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Screwballed!* 7a

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[Stanley on 'Screwballed', 3 kb]Start below the LH side of the arch. Climb up to the arch and pull through leftwards onto a steep slab. Move up to a resting place and an easier finish.
Francis Haden, Martin Crocker 1994

Photo: Stanley on 'Screwballed' © Stanley
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 204 logbooks, and on 22 wishlists.

afrosam - Lead rpt - 21/Jul/14 with Trisha Murphy

Trisha Murphy - 2nd rpt - 21/Jul/14 with Sam Robinson

chrisscutt - Lead RP - 17/Jul/14 with Steph

First 7a project. Not worked out the crux yet.
maresia - TR dog - 10/Jul/14 with James Smith

First redpoint attempt. Really nice route.
bonelessivar - Lead RP - 09/Jul/14 with Alan

Julie Carroll - Lead RP - 05/Jul/14 with Cristiano Costa

vickydavies - Lead RP - 03/Jul/14 with Helen Gardiner

vickydavies - Lead dog - 01/Jul/14 with Helen Gardiner

DaveX - Lead dog - 24/Jun/14

Couldn't remember anything from it but I climbed and then down-climbed the first few easy moves to just above the first bolt about 4 years ago so not technically a flash sadly. Would have been harder without having just watched Sean do it but felt quite soft.
Stuart William - Lead β - 17/Jun/14 with Jim T

Trisha Murphy - Lead rpt - 13/Jun/14 with Sam Robinson

afrosam - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/14 with brad8563

eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/14 with Mike

JohnV - Lead RP - 01/Jun/14

went for the flash, but ran out of juice and took a huge lob while trying to clip the last bolt
Jim Brooke - Lead dnf - 31/May/14 with Dan Webber

afrosam - Lead rpt - 30/May/14 with brad8563

BicycleBradley - Lead RP - 30/May/14 with Sam

jacobjohncharles - Lead O/S - 26/May/14

afrosam - Lead O/S - 21/May/14

Trisha Murphy - Lead dog - 21/May/14 with Ella

BicycleBradley - Lead dog - 21/May/14 with Sam, Trisha

Had done this a year ago but was unsure whether I had strayed off line. I reckon I definitely had gone too far right and did it properly this time. Felt easy after one practice. Tricky but is between 2nd and 3rd bolt but felt easy when you know what you're doing.
alexjz - Lead β - 13/May/14 with Jennifer Holloway

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/14

Gutted not to get this. My first attempt at red pointing and I've learnt a lot such as really get your sequence dialled if climbing something as sequence dependent as this climb is. Lovely varied climbing. I need to come back and climb this cleanly (after refreshing my sequence of course) :-)
puppythedog - Lead dog - 15/Apr/14 with Kemics

Put the draws in and practiced the moves. Went smoothly second try. Felt easy with the right sequence. An excellent climb.
Kemics - Lead RP - 15/Apr/14 with Groovy James

1 fall. Didn't quite commit on the crux move (from the big side pull to the undercling).
etrillaud - Lead dog - 13/Apr/14

Justin T - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/14 with Nathan

Fell on the on-sight. Damn heel slipped off. Did it 2nd go without much of a problem.
joe1joe1joe2 - Lead RP - 22/Mar/14

will_benfold - Lead dog - 16/Mar/14 with Steve Robinson

Great climb! Easy to drop.
joe1joe1joe2 - Lead β - Mar/14

Rosea Day - Lead rpt - 2014 with Jerome Gill

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/13

Hidden - Lead dog - 22/Sep/13

felt easy after some of the 6bs on this crag!
ian d f - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/13 with Pete H

Dale used his commando forehead to deflect falling rocks from hitting the ground.
TommityP - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/13

Went to make a quick RP. First attempt putting in draws. Second attempt, crux went smoothly, literally the last move up to the jug to clip the chains fell off. Doh.
Kemics - Lead dog - 01/Aug/13 with Neil

felt like an onsight, 9 years after last time.
cornishben - Lead rpt - 17/Jul/13 with Gareth Pratt

