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Pilier des Cathares*** 6a

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7 pitches. The original way up this section of rock. 7 pitches, the necessary bolts and belays are in place but a small rack might be useful for more nervous climbers. L1 - 4c; L2 - 5b ("Orange Mechanique", a direct start which climbs to the second belay, goes at F5+ and is a recommended alternative to L1&2); L3 - F5c; L4 - F5a; L5 F6a or F5+/A0; L6 - F3 (not equipped); L7 - F5b. The technical crux is the start of L5 but this is out of character with the rest of the route; it can easily be aided. Descend via the chateau and scree slopes behind. If retreating or abseiling off (not recommended), double ropes or a single 80m rope will be required.
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 19 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

A few spaced bolts, small selection of nuts useful. I led pitches 1 and 2 (5a+ and 5b) in one long pitch; swung on the final bolt to reach the belay and I couldn't find any holds - the way to do it is apparently to go high and foot traverse with the bolt below your feet. C led the 5c pitch, which was nails for the grade, but I somehow managed to follow without cheating. I led the 5a pitch, very distant 1st bolt. Carmen then led the aid pitch (would be far harder than the advertised 6a to lead free), and I discovered that it's quite hard to aid a pitch when there's 35m of rope stretch above you. The 30m 3a pitch turned out to be 15m and a walk. C led the final pitch with one hard move. A good route with some fine climbing, but rather unbalanced and let down a bit by the need for aid.
Toreador - AltLd - 15/Oct/12 with Carmen

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Oct/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Sep/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Sep/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/12

paul horabin - AltLd - 2012

led 1, 3 and 5
abbeywall - AltLd - 08/Oct/11 with K

Lead 1,4,7.
Mike_Watson_99 - AltLd - 06/Oct/11 with Ewan, Fiona

Led pitch 2 and 5. Good route, pitches 2 and 3 very interesting! Aided the 5c/A0 crux on pitch 5 as landing on my back didn't seem too appealing. If you're tall enough to reach the "big jug" then it's perfectly feasible, if you're 5ft 2" then it's pretty tricky.
Fiona Reid - AltLd - 06/Oct/11 with Mike, Ewan

rd20 - AltLd O/S - 25/Apr/11 with Patrick

Superb route, wandered onto Arabesque but soon got back on route again. Free-climbed the aid move on Pitch 5.
mattgrange - AltLd - 01/Apr/11

Ollie Rattue - 2011

Led pitches 2,4 & 6. Awesome route. Found the lower section quite intimidating. Free climbed 5th pitch.
borderline - AltLd - 09/Oct/10 with FM

ian storey - AltLd O/S - Oct/10 with sam

PhilR - AltLd - 01/Sep/10 with Kylie

Hidden - AltLd - Feb/08

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Apr/07

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Oct/03

Hidden - May/99

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Voting
Total votes cast 5
hard 6a+0 of 2
6a+0 of 2
easy 6a+0 of 2
hard 6a0 of 2
6a2 of 2
easy 6a0 of 2
hard 5+0 of 2
5+0 of 2
easy 5+0 of 2
3 Stars1 of 3
2 Stars2 of 3
1 Star0 of 3
0 Stars0 of 3
Bag of .....0 of 3
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