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Plexus*** HVS 5b

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[Jim Unwin on Plexus, 2 kb]Both technical and adventurous, the classic of the buttress is a superb route and, since the demise of the ancient peg, is now a slightly bolder affair. 1) 20m. Climb easily up a short groove to the large ledge. Follow the ledge leftwards and move up to a stance under the clean groove. There is an alternative direct start at 5a. 2) 5a, 20m. Follow the groove above to a bulge, pull over this and step right onto the clean slab. Climb the crack on the left until a traverse leftwards to the arete is possible. Continue to a good belay. 3) 5b, 25m. Move up and right to the weakest part of the capping roof. Turn the beefy roof and balance leftward into the corner. Move up, then traverse right onto a technical slab and continue to a ledge and perched block. Pass the block to gain a scoop, leave the scoop on its right side and continue diagonally left to a good stance. 4) 4b, 15m. Follow the line of least resistance up the final slabs. © ROCKFAX
Note: P2 and P3 are more like 40m each

Ticklists: Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, North Wales Rock Graded List, MIA logbook must haves!, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, Ultimate HVS ticklist, Alex's Wales ticklist.

Photo: Jim Unwin on Plexus © Postmanpat
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 241 logbooks, and on 61 wishlists.

Attempted to lead P2 but couldn't get round the bulge. Managed it just about on second.
danwilliams99 - Lead dnf - 18/Jul/14 with Liam

Lead pitches 1 and 3. Great moves coming through overlap.
Motown - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/14 with Luke

Felt like E1 to me. Nice climbing though. Led P2
Mr Tickle - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/14 with Will

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/14

Foghbags - 2nd O/S - Jul/14

Climb till dark just after summer solstice!
Glyn - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/14 with Amy

P2 5a pitch. Daunted at the start/bulge, very pleased to do it. Lovely evening sun.
Amy UT - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/14 with Glyn

Matthew Robinson - AltLd - 18/Jun/14 with Marcin

wynaptomos - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/14

Lead the 5a pitch. Excellent climbing with no feet holds at all! So many smears
Jack93 - AltLd O/S - 17/Jun/14 with Jim Hulbert

Amazing. Felt pretty easy for E1 but great climbing.
spidermonkey09 - AltLd O/S - 17/Jun/14 with Jack Knight

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/14

shark - AltLd - 14/Jun/14 with Andy Boorman

andycash - AltLd O/S - 30/May/14 with Ash

Ash Sayers - Lead O/S - 30/May/14

Brilliant route. We did this late in the evening and abseiled off in the dark. I led the 5b pitch which has brilliant with committing moves through the roof. Pitch 2 is very rounded and delicate gritstone style climbing. Felt that technically this route was trickier and more exposed than 'The Grooves' which we did earlier in the day.
gavinpeach - AltLd O/S - 17/May/14 with Max Pendleton

P1&3 - A good situation and route with 2 contrasting main pitches. Drainage channels have dried to leave large parts of the route dirty which will clean with more traffic to give the full 3* experience.
BTphonehome - AltLd O/S - 16/May/14 with Tony

Led pitch 2
tmawer - AltLd O/S - 16/May/14 with Bram

Hidden - 2014

oliverpcain - AltLd O/S - 2014

Si - 2014

mike mo - 2014

Hidden - 2014

Led P4
Chris Manasseh - AltLd - 31/Aug/13 with Mike Buddle, Ste Millington

Led the 5a pitch.
stemill - AltLd - 31/Aug/13 with Mike Buddle, Chris Manasseh

The Bad Cough - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/13 with John Sealey

chrisallan - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/13

jon22 - AltLd - 24/Aug/13 with The Bad Cough

DaveMo - AltLd - 10/Aug/13 with Jan

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/13

Grezza - Lead - 08/Aug/13 with Paul E

hfisher - 2nd - Aug/13 with Andrew Cherry

dan gibson - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/13 with Eszter

PMPM quite a tricky and delicate second pitch. apparently E1 in the new guide.
Marq - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/13 with Paul Scott

P1,P3. Too easy for E1
lewiz - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/13 with Endre Joachim Mossige

JulesV - 2nd - 20/Jul/13 with Shauna Cunningham

P1&3
wi11 - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/13 with Helena

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/13

The_Boy_ODwyer - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/13 with Colin Harvey

Led piches 1 & 3. Excellent climbing, crux is much easier than it looks.
climbingpixie - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/13 with Jules

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/13

Fine technical climbing and impressive situations. A Welsh heatwave gave excellent conditions for this classic route - so excellent that the previous day we'd driven non-stop for 1,000 miles to escape the rainy French Alps and take advantage of them! Arrived at the CC hut in the Pass at 3.00am, climbing by 11.00. Led the crux 5b pitch through the overhangs, but thought it felt easier overall than the big 5a pitch below.
Andy Clarke - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/13 with Tim