Climbed half, then re-lead clean from the start.
DorsetGareth - Lead RP - 17/Jul/13 with Ben Sutton

yan hawkins - Lead β - 17/Jul/13 with jo stadden

Nice little route
BenNorman - Lead rpt - 13/Jul/13

Pete Dangerous - Lead RP - 09/Jun/13 with Marek, Michal, Kamil

Retro flash
Michelle W - Lead rpt - 08/Jun/13

Pathological_Climber - Lead RP - 08/Jun/13

tedj234 - Lead O/S - 25/May/13 with Kate, davidliu

davidliu - Lead RP - 25/May/13 with Kate Cambell, Ed Jenner

First 7a onsight! BOOM loved it, went quite far right, wasn't sure I'd gone off route but judging by the picture I wasn't
alexjz - Lead O/S - 12/May/13 with Jon Ayrton

Hidden - Lead RP - May/13

Hidden - Lead rpt - 25/Apr/13

Could not figure the sequence between 2nd and 3rd bolts, I suspect with the beta would not be too bad.
cdent - Lead dnf - 20/Apr/13 with Morna

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/13

Max Lowry - 2013

chakrit - Lead RP - 27/Oct/12

Retroflash
Tomar - Lead rpt - 30/Sep/12

brices - Lead rpt - 30/Sep/12 with Tomar

Hidden - Lead β - 20/Sep/12

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/12 with Leona

Hidden - Lead RP - 26/Aug/12

Billg - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/12 with Nik Goile

Hidden - Lead β - 26/Aug/12

first 7a!!
r_o_b_h2 - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/12 with Nik Goile

Quite a tough crux between second and third bolt but otherwise all good.
Stanley - Lead RP - 21/Aug/12 with Stanners

Could not work the lower sequence, good line though.
riddle - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/12 with Tara

Fell at the penultimate clip, should have been home and dry... Next time.
iforwms - Lead dog - 29/Jul/12 with Warner

Pete Rigby - Lead RP - 28/Jul/12 with Sean Murphy

retro flash, had been on a long time ago. awkward to climbing to start.
Rick hard Rock - Lead rpt - 26/Jul/12

dshearer - Lead RP - 22/Jul/12 with Paul Rogers

Hidden - Lead RP - 22/Jul/12

Not my day. Got very frustrated and ended up screaming "this is such a **** sport!" On my millionth fall. Injured my tendon as well! Finally found the crucial beta...climb shirtless. Got it clean straight away then! Had a dip in cheddar reservoir on way home to chill out a bit. Christ sport climbing can be frustrating.
Stanners - Lead rpt - 21/Jul/12 with Martin Stanfield

Iskander - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/12 with Vincent

will909 - Lead RP - 12/Jun/12

could not suss moves from 2nd to 3rd clip - unsure whether to go L or R and neither seemed to work. Frustrating
hms - TR dog - 29/May/12 with Jenny

Hidden - TR dog - 29/May/12

James Marshall - Lead - 12/May/12 with rupert

quiffhanger - Lead O/S - 06/May/12

Tim M - Lead rpt - May/12 with Emma

climbergg - 2nd - May/12 with cheesesarnie

A few rests after being tired/ psyched out from 'islands in the city'. Will get first go next time. Great route.
Stanners - Lead dog - 15/Apr/12 with James Rich, Jack Bradbrook

First 7a onsight. Just my style.
MarkRoe - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/12 with Matt Breakell

Garrouli - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/12 with Ioanna

Hidden - Lead RP - 29/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead dog - 28/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead dnf - 24/Dec/11

robbie Warke - Lead O/S - 23/Oct/11 with wendy sampson

First Try at a 7a. On-sighted :-D
The_Boy_ODwyer - Lead O/S - 23/Oct/11 with Paul Mealor

grp - Lead β - 23/Oct/11

danp - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/11

Had 2 attempts but found the crux so hard!
BeccaSnowden - Lead dog - 15/Oct/11 with Tom

thomasadixon - Lead rpt - 15/Oct/11 with Becca

1st red point, good route
mlg678 - Lead RP - 02/Oct/11

PhilR - Lead RP - 01/Oct/11 with Kylie

So close, just fall on one crux move, Ill get it soon :)
Stanley - Lead dog - 04/Sep/11 with Bethia Manson, Simon Green

Phil Belcher - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/11 with Dad

jonleighton - Lead RP - 03/Sep/11

Tough to cross left onto the slab. The rest straightforward.
Ian Bell - TR dog - 27/Aug/11 with Sebastian, Jasmina

