UKC

Restricted Access

The north side of the Gorge is predominantly owned by the National Trust and mapped as Open Access land under the CRoW Act which give a right of access for climbers to use these crags all year. The Cheddar Gorge Access Map gives full details of climbing access throughout the Gorge.

The map references the latest guide to the Gorge - 'Cheddar Gorge Climbs' (M. Crocker, 2015), which has details of the popular crags on the north side and definitive details of restored routes on the south side. It is available from The Gorge Outdoors shop in Cheddar village, as well as other climbing and outdoor shops in the area.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Dogs should be kept under control on a lead at any crags on the north side of the Gorge.

The National Trust require any new bolting to be cleared with them first - please contact the BMC Access Team if you are considering any bolting work and so we can help in any approach to the Trust.

12m. F6c+ climbing with spaced wire protection.
Start in a slim groove. Climb the groove to a rest, then the sustained wall above with increasing difficulty to a large undercut. Pull round a tiny roof to jugs and an abseil station above.

M J Crocker G A Jenkin 1985.

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High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 6
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Smashingly Obvious

Grade: E5 6b ***
(Split Rock (Milton Hill Quarry))

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