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Right Hand Route HS 4b

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[First Pitch, Right hand Route HS 4b, North Wall, Wintours leap, Wye Valley., 3 kb]86m. The North Wall

Photo: First Pitch, Right hand Route HS 4b, North Wall, Wintours leap, Wye Valley. © Strange little creature
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 250 logbooks, and on 9 wishlists.

1st and 3rd pitch, Jonny 2nd.
Ben Watts - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/14 with Jonny Williams

Led P2 and P3, lovely route, definitely HS 4b but low in the grade. Good for aspiring HS leaders :D
BStar - AltLd rpt - 28/Jul/14 with Will Dean

lead P1, Adman lead P2 and 3. what a brave human. Muny took him up seconding and he lead it within 2 months, so now the torch has been passed.
wjcdean - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/14 with Adam Bird

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Jul/14

1st and 2nd run together
matjam - AltLd rpt - 12/Jul/14

Lead P2 and 3. Quite easy for the grade. S 4a I reckon.
Merlin - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/14 with Phil Chalkley

Wet on P1 (SC), dry on P2 (MD) Moved off onto Angels Girdle after P2
localboy - AltLd rpt - 08/Jul/14 with Simon C

Jamesmurphy448 - 2nd O/S - 03/Jul/14 with Catherine Quick, Joe Fraser

really love the top pitch on this route. Peg could do with replacement, seriously agricultural piece of gear.
Kemics - AltLd rpt - 22/Jun/14 with Jon

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 18/Jun/14

p4 then ab off to ledge
localboy - Lead rpt - 17/Jun/14 with Simon C, Simon F

MP Great top half, Good rock!
Jon Pilling - Lead O/S - 16/May/14 with Sttevei Atalla

Hidden - AltLd - 05/May/14

AngelaC - AltLd - 04/May/14 with Jeremy

With Deni and Stanke
martinov - Lead O/S - 03/May/14

Lil-Lid - 2nd O/S - 21/Apr/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/14

MrJWilliams92 - Lead - 18/Apr/14

Lead p1, Muny lead p2+p3 missed out p4 due to time. Great climb, pitch 3 is very interesting, but good holds are usually in reach. It probably deserves 1 star.
BStar - AltLd O/S - 17/Apr/14 with Rosy, Muny

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Apr/14

Hidden - AltLd β - 20/Mar/14

Slept on great ledge
arose - 2nd - 14/Mar/14 with Giles Cranston

davidclare - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/14 with Lewis Edwards, Klara Marsikova

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Mar/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Nov/13

mossrug - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/13

P2
MJAS82 - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/13

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Aug/13

Led P2 & 3, showers throughout.
Will Gordon - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/13 with Chris Jose

GDS - 2nd - 18/Aug/13 with BCC

Archlucifer - 2nd O/S - 18/Aug/13 with Alan Veal

colinthomson5 - Lead - 28/Jul/13 with Andrew Patten

Linked p1+2
matt1024 - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/13

jacobjlloyd - 2nd rpt - 30/Jun/13

daverichris - 27/Jun/13

clutzoc - 2nd O/S - 22/Jun/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/13

Led P1 and half of P2. Simon Finished
Fatclimber - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/13 with Simon Horridge

Linked pitches 3/4. Super soft route. Severe 4a? But really good. Probably the most fun I had on a route all day.
Kemics - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Groovy James

I ran P1 and P2 together and shared the belay tree with some climbers from Guildford Mounttaineering club who were climbing Nibelheim. Easy climbing, easy to run out and a surprisingly clean pleasant climb.
puppythedog - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Kemics

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 07/Jun/13

jage - 06/Jun/13

Did in 3 pitches, lead 2nd pitch
pftom - AltLd O/S - 01/Jun/13

rosiehawker - AltLd O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Tom Grady

leeoftroy - Lead O/S - Jun/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/May/13

Dan3266 - AltLd O/S - 18/May/13 with james rose, Simon Gladstone

Led P1 & P4 James Led P2 Dan's first lead on P3
GStone - AltLd O/S - 18/May/13 with James Rose, Dan Bennett

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/May/13

andycash - AltLd O/S - 06/May/13 with Ray Sullivan

wealer - Lead - May/13

Lead P1 so we could get to the start of Notung on the Middle tier
alexjz - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/13 with Jon Ayrton

Quality route! Lovely weather too :)
KitRabbette - Lead β - 02/Mar/13 with Lauren Ford

