Notung*** E1 5a/5b
[The somewhat specialised gear I placed on Notung, 3 kb]The North Wall

Ticklists: Ultimate E1 ticklist.

Photo: The somewhat specialised gear I placed on Notung © Kafoozalem

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 215 logbooks, and on 25 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/14

Nice but I preferred 'Andromeda' earlier on in the day.
Chris Sansum - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/14 with Aidan Carlisle

Retro flash?
brew_guru - Lead rpt - 04/Aug/14 with Miriam

thomb - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/14 with Matt

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Jul/14

chrisclimber - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/14

3 Names - 2nd - 15/Jul/14 with Chris Moyle

zcsharp - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/14 with Ross Davidson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/14

Fred_Richard - Lead - 09/Jul/14 with AngelaC

AngelaC - 2nd - 09/Jul/14 with Fred

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 09/Jul/14 with Clare

rhys.nadin - 2nd O/S - Jul/14 with Richard Nadin and Rob Scheichl

Jamie Skelton - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/14 with Nicky Brierley

08nbrierley - 2nd O/S - 21/Jun/14 with jamie

LJC - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/14 with ben.richards

ben.richards - 2nd O/S - 15/Jun/14 with Luca Celano

not sure it's worth 3 stars but an enjoyable route. Grade depends on how much you trust the pegs at the start!
alastairbegley - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/14 with Richard Nicholson

Slick - 2nd - 08/Jun/14 with Alastair Begley

Robin Nichols - 2nd O/S - 08/Jun/14 with Roger

Roget - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/14 with robin

tskelhon - Lead O/S - 18/May/14 with Charlotte

Hidden - Lead - 15/Apr/14

AngelaC - 2nd - 15/Apr/14 with Jeremy

felixizzy - 2nd O/S - 13/Apr/14

Great climbing on bomber Wintor rock, even more run out than The Tap. Need small wires & cams
chalkiesurf - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/14 with Giles Cranston

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 09/Mar/14

jcw - 2014

Hidden - 2014

Ian JL - Lead O/S - 30/Nov/13

Jon Didymus - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/13 with danp

Stone Muppet - 2nd rpt - 29/Sep/13 with Paz

fishinwater - 2nd - 29/Sep/13 with Chris W

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Sep/13

mossrug - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/13

jsmcfarland - 2nd O/S - Sep/13

MJAS82 - 2nd O/S - 28/Aug/13

Duncan Turner - Lead - 28/Aug/13

Protections in the lower part were not the most inspiring, thought probably OK. Route finding was a bit problematic.
masa-alpin - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/13 with Dave W-J, Adele L

2nd the 1st pitch
saraguti - 2nd - 10/Aug/13 with Al

OK route but not sure worth 3 stars, some nice bold/delicate parts.
JHC - AltLd O/S - 03/Aug/13

Led P1 of Nibelheim, and then the second half of Notung after James ran out of gear. Route finding was tricky, and it didn't really feel interesting enough to warrant the stars.
cameron_hall - AltLd O/S - 03/Aug/13 with James Cowley

jacobjlloyd - Lead rpt - 30/Jun/13

Great lead by Chris, who managed to pass the crux mid hight not seeing (at least he spent quite a while not using it) the crystalised pocket. It was hard, I did fall a couple of times.
natalio - 2nd dog - 09/Jun/13 with Chris B

My first lead of the day after following Al up Psychotic for the first. I clipped any peg that felt on route. I really enjoyed the route with some spicy run out. I agree with other's thoughts about feeling 5a all the way through but there was just one moment that stalled me.
puppythedog - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/13 with Al

leeoftroy - 2nd O/S - Jun/13

richardr - Lead O/S - 31/May/13 with Chris Wyatt

Marder20 - 2nd - 31/May/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/May/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/May/13

mes32 - Lead O/S - 26/May/13 with Wilki

alexjz - 2nd O/S - 28/Apr/13 with Jon Ayrton

kelliroberts3 - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/13 with Peter Rigby

i didn't really think it was soft for e1 and this talk of micro wires is fairly misleading as there was just two placements on the whole route.brilliantly sustained the whole way with a very serious start(if your belayer uses the bolt belay back and left of the start of the route and you walk round the back of the tress it will prevent a factor two fall)and a well runout but easy finish.quality!!
misterb - Lead O/S - 31/Mar/13 with wain

jcook1980 - Lead - 05/Mar/13 with Dan Moore

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Feb/13

Aaron Lines - Lead O/S - 06/Jan/13 with frank ramsay

ianto - 2013

1 move of 'French Free' pulling on a quickdraw I'd just clipped to a peg. I felt dirty.
MikeLell - Lead rpt - 01/Dec/12 with Dave

