Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.
GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.
North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made.
All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.
Dates: 1 March to 15 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.
Peregrins nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pithes of left hand route (from the great ledge)
Rockfax Description
Interesting moves throughout. Start as for The Split.
1) 5a, 13m. The Split pitch 1.
2) 5a, 12m. Gain the horizontal break and traverse left to a ledge. Head back right to a groove and follow it to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Climb the first pitch as per "The Split" - VS 5a.
Traverse left and mount the obvious shelf. Step up and place good gear here and make a couple of difficult moves right until established in the crack. Climb the crack to the top.
CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS) , 23 HVS routes for 2023
User | Date | Notes | ||
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el_tiburon_malo | 1 Jan, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Easily linked as one pitch with a 40m rope; liberally extend protection. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Easily linked as one pitch with a 40m rope; liberally extend protection. |
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PaulJepson | 3 Dec, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: If it's close to your limit then not a bad idea to do in 2 pitches. The gear on p2 crux is bomber but with a load of rope out you need a decent belayer to keep you off the ledge. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: If it's close to your limit then not a bad idea to do in 2 pitches. The gear on p2 crux is bomber but with a load of rope out you need a decent belayer to keep you off the ledge. |
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springfall2008 | 1 Jun, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: On the second pitch, after mounting the ledge you need to head up and right, there's a small foothold you need to get up to, foot swap and then bridge out right to the crack. | ||
Show beta
βeta: On the second pitch, after mounting the ledge you need to head up and right, there's a small foothold you need to get up to, foot swap and then bridge out right to the crack. |
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Shorn Cliff)