UKC Logbook - 'A Nightmare of White Apples'

Access Banned

Currently access to the quarry and radical road is banned for all activities. Additional signage has been added dissuading climbing.

A geological survey has been delayed by covid.

Please do not risk access to this popular climbing spot at this time.

Permission to climb is in theory granted by getting a free pass from the Historic Scotland Park Ranger Service, who hide in a wee glass fronted building behind Holyrood Palace. The requirement of the pass isn't heavily enforced, and because most climbers stick to bouldering in the South Quarry, reports of problems are rare.

Significant geotechnical rock scaling has recently taken place all along Salisbury crags. Be aware that some long standing "loose" sections may have been disturbed and previously easy access routes are now covered with dislodged rubble.

The left edge of the slab to the right of Spike Fright, starting up the crack before stepping right onto the slab (balancy). Once level with the Spike, one committing move right with poor feet leads to better holds. Fun, but largely escapable.

FA. Davide Cassol 2010.