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 15/Sep/12

bpmclimb - 2nd rpt - 07/Sep/12 with Helen S

fairly straight forward climbing, but the top in particularly is v run out
hms - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/12 with Brian

rd20 - 2nd O/S - 02/Sep/12 with David P

Steady and intimidating to start. Not HVS up and between the 1st pegs.
dprctr - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/12 with Robert Dufton

Superb. Small wires required.
Stuart Johnston - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/12 with Luke Williams

adam 24 - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/12

adam 24 - Lead O/S - Sep/12

Hidden - Lead - 31/Aug/12

Kirill - 2nd O/S - 09/Jun/12 with Elise Belle, Charles Moreton

cem - Lead rpt - 09/Jun/12 with Elise Belle, Kirill Spiridonov

Very hot!! my feet were melting...
Scotsken - Lead O/S - 26/May/12 with Matt Ray

Hidden - Lead - 13/May/12

riddle - Lead O/S - 12/May/12 with Jakub LMC

orbittman - 15/Apr/12

Justin T - 2nd - 18/Mar/12 with Cherry

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Mar/12

Phil PBC - AltLd O/S - 17/Mar/12 with Eleri

al99 - Lead rpt - 01/Mar/12 with Mark Johnson

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 15/Jan/12

stuart34 - Lead O/S - 15/Jan/12 with tim ashlin

timtimpeggy - 2012

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 16/Oct/11 with Clare

Enjoyable sustained 5a climbing. Nothing really cruxy, nothing really easy. Really enjoyed it.
andy dunn - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/11 with Big Ben, J

iforwms - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/11 with Herman

GarethHall - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/11 with Gary Wong

garywong - 2nd O/S - 30/Jul/11 with Gareth Hall

Phil PBC - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/11 with burns

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/Jul/11

Nice and long pitch,great solid rock, not too hard for the grade i found, but bold between pegs.
Fred_Richard - Lead - 14/Jul/11 with Caz

fantastic climb/position - but it is low in the grade and no 5b moves...
evhall - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/11 with Fletch

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/11

timharrison - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/11 with Matt Carwardine

mattc - 2nd - 30/Jun/11

Simon F lead
localboy - 2nd rpt - 21/Jun/11 with Simon C, Simon F

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/11

More like HVS 5a. Not interesting enough for 3 stars. Maybe it deserves 1 star.
Chris Sansum - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/11 with Gary Lewin

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/11

Malcolm Tucker's Sweary Aunt - 2nd dog - 15/Jun/11

scary and bold. Not great natural pro, but plenty of pegs. Amazing route!
gb05 - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/11 with Joseph Fennell

via first pitch of Nibelheim (Lead)
joe_lancs - 2nd - 21/Apr/11

Probably HVS if you clip the pegs in reach (well, about 1 move away) on the routes to the left and right. Nice climbing though not all that independent. Final cemented peg is really loose though there is other gear in the vicinity.
Stone Muppet - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/11 with chris carroll

2nd pitch
Jones_d - TR dog - 09/Apr/11 with Richard Taylor, Tony Penning

jimmatthews - Lead - 02/Apr/11 with Nat P

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/11

dts - 2nd O/S - 27/Mar/11

Rob84 - 2nd rpt - 26/Mar/11 with Tim Ashlin

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/11

great route that just encourages you to climb***
brew_guru - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/11 with super gav

Tim Sparrow - Lead - 19/Mar/11 with Andrew Abraham

nickwhimster - 2nd - 19/Mar/11 with Tim, Andrew Abraham

Goo lead Tim, quality route
Andrew Abraham - 2nd β - 19/Mar/11 with Nick Whimster, Tim Sparrow

