Rockfax Description
Both technical and adventurous, the classic of the buttress is a superb route and, since the demise of the ancient peg, is now a slightly bolder affair.
1) 20m. Climb easily up a short groove to a large ledge. Follow the ledge leftwards and move up to a stance under the clean groove.
2) 5a, 20m. Follow the groove above to a bulge, pull over this and step right onto the clean slab. Climb the crack on the left until a traverse leftwards to the arete is possible. Continue to a good belay.
3) 5b, 25m. Move up and right to the narrowest part of the capping roof. Turn the beefy roof and balance leftward into the corner. Move up, then traverse right onto a technical slab and continue to a ledge and perched block. Pass the block to gain a scoop, leave the scoop on its right side and continue diagonally left to a good stance.
4) 4b, 15m. Follow the line of least resistance up the final slabs. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Note: P2 and P3 are more like 40m each

Ticklists: Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, North Wales Rock Graded List, MIA logbook must haves!, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, Ultimate HVS ticklist, Alex's Wales ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, AMC Uni Ticklist.

foostu4 17/Aug AltLd O/S

Good route, found the block on p3 scary

nodwas 17/Aug AltLd
anguskille 10/Jul Lead O/S

Great stuff, lead all pitches

with Mark
mr mills 23/Jun AltLd rpt

climbed p2, abbed off, midges out in force, pitch 2 is given 5a which is bollocks...its 5b in my book, a great pitch !!

with Roger
Hidden 23/Jun AltLd
Hidden 23/Jun AltLd O/S
Marti999 19/Jun Lead dnf

got to pitch 2 belay and bailed as thought it was going to start raining.

with Debbie
guy757 16/Jun -
harry_lewis 16/Jun AltLd O/S
with Shaun
shaunhumphreys 16/Jun AltLd O/S
FreddieSmith 07/Jun AltLd O/S
with Becky Good
Jake Young 06/Jun AltLd O/S

Really good route. now to do Ten Degrees North.

with Dom
dom94 06/Jun AltLd O/S
Fragmod 22/Apr Lead
Hidden ??/2015 AltLd
Tim Sparrow ??/2015 -
jcw ??/2015 -
Ian craigie ??/2015 Lead
with Martin doyle
Tom Livingstone 28/Sep/14 AltLd O/S


with Anna Gilyeat
Hidden 28/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
davebrox 14/Sep/14 AltLd
with Luke, Dan
jshields 07/Sep/14 AltLd

Top end HVS/soft E1, great climb. Thought the second pitch was harder and more involved than the third and probably worth 5b.

with Martin Lancaster
KKilroy ?/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
danwilliams99 18/Jul/14 Lead dnf

Attempted to lead P2 but couldn't get round the bulge. Managed it just about on second.

with Liam
Motown 15/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Lead pitches 1 and 3. Great moves coming through overlap.

with Luke
Mr Tickle 15/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Felt like E1 to me. Nice climbing though. Led P2

with Will
Rich Kirby 09/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Helen
Foghbags ?/Jul/14 2nd O/S
frost 29/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Helen, D Garry
Glyn 24/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Climb till dark just after summer solstice!

with Amy
Amy UT 24/Jun/14 Lead O/S

P2 5a pitch. Daunted at the start/bulge, very pleased to do it. Lovely evening sun.

with Glyn
tim.fairhall 24/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Matt
Matthew Robinson 18/Jun/14 AltLd
with Marcin
wynaptomos 17/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Jack93 17/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Lead the 5a pitch. Excellent climbing with no feet holds at all! So many smears

spidermonkey09 17/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Amazing. Felt pretty easy for E1 but great climbing.

