Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.
GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.
North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made.
All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.
Dates: 1 March to 15 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.
Peregrins nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pithes of left hand route (from the great ledge)
Rockfax Description
Well-travelled, with the second pitch being particularly good. Start about 10m up the slope right of the edge of the buttress at a corner that heads up through vegetation.
1) 4a, 21m. Follow the corner to a ledge and continue up the cleanest rock on a rib to the right to a ledge and tree belay.
2) 4c, 28m. Head up to a spike of rock (thread) in a small corner and then move carefully up and leftwards to a wall and thin crack (peg). Climb the wall above to a ledge (peg) and then on up to a small overhang (peg). Traverse right to a couple of corners that lead to the Great Ledge. Belay at the abseil station. © Rockfax
E Fivelsdal Nov/1973.
Wye's it a trad classic (up to HVS)? , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS) , Bristol Area Easy Trad Ticklist , Wintour's leap
User | Date | Notes | ||
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sky99 | 24 Aug, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Great Climb. P1 a bit dirty but with some nice climbing. P2 gives airy climbing in a great postion. All three Pegs are there and look good but there's not much else. Excellent abseil station right at the top of the route. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Great Climb. P1 a bit dirty but with some nice climbing. P2 gives airy climbing in a great postion. All three Pegs are there and look good but there's not much else. Excellent abseil station right at the top of the route. |
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whenry | 1 Jul, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: The first pitch is getting a touch overgrown in places. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The first pitch is getting a touch overgrown in places. |
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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Wintour's Leap)