Had a wee "watch me here". good route
montgomery81 - AltLd rpt - 2011

Hidden - 2011

fletch73 - 2011

For photos.
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 16/Oct/10 with Mark, Clare

Forgot how great this route is.
The Pylon King - 2nd rpt - 16/Oct/10 with bpmclimb

Sam W - Lead - 30/Aug/10 with Dave Frost

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/10

thomasadixon - 2nd rpt - 08/Aug/10 with Becca

Best route I've led in ages! Delicate and bold.
BeccaSnowden - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/10 with Tom

will_benfold - 2nd O/S - 27/Jun/10 with Mary, Emmanuel

danJBA - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/10 with jamie hawton

jhawton - 2nd - 22/Jun/10 with danJBA

There's a run out section (just one or two poor micros). If there was just one more peg hereabouts the whole route would be a more logical HVS 5a - I didn't think there were any 5b moves, just sustained 5a climbing.
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 19/Jun/10 with Clare

Paul Bowen - 2nd - 19/Jun/10 with Rebecca Hayes, John James

knackered: did all the moves but couldn't muster the energy to haul myself up it without loads of rests...
katherinesydney - 2nd dog - 19/Jun/10 with gary burgess

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/10

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/10

nice to be back on the classic E1 lead at wintours
Phil PBC - Lead rpt - 22/May/10

too pumped after swansong prelude
muttley_109 - 2nd dnf - 15/May/10 with Ollie Burrows, Gary Lewis

Ollie B - Lead O/S - 15/May/10 with G.Lewis

brew_guru - 2nd O/S - 07/May/10 with super gav

Fun climbing, bit runout a times and with small gear. E1 mostly because of lack of pro.
Alexandre Buisse - 2nd O/S - 24/Apr/10 with Max

koalapie - Lead O/S - Apr/10

Herron - 2nd O/S - 10/Mar/10 with Pete Riley

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 07/Mar/10 with Harry Martin

Brilliant and sustained.Not lethally bold, but there are parts where the wires are small and spaced, thats enough to sharpen your mind in such an exposed situation.fantastic.bloody nice weather.
Trefo - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/09 with chris james

jacobjlloyd - 2nd β - 16/Aug/09 with Dougie

Brilliant first E1, though begining was more like a sport route...
dswansonlow - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/09 with jacob loyd

Dan_Carroll - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/09 with Rebecca Holland

A serious lead! The gear is small and sparse and a full rack of microwires is essential to avoid cerebral meltdown. The climbing is excellent but because of the protection requires your full attention.
mike kann - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/09 with Matt Bengy

Soft for E1, more like solid HVS - there's jugs and gear all over it if you have small wires and the in-situ pegs seem pretty bomber. Absolutely cracking route though.
Rob84 - Lead O/S - 26/May/09 with Chris James

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/May/09

Easy for the grade
tcn_2002 - Lead - 05/May/09 with Hamish Legge

hlegge - 2nd - 05/May/09 with Thomas Codrington

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/09

Hanski - 2nd - 20/Mar/09 with Simon Kimber

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 06/Mar/09 with jacquie robinson, helen gibson

I told him to take my little wires, but oh no. Then I wouldn't have spent the freezing hours at the belay wondering which way to jump as he smashed in to the ledge. Cool headed lead though.
mikehenesy - 2nd O/S - Jan/09 with Percy

the pegs don't give good confidence thought good solid E1 5b
Dale - Lead β - Sep/08 with johny

Managed to sink three RPs so never felt that run-out. Good route but deserving of 3 stars? Hmm ..
poey50 - Lead β - 08/Aug/08 with Rowan15

Rowan15 - 2nd - 08/Aug/08 with DP

bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/08 with Clare

gdb4060 - Lead - 13/Jul/08 with Rick Sewards

MikeLell - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/08 with Ian Bryant

Mark Walter - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/08 with Sarah Joyce

localboy - 2nd O/S - 20/May/08 with Simon C, Simon F

Great route and plenty of gear if you've got RPs. Never really difficult (although I wish I'd been tall enough to clip the first peg!).
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 18/May/08 with Toby Kluth

