Stirlingshire > Auchinstarry Quarry >
 
Nijinski*** E5 6a

Adjacent Climbs
<< Nijinski is the Hunter
 
Blade Runner >>
[Nijinski Crux, 1 kb]A great line that should be reserved for a great lead. Balance up the bold arete to a good hold, then move up and left to the thin crack of Death is the Hunter. Fill this with small wires, step back down, then move up and right to the arete. The bold and committing climbing above (crux) is best finished direct.
D. Cuthbertson 1982

Ticklists: Central Belt Extremes, Central Belt - Local Classics, Glasgow Climbers Whistlestop.

Photo: Nijinski Crux © smokey
View all 6 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 129 logbooks, and on 10 wishlists.

gjd - TR rpt - 07/Sep/14

Working...
olekemi - TR dnf - 04/Sep/14 with Mark G

Top-roped twice first
alex_arthur - Lead RP - 30/Aug/14 with Kyle

redjerry - Lead - 25/Aug/14 with Fiend

Hidden - TR dog - 13/Jul/14

Hidden - TR - 13/Jul/14

Headpointed using preplaced gear. Now to place it on lead.
EBailey - Lead RP - 19/Jun/14

First E5!!! that was a little scary!!
Willismorris - Lead RP - 23/Apr/14 with euanryan

3rd go clean, then several clean ascents after that. Still not ballsy enough to get on the lead though...
euanryan - TR RP - 23/Apr/14 with Willis

ctbaird - TR RP - 22/Nov/13

Amazing route, one of the best and has two amazing rest (31.9.10). Got back on this epic today and linked it clean, no longer has the two rest but doesn't make it much harder at the bottom tbh, Found it fair for the grade and the crux is pretty foot thin if am being honest, a truly big lead to try.
dmacmorris - TR RP - 08/Sep/13

Clean twice more on TR before. I got to the crux but didn't want to commit to the move around the corner but managed to reach my ropes.
Harry Holmes - Solo dnf - 17/Jul/13

4 times clean on the shunt. Suppose I'll have to lead it now.
Harry Holmes - TR RP - 16/Jul/13

Hidden - TR dog - 11/Jul/13

Three go's on TR, second two clean...
JLS - TR rpt - 11/Jul/13 with Koon M.

Hidden - TR - 11/Jul/13

Koon - TR RP - 10/Jul/13 with John Sharples

a bit harder at the start since the piece fell off.
gjd - TR rpt - 22/Jun/13 with Sam Burns

Felt better this time, rock was cleaner and less damp. Move around the corner still as hard.
Roberttaylor - TR dog - 28/Feb/13 with Thomas Wall

Still not getting this consistently. One move going round the arete) gets me every time. Lower section (up to the jug) seems harder than it was a couple of years ago?
Roberttaylor - TR dog - 12/Feb/13

james mcclung - TR dog - 11/Nov/12

Mossdawg - TR dog - 11/Nov/12 with james mcclung

Climbed arete direct from quartz band, didn't know that people stepped right into blade runner for gear and jugs. great climb and safe, 4 micro wires equalised in pairs and then climbed on double ropes.
nwdave - Lead RP - 18/Aug/12

Just for the hell of it lol. Self belay.
Denpov - TR rpt - 07/Aug/12

redjerry - TR rpt - 31/Jul/12

Just to do it better. Self Belay. F, x5
Denpov - TR rpt - 30/Jul/12

4th. delighted. :o) self belay.
Denpov - TR RP - 26/Jul/12

heywoodj - TR RP - 19/Jun/12

seems kind of improbable, good balance is essential
freyja - TR O/S - 01/Jun/12 with ewan

Self belay 1
Denpov - TR dog - 23/Mar/12

Self Belay. 1
Denpov - TR dog - 19/Mar/12

Hidden - 2nd - 2012

Ruari Brooker - TR dog - 02/Nov/11

redjerry - TR O/S - Jul/11

Hidden - TR RP - 20/Jun/11

Nibs - TR dog - 20/Jun/11 with Kevin

sneaks - TR dog - 20/Jun/11 with janey

HeatReactor - TR dog - 15/Jun/11

Mhairi G - TR RP - 14/Jun/11 with Eve

Milesy - TR - 14/Jun/11

Mhairi G - TR dog - 06/Jun/11 with Patrick

Hidden - TR dnf - 14/May/11

Really nice climbing, really doubt I will ever lead this...insane!
sebrider - 2nd β - 08/May/11 with Topher

