The North Wall

Ticklists: Ultimate E1 ticklist.

Cheese Monkey 08/Oct Lead O/S

Didnt find this bold in the slightest? Great climbing though

with Ric E
steve_gibbs 19/Sep Lead rpt
with Liam Jones
thom_jenkinson 19/Sep 2nd

Good route - nice steady climbing and plenty of opportunities to rest if you take them. Easy E1 I would say.

Eagertom 19/Sep Lead O/S

A great E1, reasonably sustained for the first half but not too full on. Would recommend it as a first E1 lead.

with Thom Jenkinson
adamarchie 12/Sep 2nd O/S

First E1 clean on second! Superb sustained route. Loads of the moves felt tenuous, but more - I think - because I don't have enough experience yet at this level to know what I can and can't reliably do. Bold lead, with poor microwires at the crux. At least 3 crux sections, really.

mes32 12/Sep Lead rpt

Moves are 5b if you're not tall. Gear is sub-optimal at the cruxes as well - I've certainly done many easier and safer E1s. Great route though!

with Adam
katherinesydney 05/Sep 2nd dog
with neil morbey
Alex Winter 01/Aug Lead O/S
with Pauline, Steve, and Tristan
adam 24 18/Jul Lead rpt

Re climbed this as i jibbered up it last time. Still felt bold and a climbed carefully, but felt a lot more relaxed and in control.

chrisallan 18/Jul 2nd O/S
danbirkby 17/Jul Lead O/S
with Gordon
kenneM 09/Jul 2nd O/S
with Caleb
Kemics 09/Jul Lead O/S

Found the route description really unhelpful. Hung around mid crux and had the description read out. Got there in the end. The hard climbing is protected only by rank pegs. The easy climbing has much better gear...but not going to be needed then

with Mike
Hidden 27/Jun Lead O/S
3 Names 12/Jun 2nd rpt
Hidden 12/Jun Lead O/S
thomas.veness 30/May 2nd O/S
LJKing 09/May 2nd rpt

Led Notung and Notung Forged in the past. Still a good climb.

with Paul Clarkson
CA1289 26/Apr AltLd O/S
with Jack
Chris Sieradzki 19/Apr Lead O/S

Not *** really. There are no 5b moves on it although many 5a, some of them harder but never desperate. Really spaced and not great protection. Only way is up.

with Hooo
Hooo 19/Apr 2nd O/S

Good interesting climbing all the way. Nice to second, as I could commit easily and there was hardly any gear to remove! Don't think I'd have enjoyed it on lead.

steve_gibbs 14/Apr AltLd O/S
with Max Coney
Legs 14/Apr Lead O/S

I have been wanting to lead this since it was recommended to me. I was wary about the spaced protection, but actually found more than I thought. Really good moves and really long enjoyable climb. Chuffed with the onsight.

with Steve
Rachel Slater 11/Apr Lead O/S
tim newton 11/Apr 2nd O/S
PaulTanton 07/Apr Lead O/S

My first route on this crag. I really enjoyed it. Thanks Ken. It was so hot. The guide gives more description than route....

jsmcfarland 04/Apr Lead β

Seconded previously 1 year ago but didn't remember anything about the route in particular. The route has fun moves on rock with excellent friction. The lack of gear makes it very bold in places, and routefinding requires care. The crux is very sustained, don't hesitate here! **** route. 5a/b seems accurate

with Uncle Kev
jon_gill1 21/Mar 2nd O/S
with chris Lyness
leigh 06/Mar Lead O/S

Gave did give me guidance on gear and route. This was probably one off best climbs I've done! An enjoyable 40m that was interesting and varied.

with Gav
youwillfindjimbo 04/Mar Lead O/S
DWebs 01/Feb 2nd dog
ian bryant ??/2015 Lead
pearson9596 ??/2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Chris Sansum 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Nice but I preferred 'Andromeda' earlier on in the day.

with Aidan Carlisle
brew_guru 04/Aug/14 Lead rpt

Retro flash?

with Miriam
thomb 20/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Matt
Hidden 20/Jul/14 2nd O/S
chrisclimber 15/Jul/14 Lead O/S
3 Names 15/Jul/14 2nd
with Chris Moyle
zcsharp 12/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Fred_Richard 09/Jul/14 Lead
with AngelaC
AngelaC 09/Jul/14 2nd
with Fred
bpmclimb 09/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with Clare
Hidden ?/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
08nbrierley 21/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with jamie
LJC 15/Jun/14 Lead O/S
ben.richards 15/Jun/14 2nd O/S
alastairbegley 08/Jun/14 Lead O/S

not sure it's worth 3 stars but an enjoyable route. Grade depends on how much you trust the pegs at the start!

