UKC

34m.

Rockfax Description
A tremendous line and climb. Start at the appealing full height groove behind the massive yew tree. Climb the very sustained groove in its entirety. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The obvious full-height groove in the centre of the Right Hand buttress, which some consider tough for 4b. The crack will swallow as much gear as you care to place.

There's a tree with abseil tat at the top, but it's often quicker to abseil off the larger tree to the left (assuming nobody is on Cadillac) or can you walk off (with care, belay recommended).

F Cannings, P R Littlejohn, G Morgan 14/Feb/1970.

Ticklists

100 More Classic British VS Climbs , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , Orange Spot Lower Wye , A Worthwhile Weekend at Wyndcliffe , Welcome to CUMC , But what have you done on South-East Wales Sandstone/Limestone? , Wye Valley 10 x 10 , Wye's it a trad classic (up to HVS)? , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS) , Bristol Area Easy Trad Ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
freelunchprovider 24 Nov, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Only 4b in the original guide,but getting a bit polished now
Show beta
βeta: Only 4b in the original guide,but getting a bit polished now
mikedunk 23 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Multiple disconnected blocks
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Multiple disconnected blocks
springfall2008 21 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: There's a section lower down where you have to go out left a little, lay-back and then step back right into the crack.
Show beta
βeta: There's a section lower down where you have to go out left a little, lay-back and then step back right into the crack.
George Geo 6 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Very polished and difficult to retrieve gear. Gear is bomber wherever you place it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very polished and difficult to retrieve gear. Gear is bomber wherever you place it.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 185
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 179
Votes cast 154
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Crack of Dawn

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Patience)

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