Block fallen / removed from 2m and a smaller one from R of arete at upper crux. Starting moves a bit harder for sure.
Dr Toph - Lead rpt - 08/May/11 with Lasma, Seb

Lasma - 2nd β - 08/May/11 with sebrider, Dr Toph

Mhairi G - TR dog - 03/May/11 with Patrick

got it clean 4 or 5 times now, thinking about getting on the lead :-S
Pat-H - TR - 30/Apr/11 with andy

Definitely a project. Will finish it though.
Josh.Balling - TR dnf - 20/Apr/11 with Chris Boyd, Peter McMaster

Mhairi G - TR dog - 24/Mar/11 with Patrick

Pat-H - TR dog - 24/Mar/11 with mhairi

Score! Honestly felt easier on lead than on toprope cos there was more at stake! Filled the crack with 4 micros equalised by using twin ropes (thanks Topher). The gear is better than people make it out to be. Brassy microwires worked best.
Alejandro S - Lead RP - 17/Aug/10 with Brendan

jamiefoxen - TR rpt - 22/Jul/10

a long term project methinks. way above my grade right now
THardSevere - TR dnf - 16/May/10 with tom rust

Hidden - TR dog - 16/May/10

o dear. the moves are kinda there but need linked big time!!!!
rustyclimber91 - TR dog - 16/May/10 with tom hs

As Tom says, a long-term project!
ladislav - TR dnf - 16/May/10 with Thomas Henderson Schwartz, Tom Rust

KeithAlexander - TR dog - 11/May/10 with Graeme Diack

GraemeDiack - TR dog - 11/May/10 with Keith Alexander

first thing i've headpointed, went nice and smoothly.
Andy Moles - Lead RP - 10/Mar/10 with Liam, Ferdia

Liam Ingram - 2nd - 10/Mar/10 with Andy Moles

rested on the crux
ferdia - TR dog - 10/Mar/10 with Andy

rclarke - Lead RP - 09/Mar/10 with Dave Brigham

Nearly clean!
Liam Ingram - TR - 09/Mar/10 with Jamie Sparkes

not close today
JamieSparkes - TR - 09/Mar/10 with Liam Ingram

pete87abs - TR rpt - 06/Mar/10 with Richard Clarke

jackse - TR - 2010

Hidden - TR dog - 22/Oct/09

easy when you know how...
Dr Toph - Lead RP - 22/Oct/09 with Ed

finally got this, may have been a little tension in the rope so going to have to get back on it. still an outstanding route mind!
JamieSparkes - TR RP - 17/Oct/09 with Robert Taylor

Took the fall three times trying to do the crux the hard way. Numpty! Gear crack was full of mud, take a thin nut tool up to clean out the placements!
Dr Toph - Lead dog - 15/Oct/09

Liam Ingram - TR - 14/Oct/09 with Peter Sajjad

Hold lost!
JamieSparkes - TR dog - 14/Oct/09 with Jamie Foxen

first climb done with head torch.
jamiefoxen - TR rpt - 14/Oct/09

allyrocke - TR dog - 13/Oct/09 with Robbie

paulpitcher - TR RP - 12/Oct/09 with Tim

A fantastic climb with a brilliant set of moves.
willjh - TR O/S - 20/Sep/09 with Jamface

Hidden - 02/Sep/09

Top roped a couple of times then soloed it, more like E6, serious!
willackers - Solo RP - 16/Jun/09 with Cassidy, Cobes, DAbeast

Cassidy - Solo RP - 16/Jun/09 with Cobra, Will, Duboost

Climbed it without knowing the grade, well chuffed I did it without falling off. As for leading it...not on your life!
Fiona Reid - TR - 03/May/09 with Mike

1 session. Top roped clean first time, another go on toprope. Then...the clean lead. Worldclass! First E5
dj_brigham05 - Lead RP - 08/Apr/09 with Don Macrae

Hidden - Lead RP - 08/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead β - 20/Mar/09