Dan724 - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/13 with Kyle Williamson

HB1 - AltLd O/S - 10/Jul/13 with JI

Pp 1,3. Struggled with the overhang but after burning off most of my strength doing it the wrong way (too many chalked holds), finally found a way using only 3 and trusting a dodgy feeling sloper. Very pleased with myself.
squicky - AltLd O/S - 10/Jul/13 with HB1

P1, P3 and P4. P2 is a gritstone climbers wet dream! Good work Laura!
Samuel Wainwright - AltLd O/S - 08/Jul/13 with Laura Prul

Rob Pitt - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/13 with Helen Pitt

Shauna - Lead O/S - Jul/13

Col Kingshott - 2nd - 09/Jun/13

Julesthe1st - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/13 with Mike

Led P3.
Kirill - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/13 with EeFu, Charles Moreton

Led p2. To me it felt harder than pitch 3
cem - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/13 with EeFu Thong, Kirill Spiridonov

NickJH - AltLd - 09/Jun/13 with LiamG

Led P1
EeFu - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/13 with Charles Moreton, Kirill Spiridonov

Dom Whillans - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Adam and Neil

E1. Brilliant.
NeilGriffiths - Lead - 08/Jun/13 with Chriss

second pitch proper for me. Pulled through the over hang with gusto expecting it to continue with 5b moves, but it was all over all too quickly
A Crook - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Dom Stockton

Hidden - Lead rpt - 06/Jun/13

Led P1 and P3. Quite tough for HVS in the old guide. Bit polished in places but very interesting climbing. Delicate at times. Awkard at times.
Skinny Kin - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/13 with Pete Frost

Led p2 and 4. P2 very technical and a bit polished.
Pete_Frost - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/13 with Kin Choi

I lead first and second the bold slab.
Murilo Lessa - AltLd O/S - 26/May/13 with Eduardo Camiletti

RD P2. Stuffed up layback. Came off. Got it second time. Abbed off after P3
rd20 - AltLd dog - 19/May/13 with Hugh CC

takes a while to get going but excellent 2nd pitch, or (first real one)
Sam Simpson - AltLd O/S - 06/May/13 with Tom Doldon

Cool move on the overhang at the start of P3
anthonydouglas - AltLd - 06/May/13 with Sam Melville

Sam Melville - AltLd O/S - 06/May/13

Hidden - Apr/13

Nick Biven - 2013

PAJames - 2013

PAJames - 2013

richpickford - 2013

Abbed off as so greasy and also bold!
Dizz - AltLd dnf - 08/Sep/12 with megan, David B

P2 and 4, brilliant, and what amazing rock! Place your foot and the rock almost pulls you up each move, love it. Pitch lengths in descriptions above are wrong - P2 and 3 are more like 35m each
Sardien - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/12 with Johnny

dave657 - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/12 with Alys

Hidden - Lead - 11/Aug/12

Greasy and wet, ended up abbing off. Best left until its really dry
Daymo - AltLd dnf - 15/Jul/12 with DJ

Owain Llewelyn - AltLd - 02/Jun/12 with Brad

mynyddresident - AltLd - 30/May/12 with wolf

wolf.leeb - AltLd O/S - 30/May/12 with nic

Led P1 and P4
Bex_M - AltLd dog - 27/May/12 with Duncan Dunbar

adie84 - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Captain Gear - 2012

peterbeaumont - 2012

How is this hvs? thought it was fairly bold with uncertain foot holds...a very grit-like route indeed
chriscarroll - AltLd O/S - 03/Aug/11 with Mikey

Love this buttress, such good rock and style of climbing, and a worthy eponymous route! Nothing desperate but always interesting, probably E1
Mike Goldthorp - AltLd O/S - 03/Aug/11 with Chris Carroll

Coel Hellier - AltLd - 27/Jul/11 with Ben Tibbetts

Andy Moles - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/11 with Calum

lead 2 and 4. 2 was a fantastic hvs 5a pitch - 3 stars on its own. 3rd 5b pitch felt easier somehow - and no idea what the 'bold bit' due to lack of peg is about.
benkelsey - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/11 with Remus Knowles

Alistair Corbett - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/11 with ben peake

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/11

Clearly E1 as both guides state.. Bold second pitch and tricky moves getting into the grooves on p3
Lawrie Brand - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/11 with Joe

richardr - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/11

Led P2.
Jim Slater - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/11 with Gavlar

Led pitch 2 (long pitch).
Si dH - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/11 with Neil Furniss

Gets E1 in the guide
Craig McMahon - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/11 with Neil Morbey