Slick 08/Jun/14 2nd
Robin Nichols 08/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Roger
Roget 08/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with robin
tskelhon 18/May/14 Lead O/S
clmacdonald 18/May/14 2nd
Hidden 15/Apr/14 Lead
AngelaC 15/Apr/14 2nd
with Jeremy
felixizzy 13/Apr/14 2nd O/S
chalkiesurf 12/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Great climbing on bomber Wintor rock, even more run out than The Tap. Need small wires & cams

with Giles Cranston
Hidden 09/Mar/14 2nd rpt
jcw ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Ian JL 30/Nov/13 Lead O/S
Didymus 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with Dan
Stone Muppet 29/Sep/13 2nd rpt
with Paz
fishinwater 29/Sep/13 2nd
with Chris W
Hidden 08/Sep/13 2nd O/S
mossrug 01/Sep/13 2nd O/S
jsmcfarland ?/Sep/13 2nd O/S
MJAS82 28/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Duncan Turner 28/Aug/13 Lead
masa-alpin 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Protections in the lower part were not the most inspiring, thought probably OK. Route finding was a bit problematic.

with Dave W-J, Adele L
saraguti 10/Aug/13 2nd

2nd the 1st pitch

with Al
JHC 03/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

OK route but not sure worth 3 stars, some nice bold/delicate parts.

cameron_hall 03/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Led P1 of Nibelheim, and then the second half of Notung after James ran out of gear. Route finding was tricky, and it didn't really feel interesting enough to warrant the stars.

with James Cowley
jacobjlloyd 30/Jun/13 Lead rpt
natalio 09/Jun/13 2nd dog

Great lead by Chris, who managed to pass the crux mid hight not seeing (at least he spent quite a while not using it) the crystalised pocket. It was hard, I did fall a couple of times.

with Chris B
puppythedog 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S

My first lead of the day after following Al up Psychotic for the first. I clipped any peg that felt on route. I really enjoyed the route with some spicy run out. I agree with other's thoughts about feeling 5a all the way through but there was just one moment that stalled me.

with Al
leeoftroy ?/Jun/13 2nd O/S
richardr 31/May/13 Lead O/S
Marder20 31/May/13 2nd
Hidden 26/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/May/13 2nd O/S
mes32 26/May/13 Lead O/S
with Wilki
alexjz 28/Apr/13 2nd O/S
kelliroberts3 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S
misterb 31/Mar/13 Lead O/S

i didn't really think it was soft for e1 and this talk of micro wires is fairly misleading as there was just two placements on the whole route.brilliantly sustained the whole way with a very serious start(if your belayer uses the bolt belay back and left of the start of the route and you walk round the back of the tress it will prevent a factor two fall)and a well runout but easy finish.quality!!

with wain
jcook1980 05/Mar/13 Lead
with Dan Moore
Hidden 19/Feb/13 2nd
Aaron Lines 06/Jan/13 Lead O/S
ianto ??/2013 -
MikeLell 01/Dec/12 Lead rpt

1 move of 'French Free' pulling on a quickdraw I'd just clipped to a peg. I felt dirty.

with Dave
Hidden 15/Sep/12 2nd rpt
bpmclimb 07/Sep/12 2nd rpt
with Helen S
Hidden 07/Sep/12 Lead O/S
rd20 02/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with David P
dprctr 02/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Steady and intimidating to start. Not HVS up and between the 1st pegs.

Stuart Johnston 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Superb. Small wires required.

with Luke Williams
adam 24 ?/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/12 Lead
just one more 19/Jun/12 Lead
with john smith
Kirill 09/Jun/12 2nd O/S
with Elise Belle, Charles Moreton
cem 09/Jun/12 Lead rpt
with Elise Belle, Kirill Spiridonov
Scotsken 26/May/12 Lead O/S

Very hot!! my feet were melting...

Matt Ray 26/May/12 2nd
Hidden 13/May/12 Lead
riddle 12/May/12 Lead O/S
with Jakub LMC
orbittman 15/Apr/12 -
Justin T 18/Mar/12 2nd
with Cherry
Hidden 18/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Phil PBC 17/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
with Eleri
al99 01/Mar/12 Lead rpt
with Mark Johnson
Hidden 15/Jan/12 2nd rpt
stuart34 15/Jan/12 Lead O/S
timtimpeggy ??/2012 -
bpmclimb 16/Oct/11 Lead rpt
with Clare
andy dunn 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Enjoyable sustained 5a climbing. Nothing really cruxy, nothing really easy. Really enjoyed it.