Hidden 16/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
shark 14/Jun/14 AltLd
with Andy Boorman
andycash 30/May/14 AltLd O/S
with Ash
Ash Sayers 30/May/14 Lead O/S
gavinpeach 17/May/14 AltLd O/S

Brilliant route. We did this late in the evening and abseiled off in the dark. I led the 5b pitch which has brilliant with committing moves through the roof. Pitch 2 is very rounded and delicate gritstone style climbing. Felt that technically this route was trickier and more exposed than 'The Grooves' which we did earlier in the day.

with Max Pendleton
BTphonehome 16/May/14 AltLd O/S

P1&3 - A good situation and route with 2 contrasting main pitches. Drainage channels have dried to leave large parts of the route dirty which will clean with more traffic to give the full 3* experience.

with Tony
tmawer 16/May/14 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 2

with Bram
Hidden ??/2014 -
oliverpcain ??/2014 AltLd O/S
Si ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
newtonmore ??/2014 -
Chris Manasseh 31/Aug/13 AltLd

Led P4

with Mike Buddle, Ste Millington
stemill 31/Aug/13 AltLd

Led the 5a pitch.

with Mike Buddle, Chris Manasseh
The Bad Cough 25/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
chrisallan 25/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
jon22 24/Aug/13 AltLd
DaveMo 10/Aug/13 AltLd
with Jan
Hidden 10/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Grezza 08/Aug/13 Lead
with Paul E
hfisher ?/Aug/13 2nd
dan gibson 27/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with Eszter
Marq 27/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

PMPM quite a tricky and delicate second pitch. apparently E1 in the new guide.

with Paul Scott
lewiz 24/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

P1,P3. Too easy for E1

with Endre Joachim Mossige
JulesV 20/Jul/13 2nd
with Shauna Cunningham
wi11 19/Jul/13 AltLd O/S


with Helena
Hidden 16/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
The_Boy_ODwyer 16/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with Colin Harvey
climbingpixie 15/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Led piches 1 & 3. Excellent climbing, crux is much easier than it looks.

with Jules
Hidden 14/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Andy Clarke 12/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Fine technical climbing and impressive situations. A Welsh heatwave gave excellent conditions for this classic route - so excellent that the previous day we'd driven non-stop for 1,000 miles to escape the rainy French Alps and take advantage of them! Arrived at the CC hut in the Pass at 3.00am, climbing by 11.00. Led the crux 5b pitch through the overhangs, but thought it felt easier overall than the big 5a pitch below.

with Tim
Dan724 11/Jul/13 Lead O/S
HB1 10/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with JI
squicky 10/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Pp 1,3. Struggled with the overhang but after burning off most of my strength doing it the wrong way (too many chalked holds), finally found a way using only 3 and trusting a dodgy feeling sloper. Very pleased with myself.

with HB1
Samuel Wainwright 08/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

P1, P3 and P4. P2 is a gritstone climbers wet dream! Good work Laura!

with Laura Prul
Rob Pitt 07/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Helen Pitt
Shauna ?/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Col Kingshott 09/Jun/13 2nd
Julesthe1st 09/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with Mike
Kirill 09/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Led P3.

cem 09/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Led p2. To me it felt harder than pitch 3

NickJH 09/Jun/13 AltLd
with LiamG
EeFu 09/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Led P1

Dom Whillans 08/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with Adam and Neil
NeilGriffiths 08/Jun/13 Lead

E1. Brilliant.

with Chriss
A Crook 08/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

second pitch proper for me. Pulled through the over hang with gusto expecting it to continue with 5b moves, but it was all over all too quickly

Hidden 06/Jun/13 Lead rpt
Skinny Kin 03/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Led P1 and P3. Quite tough for HVS in the old guide. Bit polished in places but very interesting climbing. Delicate at times. Awkard at times.

with Pete Frost
Pete_Frost 03/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Led p2 and 4. P2 very technical and a bit polished.

