Altitude is such a pain!
Misha - Solo - 22/Jul/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Jul/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Jul/08

+ Robert Porter
Neil D - Lead O/S - Jul/08 with Jonny Phillips

Joubert - Jul/08

Hidden - Solo - 20/Jun/08

springaren - 2nd - Jun/08 with Christian

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Sep/07

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Sep/07

Jules C - Aug/07

smollett - Aug/07 with Francis blunt

lazyhopkins - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/07 with Jon Lynch

in 5 hours
jl - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/07 with Brad

Stefan - AltLd O/S - 14/Jun/07 with Dave

Bristoldave - 2007 with Rich

RobScotland - AltLd O/S - 29/Sep/06 with jonnyb

feilx - Sep/05 with Ian Lovatt

Great climb, white out conditions coming over from the Aig. Midi had us sitting on our packs trying to get a fix where we were when finally the mist parted and Doog saw the north face of Tour Ronde which got us orientated. The climb up to the Col de la Fourche Hut was in great condition due to a 10cm snow fall the night before and was some of the best couloir climbing we did all summer. The hut was great, eight other people, beautiful setting. The climb was in good condition with the right amount of snow. The descending ice traverse under Pt. Androsace was the sketchiest bit and it wasn't bad as we protected the traverse with three ice screws. The upper parts were good and by the time we reached the col the wind was howling around our helmets, ready to head down. 6 hours to the col from the hut.
Yyonnx - 19/Jul/05 with Doog

sgl - AltLd - Jun/05 with Jo and Konnie

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/05

Hidden - 17/Sep/04

Hidden - Lead - Sep/04

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/01

timmy-ts - 2001

mostly moving together. difficult conditions when we did this, fresh snow and delicate cornices; 1 bivi on ridge in stormy conditions
nickdonohue - AltLd - 02/Sep/00 with Mark McCarthy

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/98

Hidden - 1997

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/94

ChrisJD - AltLd - Aug/93 with TimSp

NeilGriffiths - Aug/93 with Paul Tucker, Phil Kendon

Marvellous route. Hut a tad crowded - 24 of us. A few divvied outside too. I lay on the bench. Awoke to a disgruntling noise, another Brit slumped comfortably but cold and damp on the snow pile in the corner.
Tim Sparrow - Aug/93 with Chris D

aged_ape - AltLd O/S - 18/May/92 with Rob B

frost - AltLd - Jul/91 with Stone

Route was in good nick and so was I, despite having to go look for my second axe which I dropped on the way to the hut. Getting over the bergschrund to the hut was the hardest bit. Best alpine route to date.
Pete_Frost - AltLd O/S - Jul/91

Hidden - Jul/89

Hidden - 1986

John Marsland - Aug/83 with Andrew

granitbahn - AltLd - Jul/71

oldmanofmow - 1961

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