with Big Ben, J
iforwms 31/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Herman
GarethHall 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S
garywong 30/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Phil PBC 28/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with burns
Hidden 24/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Fred_Richard 14/Jul/11 Lead

Nice and long pitch,great solid rock, not too hard for the grade i found, but bold between pegs.

with Caz
Hidden 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S
timharrison 30/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Matt Carwardine
mattc 30/Jun/11 2nd
localboy 21/Jun/11 2nd rpt

Simon F lead

Hidden 19/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Chris Sansum 19/Jun/11 Lead O/S

More like HVS 5a. Not interesting enough for 3 stars. Maybe it deserves 1 star.

with Gary Lewin
Hidden 19/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Yanis Nayu 15/Jun/11 2nd dog
gb05 21/Apr/11 Lead O/S

scary and bold. Not great natural pro, but plenty of pegs. Amazing route!

joe_lancs 21/Apr/11 2nd

via first pitch of Nibelheim (Lead)

Stone Muppet 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Probably HVS if you clip the pegs in reach (well, about 1 move away) on the routes to the left and right. Nice climbing though not all that independent. Final cemented peg is really loose though there is other gear in the vicinity.

Hidden 09/Apr/11 TR dog
jimmatthews 02/Apr/11 Lead
with Nat P
Hidden 27/Mar/11 Lead O/S
dts 27/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Rob84 26/Mar/11 2nd rpt
with Tim Ashlin
Hidden 25/Mar/11 Lead O/S
brew_guru 24/Mar/11 Lead O/S

great route that just encourages you to climb***

with super gav
Tim Sparrow 19/Mar/11 Lead
nickwhimster 19/Mar/11 2nd
with Tim, Andrew Abraham
Andrew Abraham 19/Mar/11 2nd β

Goo lead Tim, quality route

montgomery81 ??/2011 AltLd rpt

Had a wee "watch me here". good route

Hidden ??/2011 -
fletch73 ??/2011 -
bpmclimb 16/Oct/10 Lead rpt

For photos.

with Mark, Clare
Urgles 16/Oct/10 2nd rpt

Forgot how great this route is.

Sam W 30/Aug/10 Lead
Hidden 24/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/Aug/10 Lead O/S
thomasadixon 08/Aug/10 2nd rpt
with Becca
BeccaSnowden 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Best route I've led in ages! Delicate and bold.

with Tom
will_benfold 27/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Mary, Emmanuel
danJBA 22/Jun/10 Lead O/S
jhawton 22/Jun/10 2nd
with danJBA
bpmclimb 19/Jun/10 Lead rpt

There's a run out section (just one or two poor micros). If there was just one more peg hereabouts the whole route would be a more logical HVS 5a - I didn't think there were any 5b moves, just sustained 5a climbing.

with Clare
Paul Bowen 19/Jun/10 2nd
with Rebecca Hayes, John James
katherinesydney 19/Jun/10 2nd dog

knackered: did all the moves but couldn't muster the energy to haul myself up it without loads of rests...

with gary burgess
Hidden 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Jun/10 2nd
Hidden 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Phil PBC 22/May/10 Lead rpt

nice to be back on the classic E1 lead at wintours

muttley_109 15/May/10 2nd dnf

too pumped after swansong prelude

with Ollie Burrows, Gary Lewis
Ollie B 15/May/10 Lead O/S
with G.Lewis
brew_guru 07/May/10 2nd O/S
with super gav
Alexandre Buisse 24/Apr/10 2nd O/S

Fun climbing, bit runout a times and with small gear. E1 mostly because of lack of pro.

with Max
koalapie ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Herron 10/Mar/10 2nd O/S
with Pete Riley
tobydunford 07/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Harry Martin
Trefo 10/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Brilliant and sustained.Not lethally bold, but there are parts where the wires are small and spaced, thats enough to sharpen your mind in such an exposed situation.fantastic.bloody nice weather.

with chris james
jacobjlloyd 16/Aug/09 2nd β
with Dougie
dswansonlow 15/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Brilliant first E1, though begining was more like a sport route...