Tired attempt at the end of the day
jonleighton - Lead dnf - 27/Aug/11

Gibbo - Lead dog - 13/Aug/11 with Maddy moore

andy dunn - Lead dog - 28/Jul/11 with Big Gay Jordo

Hidden - Lead rpt - 23/Jul/11

lukehodson - Lead rpt - 10/Jul/11 with Charlotte

Went wrong trying to make my way up initial groove and ha to rest. Then fell off after the overlap. Nothing too difficult. Think it would be doable clean 2nd go
monsteratt - Lead dog - 10/Jul/11 with Andrew Abraham

Hidden - Lead β - 10/Jul/11

2nd go
lukehodson - Lead RP - 03/Jul/11 with Ross Davidson

Was definitely screwballed with this one, ended up using part of the E4 in the middle.
Tom Brierley Gore - Lead dog - 02/Jul/11 with Shijing Hu

Several tries at going L by second bolt before finally spotting the key hold to go straight up
elliptic - Lead dog - 01/Jul/11 with Lisa

Had onsighted before but repeated today, enjoyable
BenNorman - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead RP - 26/Jun/11

PeterDawson - Lead RP - 29/May/11

Jus - Lead O/S - 08/May/11

harvie - Lead O/S - 02/May/11 with Luke Harvie

Bates - Lead RP - May/11

Nicola - Lead dog - 29/Apr/11 with Laurent

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/11

my first try: passing between second & third bolt directly feels like the crux. Moving right here seems off route and a bit scarier due to pendulum
Jon Didymus - Lead dog - 28/Apr/11 with Nick, Rich

Jack R-N - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/11

weakaaron - Lead - 22/Apr/11 with brooks

Caspian Johnson - Lead rpt - 22/Apr/11 with Jamie

Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/11 with duncan, nick

Billg - Lead O/S - 13/Mar/11 with James Kauntze

Retro Flash i suppose. Failed on this a couple of years ago in the rain. First go today. A bit soft.
Richard Hall - Lead - 07/Mar/11 with Raf, James Marshall

jominator - Lead - Mar/11 with realchardarmy

Hidden - Lead RP - 2011

maby easier with beta
Luke Dawson - Lead O/S - 09/Oct/10

Good to come back and do this again. Cool move in the middle.
Jon_Warner - Lead rpt - 18/Sep/10 with Alex

will have to come back and do it clean! good fun
gknyus - 2nd dog - 18/Sep/10 with Warner the Kurd

2nd go.
tom.e - Lead RP - 09/Sep/10 with Charlie Everett

I don't onsight many 7a's so this may have been a bit soft
felixthelion - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/10 with T. Brookes

tommytuffa - Lead β - 28/Aug/10 with Dan L, Felix

Nicola - Lead rpt - 15/Aug/10

Going so far right lower down feels off route but there is only one possible line.
marcduhig - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/10 with Nicola

Cowflinger - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/10 with Suzanne

Amy Kilpin - TR - 07/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead RP - 07/Aug/10

Hidden - TR dog - 01/Aug/10

Watched some guys on it, and ended up also going out right before a hard sequence onto the jug and the 3rd clip. Great climbing after that.
DrGav - Lead β - 01/Aug/10 with Wendy

Nicola - TR dog - 31/Jul/10

First 7a with one top-roped practice.
Nicola - Lead RP - 31/Jul/10 with Ade

Nicola - TR rpt - 31/Jul/10

Nicola - TR rpt - 31/Jul/10

Ade7 - TR β - 31/Jul/10 with Nicola

First 7a after 2 TRs
Ade7 - Lead RP - 31/Jul/10 with Liz

thomasadixon - Lead rpt - 25/Jul/10 with Matt Frank

i_a_coops - Lead β - 25/Jul/10

jacobjacob - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead β - 24/Jul/10

Wendy - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/10 with Tom Holloway

Greg Pittam - Lead β - 20/Jul/10 with Raff

Hidden - Lead β - 19/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead - 17/Jul/10

koalapie - Lead RP - 17/Jul/10

Repeat
ericinbristol - Lead rpt - 17/Jul/10 with Max

brices - Lead RP - 10/Jul/10

Nice route, quite steady apart from one trickier section which warrants 7a
Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/10 with Zoe, Alex, Ben

Flash. Saw Jay doing it first. Tricky arch section.
Tomar - Lead β - 09/Jul/10 with "Brosky"

