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Pilier des Cathares*** 6a

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7 pitches. The original line here was put up in 1984 and then re-equipped in 1995. The harder sections are well protected, but bolting is spaced out on the easier parts, including a grade 3 pitch (P6 ), which has just a belay point at the top. The route is often done with a quick pull on a couple of bolts on the polished crux on pitch 5, reducing the over-all grade to a sustained 5+. 1) 5. Easy-angled slabs setting off from the memorial plaque. 2) 5. A short pitch heading to the right with a sneaky foot-traverse to reach the stance. 3) 5+. Another short one though pretty tough for the grade. 4) 5. A fine and varied pitch that finishes at the higher of the two belay points. 5) 5. Some fine slab-climbing. 6) 6a+. The roof at the start of the pitch is the crux of the route, which is somewhat polished and can be tackled free at 6a+, or with two points of aid at a more amenable 5+/A0. 7) An easy scramble, but it has some dubious rock and no fixed gear except the belay point at the top. Walk 20m to find the start of the final pitch. 8) 5+. Loop through the roof from left to right the finish easily taking care with some loose rock. © ROCKFAX
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 25 logbooks, and on no wishlists.

P1 - La Zipette P2 - Avis la copulation Joined Pilier at end of P3
Matt Cooke - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/14 with Nick Jones

adamjeffs - AltLd O/S - 28/May/14 with dad

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 10/Apr/14

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Nov/13

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Nov/13

Hidden - AltLd - 30/Sep/13

A few spaced bolts, small selection of nuts useful. I led pitches 1 and 2 (5a+ and 5b) in one long pitch; swung on the final bolt to reach the belay and I couldn't find any holds - the way to do it is apparently to go high and foot traverse with the bolt below your feet. C led the 5c pitch, which was nails for the grade, but I somehow managed to follow without cheating. I led the 5a pitch, very distant 1st bolt. Carmen then led the aid pitch (would be far harder than the advertised 6a to lead free), and I discovered that it's quite hard to aid a pitch when there's 35m of rope stretch above you. The 30m 3a pitch turned out to be 15m and a walk. C led the final pitch with one hard move. A good route with some fine climbing, but rather unbalanced and let down a bit by the need for aid.
Simon Caldwell - AltLd - 15/Oct/12 with Carmen

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Oct/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Sep/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Sep/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/12

paul horabin - AltLd - 2012

led 1, 3 and 5
abbeywall - AltLd - 08/Oct/11 with K

Lead 1,4,7.
Mike_Watson_99 - AltLd - 06/Oct/11 with Ewan, Fiona

Led pitch 2 and 5. Good route, pitches 2 and 3 very interesting! Aided the 5c/A0 crux on pitch 5 as landing on my back didn't seem too appealing. If you're tall enough to reach the "big jug" then it's perfectly feasible, if you're 5ft 2" then it's pretty tricky.
Fiona Reid - AltLd - 06/Oct/11 with Mike, Ewan

rd20 - AltLd O/S - 25/Apr/11 with Patrick

Superb route, wandered onto Arabesque but soon got back on route again. Free-climbed the aid move on Pitch 5.
mattgrange - AltLd - 01/Apr/11

Ollie Rattue - 2011

Led pitches 2,4 & 6. Awesome route. Found the lower section quite intimidating. Free climbed 5th pitch.
borderline - AltLd - 09/Oct/10 with FM

ian storey - AltLd O/S - Oct/10 with sam

PhilR - AltLd - 01/Sep/10 with Kylie

Hidden - AltLd - Feb/08

The alternative start is very good
Shaw Brown - AltLd - 11/Apr/07 with simon blythe

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Oct/03

Hidden - May/99

Voting
Total votes cast 11
hard 6a+0 of 5
6a+0 of 5
easy 6a+0 of 5
hard 6a0 of 5
6a5 of 5
easy 6a0 of 5
hard 5c0 of 5
5c0 of 5
easy 5c0 of 5
3 Stars2 of 6
2 Stars4 of 6
1 Star0 of 6
0 Stars0 of 6
Bag of .....0 of 6
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Style of ascent

Lead1 of 25 (4.0%)
Followed1 of 25 (4.0%)
Alt Leads21 of 25 (84.0%)
Unknown2 of 25 (8.0%)

'Climbed'16 of 25 (64.0%)
clean O/S8 of 25 (32.0%)
dnf1 of 25 (4.0%)