Murilo Lessa 26/May/13 AltLd O/S

I lead first and second the bold slab.

with Eduardo Camiletti
rd20 19/May/13 AltLd dog

RD P2. Stuffed up layback. Came off. Got it second time. Abbed off after P3

with Hugh CC
Sam Simpson 06/May/13 AltLd O/S

takes a while to get going but excellent 2nd pitch, or (first real one)

anthonydouglas 06/May/13 AltLd

Cool move on the overhang at the start of P3

Sam Melville 06/May/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/13 -
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
PAJames ??/2013 -
PAJames ??/2013 -
richpickford ??/2013 -
Dizz 08/Sep/12 AltLd dnf

Abbed off as so greasy and also bold!

with megan, David B
Sardien 11/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

P2 and 4, brilliant, and what amazing rock! Place your foot and the rock almost pulls you up each move, love it. Pitch lengths in descriptions above are wrong - P2 and 3 are more like 35m each

with Johnny
Hidden 11/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/12 Lead
Daymo 15/Jul/12 AltLd dnf

Greasy and wet, ended up abbing off. Best left until its really dry

with DJ
deejmonkey 15/Jul/12 AltLd
with Damian
Owain Llewelyn 02/Jun/12 AltLd
with Brad
mynyddresident 30/May/12 AltLd
with wolf
wolf.leeb 30/May/12 AltLd O/S
with nic
Bex_M 27/May/12 AltLd dog

Led P1 and P4

with Duncan Dunbar
adie84 ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Captain Gear ??/2012 -
peterbeaumont ??/2012 -
chriscarroll 03/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

How is this hvs? thought it was fairly bold with uncertain foot holds...a very grit-like route indeed

with Mikey
Mike Goldthorp 03/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Love this buttress, such good rock and style of climbing, and a worthy eponymous route! Nothing desperate but always interesting, probably E1

Coel Hellier 27/Jul/11 AltLd
with Ben Tibbetts
Andy Moles 26/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Calum
benkelsey 25/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

lead 2 and 4. 2 was a fantastic hvs 5a pitch - 3 stars on its own. 3rd 5b pitch felt easier somehow - and no idea what the 'bold bit' due to lack of peg is about.

Alistair Corbett 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with ben peake
Hidden 24/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Lawrie Brand 13/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Clearly E1 as both guides state.. Bold second pitch and tricky moves getting into the grooves on p3

with Joe
richardr 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Jim Slater 03/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Led P2.

with Gavin Singleton
Si dH 02/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 2 (long pitch).

with Neil Furniss
Hidden 03/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/May/11 -
Misha 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Originally planned to do Black Spring but it was wet so opted for this instead. Paul had a go at P2 but backed off at the crux move so I had to take over. Cold fingers didn't help - wasn't as cold as on Llech Ddu the previous day but they still went a bit numb and yellow, which didn't help on the small and slopey holds. They warmed back up on the second half of P2, which was fairly straightforward but enjoyable. The first half felt like E1 5a due to a few 5a moves above uninspiring gear. Perhaps even 5b but that's probably due to the cold fingers. Anyway, great pitch. The overhand pitch was less sustained but thoroughly enjoyable. The overhang was awkward - got my right foot a bit stuck - and a bit physical but fairly short lived. Paul had backed off it c. '96 and was pleased to do it fairly easily on second this time. Led P1, 2 and 3. Definitely deserves E1 overall.

with Paul
Pay Attention 25/Apr/11 2nd
with Misha
Wilbur 24/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Led P2 which was probably 5b rather than 5a in my opinion. Quite necky as well when traversing across at the start... awesome pitch and great route overall. Definitely E1...

with Paul Winder
tim newton 19/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with dan ely
dan ely 19/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

direct start is rubbish

with tim
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 AltLd O/S
mwatson ??/2011 -
crag_monster ?/Sep/10 AltLd
with John Vincent
beci tointen ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with my uncle carl
mr mills 22/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with edwin
Guy Wilson 22/Jun/10 AltLd
with Paulo
pabbage 22/Jun/10 AltLd
david morse 20/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with lole
pebbles 20/Jun/10 2nd

led easy ungraded first pitch, found next two pitches very difficult,there was some anti gravity assistance on the crux of pitch 3.