LaurenFord - 2nd O/S - 02/Mar/13

ianto - 2013

Hidden - 2013

birge55 - AltLd - 2013

Hidden - 2013

KitRabbette - 2nd O/S - 09/Dec/12 with David Clover

rachchanter - 16/Sep/12

Dirty and vegetated
wurzelinzummerset - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/12 with Phil

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 08/Sep/12

Mick Riley - 2nd β - 07/Sep/12 with Dominic

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/12

jacobjlloyd - 2nd β - 25/Jul/12 with Tony

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/12

Lead pitches 1 and 4, Dave combined pitches 2 and 3 together into one long pitch. Lovely climb, fairly straight forward route finding - but slightly overgrown in places. Need to abseil off now as house at top of route no longer allows climbers access through garden.
NCorbett - AltLd - 18/Jul/12

Muny 1 Trev 2. Me 3 - like a geriatric waiter carrying trays - which was a shame after recent triumphs. Finished up Bacchanalian Watch out for the loose stuff at top of p2
PaulWatson - AltLd β - 12/Jun/12 with Muny, Trevor

Climbed P1 only, then continued on Nibelheim
Kirill - 2nd O/S - 09/Jun/12 with Elise Belle, Charles Moreton

p1 only.
cem - 2nd - 09/Jun/12 with Elise Belle, Kirill Spiridonov

Hidden - 2nd β - 09/Jun/12

Moved together and did it really quickly. I found the move through the v-shaped groove harder than Charlie as he could reach the top! The 'easy chimney' at the end was fun. Had to ab off in 4 as we only had one 60m rope.
Katherine Ross - Lead O/S - 31/May/12 with Charlie Beard

Simul-climbed this one with ~15 m spacing. The top chimney was entertaining!
cbeard - 2nd O/S - 31/May/12 with Katherine Ross

CChafer - AltLd O/S - 29/May/12

Lead first pitch
bannin79 - AltLd O/S - 28/May/12 with Tony Penning

Greg Pittam - AltLd O/S - 26/May/12 with Joanna Bulgar

jbulger - AltLd - 26/May/12 with Greg Pittam

seconded 1 and lead 2 and 3
matjam - AltLd - 20/May/12

martinp - 20/May/12 with Dave S and Alan C

Eike - 2nd - 13/May/12 with Helen Brewitt

atbboy - AltLd - 12/May/12

sopping wet, in approach shoes
kirsten - AltLd - 09/May/12 with Jeremy

SamStokes - Lead rpt - 06/May/12 with Emily Stokes

Duncan Turner - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/12 with stu

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 06/Apr/12

Me led P1, Paul led P2, P3 strung together, me led P4.
Country_Boy - AltLd - 24/Mar/12 with Paul

sbc - AltLd O/S - 14/Feb/12 with John P, Joe M

popov86 - 14/Feb/12

Neil Stansbie - Lead - 2012

All done by head torch and hauled bags up in the dark!
jack1996 - 2nd O/S - 23/Oct/11 with tom s

I led P1 P3, Jenny led P2 P4. Really enjoyable.
Country_Boy - AltLd O/S - 16/Oct/11 with Jenny

With Oli
patrickc - AltLd - Oct/11

hazeysunshine - AltLd O/S - 24/Sep/11 with HB, Val P

Jon Pilling - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/11 with Kenny Howard

Climbed many times. Best being when we slept on great ledge and finished route in morning. Toughest being the solo.
JamesColeman - Solo rpt - 26/Aug/11

4th pitch only in the dark.
localboy - 2nd - 23/Aug/11 with Simon C, Simon F

jon_ridley - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/11 with Gavin Oliver

groliver26 - 2nd O/S - 21/Aug/11 with Jon Ridley

4th pitch only, after doing joe's route. Great finish to the day. Free climbed by Jamie. Climbed the small chimney to the left of the tower (as facing wall) very tight moves and tough bridging in such a small space.
Jonathan Storey - 2nd rpt - 13/Jul/11 with JamieC

Ruth ND - 2nd O/S - 10/Jul/11 with Dave, Mai Wong

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Jul/11

joeym - AltLd - 06/Jul/11 with sbc

Only did 1st pitch to retrieve a nut which I had dropped off Nibelheim.
Dave 88 - Lead dnf - 01/Jul/11 with John Willson

Hidden - AltLd - 29/Jun/11

Last pitch only. Simon C lead.
localboy - 2nd rpt - 21/Jun/11 with Simon C, Simon F