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Mar/09

Top roped out of interest. Sparse!
ShoePolice - TR dog - 21/Feb/09 with Kate & Duncs

Hidden - Lead β - 06/Dec/08

kept losing footing on the quartz band, will do it clean with new shoes.
JamieSparkes - TR dog - 29/Nov/08

Hidden - TR O/S - 15/Nov/08

Was half way up then it started to rain! no chance of completion, maybe the weather gods will favor me another day.
AlexanderBuglass - TR dnf - 22/Oct/08 with Micheal Montgomery

Magnificent. One to lead in the future...
McBirdy - TR O/S - 06/Sep/08 with Helen Darvill

Hidden - TR dog - 30/Aug/08

lelaitcondense - TR - 21/Jul/08

MonkeyDawson - TR O/S - 08/Jun/08

andymoin - TR dog - 14/May/08 with Chemhoyish

beegsyboy - TR β - 09/May/08 with Neil C

Top roped it cleanly, but crack for gear choked with mud so no chance to have a proper look at the almost worthless placements!
andyinglis - TR - 05/May/08 with Monica

Hidden - TR - 05/May/08

jaybob - TR - Feb/08 with ally

Russ82 - 2008

Lawrie Brand - TR rpt - 30/Aug/07 with Shunt

Building up to the lead. Absolutely terrifying!
Stewart B - TR O/S - 20/Jul/07 with Karen McIntyre

marcfoggo - TR - May/07 with Grant Bruce

Hidden - TR dog - 28/Apr/07

westaway - Lead O/S - 2007

managed to find some gear but its only to make you feel better as i doubt it would hold!
dodfoster - Lead RP - 03/Nov/06 with jake rogers

Just trying out something harder. Maybe in a few years!
beegsyboy - TR dnf - 05/Jul/06

Lawrie Brand - TR dog - 15/Jun/06 with Angie Taylor

paulpitcher - TR RP - May/06 with Angus Dell

pocketsarah - TR - 2006

PeteH - TR O/S - 2006 with Adam Nelson

fireman_al - Lead rpt - Jan/04 with Paul McDonald

Neil Adams - TR O/S - 2004

samwelli - TR - 22/Feb/03 with Reuben Brown

stugreen75 - TR O/S - 2000

Completed after TR Practice, still hard!
Scottish78 - Lead RP - 13/May/99 with David Lawrance

An impressive lead by Will in slimy conditions, too hard for me!
Chad123 - 2nd dog - 1998 with Will

greenroom - Lead O/S - 1998

Hidden - TR RP - 1997

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead O/S - 13/May/94

Jon Read - Solo RP - Jul/92 with Andy Dixon

Hidden - TR rpt - 03/Jun/92

innes - Lead RP - 1991

Dave Douglas - Lead RP - 14/Sep/90

Neil R - TR - 18/Aug/90 with Sharon

Hidden - TR O/S - 13/Jun/90

mark mcgowan01 - 1984 with Colin Gourley

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - TR - Jun/80

neil3965 - TR O/S - 1980

don.husband - 1980

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
gurumed, Stevie989, euanryan, Timothy Miller, dmacmorris, Robert93, ladislav, Hidden, Ian Jones, andy16

Voting
Total votes cast 71
hard E60 of 20
E60 of 20
easy E64 of 20
hard E53 of 20
E59 of 20
easy E53 of 20
hard E41 of 20
E40 of 20
easy E40 of 20
hard 6b0 of 26
6b0 of 26
easy 6b1 of 26
hard 6a0 of 26
6a22 of 26
easy 6a3 of 26
hard 5c0 of 26
5c0 of 26
easy 5c0 of 26
3 Stars24 of 25
2 Stars1 of 25
1 Star0 of 25
0 Stars0 of 25
Bag of .....0 of 25
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed4 of 129 (3.1%)
Lead23 of 129 (17.8%)
Followed6 of 129 (4.7%)
Toproped92 of 129 (71.3%)
Unknown4 of 129 (3.1%)

'Climbed'26 of 129 (20.2%)
clean O/S15 of 129 (11.6%)
clean β5 of 129 (3.9%)
clean rpt13 of 129 (10.1%)
clean RP30 of 129 (23.3%)
dogged32 of 129 (24.8%)
dnf8 of 129 (6.2%)