UKC

Restricted Access

Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.

GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.

North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made. 

All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.

Peregrins nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pithes of left hand route (from the great ledge)

50m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Well-travelled, with the second pitch being particularly good. Start about 10m up the slope right of the edge of the buttress at a corner that heads up through vegetation.
1) 4a, 21m. Follow the corner to a ledge and continue up the cleanest rock on a rib to the right to a ledge and tree belay.
2) 4c, 28m. Head up to a spike of rock (thread) in a small corner and then move carefully up and leftwards to a wall and thin crack (peg). Climb the wall above to a ledge (peg) and then on up to a small overhang (peg). Traverse right to a couple of corners that lead to the Great Ledge. Belay at the abseil station. © Rockfax

E Fivelsdal Nov/1973.

Ticklists

Wye's it a trad classic (up to HVS)? , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS) , Bristol Area Easy Trad Ticklist , Wintour's leap

Feedback

User Date Notes
sky99 24 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Great Climb. P1 a bit dirty but with some nice climbing. P2 gives airy climbing in a great postion. All three Pegs are there and look good but there's not much else. Excellent abseil station right at the top of the route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great Climb. P1 a bit dirty but with some nice climbing. P2 gives airy climbing in a great postion. All three Pegs are there and look good but there's not much else. Excellent abseil station right at the top of the route.
whenry 1 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The first pitch is getting a touch overgrown in places.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The first pitch is getting a touch overgrown in places.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 100
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 99
Votes cast 95
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Freedom

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Wintour's Leap)

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