Hidden - Lead - Jun/11

Mick Riley - AltLd O/S - 21/May/11

Led 2nd and 3rd pitches as one, was concentrating so much I just kept going past the belay. Nice exposed crux moves on the 2nd pitch.
GC - AltLd O/S - 11/May/11 with Paul Saunders

P2 and P4.
LJC - AltLd O/S - 02/May/11 with ben.richards

This is a great route (once past the discardable 1st pitch) I Led P1 and P3, Luca led P2 and P4. Nice and bold slab on P3 - never been so happy to see a peg!
ben.richards - AltLd O/S - 02/May/11 with Luca Celano

Worthwhile despite some worrying loose rock near 2nd belay.
Phil Murray - AltLd O/S - 24/Apr/11 with Liz

cjohn62 - 2nd - 24/Apr/11 with gareth

aged_ape - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/11

cas54321 - 2nd - 17/Apr/11 with Tim

Very enjoyable, been on my tick list for at least a year so nice to get up it. 1st pitch a bit rubbishy, 2nd, 3rd and 4th very nice. BEWARE there is a very loose 'brick' above the first belay, obviously used to be a nut placement but has now detached. There is also evidence of freshish rock fall from just before the second belay with more to come. It is perfectly climbable but keep your eyes open.
Bobling - AltLd - 26/Mar/11 with Rich W

pattisonr - Lead - 25/Mar/11 with Steve Ryan

SteveRyan - 2nd O/S - 25/Mar/11 with Rob Pattison

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Mar/11

took 1st and 3rd pitch. 1st more of a scramble but great 'getting back on rock' climb.
darren hudson - AltLd O/S - 19/Mar/11 with David Ford

Steven Foley - 17/Mar/11

ian d f - AltLd O/S - 16/Mar/11 with Jenni S

Run_Ross_Run - AltLd - 11/Mar/11 with Steve

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Mar/11

Hidden - Mar/11

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Dave Toseland - AltLd - 2011

top pitch to retrieve ab rope
The Pylon King - Lead - 16/Oct/10 with bpmclimb

Rowan Mitchell - AltLd O/S - 09/Oct/10

chrispymocha - 2nd β - 27/Sep/10

Andy Kuszyk - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/10 with gavin critchley

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/10

Led 1st and 4th pitches, Gabs did 2nd and 3rd together as 1 pitch.
Becky C - AltLd O/S - 14/Aug/10 with Gabbro

Nature_Boy12689 - AltLd - 14/Aug/10

aged_ape - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/10 with Alex B

Tarryn - 2nd O/S - Aug/10 with Dave West

Nice route once above the loose stuff on the first pitch and a half - andy led p1&2 run together, me p3, steph p4. Another stunning evening at Wintours with great views of the peregrines.
PabloV - AltLd O/S - 29/Jul/10 with andy birkett, stephane

Andrewbirkett - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/10 with Stephane

ranga - 2nd O/S - 28/Jul/10

Climbed with Nayantara Santhi. I lead first three pitches, climbed pitch 2 and 3 as one. It was drizzling rain whole day. The crux of pitch 2 and the slab below great ledge were hard severely wet (with other adjectives coming to mind too). I could do the slab only because of good belay from the peg, but it was not fun at all.
andrzej kierzek - AltLd O/S - 18/Jul/10 with Tara

seconded 1 three pitches and lead the 4th pitch with andrzej. It was a gray drizzly day. But a fun climb.
tarasanthi - 18/Jul/10 with Andrzej Kierzek

Jez - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead - 20/Jun/10

forth pitch only. sweet...climb off great ledge through the v in the rock. Then love the small chimney climb out.
Jonathan Storey - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/10 with Gordon

Chris Sansum - Lead rpt - 06/Jun/10 with Toni Luke

stuart34 - 2nd - 03/Jun/10 with Stuart Buchan

Hidden - Lead - 03/Jun/10

will randall - AltLd O/S - Jun/10 with sarah

mikeydee135 - Lead O/S - 25/May/10

led 2nd and 4th pitch. cloudless day, first HS, good moves on top 3 pitchs
wilf - AltLd O/S - 22/May/10 with nick f

Hidden - 2nd - 16/May/10

martinp - Lead - 14/May/10 with Ali S

pitches 1,2,3 led pitch 2
stuart34 - AltLd O/S - 13/May/10 with Jack Turner

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/May/10

1&3
chubbyclimber - AltLd - 11/May/10 with Karl Carter

Led 2nd and 4th Pitch, good fun moves on crack of 2nd pitch, felt a little exposed. P4 just really good fun.
Albino - AltLd O/S - 11/May/10 with Tim Simpkins