Hidden - Lead β - Apr/08

Led after Andy. Good route, mildly insecure and uncertain but not as underprotected as the guide suggested.
Owen W-G - Lead β - 02/Mar/08 with Andy G

First E1 and first route of the year!
Abi Chard - Lead O/S - 02/Mar/08 with Ian

ian caton - 2nd O/S - Mar/08 with Abi

This is a nice route, but about 6m above the belay ledge there is a hollow sounding block, which has a crack running right around it. This block forms a hold which I was unable to avoid using. There is no gear between you and the belay at this point, and the fall potential is bad. Don't necessarily be put off the route, as it's very good, but one day I think that block might well come loose.
Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 09/Feb/08 with Joe & Caroline

CarolineH - 2nd O/S - 09/Feb/08 with Dave and Joe

fatfingerz - 2008

Dr Caterpillar - 2nd O/S - 15/Sep/07 with Adam

simonf - Lead O/S - 2007

Circus - Lead β - 16/Sep/06 with Brad Tonks

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/06

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/Jul/06

Hidden - Lead RP - 30/Jun/06

Dave Reeve - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/06 with Tony Payne

Hidden - 2nd - Jun/06

The Pylon King - Lead rpt - 07/May/06 with Borris

Bern - 2006

markfromstoke - 2006

tom.e - Lead O/S - Oct/05

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/05

al99 - 2nd O/S - 30/May/05 with Rupert Rosedale

Little Gear
joe_alexander - 2nd β - Apr/05 with Nick Gillette

Not half as scary as it sounds, easy climbing, runout, but gear where it really matters.
drysori - Lead O/S - Jun/04 with BrianS

Billg - Lead O/S - May/04 with Susanne Richards

chris wyatt - Lead - 26/Mar/04 with barrie doyle

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2004

a_radiohead_fan - 2004

The Pylon King - Lead O/S - Nov/03 with David Elder

Tim Steward - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/03 with Torran Elson

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Jun/03

Mark Collins - Lead β - 14/Jun/03 with Neil Henson

Fantastic climb.
Neil Henson - 2nd - 14/Jun/03 with Mark Collins

AlexRenshaw - Lead - 17/May/03 with Ted Lister

furry - Lead O/S - 23/Mar/03 with Phil B

markysums - Lead - 2003

cem - 2nd - 13/Apr/02 with Graham Dolman

simon kimber - Lead O/S - 2002

Laramadness - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/01

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

alan moore - 2000

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/99

mikej - 2nd - 03/Jul/99 with Steve Young

Hidden - Lead β - 22/May/99

Hidden - Lead - 1999

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Jul/98

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/May/94

sdht - 1994

Hidden - AltLd - 1994

mikej - 2nd - 26/May/92 with Nick Salmon

Marti999 - AltLd - 1990

ChrisJD - Lead - 17/Jun/89

AlexRenshaw - Lead - 14/Jan/88 with Darrel Crilley, Doré Green

Nigel Coe - 2nd - 1988 with Gordon Jenkin

I led pitch 3 and Phil led pitch 4 as a finish to Great North Wall Route (Symplex and The Tap). At the time these 2 pitches were known as Bullfrog Blues I believe - pitch 3 was given 5a.
JamieAyres - AltLd O/S - Aug/85 with Phil Windall

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
andycash, hutchay, TB30, reffle, J.Atkins, Matt250, 3 Names, orbittman, Albie, mloskot, iceaxejuggler, Jonathan Storey, alexanderjwatts, Simon Fyfe, Caspar, Eccentric, SamStokes, givemetea, tincann

Voting
Total votes cast 110
hard E20 of 57
E20 of 57
easy E20 of 57
hard E14 of 57
E132 of 57
easy E120 of 57
hard HVS1 of 57
HVS0 of 57
easy HVS0 of 57
3 Stars30 of 53
2 Stars19 of 53
1 Star3 of 53
0 Stars1 of 53
Bag of .....0 of 53
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Style of ascent

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dogged
dnf