DubyaJamesDubya - Lead O/S - Jun/11

Hidden - May/11

Originally planned to do Black Spring but it was wet so opted for this instead. Paul had a go at P2 but backed off at the crux move so I had to take over. Cold fingers didn't help - wasn't as cold as on Llech Ddu the previous day but they still went a bit numb and yellow, which didn't help on the small and slopey holds. They warmed back up on the second half of P2, which was fairly straightforward but enjoyable. The first half felt like E1 5a due to a few 5a moves above uninspiring gear. Perhaps even 5b but that's probably due to the cold fingers. Anyway, great pitch. The overhand pitch was less sustained but thoroughly enjoyable. The overhang was awkward - got my right foot a bit stuck - and a bit physical but fairly short lived. Paul had backed off it c. '96 and was pleased to do it fairly easily on second this time. Led P1, 2 and 3. Definitely deserves E1 overall.
Misha - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/11 with Paul

Led P2 which was probably 5b rather than 5a in my opinion. Quite necky as well when traversing across at the start... awesome pitch and great route overall. Definitely E1...
Wilbur - AltLd O/S - 24/Apr/11 with Paul Winder

tim newton - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/11 with dan ely

direct start is rubbish
dan ely - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/11 with tim

Rory Shaw - 2011

David Smith - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2011

mwatson - 2011

crag_monster - AltLd - Sep/10 with John Vincent

beci tointen - Lead O/S - Jul/10 with my uncle carl

mr mills - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/10 with edwin

Guy Wilson - AltLd - 22/Jun/10 with Paulo

pabbage - AltLd - 22/Jun/10

david morse - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/10 with lole

led easy ungraded first pitch, found next two pitches very difficult,there was some anti gravity assistance on the crux of pitch 3.
pebbles - 2nd - 20/Jun/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/10

steve prior - AltLd - Jun/10 with Andy C

tom.ireson - AltLd O/S - 23/May/10 with Gareth Leah

Gazleah - Lead O/S - 23/May/10 with tom ireson

soph - AltLd O/S - May/10 with Carl Reilly

climbed in 2 big pitches, tom did the first, i got the second.
simon kimber - AltLd - 28/Apr/10 with Tom Pearson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Apr/10

Tomprusk - AltLd O/S - 17/Apr/10 with Tom Ripley

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - 2010

james chesmer - AltLd dnf - 2010 with Ewan Russell

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Sep/09

Liam FLeming - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/09 with merlin gallery

Leg slipped on the mud on 2nd pitch, then neither of us could do the crux. So retreated.
Ewan Russell - AltLd dnf - 11/Sep/09 with James Chesmer

Recently up to E1 but more like HVS as only one 5b move. Rock is excellent especially on pitch 2.
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/09 with Sam

sgl - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/09 with chad

irish paul - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/09 with Sarah Joyce

A bit green at some points...
Sarah Black - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/09

the juicy dangler - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/09 with chris lycett

Seymore Butt - 2009

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2009

Abbed off after P2 as it was 8pm. I baled off P2 after failing to commit to the crux - commitment still needs work after lay off from tradding. Good lead by Jules.
Siderunner - 2nd dnf - 26/Jul/08 with Jules

ran out of Time. Had to Ab off
Julesthe1st - Lead dnf - 14/Jun/08 with Andy Sinclair

francois - 07/Jun/08 with Olaf, Ben

C coldwell-storry - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/08 with Neil Chelton

Carly - AltLd - 16/May/08 with james

Owain Llewelyn - Lead - 14/May/08 with Phil

Matt Vigg - 2008

Masive thunder storm complete with lightening and pissing rain at the top of pitch 2. Sheltered under the overhang and then abbed off.
kingholmesy - 2nd dnf - 2008 with Brian and Tom Eagle

Al Evans - 2008

Hidden - 2008

zero six - Lead O/S - 2008

Marcus - 2008

Mowglee - AltLd - 07/Oct/07 with Arnaud

Hidden - Lead - 10/Jun/07

Led roof pitch.
Owen W-G - AltLd O/S - 20/Apr/07 with Robin

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Apr/07

Hidden - Lead - Apr/07

bigbobbyking - 2nd O/S - Mar/07 with Chris Bull

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Feb/07

Rob Kennard - 2007

Sean Kelly - 2007

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2007

Lead 5b pitch this time round.
ritchierich - AltLd rpt - 10/Aug/06 with Phil Taggart

steve taylor - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/06 with Steve Williams

Hidden - 2nd dog - 15/Jul/06

Tim Steward - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/06 with Helen Alderson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Jun/06