Dan Jenkin - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/10 with Gordon Jenkin

Nick Allan - Lead RP - Jul/10

Hidden - TR dog - 23/Jun/10

One section seems very hard...until you find the hold that makes it easy.
thomasadixon - Lead RP - 23/Jun/10 with Ross

Caspian Johnson - Lead dog - 13/Jun/10 with Julian

Rowansb - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/10 with Mungo Nash

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/May/10

3rd attempt. Should have got it on the 2nd go, but fluffed the crux. Bit annoyed by that.
jelaby - Lead RP - 11/Apr/10 with CoffeePot

Richard Horn - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/10

Hidden - Lead RP - 2010

tom harrison - 2010

Hidden - Lead β - 10/Oct/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/09

scorpia97 - Lead dog - 27/Sep/09 with Paul

Hidden - Lead RP - 11/Sep/09

Stefan Kruger - Lead RP - 08/Aug/09 with Sarah Porter

belay bunny turned bad - TR - 27/Jul/09 with marcus

hard to onsight, very reasonable if you know where the holds are.
Dan_Carroll - Lead RP - 23/Jun/09 with Eric Herring

Hidden - Lead β - 28/May/09

Tricky if you miss the hold on the left.
Paz - Lead rpt - 28/May/09 with TI

Stone Muppet - Lead RP - 24/May/09 with jg

Hidden - Lead RP - 10/May/09

richiebongo - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - Mar/09

bpmclimb - Lead RP - 12/Sep/08 with Clare

None of the moves are unreasonably hard - I think this will go next time (famous last words!)
bpmclimb - Lead dog - 03/Sep/08 with Clare

Hidden - Lead RP - 20/Jul/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - Mar/08

Went quite far ot right at 3rd clip. First 7a.
Jon_Warner - Lead RP - 09/Feb/08 with Ahmed

Ghosty - TR dnf - 09/Feb/08 with John Warner

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Oct/07

guy xavier percival - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/07 with mark

Nice route but there is a small side pull out right which I needed to use to gain the bottom of the arch and I found that I had to put my thumb over my figures like a side crimp before I could benefit from it.
BennyBoy - Lead RP - Sep/07 with Dylan Burgess

JPGR - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/07 with Yvette

Paul Robertson - Lead rpt - 17/Aug/07 with Mark Courtiour

Hidden - Lead rpt - 23/Jun/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/07

Hidden - 2007

westyb3 - Lead O/S - Oct/06

QDs were in.
Paz - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/06 with AS, FM

phsharpy - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/06 with Adrian

Jo McCready - Lead - Apr/06 with Steve Yeoman

Marti999 - Lead - 2006

steve_yo - Lead O/S - 2006

eddieclimb - Lead RP - 20/Jul/05 with Dan Savory

Hidden - Lead β - 28/Mar/05

chris sm - Lead O/S - Jul/04

John Southworth - Lead O/S - Mar/04 with Rich Smith

cornishben - Lead RP - 2004 with Chris Sims

_m.cox_ - Lead O/S - 2004 with Will Eveson

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
maresia, Lucas H, Hidden, shazza65, J1_TOV, jacobjohncharles, Hidden, Hidden, jonnyblindsign, chrisweight, Hidden, josh baldwin, JackMac, Hidden, iforwms, stevorobs3, dan23584, Emma-Louise Anderson, Hidden, cha1n, Jack R-N, Chubbard

Voting
Total votes cast 110
hard 7a+0 of 58
7a+0 of 58
easy 7a+0 of 58
hard 7a2 of 58
7a27 of 58
easy 7a25 of 58
hard 6c+4 of 58
6c+0 of 58
easy 6c+0 of 58
3 Stars0 of 52
2 Stars35 of 52
1 Star17 of 52
0 Stars0 of 52
Bag of .....0 of 52
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Style of ascent

Lead185 of 204 (90.7%)
Followed3 of 204 (1.5%)
Toproped13 of 204 (6.4%)
Unknown3 of 204 (1.5%)

'Climbed'13 of 204 (6.4%)
clean O/S58 of 204 (28.4%)
clean β19 of 204 (9.3%)
clean rpt27 of 204 (13.2%)
clean RP50 of 204 (24.5%)
dogged32 of 204 (15.7%)
dnf5 of 204 (2.5%)