Hidden - AltLd - 24/Apr/10

I think we belayed in the wrong places. Top pitch is tough if you're a shortie!
Babika - AltLd - 18/Apr/10 with Roman Jikov, Kiwi Pete

RossT - AltLd - 09/Apr/10 with Pete Cook

Slick - AltLd - Apr/10 with Isabel Evans

Lead pitch 2 and nearly all of 3 before being rained off and abbing off from the great ledge.
Tom87 - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/10 with Dave

Lead 2nd Pitch. Decided to finish on pitch 3 of Neibleheim in the dark.
tobyb - AltLd O/S - 16/Mar/10

Phil PBC - 2010

jimmatthews - Lead - 2010

First pitch only, just to get to the ledge. We then got rained off before we could climb anything :(
bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 13/Dec/09 with Clare

Rob84 - AltLd O/S - 12/Dec/09 with Ed & Rich

simon kimber - 2nd - 26/Oct/09 with Hannah Hunt

Hanski - Lead O/S - 26/Oct/09 with Simon Kimber

martyp - 2nd - 25/Oct/09

finished at the great ledge, brilliant climb cant fault it. bit of crack, bit of slab....fun!!
stvredmond - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/09 with Cirrus

lead all 4 pitches
peaches69 - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/09 with sarah

Last pitch only - Nice finish, easy but interesting pitch.
PaulWatson - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/09 with Ben

I lead all pitches. I ran the first pitch out up the juggy wall and we climbed it in 3 pitches.
jimbomann - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/09 with Tom Relf

Mattzx6r - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/09 with Sonia

sonic46 - 2nd - 30/Aug/09 with Matt Page

edmitchell - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/09 with Andrew Moncrief

Caspar - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/09 with John Willson

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Jul/09

Very Wet
James_86 - 2nd O/S - 19/Jul/09 with Circus

Circus - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/09 with James Davy

Adam T - 2nd O/S - 18/Jul/09 with Tony Penning ,Ali Taylor

simon kimber - Solo - 02/Jul/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/Jun/09

Climbed to the sound of a French horn emanating from somewhere down in the valley. First ever trad route. Thought we were climbing the Central Rib on the South Bay. Later realised we were on the North Wall.
Big Lee - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/09 with Mike Lelliot

MikeLell - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/09 with Lee Harrison

BB1 - Jun/09

ecromwell - AltLd - Jun/09 with Alison Cromwell

ElvisLeg - AltLd - 09/May/09 with Charlie Burbridge

reverse solo
simon kimber - Solo - 09/May/09

Twisty - Lead O/S - May/09 with Nigel Stock & Matthew Burnford

Jessie Rushbrooke - 2nd - Apr/09 with WB

Lead all pitches
AdamP - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/09 with Martin

martinp - 2nd - 22/Mar/09 with Adam

SC - 21/Mar/09 with mike kann

led 2 & 4, and then 1 to recover Dans No 1 nut that I left in then 1 down! Good route, with challenging moves on pitches 2,3 & 4
PaulWatson - AltLd O/S - 03/Oct/08 with Dan

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Sep/08

Slick - AltLd - 21/Sep/08 with Isabel Evans

Ing - AltLd - 14/Sep/08 with Hal

Climbed as a roped solo using Silent Partner. Didn't manage to get any other routes done as couldn't get motivated in the morning, and didn't arrive until 2.30pm! Still, an enjoyable afternoon, and worth the trip. Shiny new ascenders made the ascending part a lot less time consuming and soul destroying! A good fun climb on solid rock, with good gear all the way. Thought it was easy for HS - felt more like severe (although I've been climbing harder recently, so maybe I'm just getting stronger!).
Chris Sansum - Solo O/S - 22/Jun/08

Quite polished on crux of first pitch
poey50 - Lead - Jun/08 with Rowan15

Last pitch only
localboy - 2nd β - 20/May/08 with Simon C

Hidden - 2nd - 17/May/08

Jason Gotel - AltLd - May/08 with Badger

first time climbing by tikka, great fun
Mark Walter - AltLd O/S - 16/Apr/08 with Steve Becwith

mike278 - AltLd O/S - 05/Apr/08 with Ted

The Pylon King - AltLd O/S - 26/Jan/08 with Cider nut

al99 - Lead O/S - 2008

Heidi - 2nd rpt - 11/Nov/07 with Dave Little

Lead first and third pitches
leigh - AltLd - 07/Oct/07 with Ed

3rd pitch, Nibelheim finish on the slab
brady - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/07 with Roger Lindsay and Micky