Ian McNeill - 2006

Hidden - 2006

ritchierich - AltLd O/S - 2006 with Rob Greenwood

tom.e - AltLd dog - Aug/05 with Charlie Everett

a_radiohead_fan - 2005

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Aug/03

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Aug/03

Mark Riley - AltLd - Aug/03 with Stuart Greenall

James B - 28/Jun/03 with Phil

Paul Boardman - AltLd O/S - 2003 with Iain Boardman

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2003 with Emma

climbergg - 2nd - Jul/02 with cheesesarnie

Just Another Dave - Lead O/S - 2002

Hidden - Jul/01

WB - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/00 with Paul

ArnaudG - 2000

Roget - 2nd O/S - 18/Jun/99

Hidden - AltLd - 02/May/99

mux - AltLd - 1999

tlr - Lead - 18/May/97 with Richard

Another fantastic climb. Led 1st and 3rd. Bulge on 2nd pitch felt much less secure than leading more technically difficult 3rd pitch. Poor hex for pro I thought.
Scott McRae - AltLd O/S - 03/May/97 with Bob Last

Ched - Lead O/S - 1997 with Glanfor

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1997

babymoac - AltLd - 08/Sep/96 with Chris F

Jon Read - AltLd - Jun/96 with Glyn Stanworth

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Aug/95

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/95 with Roy Thomas

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/95

AlanLittle - 2nd - Jul/95 with Al Metelko

Dave Musgrove Jnr - AltLd - 24/Mar/95 with Emmy McCowen

rurp - Lead - 1995

Hidden - Lead - 1995

ste_d - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/94 with mik

Fantastic exposure on traverse
mikedelderfield - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/94 with Steven Delderfield

Hidden - AltLd - 30/May/94

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Jun/93

Hidden - AltLd - 07/May/93

rob.grafton - AltLd - 28/Jun/92 with Bruce

AlanLittle - AltLd - 1992

surfbish - Lead O/S - May/90

led 3rd pitch
michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/88 with pete roberts

mark-abz - Lead - 18/Jun/88 with Phil R

andy gittins - 1988

I led 1,3,4
Richard Weller - AltLd - 20/Jun/87 with john sanders

eroica64 - 2nd - 14/Jun/86 with John Graeme

RichardMc - AltLd - 19/Oct/85 with John Chiverton

GuyM - 1985

jasper11 - 1984

Hidden - Lead - 1982

Brian Wilderspin - AltLd - 16/Aug/81 with Steve Gough

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Apr/81

Hidden - Lead - 1981

Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 1980 with Mike Wright

Hidden - Lead - 1980

mikej - Lead - 17/Jul/79 with Tony Waite

Gordon Stainforth - 2nd - 22/Jul/78 with Dave Langmead

We dispensed with the pegs which were then in use on pitches 2 and 3. I pencilled 'Excellent Route' beside the guidebook description to this route.
Falko - AltLd O/S - 01/May/78 with Chris Astill (Shilling Rabbit)

Derek Ryden - AltLd O/S - Apr/78 with Steve Platt, Andy Draper

Lone Rider - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/77 with Mark Thompson

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Jun/77

Mike Owen - 19/Jun/77 with John Roberts

Hidden - AltLd - 29/May/76

Bolt Phobia - Lead - 28/May/76

Used peg on roof.
Mark Kemball - AltLd - Apr/76 with Mark Pearce

steve L - 1976

Nigel Bond - AltLd - 01/Aug/75 with Dave Humphries

petemeads - Lead - 06/Jun/75

Bolt Phobia - AltLd - 26/Apr/75 with Dave Williams

granitbahn - AltLd - 1975

RichardMc - Lead - 22/Jun/74 with Ken Salter

pneame - 1974

Tom V - Apr/73 with Dave Garner

Gordon Stainforth - 2nd - 05/Sep/72 with John Stainforth

mikej - Lead - 13/Jun/71 with E

Possibly the best route I ever went up (2nd!)
lump'o'lead - 1970 with Pete Whitehead

Hidden - Lead - 01/Jul/69

mikej - Lead - 19/Jun/67 with Brian Norris

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Voting
Total votes cast 152
hard E10 of 56
E116 of 56
easy E129 of 56
hard HVS7 of 56
HVS4 of 56
easy HVS0 of 56
hard VS0 of 56
VS0 of 56
easy VS0 of 56
hard 5c0 of 52
5c0 of 52
easy 5c2 of 52
hard 5b4 of 52
5b37 of 52
easy 5b8 of 52
hard 5a0 of 52
5a1 of 52
easy 5a0 of 52
3 Stars32 of 44
2 Stars10 of 44
1 Star2 of 44
0 Stars0 of 44
Bag of .....0 of 44
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Style of ascent

Lead50 of 241 (20.7%)
Followed17 of 241 (7.1%)
Alt Leads129 of 241 (53.5%)
Unknown45 of 241 (18.7%)

'Climbed'114 of 241 (47.3%)
clean O/S113 of 241 (46.9%)
clean rpt2 of 241 (0.8%)
dogged4 of 241 (1.7%)
dnf8 of 241 (3.3%)