Dan_Carroll 02/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Rebecca Holland
beardy mike 20/Jun/09 Lead O/S

A serious lead! The gear is small and sparse and a full rack of microwires is essential to avoid cerebral meltdown. The climbing is excellent but because of the protection requires your full attention.

with Matt Bengy
Rob84 26/May/09 Lead O/S

Soft for E1, more like solid HVS - there's jugs and gear all over it if you have small wires and the in-situ pegs seem pretty bomber. Absolutely cracking route though.

with Chris James
Hidden 24/May/09 Lead O/S
tcn_2002 05/May/09 Lead

Easy for the grade

hlegge 05/May/09 2nd
Hidden 29/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Hanski 20/Mar/09 2nd
dan gibson 06/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with jacquie robinson, helen gibson
mikehenesy ?/Jan/09 2nd O/S

I told him to take my little wires, but oh no. Then I wouldn't have spent the freezing hours at the belay wondering which way to jump as he smashed in to the ledge. Cool headed lead though.

with Percy
Dale ?/Sep/08 Lead β

the pegs don't give good confidence thought good solid E1 5b

with johny
poey50 08/Aug/08 Lead β

Managed to sink three RPs so never felt that run-out. Good route but deserving of 3 stars? Hmm ..

with Rowan15
Rowan15 08/Aug/08 2nd
with DP
bpmclimb 27/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Clare
gdb4060 13/Jul/08 Lead
with Rick Sewards
MikeLell 19/Jun/08 2nd O/S
Mark Walter 11/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Sarah Joyce
localboy 20/May/08 2nd O/S
thomasadixon 18/May/08 Lead O/S

Great route and plenty of gear if you've got RPs. Never really difficult (although I wish I'd been tall enough to clip the first peg!).

Hidden ?/Apr/08 Lead β
Owen W-G 02/Mar/08 Lead β

Led after Andy. Good route, mildly insecure and uncertain but not as underprotected as the guide suggested.

with Andy G
Abi Chard 02/Mar/08 Lead O/S

First E1 and first route of the year!

with Ian
ian caton ?/Mar/08 2nd O/S
with Abi
Bristoldave 09/Feb/08 Lead O/S

This is a nice route, but about 6m above the belay ledge there is a hollow sounding block, which has a crack running right around it. This block forms a hold which I was unable to avoid using. There is no gear between you and the belay at this point, and the fall potential is bad. Don't necessarily be put off the route, as it's very good, but one day I think that block might well come loose.

with Joe & Caroline
CarolineH 09/Feb/08 2nd O/S
with Dave and Joe
fatfingerz ??/2008 -
Dr Caterpillar 15/Sep/07 2nd O/S
with Adam
simonf ??/2007 Lead O/S
Circus 16/Sep/06 Lead β
with Brad Tonks
Hidden ?/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/06 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/06 Lead RP
Dave Reeve 11/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Tony Payne
Hidden ?/Jun/06 2nd
Urgles 07/May/06 Lead rpt
with Borris
Bern ??/2006 -
markfromstoke ??/2006 -
tom.e ?/Oct/05 Lead O/S
pezzerrr 07/Jul/05 Lead O/S
al99 30/May/05 2nd O/S
with Rupert Rosedale
joe_alexander ?/Apr/05 2nd β

Little Gear

with Nick Gillette
drysori ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S

Not half as scary as it sounds, easy climbing, runout, but gear where it really matters.

with BrianS
Billg ?/May/04 Lead O/S
with Susanne Richards
chris wyatt 26/Mar/04 Lead
with barrie doyle
Hidden ??/2004 Lead O/S
a_radiohead_fan ??/2004 -
Urgles ?/Nov/03 Lead O/S
with David Elder
Tim Steward 07/Aug/03 Lead O/S
with Torran Elson
Hidden 29/Jun/03 2nd O/S
Mark Collins 14/Jun/03 Lead β
with Neil Henson
Neil Henson 14/Jun/03 2nd

Fantastic climb.

with Mark Collins
AlexRenshaw 17/May/03 Lead
with Ted Lister
furry 23/Mar/03 Lead O/S
with Phil B
markysums ??/2003 Lead
cem 13/Apr/02 2nd
simon kimber ??/2002 Lead O/S
Laramadness 24/Jul/01 Lead O/S
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jul/99 Lead O/S
mikej 03/Jul/99 2nd
with Steve Young
Hidden 22/May/99 Lead β
Hidden ??/1999 Lead
Hidden 19/Jul/98 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/May/94 AltLd O/S
sdht ??/1994 -
Hidden ??/1994 AltLd
alan moore ??/1994 -

Excellent 4 pitch route.

mikej 26/May/92 2nd
with Nick Salmon
FATBOYFAT ??/1991 Lead O/S
Marti999 ??/1990 AltLd
Hidden 17/Jun/89 Lead
AlexRenshaw 14/Jan/88 Lead
with Darrel Crilley, Doré Green
Nigel Coe ??/1988 2nd
JamieAyres ?/Aug/85 AltLd O/S

I led pitch 3 and Phil led pitch 4 as a finish to Great North Wall Route (Symplex and The Tap). At the time these 2 pitches were known as Bullfrog Blues I believe - pitch 3 was given 5a.

with Phil Windall
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Votes cast 72
Votes cast 67
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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