DubyaJamesDubya 18/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Andrew Bevan
Hidden 04/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
steve prior ?/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with Andy C
tom.ireson 23/May/10 AltLd O/S
Gazleah 23/May/10 Lead O/S
soph ?/May/10 AltLd O/S
with Carl Reilly
simon kimber 28/Apr/10 AltLd

climbed in 2 big pitches, tom did the first, i got the second.

with Tom Pearson
Hidden 26/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
Tomprusk 17/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
james chesmer ??/2010 AltLd dnf
with Ewan Russell
Hidden 15/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
Liam FLeming 14/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with merlin gallery
Ewan Russell 11/Sep/09 AltLd dnf

Leg slipped on the mud on 2nd pitch, then neither of us could do the crux. So retreated.

with James Chesmer
Chad123 08/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Recently up to E1 but more like HVS as only one 5b move. Rock is excellent especially on pitch 2.

with Sam
sgl 08/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with chad
irish paul 25/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
with Sarah Joyce
Sarah Black 25/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

A bit green at some points...

Hidden 02/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 AltLd O/S
Siderunner 26/Jul/08 2nd dnf

Abbed off after P2 as it was 8pm. I baled off P2 after failing to commit to the crux - commitment still needs work after lay off from tradding. Good lead by Jules.

with Jules
Julesthe1st 14/Jun/08 Lead dnf

ran out of Time. Had to Ab off

with Andy Sinclair
francois 07/Jun/08 -
with Olaf, Ben
C coldwell-storry 01/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Neil Chelton
Carly 16/May/08 AltLd
with james
Owain Llewelyn 14/May/08 Lead
with Phil
Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
kingholmesy ??/2008 2nd dnf

Masive thunder storm complete with lightening and pissing rain at the top of pitch 2. Sheltered under the overhang and then abbed off.

with Brian and Tom Eagle
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
zero six ??/2008 Lead O/S
Marcus ??/2008 -
Mowglee 07/Oct/07 AltLd
with Arnaud
Hidden 10/Jun/07 Lead
Owen W-G 20/Apr/07 AltLd O/S

Led roof pitch.

with Robin
Hidden 15/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/07 Lead
bigbobbyking ?/Mar/07 2nd O/S
with Chris Bull
Hidden 03/Feb/07 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Sean Kelly ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 AltLd O/S
ritchierich 10/Aug/06 AltLd rpt

Lead 5b pitch this time round.

steve taylor 16/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
with Steve Williams
Hidden 15/Jul/06 2nd dog
Tim Steward 13/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Helen Alderson
Hidden 14/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
ritchierich ??/2006 AltLd O/S
with Rob Greenwood
tom.e ?/Aug/05 AltLd dog
with Charlie Everett
a_radiohead_fan ??/2005 -
Hidden 27/Aug/03 2nd O/S
Samuel P 27/Aug/03 2nd
with Ric the Guide, Gareth
Mark Riley ?/Aug/03 AltLd
with Stuart Greenall
James B 28/Jun/03 -
with Phil
Paul Boardman ??/2003 AltLd O/S
with Iain Boardman
Tim M ??/2003 Lead O/S
with Emma
climbergg ?/Jul/02 2nd
Just Another Dave ??/2002 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/01 -
WB 26/Jun/00 AltLd O/S
with Paul
ArnaudG ??/2000 -
Roget 18/Jun/99 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/May/99 AltLd
mux ??/1999 AltLd
lost.arrow 29/May/98 AltLd
with Tim Malone
tlr 18/May/97 Lead
with Richard
Scott McRae 03/May/97 AltLd O/S

Another fantastic climb. Led 1st and 3rd. Bulge on 2nd pitch felt much less secure than leading more technically difficult 3rd pitch. Poor hex for pro I thought.