Lead first three pitches (inc the 4b) and then abbed off.
localboy - Lead β - 26/Jun/07 with Jane H

Karlos - 2nd - 15/Apr/07 with Sandra

David Qualtrough - Apr/07

Pitches 1 and 2
cas54321 - 2nd O/S - 2007 with Mike

Use the little foot hold to summount the overhang on the top of the 3rd pitch (just to the right of the fixed peg and 2' below the lip.
Strange little creature - 2007 with Scott Cramp

pattisonr - Lead - 01/Aug/06 with Matt

Andrew1 - AltLd - 16/Jul/06 with Ian Healey

A reintroduction to limestone. Snatched after a thunderstorm, thought it would be wet but been so hot that the rock had dried out. Didn't get back ot the car until 10pm. Led pitches 2 and 4, should have taken 3 as well. A bit bush whacky on the 4a pitches but loively steep slab on the 4b pitch
snowcat - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/06 with David Gale

I lead pitches 1 and 2 together, Simon lead the new 4b third pitch, and I lead the final pitch.
localboy - AltLd O/S - 15/Jun/06 with Simon C

Simon Palmer - Lead O/S - Jun/06 with RMC

_mike2005 - AltLd rpt - May/06 with Marc Salter

GrandmaOfShoes - 2nd O/S - 17/Apr/06 with Mike Herbert

gareth r - AltLd dog - Apr/06 with Hilary

Neil Tucker - 2nd - Apr/06 with Chris Covell, Andy Manthorpe

mike kann - 2006

Efficient ascent, no time wasted
tcn_2002 - AltLd - 2006 with Hamish Legge

hlegge - AltLd - 2006 with Thomas Codrington

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/05

Stefan - AltLd O/S - May/05 with Don

Hidden - Lead - 19/Sep/04

mikeyjbs - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/04 with hans allnut, simon ball, farrow

Zoomer - Lead - 26/May/04 with Huw Richards

Darrell Read - AltLd - 19/May/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2004

timharrison - AltLd O/S - Aug/03 with Abi Marchent

furry - AltLd O/S - 23/Mar/03 with Phil B

markysums - Lead - 2003

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/02 with Roy Thomas

MartinN - AltLd O/S - Oct/01

Hidden - 2000

alan moore - 2000

We did the first pitch of Nibelheim (but not the semi-circular exit pitch).
jim_randell - AltLd rpt - 13/Jun/99 with DG

kitkat78 - Lead - Sep/98 with Mike K

We climbed the first pitch of Nibelheim and the semi-circular exit chimney.
jim_randell - AltLd rpt - 16/May/98 with MB

simon kimber - AltLd - 1996

Top pitch.
jim_randell - 2nd rpt - 19/Jun/94 with MB

3 Names - Lead - 1994

JamieAyres - AltLd O/S - Jul/86 with Jude Ayres

Tim Sparrow - AltLd - 1980 with Richard Brooke

Hidden - Nov/72

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
DomWatson, suffolknick, Hidden, Hidden, Jonathan Storey, DreadyCraig, Richard Morgan, Hidden, Sredni Vashtar

Voting
Total votes cast 80
hard VS0 of 26
VS0 of 26
easy VS0 of 26
hard HS0 of 26
HS24 of 26
easy HS0 of 26
hard S1 of 26
S1 of 26
easy S0 of 26
hard 4c0 of 26
4c0 of 26
easy 4c0 of 26
hard 4b1 of 26
4b20 of 26
easy 4b3 of 26
hard 4a1 of 26
4a1 of 26
easy 4a0 of 26
3 Stars0 of 28
2 Stars5 of 28
1 Star23 of 28
0 Stars0 of 28
Bag of .....0 of 28
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Style of ascent

Soloed4 of 250 (1.6%)
Lead59 of 250 (23.6%)
Followed52 of 250 (20.8%)
Alt Leads113 of 250 (45.2%)
Unknown22 of 250 (8.8%)

'Climbed'97 of 250 (38.8%)
clean O/S124 of 250 (49.6%)
clean β9 of 250 (3.6%)
clean rpt18 of 250 (7.2%)
dogged1 of 250 (0.4%)
dnf1 of 250 (0.4%)