with Bob Last
Ched ??/1997 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Hidden ??/1997 AltLd O/S
babymoac 08/Sep/96 AltLd
with Chris F
Jon Read ?/Jun/96 AltLd
with Glyn Stanworth
Hidden 20/Aug/95 AltLd O/S
goi.ashmore 06/Aug/95 Lead O/S
with Roy Thomas
Hidden 09/Jul/95 Lead O/S
AlanLittle ?/Jul/95 2nd
with Al Metelko
Dave Musgrove Jnr 24/Mar/95 AltLd
with Emmy McCowen
rurp ??/1995 Lead
Hidden ??/1995 Lead
ste_d 19/Jul/94 AltLd O/S
with mik
mikedelderfield 16/Jul/94 AltLd O/S

Fantastic exposure on traverse

Hidden 30/May/94 AltLd
Hidden 23/Jun/93 AltLd
Hidden 07/May/93 AltLd
rob.grafton 28/Jun/92 AltLd
with Bruce
AlanLittle ??/1992 AltLd
surfbish ?/May/90 Lead O/S
michael burrows 03/Jul/88 AltLd O/S

led 3rd pitch

with pete roberts
mark-abz 18/Jun/88 Lead
with Phil R
andy gittins ??/1988 -
Richard Weller 20/Jun/87 AltLd

I led 1,3,4

with john sanders
eroica64 14/Jun/86 2nd
with John Graeme
RichardMc 19/Oct/85 AltLd
with John Chiverton
Hidden 06/Sep/85 AltLd O/S
GuyM ??/1985 -
Hidden ??/1985 Lead
Robmwatt ??/1984 -
Mike Owen 02/Jun/82 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Hidden ??/1982 Lead
Hidden 06/Sep/81 AltLd
Brian Wilderspin 16/Aug/81 AltLd
with Steve Gough
Hidden 17/Apr/81 AltLd
Hidden ??/1981 Lead
Ian Jones ??/1980 Lead O/S
with Mike Wright
Hidden ??/1980 Lead
mikej 17/Jul/79 Lead
with Tony Waite
Gordon Stainforth 22/Jul/78 2nd
with Dave Langmead
Falko 01/May/78 AltLd O/S

We dispensed with the pegs which were then in use on pitches 2 and 3. I pencilled 'Excellent Route' beside the guidebook description to this route.

with Chris Astill (Shilling Rabbit)
Derek Ryden ?/Apr/78 AltLd O/S
with Steve Platt, Andy Draper
Lone Rider 09/Jul/77 AltLd O/S
with Mark Thompson
Hidden 25/Jun/77 AltLd
Mike Owen 19/Jun/77 AltLd O/S
with John Roberts
Rob Davies 28/May/77 AltLd

Probably HVS 5a with peg for aid in those days

with Mike Swaine
Hidden 29/May/76 AltLd
Bolt Phobia 28/May/76 Lead
steve L 16/Apr/76 Lead O/S
with Steve Bonus
Mark Kemball ?/Apr/76 AltLd

Used peg on roof.

with Mark Pearce
Nigel Bond 01/Aug/75 AltLd
with Dave Humphries
petemeads 06/Jun/75 Lead
Bolt Phobia 26/Apr/75 AltLd
with Dave Williams
granitbahn ??/1975 AltLd
RichardMc 22/Jun/74 Lead
with Ken Salter
pneame ??/1974 -
Tom V ?/Apr/73 -
with Dave Garner
Gordon Stainforth 05/Sep/72 2nd
with John Stainforth
mikej 13/Jun/71 Lead
with E
lump'o'lead ??/1970 -

Possibly the best route I ever went up (2nd!)

with Pete Whitehead
uphillnow ??/1970 Lead

Also 20/7/2000

Hidden 01/Jul/69 Lead
mikej 19/Jun/67 Lead
with Brian Norris
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 63
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 59
Votes cast 51
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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